Total distance around Ireland so far : 5,227km (3,248miles)

Welcome to my Blog! You can read my story so far below and also see the plan ahead for July and August. All welcome to join me on any run, or even for part of a stage.

Stage 142: Friday 10 July: Carrigaline to Kinsale

Stage 143: Saturday 11 July: Rest day (just a parkrun nearby)

Stage 144: Sunday 12 July: Carrigaline to Cork City

Stages 145-147  Probably on days between Monday and Thursday  13-16 July

Stages 148-149 Probably 28-30 August 

June 2026: Stages 139-141: Co. Cork: Rosscarbery to Kinsale

I’ve been lucky this weekend as it has finally stopped raining. There has been so much wet weather in the first ten or eleven days in June, and the island of Ireland has never looked so green. We noticed this as we crossed the country to reach Clonakilty where we were staying. It was an ambitious plan this weekend, running another three stages, one day after another. Thankfully it will be the last of my three-in-a-row runs. While I’m in West Cork, I try to cover as much of the coast as possible as it is such a long drive from Co. Down to the southwest of the country.

How it all began: Remember the crazy idea is to run around the whole coast of Ireland - and strictly by the COAST. Up to now I've achieved this by running once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of  ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now in the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027). I've already completed Co. Clare, Co. Limerick and Co. Kerry. Since March 2026 I've been tackling the coast of Co. Cork (as per planned stages above) See also earlier blogs for full story since the very beginning of this adventure. In the past, my run has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I raised £Stg3,688 for Clifton School and later €2,500 for Rosedale Special School in Galway. I'm going to continue this trend of supporting Special Schools in all four provinces in Ireland. (see Justgiving link below) and now I'm supporting Saint Gabriel's School in Cork. Also, there are still signed copies of my books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon. All profits to Special Schools in Ireland.

Raising funds for Special Schools - see link below

www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle

If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.

Read story so far (below) and/or donate to Special Schools www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle

Stage 139 Co. Cork: Clonakilty to Rosscarbery: Friday 12 June 2026: 32.6km or 20.2miles

 ‘As the endless sea renews itself each day across the shining beach, this town will sustain itself’ Ian McMullan referring to Clonakilty

We are very thankful to Maureen’s in-laws, Maeve and Killian Hurley who are allowing us to stay in their beautiful house in Inchydoney, about 4k south of Clonakilty. Such amazing views from the front room across the beach - and with the turning tides, the scenery changes all the time. 

View from house we're staying in at Inchydoney

This morning my Garmin watch tells me it’s 6.34am as I start today’s run. Inchydoney was once an island and in an 1840’s Ordnance Survey map you can see it had been surrounded by water with just a causeway linking it to the mainland. After the Battle of Clonakilty in 1642, six hundred of the Irish forces fled towards the island to take refuge; but with the tide setting in at the time, they all drowned before they could reach it.

The Hungerfords were the original owners of Inchydoney and didn’t take too kindly when others tried to get across to the island in the early 1900’s. ‘Gates were left open and animals strayed away’, the Hungerfords complained. The locals were not impressed and felt that they were denied their access rights, especially as the Irish name for the island was ‘Inse Duine’, translated as the people’s island. They retaliated by tearing down the island gates. There was further irritation and embarrassment for the Hungerfords when some clever character wrote a song ‘Who broke the island gates’, which became very popular in this area at the beginning of the 20^th century.   

It’s a misty morning as I follow the coast road south around by Rineen. I’m running for a few miles when suddenly a runner overtakes me. Of course I can’t have that. I catch him up and we run together for a while. I think he said his name was George Flanagan and we keep going until we reach Duneen Bay Beach. 

With George Flanagan

With Maeve Williams at Duneen Bay Beach

Here I get chatting to a lady, Maeve Williams, who despite the early morning mist, has been swimming in the sea with her son Jack. It can also be rough in this area because in 1867 a storm drove the Italian ship ‘Captain Garibaldi’ onto the sands.

After leaving Duneen, I have to come inland but shortly I’m back down to the coast at ‘Daniels Crossroads’. As I run down to the shore, the mist suddenly disappears. It’s like mother nature has woken up from her morning slumber and the whole landscape brightens up in front of me. It’s a long-crooked and winding lane through the trees to a small harbour. The area is called Brownstown and this wonderful country lane with grass in the middle continues along the shore. It then climbs steeply to display beautiful views over Clonakilty Bay.   

Coast road at Brownstown

I continue and soon arrive in ‘Red Strand’. There is some speculation that there was an ancient blood battle fought on the beach, but I suspect that it got its name from the colour of the sand. It is more brown than red and reminds me of Lanzarote. 

Red Strand

I follow the L4008 after leaving the beach. The road comes inland but then I take a left and run along ‘the long arm of Galley Head’ as Peter Somerville-Large called it during his coastal travels of West Cork. He used a bicycle on his adventure when he cycled around the coast in 1972. I’m beginning to envy Peter on his bike and can imagine him freewheeling down these hills.   

As I get closer to Galley Head I can spot the Lighthouse at the end. It looks interesting so I’m looking forward to visiting it. I’m thinking, maybe I’ll have a break – might even get a coffee there – except, believe it or not, there is no access to the Lighthouse. A sign says ‘Private Property, no trespassing’ so I have to turn around. 

