Stages 121-122: Co. Kerry/Co. Cork: September 2025

This was my last trip to Kerry and I finally reached the Co. Cork border (Ardgroom) in these couple of days. As the distances from my home in Bangor, Co. Down are getting longer, I’m going to take a break now until St. Patrick’s weekend 2026 – and then tackle the coast of Cork which I reckon could be 1,000 kilometres. I could probably do with a winter break as my GP has told me that my ‘bloods demonstrate an iron deficiency anaemia’. I felt something wasn’t quite right over the summer, so it was good I got it checked out. I’ve been taking iron tablets for the last couple of weeks and I’m eating even more broccoli, kale, spinach and eggs. I'm beginning to feel stronger already. 

Maureen, Brian and I are staying in lovely Airbnb on Main Street, Kenmare almost next door to the Tom Crean Brewery. That should also inspire me. I mentioned the great explorer when we stayed in Anascaul, near his pub, back in May (See Stage 112)  

 

      Stage 121 Co. Kerry: Sneem to Kenmare (really Kenmare to Sneem) Thursday 18 September 2025: 37.7km or 23.4miles

Some running on the 'Kerry Way' but trying to keep close to the coast

‘’I have found what I sought. Ireland has extended it to me in the most delicate, in the most friendly manner’’ Charles de Gaulle

I referred to Charles de Gaulle back in September 2022 (Stage 75) when he visited Connemara in 1969 just a month after resigning as French president. During this period de Gaulle also stayed in Sneem, probably because it was close to Derrynane, the O’Connell residence. The president had a connection with Derrynane as his grandmother wrote a book about Daniel O’Connell, ‘Le liberateur de l’Irlande’.  

The Kerry Way

Today is another one of my clockwise, sea on the left, runs, So I’m starting in Kenmare and finishing in Sneem. My plan is to get up early, sunrise is 7.20am and begin today’s run. However, it’s a miserable wet morning and I can hear the rain banging on the Velux windows. I delay leaving the Airbnb for a while. 

The rain eases off a little, so I head out the door, running along the N70 for the first 8km. I see a sign for Templenoe Pier but when I reach it there’s nothing really there, other than the wee harbour so I’m back up to the main road again. After another 800 metres I take another left turn to the shore. This time I do come to the ancient church and graveyard. Templenoe (Teampall Nuadh) means ‘The Parish of the New Church’. The name originated when a new chapel was built in the locality. The building is now in ruins and situated in the Old Templenoe Cemetery. It was constructed sometime between 1261 and 1656. So much for a new church!

The 'new' church at Templenoe

I saw this notice outside a house in Templenoe - fighting back against 'garbage dumpers'

I decide to stay by the shore. It’s low tide and that always helps. There are a group of islands here, or a an ‘archipelago’ of islands, one of my favourite words! They are the ‘Greenane Islands’ and the journalist Dan Maccarthy said they ‘seem to float like paper boats on the so-called Kenmare River’. It’s a strange name for a bay or lough. I think it’s so called because it was easier to get fishing rights by calling it ‘Kenmare River’. 

Catching oysters on the Kenmare River (really Kenmare Bay)

The rain finally stops as I continue trying to run along the rocky shore at Templenoe. I spot two men picking oysters and get chatting to them. The surface is getting soft and slippery as I slowly make my way along the coast until I finally reach Coss Strand. 

I took the scenic route to Coss Strand

I join a lane here and make my way back up to the N70. (I did try to stay by the shore by following the sign for Templenoe GAA Club but realise there’s no way through). I run along the main road for about 500 metres and see the sign for the ‘Kerry Way’ on my left.

Back on the 'Kerry Way' again

It's starting to rain again. However, on the Kerry Way in the middle of forest I feel quite protected. Despite the bad weather earlier, the surface is very pleasant to run on. 

This is as close as I got to Dromore Castle

Along the trail I pass a massive gate. I’m tempted to climb over and have a look as I presume it is ‘Dromore Castle’. In the distance, behind the gate, I can hear a dog barking as if he’s almost warning me to keep out. 

Running along the shore of the Blackwater River

I stay along the coast in the wooded area, still on the ‘Kerry Way’ and run all the way as far as ‘Lackeen Point’. Then the path follows the river Blackwater north. It’s such a lovely route along here, although I have to keep an eye out for tree trunks and muddy surfaces. Finally, I’m back on the N70. Once I cross Blackwater Bridge, I take a right turn and rejoin the Kerry Way. The rain is getting heavier now and this part of the trail is quite slippery. I get chatting to a Dutchman along here. He’s heading for Sneem too but unlike me he’s going to stay on the Kerry Way all the way to the village.

