Stages 121-122: Co. Kerry/Co. Cork: September 2025
This is my last trip to Kerry as I’m
hoping to finally reach the Co. Cork border in these couple of days. As the
distances from my home in Bangor, Co. Down are getting longer, I’m going to
take a break now until St. Patrick’s weekend 2026 – and then tackle the coast
of Cork which I reckon could be 1,000 kilometres. I could probably do with
a winter break as my GP has told me that my ‘bloods demonstrate an iron
deficiency anaemia’. I felt something wasn’t quite right over the summer,
so it was good I got it checked out. I’ve been taking iron tablets for the last
couple of weeks and I’m eating even more broccoli, kale, spinach and eggs.
Maureen, Brian and I are staying in lovely Airbnb on Main Street, Kenmare almost next door to the Tom Crean Brewery. That should also inspire me. I mentioned the great explorer when we stayed in Anascaul, near his pub, back in May (See Stage 112)
Total distance around Ireland: 4,603km (2,860miles)
Raising funds for Special Schools - see link below
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now in the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027). I've already completed Co. Clare, Co. Limerick and Co. Kerry. From March 2026 I'm tackling the coast of Co. Cork (as per planned stages below) See also earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. In the past my run has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I raised £Stg3,688 for Clifton School and €1,730 for Rosedale in Galway. I'm going to continue this trend of supporting Special Schools in all four provinces in Ireland. (see Justgiving link below) Also, there are still signed copies of my books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon. All profits to Special Schools in Ireland.
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
I'm now taking a winter break until St. Patrick's weekend 2026. Then I'll tackle the Coast of Co. Cork, Co. Waterford and finally the province of Leinster. That'll take me in to 2027 and maybe 2028.
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| Some running on the 'Kerry Way' but trying to keep close to the coast |
‘’I have found what I sought. Ireland has extended it to me in the most delicate, in the most friendly manner’’ Charles de Gaulle
I referred to Charles de Gaulle back in September 2022 (Stage 75) when he visited Connemara in 1969 just a month after resigning as French president. During this period de Gaulle also stayed in Sneem, probably because it was close to Derrynane, the O’Connell residence. The president had a connection with Derrynane as his grandmother wrote a book about Daniel O’Connell, ‘Le liberateur de l’Irlande’.
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| The Kerry Way |
Today is another one of my clockwise, sea on the left, runs, So I’m starting in Kenmare and finishing in Sneem. My plan is to get up early, sunrise is 7.20am and begin today’s run. However, it’s a miserable wet morning and I can hear the rain banging on the Velux windows. I delay leaving the Airbnb for a while.
The rain eases off a little, so I head out the door, running along the N70 for the first 8km. I see a sign for Templenoe Pier but when I reach it there’s nothing really there, other than the wee harbour so I’m back up to the main road again. After another 800 metres I take another left turn to the shore. This time I do come to the ancient church and graveyard. Templenoe (Teampall Nuadh) means ‘The Parish of the New Church’. The name originated when a new chapel was built in the locality. The building is now in ruins and situated in the Old Templenoe Cemetery. It was constructed sometime between 1261 and 1656. So much for a new church!
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| The 'new' church at Templenoe |
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| I saw this notice outside a house in Templenoe - fighting back against 'garbage dumpers' |
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| Catching oysters on the Kenmare River (really Kenmare Bay) |
The rain finally stops as I continue trying to run along the
rocky shore at Templenoe. I spot two men picking oysters and get chatting to
them. The surface is getting soft and slippery as I slowly make my way along
the coast until I finally reach Coss Strand.
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| I took the scenic route to Coss Strand |
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| Back on the 'Kerry Way' again |
It's starting to rain again. However, on the Kerry Way in the middle of forest I feel quite protected. Despite the bad weather earlier, the surface is very pleasant to run on.
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| This is as close as I got to Dromore Castle |
Along the trail I pass a massive gate. I’m tempted to climb over and have a look as I presume it is ‘Dromore Castle’. In the distance, behind the gate, I can hear a dog barking as if he’s almost warning me to keep out.
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| Running along the shore of the Blackwater River |
I stay along the coast in the wooded area, still on the
‘Kerry Way’ and run all the way as far as ‘Lackeen Point’. Then
the path follows the river Blackwater north. It’s such a lovely route along
here, although I have to keep an eye out for tree trunks and muddy surfaces.
Finally, I’m back on the N70. Once I cross Blackwater Bridge, I take a right
turn and rejoin the Kerry Way. The rain is getting heavier now and this part of
the trail is quite slippery. I get chatting to a Dutchman along here. He’s
heading for Sneem too but unlike me he’s going to stay on the Kerry Way all the
way to the village.
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| Blackwater Bridge |
It’s still raining, and I’m reminded of the writer, Manchan Magan who wrote a book, ‘Ninety-nine Words for Rain’. He mentions all the Irish words, not just ‘baisteach’, which means wet or rain. ‘’A heavy shower is called ‘spairn’ but a sudden shower is a ‘buisteog’ or a ‘tuile shleibhe’ is an abrupt shower near a hillside’’. My favourite of his descriptions is ‘rilleadh baisti’ which is streaming rain, like oats through a riddle.
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| Bridge at Rossmore Island |
Maybe not ninety-nine different types of rain today, but at least four or five variations of wet weather. Along the ‘Kerry Way’ I pass ‘Lough Fada’ on my left-hand side and so I leave the path and get down onto the N70 again. I have to backtrack a little on the main road, but I see the turn for ‘Rossmore Island’. I’m keeping my tradition of trying to visit any islands that are accessible by a bridge or causeway. I cross the stone bridge to the island. I read that Michael Flatley was refused planning permission for a house he was trying to build here. He obviously had a love for the area as he sold a painting called ‘Rossmore Island’ in 2014 for £22,500.