No entry to Galley Head Lighthouse

At least I don’t have to run back the whole way. At the first crossroads I can take a left and spot a beach in the distance. It’s called Long Strand. At first, it doesn’t seem to live up to its name but once I start running, I wonder will I ever reach the other end. It is about 2km long and not safe for swimming because of strong currents. It is so good to run on a beach again. I haven’t had much opportunity in West Cork so far but I’m making up for it this weekend with lots of opportunities. It gives me a chance to use my favourite running phrase that the ancient Greeks used, ‘sand for the feet of the runner’  

It gets even better because right at the end of Long Beach there is a wee Café or Beach Hut called the ‘The Fish Basket’. It’s the perfect place and time to stop as I’ve run 25k already this morning – so 75% of today’s run completed.  

Cathlyn at The Fish Basket

I am in the greater Castlefreke (or Rathbarry) area which is called after the Freke family who were known as ‘The Barons of Carbery’. They owned 13,700 acres in this area. That is a lot of land, about 55 square kilometres, so quite a big farm! Somerville-Large describes Lord Carbery Freke as someone who ‘was mad on shooting, married to three different wives, and one of the first Irishmen to fly his own plane’ 

 After I leave Long Strand, I continue on the coastal R598 and arrive at another beach. This one is called ‘Little Island Strand’ on the OS map and it, more or less, joins up with ‘Owenahincha Beach’.

Maureen and I - exactly 40 years ago!

Back in the 1970’s and 1980’s there were three hotels and two caravan parks in Owenahincha that were always full from June to August. It was a popular place with families from Cork City. Maureen and I were actually here in the 1980’s and we stayed at the Owenahincha Hotel. I remembered that I kept a diary at the time and after searching through our attic I found my 1986 Diary. As it turned out our first visit to Owenahincha was on the 12^th June – so exactly 40 years ago to the very day. Amazing coincidence.

My diary entry 12 June 1986

Owenahincha Hotel - no longer there any more - was behind this windmill 

Unfortunately, the hotel we stayed in, is no longer there. As the Irish economy grew in the 1990’s people had more money and could afford to travel outside the country. Coastal resorts like Owenahincha suffered.

Maureen and I on Owenahincha Beach today 

I follow the cliff path. It has turned out to be a beautiful morning and it’s still only 10.30am when I reach ‘Warren Beach’ or Craggane Strand as its sometimes called. 

View from cliff to Warren Beach

The tide is out so I can run on the beach and after taking off my shoes and socks, I am able to paddle across the river onto Rosscarbery Pier. I then make my way into Rosscarbery village.

After crossing Rosscarbery River at low tide

View from Rosscarbery Pier

While I’m waiting for Maureen and Brian, I notice that there is a plaque commemorating Rosscarbery’s finest runner Timothy J. O Mahony. Not only was he the fastest Irishman in the 400 metre (or quarter mile) in the 1880’s but he also beat the USA champion at the time. Unfortunately for him, the modern Olympics didn’t begin until 1896, so he was never officially recognised, even though in the 1880’s he was the de facto World Champion. He was known as ‘The Rosscarbery Steam Engine’

Timothy O'Mahony's (Rosscarbery Steam Engine)

When Maureen and Brian arrive, we return to Owenahincha Beach to re-enact our 12 June 1986 picture. Exactly 40 years, to the day (see earlier)

Circling Inchydoney Island: I am almost reluctant to mention this but later this evening, Maureen, Brian and I set off for a walk along the east strand on Inchydoney. I was curious to see if it was possible to walk around the whole island. As it was low tide again, we kept walking anticlockwise. 

Maureen & Brian - circling Inchydoney Island 

However, the sand got softer and there were a few streams to either avoid or jump over - but we kept going. We then tried to leave the soft sand and reach the proper shoreline. At this stage the sand wasn’t just soft any more. It was also wet, slippy and swampy. Also, Brian’s and Maureen’s shoes got stuck in the soft sand, but we made it to land ok. However, in our exertions we lost one of Brian’s shoes. We ended up walking back to our house, about 2k away, Brian wearing my shoes and me in my bare feet. At least I can now say I walked around the whole island.       

 

Stage 141: Co. Cork: Timoleague to Kinsale: Saturday 13 June 2026: 39.4km or 24.5miles: 

‘The eagle shelters not his nest from hurricane and hail,
More bravely than he guards my breast, the Boatman of Kinsale’. Thomas Davis

It’s Saturday morning so once again I feel obliged to do the nearest parkrun which is in Clonakilty, about 4k from our house in Inchydoney. After yesterday’s long run and the fiasco of circling Inchydoney Island, I’m wondering why I’m bothering doing the parkrun at all. It’s just delaying my long run today. I should explain that in my local running club in North Down, there is an unofficial award to the person in the club who does the parkrun at the furthest point from Bangor. It’s called the ‘Tourism Award’. There are no trophies or medals awarded but it is always a bit of an honour to read Chris Downey’s report to see if you have won it. Usually, someone needs to be overseas to get it, so I wasn’t feeling very confident. (PS On the Sunday morning I discovered I did win it – beating 94 others who completed various parkruns, including my Clubmate Glen Frazer who ran in Harrogate, Yorkshire). Everyone at Clonakilty parkrun was so friendly and encouraging to me on my crazy adventure.