Blackwater Bridge

It’s still raining, and I’m reminded of the writer, Manchan Magan who wrote a book, ‘Ninety-nine Words for Rain’. He mentions all the Irish words, not just ‘baisteach’, which means wet or rain. ‘’A heavy shower is called ‘spairn’ but a sudden shower is a ‘buisteog’ or a ‘tuile shleibhe’ is an abrupt shower near a hillside’’. My favourite of his descriptions is ‘rilleadh baisti’ which is streaming rain, like oats through a riddle. And as I'm writing this blog I hear the very sad news that Manchan has died after a long illness.

So sad that Manchan Magan has died. Nice tribute from Irish President

Maybe not ninety-nine different types of rain today, but at least four or five variations of wet weather. Along the ‘Kerry Way’ I pass ‘Lough Fada’ on my left-hand side and so I leave the path and get down onto the N70 again. I have to backtrack a little on the main road, but I see the turn for ‘Rossmore Island’. 

Bridge at Rossmore Island

I’m keeping my tradition of trying to visit any islands that are accessible by a bridge or causeway. I cross the stone bridge to the island. I read that Michael Flatley was refused planning permission for a house he was trying to build here. He obviously had a love for the area as he sold a painting called ‘Rossmore Island’ in 2014 for £22,500.

I return to the mainland and to the N70. I only have to run on it for about 2km until reach Tahilla. The most famous person from this area is the Kerry footballer, John Egan. I always admired him as a skilful corner forward on the great Kerry team of the 1970’s and 80’s. 

John Egan, Kerry Footballer

There is now a bronze statue in memory of him in Sneem which I see later. I like the tribute that Mick O’Dwyer gave. ‘’There has never been a better inside forward. I can’t say he was the best, but I can say there was no-one better’’.

Interestingly John Egan had a son with the same name who is a very talented soccer player. In 2018 he signed for Sheffield United for £4m, a Club record at the time.   

 

At Tahilla, I follow the sign for ‘Rossdohan Island’ (Oilean Ros Dochan). I reach Rossdohan Pier but there is no access to the island itself. It says ‘Private – No Entry’ which is disappointing, but I’m not surprised as it is becoming more common with people having private estates in remote area. I had read that Rossdohan is an exotic looking island – joined by an arch stone bridge, with lots of woodland. The original owners, Samuel Heard and his wife Kate Bradley sourced trees from Africa and America. 

Rossdohan Pier

I could have done with some shelter in those exotic trees as the rain is getting heavier now. I make my way up to the N70 again. Despite my waterproof jacket the relentless rain is seeping through. I think this causes me to miss the sign for the ‘Kerry Way’ and so I stay on the busy main road that takes me all the way to Sneem.

The River Sneem in the village of Sneem

Sneem in Irish is ‘An tSnaidhm’ which means 'the knot', probably the way the village is separated into two squares each side of the bridge. My only ever memory of Sneem is years ago watching on TV a State Funeral for Irish President, Cearbhall O’Dalaigh who lived in the village in the last few years of his life.

Maureen & Brian meet me in Sneem

As I arrive in Sneem, I also see the statue of Steve (the Crusher) Casey who in 1938 was crowned Heavyweight Wrestling Champion of the World and retained the title for nine years until he retired, undefeated, in 1947. 

Steve Casey, Wrestling Champion of the World

Sneem has had so many inspirational people that have made their mark on the village and their statues will continue to remind locals and tourists of their achievements. In contrast, my entrance to the village on a wet Thursday afternoon paints a miserable picture. However, even if I am feeling exhausted and soaked to the skin, I also have a sense of great achievement today. The adventure continues.

Delighted to have completed today's stage

 

Stage 121: Revisited: Kenmare town: Sheen Falls & Reenagross loops: Sunday 21 Sept: 10km or 6.2miles:

I decided to run further up the Kenmare River

I didn’t run at all yesterday (Saturday) and Maureen, Brian and I enjoyed our day together in Kenmare. It’s one of the nicest towns or villages I’ve been to. Yesterday we drove to the Sheen Falls Hotel where there was a sculpture exhibition. We enjoyed a relaxing drink in the gardens of the hotel. That visit made it easier for me today and I knew exactly where I was going. I’m justifying running these loops as I can easily argue that the coast extends all the way up the Kenmare River towards Sheen.

 

Bridge at Sheen Falls

Today on a Sunday morning at 7.30 it’s quiet as I run along the R569 out of Kenmare. After about 2k at the L4405 I take a right turn and shortly cross the river at the Roughty Bridge. I pause at the second stone bridge beside the Sheen Falls Hotel. The bridge with its stone arches was built almost 250 years old.  

