Stages 17 and 18 of Coastal Run: Culdaff to Buncrana (via Malin Head)
" And fair are the valleys of Green Inishowen and hardly the fishers that call them their own. A race that no traitor nor coward has known. Enjoy the fair valleys of Green Inishowen''
I like that inspirational quote that I saw on a sign at the Famine Village on Doagh Island. I needed to be inspired this weekend as I set myself a difficult task with a double session of coastal runs.
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| That fisherman is always at the same spot in Culdaff |
Stage 17: Culdaff to Ballyliffin (via Malin Head)
Friday 4th May 2018 (69k or 43 miles)
It’s a nice clear but cloudy morning as
I leave the lovely village of Culdaff on the Inishowen Peninsula. Heading north
along the ‘Inishowen 100’, I pass Portaleen and then I have to come inland as
there is no coastal path (just high cliffs!) on this side of Inishowen. After
about 4 miles of running inland I take a right turn at the T junction and then
after about 2 miles I take another right which leads me back down towards
the shore and to Malin Well. It’s always reassuring when I see the sea again!
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| Read above how cermony finishes. I had to do this part on my own! |
At the coast at Malin Well there are
huge rock formations in this secluded top corner of Inishowen. You can easily see
why the recent Star Wars film was shot in this area. (Star Wars addicts will
enjoy the fact that today is actually May the fourth!!)
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| View from Ruins of Church at Malin Well |
It’s so peaceful here on my own and I
pause for a while at the Grotto and Church ruins and at the ‘Wee House of
Malin’ where a hermit once lived in a cave. I wonder what possesses someone to
go off on their own like that!
I follow the coast with Malin Head
clearly visible now and carry on along a lovely grassy stretch (perfect for
running on) for a good half mile. At the end of the grassy section I take a
rough trail inland that takes me back up onto the country road (the ‘Inishowen
100’).
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| Just a few miles to Malin Head |
I come to a T junction after a while and take a right towards Malin
Head. When I reach Malin Head itself there’s a bit of a hill to run up. I can
see a group of tourists at the top watching me suffer but when I reach the top
they cheer me on! They are driving the Wild Atlantic Way with Joan Crawford from Failte Ireland.
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| Joan Crawford (Failte Ireland -Wild Atlantic Way) |
So I’m now at the top of Ireland – the
most northerly point! It’s called Banba’s Crown, after Banba who was one of the
mythical queens of Ireland. I walk down to the edge of the cliff at Malin Head and
see huge letters spelling out the word EIRE formed from placing stones
together. I notice as I got close that the stones are all cemented together.
They’ve been here since World War 2 and it was to signify to passing planes
that Ireland was a neutral country during the war.
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| EIRE 'sign' at top of Malin Head to signify WW2 Neutrality |
At Main Head I even get to enjoy some
water and coffee. When I ask directions from the man at the coffee stand, it
tells me I have lots of hills to climb but he says in all seriousness ‘at least
you can free-wheel down the other side’. I look at him and say ‘you know I’m
just running, not cycling’. ‘Oh’ he says, I thought you were cycling!.
I leave Malin Head and continue around
the top corner of Ireland and so I’m now heading south! On this west side of
Inishowen it’s much easier to get to the shore and at White Strand Bay I make
my way down to the beach and run along this sometimes rocky beach for a few
miles. My way becomes impaired as I’m running alongside a wide stream. Eventually
I come to a wee bridge and I’m happy to join up with the ‘Inishowen 100’
country road again.
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| La Rochelle visitors meet strange man! |
I stop to talk to a few French
tourists from La Rochelle and continue on this quiet but hilly section. It’s
brightening up now and soon I reach a beautiful viewing point overlooking the
spectacular Five Fingers beach. I follow the road downhill, take a right turn
at a crossroads and right again at the church and reach the amazing Five
Fingers (Lagg) strand. This beach was voted in the top 25 beaches in Ireland and best
for ‘Solitude’ which was very apt as I was the only person on the beach.
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| Five Fingers (Lagg) Strand from the top I was privileged to have the place to myself and it was perfect for running on too. Of course as the Greeks say ‘Sand is for the feet of the Runner'! |
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| Five Fingers - I have it all to myself |
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| Five Fingers Sand Dunes (some of the highest in Europe!) |
I continue along the beach and come back onto the main road again and soon come to Malin town where I stop for a drink of water and follow the Carndonagh road. Then after about 3k I take a right turn (signposted to ‘Driving Test Centre’ and so avoiding Carndonagh).
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| The Carndonagh by-pass |
I come back on the main road, take a right towards Ballyliffin and after about 5k I take a right again into Doagh Island (or Isle of Doagh).