Finishing Clonakilty parkrun

I had also arranged to meet Pat Mulcahy in Clonakilty (the connection was that Helen Byers had met him at the Tokyo Marathon). Pat had kindly agreed to drive me to Timoleague after the parkrun. Interesting to chat together and share our running exploits.

It was 11.00am when we arrived in Timoleague and I have to admit that I was not enthusiastic about today’s run, even had a lonesome feeling. In the local Centra Shop, Pat bought me a bottle of water and some ice cream for his children. I felt like having my own ice cream and just enjoying the rest of the beautiful day with Maureen and Brian.

Also, I have decided that I’m only going to run as far as Ballinspittle today as I feel it would be too tough to go all the way to Kinsale. I just don’t have the motivation or energy to run too far today.

Anyway, I start my run along the north shore of the River Arigideen and follow the R600 which hugs the north shore for about 8km as far as Garranefeen Strand. 

Garranefeen Strand

Crossing the bridge over Coolmain Bay I adjourn to a quieter road. I’m heading for Howe Strand. Along the country lane I get chatting to a man who shows a lot of interest in my adventure. He suggests that instead of finishing today in Ballinspittle that I should run as far as Garrettstown Strand. He advises me that there is more going on at this vibrant resort. He also tells me about nearby Coolmain Castle – once home of Roy Disney, nephew of Walt Disney.

I ring Maureen and I tell her about my change of plan, and we arrange to meet in Garrettstown Strand at 2.00pm.

In the meantime, I run down towards Howes Strand. On the way I meet a girl who recognises me from Clonakilty parkrun earlier. It’s Lynn Frost, and her married name is Howe, like the strand!

With Lynne Frost

These two encounters with friendly people have cheered me up and I wonder should I try to carry on all the way to Kinsale, after a good break in Garrettstown Strand.

At Howe’s Strand, there’s hardly anyone on the beach, but I do spot the old Coastguard Station on the hill. In July 1920, during the War of Independence there was an attack on this building. These coastal stations were primary targets as they were viewed as potential barracks for British military. Apparently, this was considered one of the most daring attacks in Co. Cork.

The old coastguard station at Howe Strand

I head north again and reach the scary sounding ‘Corpse Crossroads’. I think this crossroads was named as such because it was the direction that funerals took on their way to the cemetery. I see there is a church nearby, so it makes sense. 

I’m not really too disappointed about by-passing the village of Ballinspittle, famous for moving statues! I find it embarrassing that in 1985 people believed this. Two women said they witnessed the statue moving while praying at the grotto. People came in busloads and it started a phenomenon of other moving statues all over Ireland. 

Instead, I run down to Garrettstown Strand. While I’m waiting for Maureen and Brian, I take off my shoes and socks and rest my feet in the salty water. It feels good. I have a coffee and more water when they arrive. I put on some more sun cream and decide to continue running all the way to Kinsale.

Maureen & Brian at Garrettstown Strand

Not far along the coast is another beautiful beach called, White Strand or ‘Garylucas Strand’. I did wonder who Gary Lucas was and why a beach was called after him. I googled and found out that he is a famous guitarist and has released over 25 albums to date. Rolling Stone Magazine called him ‘one of the best and most original guitarists in America’

White Strand or Garylucas Beach

Anyway, it turns out that it’s not Gary Lucas’s beach after all. The name is derived from the Irish ‘Garrai Lucas’, the garden of Lucas, so nothing at all to do with the famous guitarist.

I follow the R604 out towards ‘Old Head of Kinsale’. It’s a tough climb but the perfect day to be looking out onto the Celtic Sea. 

Old Head of Kinsale

However, it’s disappointing not to be able to get to the end of the peninsula. There is a private golf course on Old Head with a sign saying, ‘Members & Guests only’. So, I have to turn back. 

No entry to the top of Old Head Peninsula

At least I can loop around a different road (L3233) and run downhill.

I come to ‘Old Head Pier’, and even though its high tide, I’m able to make my way along Bullens Bay Strand. It’s tricky trying to work my way through the country lanes but eventually I follow the Bike markers and make my way to Sandy Cove. 

Sandy Cove, near Kinsale 

Lots of people here enjoying the fine weather and I’m able to follow the coast road (Ardkilly Ridge). The last kilometre into Kinsale was on the busy R600 but once I reached the bridge there was a footpath and Maureen and Brian were waiting for me on the other side. It has been a long day, but I do feel pleased with myself that I persevered.   

Kinsale at last 

 

Stage 140: Co. Cork: Clonakilty to Timoleague: Sunday 14 June 2026: 43.3km or 26.9miles:

‘I am flirting with the green waves, wandering the sand, feeding reflection into the seaweed foam’ From ‘The Ruins of Timoleague Abbey’ by Sean O’Coileain

Yes, I’m doing today’s run out of sequence as it was easier to get a lift to Timoleague yesterday. It is 7.02am as I leave Inchydoney. Looks like another beautiful morning and I follow the coast road to Clonakilty.

The town was founded by Richard Boyle in 1613 and his plan for the village was that it was to be a Protestant or British town. For years it was like that. There was an attempt in 1798 to start an Irish rebellion, but it never took off like it did in the other three provinces. In that year, there was a certain amount of success in Co. Mayo, Co. Wexford and Co. Down but nothing in Munster. The 1798 Co. Cork encounter just outside Clonakilty was known as the ‘Battle of the Big Cross’ but it was a short engagement. It was reported that after their victory, the yeomanry troops dragged the bodies of the dead rebels into the village and later dumped them at a spot called ‘The Croppy Hole’.