Early morning view from Sheen Falls Stone Bridge

I carry on along this road which brings me back into Kenmare where I cross the main bridge to get back to the village. Just after crossing the river, I take a right turn, signposted, Reenagross Park. The whole wooded park was planned by Lord Lansdowne in the early 1900’s. He called it ‘Heaven on Earth’ and wrote as follows. 

‘Reenagross enchanted isle, on thee bright nature seems to smile,

Thy velvet walks and cooling shade, shall never from my memory fade’

Following the coastal path at Reenagross

Reenagross is perfect for running too (would make a great parkrun for Kenmore). I was able to follow the shore and loop back through the trees before I arrived back in the village. 

The ancient Stone Circles in Kenmare

Maureen placing a wish on the Hawthorn Tree

Kenmare is such a thriving place and even at 8.30 on a Sunday morning I was able to get fresh coffee and home-made croissants. I recommend ‘Maison Gourmet’. I should mention too that during our time here we went to see the ‘Ancient Stone Circles’ and ‘Cromwell’s Bridge’. This bridge is not called after Oliver or Thomas Cromwell. The name is derived from ‘Croimeal’ which is the Irish word for moustache, as the bridge has a shape like a thick moustache. Yes, there is a lot to see and do in Kenmare (or Neidin as its also called) and we’ll be sad to leave it behind. 

Cromwells Bridge- shaped like a moustache

           

Stage 122: Kenmare, Co. Kerry to Ardgroom, Co. Cork: Friday 19 September 2025: 49.1km or 30.5miles

Running along the coast of the Beara Peninsula

 ‘’As I leave behind Neidin, it’s like purple splashed with green’’ Jimmy MacCarthy

It is very apt that I’m humming this beautiful tune as I leave Kenmare. The other traditional name for Kenmare is ‘Neidin’, which means ‘little nest’. The song was made famous by Mary Black. A more direct translation of the name Kenmare is ‘Ceann Mara’, meaning head of the sea.

I think I should give a mention to two ultra runners who came on this route recently. Both of them were running around Ireland every day with different adventures. Seanie Clifford has just finished running the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ – all 2,700km of it and he did it, running 30 days in a row. Amazing. The second runner was Vini Cardoso who was running around Ireland, visiting all the RNLI Lifeboat Stations. Vini had no support crew and carried his tent on his back for 2,600 kilometres! He just finished his epic journey last Saturday after running 40 days in a row. Vini stayed a night in my house, and I ran with him, along the coastal path (of course) from one RNLI station in Donaghadee to another in Bangor. 

Me and Vini in Bangor - Friday 8th August 

Our Lady's Bridge in Kenmare

So yes, as I leave behind Neidin/Kenmare I cross over ‘Our Lady’s Bridge’. This was originally a suspension bridge built in 1840. It was Ireland’s first one but was declared unsafe in 1933, so it was replaced by today’s bridge. 

I take a right turn, signposted Ardgroom but shortly I see a sign pointing into the woods by the shore. It’s the ‘Beara Way’. Even when I leave the forest, I’m able to continue on the historic trail by following a quieter road. On my left are the hills of Mhucshnamh (356 metres) and Killaha (400 metres), covered in mist this morning. 

Following the 'Beara Way' wooded section

It’s my only time on the ‘Beara Way’ today as that route seems to go much further inland after Killaha. I should mention that the Beara Way follows the historic ‘O’Sullivan Beare’ trail dating back to 1603. I’ll talk more about this as I get deeper into the Beara Peninsula.  

I cross the river (Abha Dhrom Ocha) and follow the flatter coastal road at Dawros. I can see more hills and mountains on my left, Derrysallagh (474metres) and further away, Cnoc na gCorrmhiolta (507 metres). I am so lucky today that I’m not following the Beara Way as I'd say it would be tough going after all that rain yesterday.   

Looking across to Dinish Island

On my right I spot Dinish Island which played an significant part in the Irish Civil War. In 1922 the island was taken by Anti-Treaty forces who then occupied Kenmare. The Civil War was a terrible period in Irish history and was more violent and brutal in Co. Kerry than anywhere else.   

Causeway to Ormond's Island

I continue on the coastal road and at Coornagillagh I run down to Ormond’s Island. I’ve heard it described as ‘a guitar-shaped island’ and I read that in 1863 a twenty-six-foot whale was spotted on the island. No sign of any creature today. I was hoping for a coffee at ‘Coorna Café’ but there’s nobody there at the booth. I suppose it’s only 9.15 on a Friday morning. It looks like I could have had a sauna too if I arrived later. 