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| Famine Village on Doagh Island |
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| See blue sign about Ballyliffin Coastal Run - it goes around Doagh Island |
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| In memory of Brendan Doherty |
The isle of Doagh was once an island
but, over time, the channel silted up and it became joined to the mainland. This
detour of mine of about 12k to circle the island was well worth it. Doagh (pronounced
‘Doe’) had plenty to keep me entertained with spectacular scenery, standing
stones, signs and stories explaining the original of various houses/townlands
and a Famine village of thatched cottages. Even when I eventually circle the whole
‘island’ I have the beautiful Pollan Strand to run on with the sea on my right
and the wide beach (lucky for me the tide is out!) and Golf Links on my left! The
Irish Open Golf Championship is taking place here in Doagh/Ballyliffin this
summer. It’s the perfect location and the perfect place to finish my longest
coastal run so far!
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| Sign at Famine Village on Doagh, just outside Ballyliffin. |
Stage 18: Ballyliffin to Buncrana
Saturday 5th May 2018 (37k or 23miles)
I leave the friendly Lynch’s at Ceecliff Guesthouse in
Culdaff after a nice breakfast (poached eggs and smoked salmon) and drive to
Ballyliffin. It’s slightly cool but I quickly warm up as I head off and very
shortly (after about 3k) I arrive in the village of Clonmany.
Clonmany
This village
has been unlucky with freak weather in the past. In 1840, the village
experienced an earthquake. The Belfast Newsletter reported that "some people were thrown from their chairs, and greatly alarmed." Then as recent
as August 2017, the village was severely affected by flooding. Some residents were cut off
due to rising river levels and had to be rescued from their homes.
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| I saw these abandoned shoes at Tullagh Point (previous Coastal Runner calling it a day?) |
At Lenan Bay I’m tempted to follow a rough coastal
road and track over the Urris Hills. However, looking at the Ordnance Survey
Map, the track seems to disappear half way over the mountain. This coastal
route would definitely be a much shorter way to reach Crummiest Bay and Dunree
Head. After my exploits of struggling through Inishowen Head in April, I’m
reluctant to cross over rough terrain, although this coastal route looked very
achievable on a day like today.
The other reason I don’t take this rough coastal way
today is because I’m hoping to meet up with Helen and Neill. Helen (fellow coastal
runner as far as Derry/Donegal border) and Neill are cycling today around the
Inishowen peninsula. I know they’re going to have to come over the Gap of
Mamore and I’m really looking forward to meeting them. In fact that idea of
meeting them is giving me great motivation to keep going. I leave Lehan Bay and
head inland to get to the foot of Mamore Gap. It’s a long steep climb up to the
top. For cyclists it’s the steepest climb in Ireland. The maximum gradient is
22% and even the average is 12.4%. I
decide to walk!
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| View from Mamore Gap |
Amazing views
all the way up here and at the top of Mamore Gap there’s a small grotto and well
called Saint Colmcill’s Well (or Saint Egney’s Well.) There have been
pilgrimages to this well as far back as the 6th Century.
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| So glad to see this man at the top of Mamore Gap |
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| I wish I could lift my legs! |
I descend from Mamore Gap. I’m still looking out for
Helen and Neill (cycling Inishowen ‘100’) but I know I can’t miss them as they
have to come over the ‘Gap’ too. I try to run down the steep hill but even
that’s painful and I have to walk again. I get to the bottom of the hill at the
road junction and sit on the bridge (over the river Owenerk) and wait. Suddenly
in the distance I can hear Helen shouting ‘Gerry, Gerry’ and I spot two
cyclists coming up the road from the coast.
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| Neill and Helen at foot of Mamore Gap |
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| Sunny Donegal at Mamore |
It’s really made my day to meet them and the three of us stop for a while by the bridge in the sunshine.
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| Helen and Neill tackle Mamore Gap |
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| Sad to say goodbye to Helen & Neill |
Still
the road down towards the coast at Dunree Head was amazing with magnificent
views over the sea and across to Portsalon, with Ballymastocker Strand stretching
out and smiling in the sunshine!
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| At this stage I'm struggling to keep up with these two! |
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| Back on the Wild Atlantic Way again |
I probably ended up walking almost all of the last 10k to Buncrana. Nevertheless, I’ve been so lucky with the weather yesterday
and today and to finish I have a nice path along the beach and shore in
Buncrana.
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| So glad to see this sign! |
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| Buncrana: Means bottom of river Crana |
I’ve now conquered the whole coast of Inishowen without even getting
wet! From Derry City all the way around the Inishowen Peninsula, it’s taken me
170k (106 miles) to reach Buncrana... Now for the rest of Donegal!
Next Stages: Sat 9 June: Buncrana to Letterkenny and
Saturday 30 June: Letterkenny to Portsalon