Michael Collins House, near Clonakilty

Almost one hundred years later in 1890, one of Ireland’s most famous sons, Michael Collins was born in Clonakilty. In his late teens he moved to London where he met a fellow Cork man, Sam Maguire (who the big cup is called after!) Maguire introduced Collins to the Irish Republican Brotherhood (IRB) and as they say, the rest is history. However, it was a sad ending to Michael Collins’s life at nearby ‘Beal na Blath’, murdered in 1922 by his fellow Irishmen. We visited Michael Collins house on Friday afternoon.

Today from Clonakilty I follow the L4015 coast road or ‘Ring Road’ but called after the townland of Ring. I thought I’d have the west wind behind me today, but strangely its blowing from the east side to add to my difficulties.

At Ring Pier

Near Ring Pier

It’s a beautiful area down in this corner of Co. Cork. Lots of palm trees and wild grass. More hills to climb but then I have a long run downhill to ‘Ballinglanna Beach’. It is quite a secluded beach, so sheltered that there is no easy access. I climb down through the rocky cliff as I need to get to the other side of the strand. 

Ballinglanna Beach

Luckily it was low tide as I was able to join a slipway that brought me onto a coastal road and eventually to a strange named place called, Turkeyland. Didn’t spot any poultry at all along here.

Maloney's Strand

At Maloney's Strand looking towards Seven Heads Peninsula

I carry on around Moloney’s Strand and then look out for access to the ‘Seven Heads Trail’ path. A few years ago, I read an article about a fourth-generation farmer, Harold Kingston, who oversees a long coastal path through his land. The trail runs all the way from the bottom of the Seven Heads Peninsula along the coast to Courtmacsherry. Harold doesn’t believe in compulsory purchase orders for greenways or hiking paths, and he argues that it is better to work with local farmers to agree access. In Ireland walkers (or runners) have no rights to roam like they do in Scotland and England. Sometimes this can be annoying for me. However, there are not many occasions when I feel I need to enter a farm without permission. I always respect a ‘no entry’ sign.

Today I still can’t find where this trail begins. I flag down a car and a lady stops. She’s a local girl and is able to guide me towards the starting point. She tells me that I need to get to ‘Carrigeen Crossroads’, marked on the OS map and then head south to ‘Ballymacshoneen’. It didn’t help that there are no markings on the country lanes to help you. In fact, the road down towards ‘Travara Cove’ says ‘cul de sac’.

Start of 'Seven Heads Path' at Travara Cove

I’m so relieved to find the true start of the ‘Seven Heads’ trail. It even looks as if the grass has been cut especially for me. I enjoyed this run or hike. The only difficulty I had was that all the signs were geared towards someone going from north to south. It reminded me of the film ‘The Poseidon Adventure’ when the survivors had to make their way through an upside-down ship. 

Following the Seven Heads Trail

Although it is a beautiful Sunday morning in June, I don’t meet anybody at all until I get much further north.

Broad Strand, near Courtmacsherry

Eventually I reach Broad Strand, near where the explorer, Patrick Keohane was born. Keohane was part of Captain Scott’s ill-fated South Pole expedition along with a famous Kerryman, Tom Crean. I like the answer that Keohane gave to Scott when he was asked at the interview why he was volunteering for the Antarctica trip. Keohane replied….

‘I always wanted to see what’s on the other side of the hill’

Patrick Keohane, Antarctica explorer

On the northside of Broad Strand I follow steps and a very narrow path. I’m not sure if this is the ‘Fuchsia Loop’ I’d read about. Yes, I do spot some fuchsia bushes.

The narrow Fuchia Trail, near Courtmacsherry

Once I leave this narrow path I thought I could continue along the coast, but it didn’t seem possible. Anyway, I make it to the lovely village of Courtmacsherry. 

Great to reach this long village

It is one of the longest towns or villages in Ireland, 2.5k – which is quite long, especially for me, after all the miles I’ve run this weekend. I pass an area called Siberia which today looks like the complete opposite of what we normally associate with Russia’s Siberia.   

I follow the R601 road along the river and finally cross the bridge into Timoleague. The village is dominated by the huge 13^th century Franciscan Friary/Abbey. The Abbey is on the site of a 6^th century monastic settlement founded by Saint Molaga, after whom Timoleague is called. ‘Ti Molaga’, translates as the house of Molaga.

Timoleague Friary

Amazing that this building is so preserved and still survives in good order 800 years later. When Maureen and Brian arrive, we walk through the ancient building. In 1620 the School of Philosophy was established in the Abbey – that’s still 400 years ago. I know the Greeks were into athletics and running but they were also the race that developed philosophy, the study of love and wisdom. Being close to this ancient Abbey I feel very young and happy that I was able to complete 115k (71 miles) in three days.

Inside Timoleague Abbey

Late May 2026: Stages 136-138: Co. Cork: Skibbereen to Rosscarbery

Yes, still in West Cork and this weekend we stayed in an Airbnb in a beautiful place, called Castletownshend. I first thought the village was named as such because it is tucked in a quiet corner or at the very end of this region. However, the village is actually called after the Townshend family who built the castle in the 1600’s. They still own the castle today and run it as a guesthouse.