Sauna by the coast

At least it is low tide so I can get across to ‘Ormond’s Island’. When I reach the island, there’s another ‘private’ type side here, so I return to the mainland and continue running. 

Another 'No Entry' sign to an island (Ormond's)

It’s starting to rain for the first time today. Soon I come to a sign for Tuosist or ‘Tuath O Siosta’ (territory of the O’Siosta). There is a Post Office and shop here. The only one I’ll pass on my 49km journey today, so I top up on some water. 

The only shop I passed today

After that I take the R573 which stays by coast - the main road, the R571 goes inland. On the OS map, this route is called ‘Lansdowne Road’ after the ‘Marquis of Lansdowne’ who had the idea of the Suspension Bridge in Kenmare. 

Following the Coastal Road (R573)

It’s so much quieter along here. I hardly meet any cars at all. I stop at the lovely Kilmakilloge Harbour and when I reach the pier at Bunaw the rain begins to ease off. 

Killmakilloge Harbour

Shortly after leaving Bunaw, I hear a car behind me. I look around and its Maureen and Brian. More drinks and jelly-babies for me. Maureen and Brian are on their way to visit the nearby ‘Derreen Gardens’, that covers an area of 60 acres.

Bunaw Pier

Visitor Attraction at Bunaw Harbour

I carry on to Lauragh. I was expecting a wee village with a Post Office and Shop where I could stop for a coffee - but there was nothing here. I cross the river which is called ’An Oinseach’ which to me, means silly or fool. I’ve often heard a person called an ‘Oinseach’ but never a river!

I continue running on the main road towards Ardgroom. I had no intention of diverting off this route until I saw a sign, saying ‘Doorus Loop’. 

I couldn't resist this loop - but in hindsight I should have

 

I returned to this spot three times - lost in the woods

And what runner can resist a loop? It was now 12.30pm and I’ve been on the go since 7.30 this morning. I shouldn’t have allowed myself to be tempted as I ended up getting lost in the woods. It was a maze of trails and turns and on three different occasions I came back to the same spot! I was so relieved to finally leave the forest and get back onto the R571. 

Green Island off Dawross Loop

The road along Collorus Peninsula

I’m struggling now but I have to keep going. I shortly come to a peninsula called Collorus. I knew I might not be able to circle it all but nevertheless I wanted to see how far I could get. As it happened, at the top of the peninsula there was a ‘No Entry – Private’ sign, so I just turned around and ran back to the main road again.

It's only another 2km before I came to a very important milestone at Glasananinnaun Bridge. An unattractive and unwelcoming looking sign says, ‘Welcome to Cork’. 

Another milestone - the coast of Kerry completed

So yes, I’ve now completed all of the Kerry coast. That was always the aim for 2025 and now I’ve achieved it! The Kerry/Cork border is really in the middle of nowhere, so I continue running for a few more miles until I finally reach the village of Ardgroom, Co. Cork. So delighted I’ve now reached the Rebel County. The adventure will continue next year, over St Patrick’s Weekend (March 2026).

Great to reach Ardgroom, Co. Cork

Stages 119-120: South Co. Kerry: August 2025

The distances I’m having to travel to get to my starting point are getting longer. It’s a 584 km (363 mile) trip to reach Caherdaniel, Co. Kerry from Bangor, Co. Down (where I live) and almost a seven-hour journey – and that’s just one way. In reality it was more than an eight-hour trip as we stopped twice along the way and roadworks slowed us down. Interestingly, this time Satnav is bringing us right into Cork City, crossing the river Lee at Blackrock and then heading west on the N40 for a couple of hours. I always like to refer to anniversaries and as we’re driving through West Cork, I spot the sign for ‘Beal na Blath’. I’m remembering that tomorrow 22 August will be 103 years since Michael Collins was shot and killed, tragically by some of his own comrades.

Stage 119 Co. Kerry: Ballinskelligs to Caherdaniel (really, Caherdaniel to Ballinskelligs): Friday 22 August 2025: 35.47km or 22.04miles

 ‘’Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong’’ Daniel O’Connell

Yes, we’re in Daniel O’Connell country and that comment by him is such a simple observation and is especially apt today. I can only imagine how horrified he would be with all that’s going on in the world and especially with, how things have developed in Israel and Palestine. It’s exactly 250 years ago this month since the great Emancipator was born and we’re staying close to his Derrynane home. Daniel O’Connell did not just fight for Irish Catholics but also spoke out against all persecutions including those in India; he stood up for the Maori people in New Zealand, Aborigines in Australia and Jews in Europe. However, his strongest opposition was against slavery, especially in the United States. He said, ‘’of all men living, an American citizen, who is the owner of slaves, is the most despicable’’. These strong views were not popular with some of the Irish American leaders and also lost him some of the young Fenian support.   