I’ve been reading Peter Somerville-Large’s ‘The Coast of West Cork’ describing the whole area in the early 1970’s. Peter, whose family came from Castletownshend, covered the coast on a bicycle. In his book, he also referred to other explorers like Bishop Pococke who went through the area on horseback in 1758. Someone once described the bishop as ‘the dullest man who ever travelled’. Let’s hope that this 2026 explorer (me!) is not like that and won’t bore people too much. So read on to find out….

 

Stage 136 Co. Cork: Castletownshend to Baltimore: Friday 22 May 2026: 39.1km or 23.4miles

‘Of all inhabitants on earth to man alone I owe my birth. And yet the cow, the sheep, the bee are all my parents more than he’ Jonathan Swift who spent time in Castletownshend

I can identify with the writer Jonathan Swift as I rarely meet any people these mornings, just cows and sheep! I sneak out of the Airbnb at 6.53am. Just outside Castletownshend I follow the lane, signposted to Tragumna. These roads are so quiet and perfect for running on. I hardly see anyone or any cars all day. At Castlehaven Cross, I take a left passing Sandy Cove and sticking to the Western Road (L4218) as it’s aptly called.  

A marker pointing to the coast says, ‘Toe Head’. I’m able to loop around this small peninsula and do a little detour up to the Signal Tower which was built in 1803.

Signal Tower & later a Coast Guard Station

I think the British government panicked at the time, building hundreds of these signal towers to protect the Irish coast at the beginning of the 1800’s. The French had tried to land near Bantry in 1796, and they did actually arrive in north Mayo, where with only 1,000 men they had a fairly successful campaign in Connacht. There were no more invasions, and a lot of these towers fell into ruins as they were miles from anywhere. At least this one in Toe Head was converted to a Coast Guard Station. It looks more like a castle compared to some of the other Signal Towers I’ve seen. I read that 550 people lived in this area before the famine. Today there are few signs of any residents. 

The Stags where many ships crashed

Out in the ocean I spot ‘Na Stacai’ (The Stags) which is a group of jagged rocks which can easily tear through the hull of any passing ship. In 1945 a German U-boat, the U-260 crashed here and more recently in 1986 the ‘Kowloon Bridge’ ship suffered. It was on a voyage from Canada to Scotland and the subsequent oil spill caused a lot of damage to marine life. It’s the largest ever shipwreck in Irish waters.      

View from the coastal road near Gokane Point 

I stick to the coast road and shortly come to Tragumna. I follow a coastal path but after a few hundred metres it gets more difficult and there are cliffs to climb around. I turn back and take the country lane instead. Another steep climb – lots of hills today. 

I shouldn't have followed the coast from here!

I reach Tralispean Cove and this time, in my wisdom, decide to try to stay by the coast to reach Tranabo Cove and Lough Hyne. This wasn’t a good idea at all! There was a rough coastal path which seemed very achievable to run on. Spotting the pier at Tranabo Cove in the distance gave me confidence. However, reaching the harbour was very difficult. I ended up trampling through bushes and brambles and having to climb over rocks and mini cliffs.

Not a nice experience - climbing back down this cliff

It was not a pleasant experience, clambering over steep rocks, trying to get through gorse bushes and crossing over a deep stream with a high wall behind it. I felt worn out with lots of cuts and scratches by the time I reached Tranabo Cove. The cove translates as ‘tra na bo’ (beach of the cow). At least I didn’t encounter any cattle which would have added to my misery. At the pier I washed the blood of my legs and hands. I had been reading Robert Devoy’s account of the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and subsequent tsunami and how it affected the west of Ireland. Devoy gives examples of Tranabo Cove and Tralispean Bay ‘where the tsunami wave caused extensive cliff erosion and scouring’. Yes, it had been a strange and difficult coastline to manoeuvre.

Scratched limbs after clambering towards 'Tra na bo'

I head north, passing Ballyally Lough, following the bike sign to the left and finally reach Lough Hyne or Loughine as its also called. Lough Hyne was once a freshwater lake, but rising sea levels have made it more of a sea lake – or maybe lagoon is the proper term. It is also 50 metres deep, so I better be careful running along the edge. It is Ireland’s first marine nature reserve. I read too that the water near the sea entrance creates a habitat of highly oxygenated warm seawater that sustains plants and animals, many of which are not found anywhere else in Ireland or northern Europe. 

Swimming in Lough Hyne

I get chatting to a man who’s just been in for swim. His name is Johnny Holland, and he tells me that he swims in the lough every day. I think he said the water temperature was 13 degrees which is quite warm for this time of the year. I like what the writer Fitz-James O’Brien wrote about Loughine (as it is also called). O’Brien was born exactly 200 years ago but I don’t think much has changed since he wrote this.

I know a lake where cool waves break and softly fall on a sylvan sand and no steps intrude on that solitude, and no voice save mine disturbs the strand.

Yes, it is a lonely place or maybe the Irish word ‘uaigneach’ sums it up better. Uaigneach also captures a sense of isolation and remoteness. The writer Thackeray was not impressed with Lough Hyne

‘I felt not sorry to have seen this lonely lake and still happier to leave it’

I spot a tiny island in the middle of the lake. The castle on the island is now in ruins. It was abandoned after their chief, Fineen O’Driscoll died in 1629. Then in the 19^th century the castle collapsed apparently caused by the barking of a black dog!