Me at the end of today's stage in Ballinskelligs

Maureen, Brian and I are staying at the ‘Old Post Office’ in Caherdaniel, which is now an Airbnb. I’m up early, about 6.30am and running clockwise for a change with the sea on my left. The plan for today is to finish at the Cill Rialaig Arts Centre in Ballinskelligs. The name Caherdaniel actually comes from an old fort, ‘Donal’s Ringfort’ and copper ore was mined here over 4,000 years ago. With the area now known for being the home of Daniel O’Connell, it could easily be conveniently translated as ‘Daniel’s Town or City’ as Cathair is Irish for city.

Derrynane Beach

It’s a warm morning as I follow the signs for Derrynane that leads me to the shore, passing the Blind Piper Pub, where we had a few tasty meals during the weekend. Arriving down on the coast, my first reaction was ‘what a beautiful and magical coastline’ with its green fields, white strands and all surrounded by the Kerry hills. Maureen, Brian and I did return to here on Sunday afternoon and it was even more impressive at low tide. Today I spot Abbey Island at the end of the beach and some of the cemetery headstones are clearly visible. I stay by the strand and then take a turn inland when I run out of beach. I’m following the ‘Kerry Way’ which is marked on the OS map, and it brings me down to Derrynane Pier. 

Nearly missed this small arrow pointing to the 'Kerry Way' 

View from the Kerry Way path, near Derrynane Pier

For a while I’m unsure of which way to go and begin to leave the harbour. Then I see an arrow pointing towards a path. It would have been so much easier if there had been a ‘Kerry Way’ sign here and not just a small pointer, which was difficult to spot. I follow this coastal trail that winds along the shore with spectacular views out to the twin islands of Scariff and Deenish. They seem to be covered in early morning mist and fog.

View from Kerry Way with islands of Scariff & Deenish in the distance

Everything is perfect so far on my run - but then it all goes horribly wrong and quite quickly too! The coastal trail seemed to lead me down through a wooded area to a tiny beach with no exit point. I decided to back track, but in hindsight should have looked for another marked path. I made a terrible decision here to climb up onto a hill where the terrain was uneven and rocky. At times like this I wish I had someone running with me. I struggled through boulders and uneven grass for almost an hour and eventually (that word again!) I rejoined the Kerry Way and made it onto a harbour called ‘Ce Bheal Tra’. Already I’m exhausted and I’m probably only about 3k from where I started a couple of hours ago.

At Bheal Tra Pier - I don't know why I'm smiling as I've made little progress today! 

I follow the Kerry Way north towards the N70, but I stay on a country road, heading west. I remain on this lower road which runs parallel and south of the Ring of Kerry. The OS map marks this area as ‘Com an tSleabheain’- not sure if that refers to some kind of pass over the mountain. When I come to the end of the road, there’s a rough pathway which looks promising. I do realise that I’m taking another risk here as I head further west towards the corner of ‘Hog’s Head’ (Ceann Muice). This area seems to be called Reenearagh. and I’m heading for ‘An Rinn Iarthach’ – the most westerly point. However, I wasn’t prepared for the steep hills and the long grass which made every step difficult. Even though I have a map, this was a very tricky section with no path of any kind. 

View from the hills at Reenearagh

My only saving grace is that it’s a warm and sunny day with absolutely no wind or breeze. It has been such a tough journey so far today and there’s still a long way to go. I do finally reach the road on the north side of the mountain that I know will bring me straight to Waterville. Along this route I pass Toor Beach ‘Tra Lobhair’, which translates as Leper beach. Maybe it was a beach where people who suffered from various ailments frequented.  

Finally reached Waterville or 'An Coirean'

At least it’s safer to run on this quieter and lower road. When I reach Waterville, I stop at the first café which happens to be ‘Peter’s Place’. I definitely deserved my coffee and scone as I sit by the shore. 

I definitely deserved my break at Waterville

I continue running and spot a mural and then a statue of the comic actor, Charlie Chaplin. It was Walt Disney who recommended the ‘Butlers Arms Hotel’ in Waterville to Chaplin (and the surrounding area for fly fishing). Disney stayed at the hotel in 1946 when researching for the film ‘Darby O’Gill and the Little People’. Not the best film Irish ever made – the name in itself is cringingly embarrassing. Anyway, Charlie Chaplin first came here in 1959 and every year after that, until 1970 so he was obviously a true convert to the beauties of South Kerry. 

Charlie Chaplin was a regular visitor to Waterville

There are quite a few people taking pictures of Charlie but there is another statue nearby of Mick O' Dwyer who died just four months ago. O’Dwyer was a Kerry footballer who was part of a double act with the local Valentia man, Mick O’Connell. O’Dwyer became even more famous as manager of the historic Kerry team that won eight All Ireland titles in the 1970’s and 1980’s. While there are a lot of people gathering around the Charlie Chaplin figure, there’s nobody at all at the Mick O’Dwyer statue. I ask someone to take a picture of me. The man and his family are from Germany, and I explain that O’Dwyer was like the ‘Franz Beckenbauer’ of Gaelic football. They are all immediately impressed and take their own pictures of the GAA man. I wasn’t sure if they would have been interested to know, that Kerry are the new All-Ireland champions having beaten Donegal a few weeks ago. 

Waterville's favourite footballer and manager

I run along the rocky strand for a while but then climb up onto the road and take the long way around to Ballinskelligs. Satnav says it’s another 13.3k to reach my finish line, probably longer for me as I’ll run as close to the coast as possible. It’s a pity I can’t stay on the shore on Inny strand and cross over the narrow river by the coastal route. It would be much shorter and the perfect run along two long beaches. Maybe this was an option, but I wasn’t willing to risk it, especially after all the trouble I had roughing it earlier this morning.

Maureen and Brian catch up with me in the car as I head towards Ballinskelligs. It’s still a beautiful warm day so I’m glad to get some water from them and to top up my own supply. I don’t like the traffic on the N70 (Ring of Kerry) but I’m able to leave that busy road after a while and take a left onto the R567. The sign still says 10km to Ballinskelligs – it’s been a long day! This road is quite narrow, but I soon take a left down towards the shore. The OS map calls this the ‘Emlagh Loop’. 

Ballinskelligs Bay

It’s stunning on the wide-open strand at Ballinskelligs Bay. The river Inny looks quite narrow here and I can see some golfers quite clearly across on the Waterville side. Again, I wondered if I could have taken the coastal route, rather than the road. Inny Strand or ‘Tra na hUine’ – seems to translate to ‘strand of the things’ It is definitely ‘sand for the feet of the runner’ but I’m afraid this runner is just walking now! I keep going and debate with myself if I could get onto the cliffs and reach ‘Tra na Sasanach’ (English strand) that way. I decide (wisely) to get back up onto the R567. 

I only have to stay on this road for about 700 metres and then take a left at a crossroads (with a bike sign) that brings me along a wee lane called ‘Lios Lir’ that leads me all the way to Ballinskelligs. Maureen and Brian meet me there and we spend the next hour on the beach, relaxing and resting our feet in the salty water.

Finally arriving in Ballinskelligs

Brian joins me at today's Finish Line

Maureen & Brian, my support team on Ballinskelligs Beach

Stage 120: Co. Kerry: Caherdaniel to Sneem: Saturday 23 August 2025: 25.55km or 15.88miles

 ‘’ If you are the wind on the sea, I am the water tingling under your breeze.  If you are a wave in flood, I am an empty shell dreaming of your coming’’. Paddy Bushe, Caherdaniel 

From Caherdaniel to Sneem via Gleesk Pier and across the mountains

I was reading about an environmental research study which proved that running by the sea offers a powerful psychological boost. I’m not at all surprised by this after all my adventures over the last eight years. Having said that, I’m not sure how today’s coastal stage will go as I’m tempted to come inland and run on the ‘Kerry Way’, along a ‘green’ road. The trail could also be called an old ‘Butter Road’ as it was along these ancient paths that farmers brought their casks of butter, by donkey and cart, to the Butter Exchange in Cork City. A journey of 150km each way. 

I enjoyed these sweet blackberries along the way

Anyway, in the end I decide to follow the N70 coastal route because I reckon it will be quieter on the Ring of Kerry at 7.00 on a Saturday morning. It turns out to be a good decision to stay on the main road as it looks quite misty up on the higher ‘Kerry Way’ route. 

Kerry could do with more of these cycle/walking paths

Not long after I leave Caherdaniel there is a cycle path that I can run on for a couple of kilometres. However, the bike lane almost tricks me into taking the L11602 which was just a lane heading down to small cove, that was a cul de sac. I continue along the 'Ring of Kerry' road. It's still only 7.40am when I reach Castle Cove or ‘An Siopa Dubh’ as its sometimes called. Old OS maps show that the village was previously called ‘Blackshop’, the direct translation. 