To add to the eerie atmosphere around the lough, it is getting very foggy all of a sudden. After running down the west side of the lake I loop around and head north back towards the main road. My original plan was to try to run down to Ballymacrown. By doing this I could reach the Baltimore Signal Tower and see the EIRE 29 sign, but it’s much too foggy today. (in any case I’ve already seen a lot of these EIRE signs on my coastal runs). 

Instead, I follow a bike trail sign along a country lane. On my OS map it’s called ‘Skibbereen Cycle Loop’. It’s a quieter way to enter Baltimore. 

Baltimore Beacon on foggy day

When I reach the village, I decide to continue running and keep going all the way up to the Baltimore Beacon. It’s nicknamed ‘the pillar of salt’ and yes, it does look like a large salt cellar. It’s actually 50 feet (or 15 metres) in both circumference and height. However, with today's fog there's not much of a view from here. On the following clearer days I kept spotting the Beacon from other areas.

Beacon looked much better from Sherkin Island three days later

Another view of Baltimore Beacon from Sherkin Island three days later

It was built to mark the harbour entrance for sailors, and this structure was completed in 1849, replacing an older version there since 1788. It is still foggy and also now for the first time today, it’s starting to rain. Maureen and Brian arrive just in time and I’m happy to finish my run at the Baltimore Beacon. 

   

Stage 137: Co. Cork: Skibbereen to Baltimore: Saturday 23 May 2026: 25.4km or 15.8miles:

‘And when to die a death of fire that noble maid they bore, she only smiled, O'Driscoll's child; she thought of Baltimore’ Thomas Davis

As it is a Saturday morning, first I have to (of course!) do the parkrun. The nearest one is called ‘Castlehaven parkrun’ which is in Rineen Woods, only about 6km north of where we are staying in Castletownshend. Just before we begin our 5k run, I give my wee speech about my adventure – only 19 people start and finish the hilly course. 

Can't miss an opportunity to do a parkrun

Afterwards I drive back to the Airbnb and Maureen takes me to Skibbereen. I make my way down to the river Ilen and run along the southern shore of the river. Today’s stage, on the face of it, is quite short but I’m going to include two islands, Inishbeg and Ringarogy (Rinn Ghearroige). In the small square in Skibbereen there is long poem on the wall celebrating the River Ilen. It was prepared by the artist Tess Leak and historian Gerald O’Brien.

‘I carry it constantly, I carry it all, I carry the fish workers fleeing traumatised Baltimore’

It’s much nicer to run along the river on the south shore. So quiet on this country lane. 

I can’t even imagine how different life was for everyone before the famine and before the spiral of emigration started. The writer Thackeray was here in 1842, a few years before 'the great hunger' and he commented on the crowds of people

‘The people came flocking into place by hundreds. The place seemed to be lined on either side with blue cloaks’

Just a few years later, everything changed. Peter Somerville-Large writing in 1971 says that West Cork never recovered from the famine.

‘It effects linger like clouds of fall-out. It gave the push to emigrated that was never halted’     

It was probably the 1990’s before Ireland (and West Cork) recovered and I don’t think this area will ever replenish the population of the 1840’s.     

I follow the River Ilen. Ilen translates as ‘Aighlinn’ a word sometimes associated with the way that moonlight reflects on water. At Oldcourt I join the main Skibbereen to Baltimore Road. It’s hard to believe that the railway line used to run along here, parallel to the R595. It is such a pity that the track was built on over the years. It would have made the perfect greenway. The last train left Baltimore on Good Friday 1961. 

Crossing over to Inish Beg Island 

After about 2km I’m relieved to leave the busy road and make a detour to Inish Beg. Once I cross over the causeway I take a right. It’s a beautiful island and it’s the perfect day to be here. I get chatting to a man with a horse and he encourages me to keep running through the grounds of the big house. 

Inish Beg - wish I had four legs like this animal

There is a wedding on the island today and I chat to a young couple who have just arrived. I continue running, following a trail through the woods and do a wee loop around this side of the island. When I return to the mainland again, I notice a lady waiting for a bus at the top of the road. She’s carrying a fiddle and waiting for a bus to take her to a session in a pub in Skibbereen. She tells me her name is Georgie Keane and in fact, she and her husband Paul are the owners of the estate on Inis Beg. They moved here in 1997 and have restored and developed the house and grounds for weddings and other events. What a great job they’ve done.

Georgie Keane, with fiddle & waiting for bus to Skibbereen

I only have to run on the main road for 2k before I can head over to another island. This one is called Ringarogy and I reach it by crossing the Lag Bridge. It is hard to believe that the island was once home to around 800 people, pre-famine of course.

Bridge to Ringarogy Island

The northern part of the island is called Donegall or Dún na nGall. No connection to Ireland’s northern county. It’s because Dun na nGall translates as ‘fort of the foreigner’ and there were lots of foreign invaders in this area. On the island I head south as I can see that there are a couple of roads that lead in the direction.

Country lane on Ringarogy Island

I follow the coast on the eastern side of the island, but I probably kept running too far, trying to reach the coast on the southern tip. I then realised I was in private grounds, and a lady asked me to leave her gardens. Fair enough! Pity though, there isn’t some kind of bridge or causeway from here at Ringarogy to Baltimore. As the crow flies, I’m so close! Unfortunately, I have to run back up the island again - all the way to the Lag Bridge and the mainland.