An Siopa Dubh at Castle Cove

About a kilometre pass Castle Cove, I pass ‘An Tra Bhain’ which is a tiny, charming and secluded beach, just off the main road. Even better, there’s a tap here to refill my water bottle. Perfect, as it is warming up now. Another beautiful morning but fog is still lingering on the mountains which worries me a little, as I know I’m going to have to cross some hills later. 

Perfect place to stop at 'An Tra Bhain'

I continue running on the N70 until I finally see the sign for Gleesk Quay. I realise now that I have a long run down to the shore. (It actually turns out to be 4k from the main road to the pier.) I’m hoping I don’t have to come all the way back up here again. My plan, which I’ve investigated over the last few weeks, is to hike (weather permitting) across the mountains from Gleesk Pier to the village of Sneem. 

It's a 4k run down to Gleesk Pier

There are no humans down by the harbour but lots of sheep scattered all over the headlands and around every corner, watching my every move. Just as well that I’m not scared of sheep; only cows bother me.

Lots of sheep down at Gleesk Pier

I had read that there was a special Coral Beach here at Gleesk. A rare geological gem and one of only two coral beaches in Ireland. The other one is near Carraroe in County Galway where I stopped on Stage 83. That beautiful Galway beach is called ‘Tra an Doilin’ and I remember being there in May 2023. Unlike all the other beaches in Ireland which are made of sand, a coral beach is made from dried and sun-bleached algae. Having said all that, I’m afraid I could not see any signs of a Coral Strand at Gleesk. Maybe it can only be spotted at low tide. I loved the quaint little pier though.

I notice a lane heading inland with a sign saying ‘Cul de Sac’. I follow it as it winds up the hill, higher and higher. When I reach the end, I climb over a gate and head for the mountains, known as the ‘Derreenavurrig Hills’. There is a long ridge of peaks that stretch from west to east. They start on the west side at the N70 at ‘Eisc na Leathog’ and the ridge extends all the way to the east, as far as Garnish Island. 

Goat greets me before I climb over the mountains

I decide to try to cross over the ridge at the lowest point – but still 161 metres high on the OS map – through a kind of valley. I ring Maureen at this stage to tell her where I am. The mountaineer, John Muir describes my feelings exactly as I leave the path and ‘rough it’ over the hills.

"We are now in the mountains, and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us." 

However, I’m lucky that it turned out to be a beautiful day and now the sun is shining too. I’m still climbing, and the views are spectacular. When I reach the top of the mountain I sit on a rock and reward myself with some drink and chocolate. I can now see Sneem in the distance and I can even spot the lane I’m trying to reach at ‘Inchinaleega West’ that will take me all the way into the village. 

View from mountain top while crossing over to Sneem

So pleased with myself having climbed over these hills from Gleesk Pier

It’s still a struggle coming down the hills, but everything is so much better than yesterday. I’m so delighted to finally reach the square at Sneem. It’s still only 11.30am. A good day at the office.

Arriving in Sneem, Co. Kerry

Stage 120 Co. Kerry: Revisited: Lamb’s Head Peninsula, Derrynane & Abbey Island: Sunday 24 August 2025: 14.6 km or 8.45miles

 ‘Although alas I cannot boast myself thy favoured child, yet midst the ardent crowd who seek thy shrine, there breathes not one who’s sold more deeply, more devotedly is thine’ Ellen Fitzsimon-O’Connell

Rediscovered Meadow Path

Those lines are actually from a 193-year-old poem written by Daniel O’Connell’s daughter, Ellen - and dedicated to her father. These verses have led to the discovery of a lost pathway near the home of Daniel O'Connell in Co Kerry. The pathway, known as 'The Meadow Walk’, has been uncovered in dense woodlands to the north of the Liberator’s house in Derrynane. The two-kilometre pathway which winds its way through the woods and along a mountain stream has revealed a number of interesting features. Maureen, Brian and I walked along this ancient path but more about that later.

Lamb’s Head/An Rath

Even though I ran to Ballinskelligs on Friday and to Sneem yesterday I didn’t complete the peninsula just south of Caherdaniel. I’ll call this section ‘Lamb’s Head Peninsula’, after the point at the bottom or ‘Ceann an Uain’. I’m up at sunrise again and run along the N70 SE for about 200 metres and then take a right signposted, ‘Lamb’s Head’. I follow a quiet country coastal lane to the very bottom of the peninsula. There’s a proper man-made pier here but much more attractive is the natural pier which is nestled between the cliffs. 

The road to Lambs Head

The natural pier at Lamb's Head

My plan is to loop back along the east side of the peninsula, so I leave the harbour and climb up the hill until I reach the highest point. So far, so good but after this it is a total disaster for me, trying to struggle through long grass with no sign of any path. 

Reached top of hill at Lamb's Head

View from the top of Lamb's Head

It was probably too ambitious of me to try to circle the whole peninsula on this type of terrain. Even reaching the country lane at West Rath was tough going and when I got to that road I should have just followed it back to the west side of the peninsula. On google maps and even from a distance the surface looks like flat greenery with rocky climbable parts, but when you get up close the terrain is full of long grass that is sometimes soft and boggy. I was constantly stumbling and sinking the whole time and there was no path to follow. Every step was difficult. Also, in the middle section I had to descend through lots of thorn bushes and brambles. It was only a 9.5k loop around this peninsula but it took me over two hours. My legs were destroyed with bites, scrapes and most worrying, ticks, which took me a while later to extract. Also, disappointingly, I didn’t even see the old WW 2 sign that I read was at the bottom of the peninsula.

Derrynane: Abbey Island & The Meadow Walk

At least it was another beautiful morning, and things could only get better today - and they did. At about 11.00am, Maureen, Brian and I drive down to the shore. We park our car close to Derrynane House (Daniel O’Connell’s original home) and head to the nearby beach.

The Abbey on Abbey Island

It is now low tide, and we see the whole area in all its glory. We take off our shoes and socks and walk along the shore. In the distance we can already see the cemetery on Abbey Island or ‘hOilean na Mainistreach’ (Island of the Monastery). As the tide is out, we can continue all the way along the beach to the island itself. 

The view from The Abbey

We reach the graveyard and the Abbey. It’s such a lovely setting and I had read that Mary O’Connell (wife of Daniel) is buried at the cemetery. We struggle for quite a while trying to find her grave and then realise it’s actually in a tomb inside the old Abbey in the middle of the cemetery.  

The tomb where Mary O'Connell is buried

Grave of Mary O'Connell (Daniel's wife)

The abbey is now in a ruined state on the island. It was originally founded by St Finian around the 8^th century. As it is the 250^th anniversary of the birth of Daniel O’Connell this month, there has been a lot of talk about his wife, Mary’s grave and how its overgrown and neglected. I didn’t think it was so bad. I thought the cemetery itself had the most beautiful location on the island with the Abbey overlooking the sandy beaches. So much nicer compared to where her husband, Daniel is buried in an elaborate crypt at Glasnevin Cemetery. He asked that his heart be sent to Rome, and he got his wish, well at least the first two parts. 

‘‘My body to Ireland, my heart to Rome, my soul to Heaven’’

When he died in 1847, his heart was placed in a silver casket at St Agata dei Goti church in Rome. However, in 1927 authorities discovered it was not there anymore, and it’s still missing today!

Two headed Island - view from Abbey Island

Back in 2025 I leave Maureen and Brian at the ancient Abbey and run south to the very bottom of the island. Unlike my experience earlier at Lamb’s Head Peninsula it’s a perfect trail all the way to the southern point of Abbey Island. From here I have great views of two other islands, ‘Two Headed Island’ and ‘Moylaun Island’. Further out west I can see two more bigger ones, Scariff and Deenish. Scariff has a hill of 252 metres. It was once inhabited by monks and there’s evidence of ancient Christian paths on the island.

Scariff and Deenish Islands - view from Abbey Island

I return to the mainland and meet up with Maureen & Brian again. It’s still low tide so we are able to walk, bare footed again, all the way around to Derrynane Pier. Once our shoes are back on, we continue up the hill, stopping off at Keatings Bar for a drink and pizza (Brian is happy!) before heading back to Derrynane House. 

Derrynane House - Home of Daniel O'Connell

After an interesting tour of the O’Connell home, we come back to the carpark and join the ‘Meadow Walk’ I referred to earlier. This ancient path was only discovered recently by a local poet; Paddy Bushe and he was able to locate the trail from the long poem that Ellen O’Connell (Daniel’s daughter) had written.

The ancient Meadow Path

' … where the bright golden blossoms of the furze with the dark purple of the heath combine. With hasty step, I press the thymy turf that springs elastic neath my foot’.

Yes, that extract, although 200 years old, is still a lovely description of the trail. Amazing to be able to walk this path and ramble through the whole O’Connell and Derrynane grounds. I can imagine the discussions that took place along here with ideas and plans that changed the course of Irish history, hopefully for the best. Even in today’s world Daniel O’Connell would be admired. He always stood up for and fought the case, for those less fortunate than himself.