I was not looking forward to this part of my run, along the R595, a busy and sometimes narrow road that eventually leads to my final destination today.

The Irish-language name for Baltimore is ‘Dun na Sead’ ("fort of the jewels"). It is also the home of the O’Driscoll’s. I mentioned pirates on my recent blog when I referred to Long Island off the coast of Schull but didn’t realise how serious an issue this once was. In the 1500s this area became a haven for pirates, offering easy access to the main international shipping routes. The O’Driscoll’s seemed to be the main culprits. However, I’m not sure if it was just ironic or revenge but on 20 June 1631, Baltimore was attacked quite viciously by pirates from Algeria in North Africa. The event is known as the ‘Sack of Baltimore’. The pirates captured over a hundred people. Hard to know if some of the exiled Spanish O’Driscoll’s were involved in the raid.

Arriving in Baltimore

I can also make a connection to my hometown of Galway as I know that Richard Joyce the man who devised the design for the Claddagh Ring was also kidnapped by pirates from Algeria when he was a young man. An Algerian jeweller taught Joyce his trade and he was able to return to Galway and work on the famous ring.

The writer, Peter Somerville Large says that in the early 20^th century the pier in Baltimore was a scene of furious activity during the high season when mackerel were salted and packed for shipment to the United States. During WW1 special fish trains carried loads of salted mackerel to Cork City and as many as sixteen trains left Baltimore in one day.

Back in 2026 I arrive in a bustling Baltimore. Such a lovely town that feels like the gateway to the rest of the world, which isn’t really an exaggeration. I run to the end of the pier and stop my watch. Today’s stage was not as tough as I thought it would be. Strangely I hear a man’s voice calling my name, ‘Hello Gerry’. I’m wondering who could possibly know me in Baltimore. It turns out to be Dom, who stayed at the same B&B in Ballydehob a few weeks ago with his wife Anita. Dom had been over in Sherkin Island. He invited me to Bushes Pub where he buys me a Murphy’s and a pint of water. Just what the doctor ordered! (Dom, if you ever read this, please send me the picture you took of us)     

 

Stage 138: Co. Cork: Castletownshend to Rosscarbery: Sunday 24 May 2026: 43.7km or 27.1miles:

‘In dreams I climbed to Ardagh and gazed out o’er the sea. Dreaming of boyhood days in Ross’ A Rosscarbery Poem by Diarmuid O' Muineacain

Today I follow the coast east. This could be my last run in West Coast as I heard that Rosscarbery is the unofficial border between West Cork and the rest of Co. Cork.

Our Airbnb House in Castletownshend

The most famous residents of Castletownshend were Edith Somerville and Violet Florence Martin, who published books and short stories in the 1890’s about the Anglo-Irish ascendancy class. They wrote under the name ‘Somerville & Ross’ and their best known writings were called ‘Some Experiences of an Irish RM’ (RM stands for Registered Magistrate who were usually appointed in British Colonies, and I suppose back then Ireland was a colony). I remember the most famous character in their books. He was called ‘Flurry Knox’ and I love the way he is described when he first appears in their stories.

‘He was a fair, spare young man, who looked like a stable boy among gentlemen, and a gentlemen among stable boys’

Castletownshend - 250 year old house, where we stayed

The two ladies were very talented and are buried side by side in St. Barrahane’s Graveyard overlooking the harbour. In fact, the old name for the village, ‘Glenbarrahane’ is called after the fifth century saint. While we were in Castletownshend we did climb the steep hill to visit the ancient cemetery, but it was difficult to find the graves of the two ladies. 

Sycamore Trees in Castletownshend

This morning I leave Castletownshend at 6.50am. The forecast is good so I’m just wearing the short-sleeved Clifton/Rosedale shirt today. I take the Skibbereen road and then a right at the first crossroads. Passing Rineen Woods where I ran the parkrun yesterday, I loop around Castlehaven Bay. I actually missed the first right turn as I thought it was just an entry to a farm but then take the next one which brings me down to Myross Island, keeping Lough Cluhir on my right.

It’s so peaceful as I cross over the bridge to the island which was built around 1800. Sean O’Coileain, who was known as ‘the silver tongue of Munster’ was so impressed with the bridge that he wrote a poem about it.

‘Praise for the bright bridge of Myross stretched prone on the ford, solid secure underfoot, elegant finished complete’

Such praise and I can’t really add to that – to me it was just a wee bridge. 

View of Low & High islands from Myross Graveyard 

What was much more impressive was the graveyard on the island, ‘Reilig Mhiros’. I had to climb a steep hill to reach this cemetery which overlooks the Celtic Sea (as this part of the Atlantic Ocean is often called). Such beautiful views from here out to High Island and Low Island.    

I then ran back down the hill and followed the road east towards Squinch Harbour. Daniel Corkery described this eastern part of Myross as follows

‘One of the most secret places in Ireland, without traffic, almost without the pulse of life’

Once I reach the mainland there are more secret places to see. I meet two cyclists who have just been for a swim at a beach called ‘Tra na Oilean’ (beach of the island). They advise me to run down to the shore and I’m not disappointed. 

Running down to Tra na Oilean

What a magical place it is. Tra na Oilean is so close to Rabbit Island and that’s probably where the name comes from. Also, I noticed out in the bay a rocky section known as ‘Stack of Beans’   

View of Rabbit Island from Tra na Oilean

I continue running north towards Union Hall but take a detour down around Carrigihilly Lake and so arrive in the village from the south side. Union Hall seems a strange name for an Irish village. It was called after the big house that was named after the Act of Union in 1800. I’m not surprised that the hall was burned down in 1921 during the War of Independence.

Union Hall Village

Having a wee break in Union Hall

Strange though that there is no Irish or Gaelic name for the village. There were two Irish names, Bréantrá and Trá an Bhróin. The word Bréantrá means ‘rotten strand’ and Trá an Bhróin translates as ‘Strand of Sorrow’. Yes, I can see why they stuck with Union Hall instead of the Irish versions! In the village there is a monument dedicated to all those lost at sea. Nearby is also a huge anchor from an unknown 18^th century French ship. It was only found here as recent as 1999 at a location between Low Island and Myross Island (where I was close to earlier)  

Anchor found nearby off Myross Island

Poulgorm Bridge from Union Hall

Poulgorm Bridge that connects Union Hall and Glandore 

I cross Glandore Harbour over the narrow ‘Poulgorm Bridge’ and follow the coast road. As I get close to Glandore I notice that there seems to be something going on in the village. It is the annual Glandore Regatta and the perfect weather for it. There are 23 races on the cards today and plenty of excitement among the participants and spectators.

Annual Glandore Regatta

Grandore translates as Cuan D’Or, ‘harbour of gold’ and it was James Redmond Barry, a trusted companion of Daniel O’Connell who put the village on the map. Redmond Barry promoted local development and education. He also funded the harbour paying £10,000 in 1820. His vision sparked the first regatta in 1830 – and it continues today, almost 200 years later.  

It’s strange to see so many people. I’m more used to running along isolated country lanes or lonely beaches.

I’ve been reading Peter Somerville Large’s book ‘Coast of West Cork’. He cycled along these roads in 1972 on his own coastal adventure. He actually lived to the great age of 97 and only died very recently in October 2025. When he reached Glandore he commented.

‘I parked my bike nearby. Fortified by stout I was in better humour to tackle the steep hills’

Maybe I should have stopped for some Murphys or Guiness to ‘fortify’ myself for all the hills that were ahead of me. 

Leaving Glandore

I leave Glandore and shortly take a much quieter country road and make it all the way down to ‘Prison Cove’. I see from the ‘Irish Naturists Association’ that they recommend the cove as a safe place to swim naked. I think I could have run around this whole area in the nude as there is not a soul in sight. I’m not sure why it is called Prison Cove. I think it might be similar to ‘Lochan an Phriosuin’ (the pool of the prison) in Rosmuc, Co. Galway where fisherman could get trapped in by the tide. It is quite isolated here – with only one way in our out, so a bit of a prison I suppose. 

Prison Cove

There are two small islands off the coast called Adam and Eve. Around here the sailor’s saying is to ‘avoid Adam’, due to the shallows and reefs at the back of the island, but to ‘hug Eve’, where there are clearer waters, closer to the channel.

I walk back up (yes walk, not run!) another steep hill and follow a narrow road for a few miles, until the lane suddenly comes to an end. A sign says I have permission to cross into a farm at my own risk, so I rough it across the fields.

When the lane ended I did run across some fields

I spot a farm gate in the distance, and it eventually brings me onto a road in an area called Brulea. Soon I see Tralong Bay in front of me. From a distance it looks like a sandy beach, but there doesn't seem to be any access to the shore.

In any case I want to stay inland so that I can see the ‘Drombeg Stone Circle’  which is nearby. There are thirteen stones in a circle. In 1958 there were excavations and they showed that there was an urn burial in the middle and evidence of a body wrapped in a thick cloth. It is from the Bronze Age, 3,000 years ago. Also, at sunset during winter solstice (21 December), if you stand between the two main stones you can view the sun peeping through in the opposite hill. It’s a similar design to Newgrange, Co. Meath where the winter sun shines through a small gap and lights up a whole chamber. I feel I should make some connection to the ancient burial site and so I place my hand on a few of the stones, just as our ancestors might have done a few thousand years ago.

Drombeg Stone Circle - 3,000 years old

I return to the R597 for a few kilometres but at the Roury River I take a right, following the stream as far as Ballyvireen Bridge. From there I take the country lanes around by Droumgunna and Downeen and finally arrive in Rosscarbery. Exhausted after three days of running but happy to have achieved what I wanted to. All I want now is some water and a bag of salty crisps. 

So great to see this welcome sign!

As it is perfect weather, Maureen, Brian and I linger in the area and visit nearby Warren Beach (or Creggane Strand). Great to rest my feet in the cool salty water.

Warren Beach, Rosscarbery

Even on the following day (Monday) we make the most of the beautiful weather and get the ferry from Baltimore over to Sherkin Island. On the island we take the road SW for about 2k, passing the church. 

Brian&Maureen pointing to the beach we found on Sherkin Island

Soon we spot a beach in the distance and find a narrow grassy trail that leads us down to the sea. Here on Sherkin Island, on the warmest and sunniest day of the year, we have the sandy beach all to ourselves.

Maureen & Brian in front of sandy beach on Sherkin Island

Relaxing on Sherkin Island with Maureen & Brian