I return to the mainland and to the N70. I only have to run on it for about 2km until reach Tahilla. The most famous person from this area is the Kerry footballer, John Egan. I always admired him as a skilful corner forward on the great Kerry team of the 1970’s and 80’s.
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| John Egan, Kerry Footballer |
There is now a bronze statue in memory of him in Sneem which I see later. I like the tribute that Mick O’Dwyer gave. ‘’There has never been a better inside forward. I can’t say he was the best, but I can say there was no-one better’’.
Interestingly John Egan had a son with the same name who is a
very talented soccer player. In 2018 he signed for Sheffield United for £4m, a
Club record at the time.
At Tahilla, I follow the sign for ‘Rossdohan Island’ (Oilean Ros Dochan). I reach Rossdohan Pier but there is no access to the island itself. It says ‘Private – No Entry’ which is disappointing, but I’m not surprised as it is becoming more common with people having private estates in remote area. I had read that Rossdohan is an exotic looking island – joined by an arch stone bridge, with lots of woodland. The original owners, Samuel Heard and his wife Kate Bradley sourced trees from Africa and America.
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| Rossdohan Pier |
I could have done with some shelter in those exotic trees as the rain is getting heavier now. I make my way up to the N70 again. Despite my waterproof jacket the relentless rain is seeping through. I think this causes me to miss the sign for the ‘Kerry Way’ and so I stay on the busy main road that takes me all the way to Sneem.
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| The River Sneem in the village of Sneem |
Sneem in Irish is ‘An tSnaidhm’ which means 'the knot', probably the way the village is separated into two squares each side of the bridge. My only ever memory of Sneem is years ago watching on TV a State Funeral for Irish President, Cearbhall O’Dalaigh who lived in the village in the last few years of his life.
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| Maureen & Brian meet me in Sneem |
As I arrive in Sneem, I also see the statue of Steve (the Crusher) Casey who in 1938 was crowned Heavyweight Wrestling Champion of the World and retained the title for nine years until he retired, undefeated, in 1947.
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| Steve Casey, Wrestling Champion of the World |
Sneem has had so many
inspirational people that have made their mark on the village and their statues
will continue to remind locals and tourists of their achievements. In contrast,
my entrance to the village on a wet Thursday afternoon paints a miserable
picture. However, even if I am feeling exhausted and soaked to the skin, I also
have a sense of great achievement today. The adventure continues.
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| Delighted to have completed today's stage |
Stage
121: Revisited: Kenmare town: Sheen Falls & Reenagross loops: Sunday 21
Sept: 10km or 6.2miles:
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| I decided to run further up the Kenmare River |
I didn’t run at all yesterday (Saturday) and Maureen, Brian and I enjoyed our day together in Kenmare. It’s one of the nicest towns or villages I’ve been to. Yesterday we drove to the Sheen Falls Hotel where there was a sculpture exhibition. We enjoyed a relaxing drink in the gardens of the hotel. That visit made it easier for me today and I knew exactly where I was going. I’m justifying running these loops as I can easily argue that the coast extends all the way up the Kenmare River towards Sheen.
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| Bridge at Sheen Falls |
Today on a Sunday morning at 7.30 it’s quiet as I run along the R569 out of Kenmare. After about 2k at the L4405 I take a right turn and shortly cross the river at the Roughty Bridge. I pause at the second stone bridge beside the Sheen Falls Hotel. The bridge with its stone arches was built almost 250 years old.
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| Early morning view from Sheen Falls Stone Bridge |
I carry on along this road which brings me back into Kenmare where I cross the main bridge to get back to the village. Just after crossing the river, I take a right turn, signposted, Reenagross Park. The whole wooded park was planned by Lord Lansdowne in the early 1900’s. He called it ‘Heaven on Earth’ and wrote as follows.
‘Reenagross enchanted isle, on thee bright nature seems to
smile,
Thy velvet walks and cooling shade, shall never from my memory
fade’
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| Following the coastal path at Reenagross |
Reenagross is perfect for running too (would make a great parkrun for Kenmore). I was able to follow the shore and loop back through the trees before I arrived back in the village.
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| The ancient Stone Circles in Kenmare |
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| Maureen placing a wish on the Hawthorn Tree |
Kenmare is such a thriving place and even at 8.30 on a Sunday morning I was able to get fresh coffee and home-made croissants. I recommend ‘Maison Gourmet’. I should mention too that during our time here we went to see the ‘Ancient Stone Circles’ and ‘Cromwell’s Bridge’. This bridge is not called after Oliver or Thomas Cromwell. The name is derived from ‘Croimeal’ which is the Irish word for moustache, as the bridge has a shape like a thick moustache. Yes, there is a lot to see and do in Kenmare (or Neidin as its also called) and we’ll be sad to leave it behind.
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| Cromwells Bridge- shaped like a moustache |
Stage
122: Kenmare, Co. Kerry to Ardgroom, Co. Cork: Friday 19 September 2025: 49.1km
or 30.5miles
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| Running along the coast of the Beara Peninsula |
It is very apt that I’m humming this beautiful tune as I leave Kenmare. The other traditional name for Kenmare is ‘Neidin’, which means ‘little nest’. The song was made famous by Mary Black. A more direct translation of the name Kenmare is ‘Ceann Mara’, meaning head of the sea.
I think I should give a mention to two ultra runners who came on this route recently. Both of them were running around Ireland every day with different adventures. Seanie Clifford has just finished running the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ – all 2,700km of it and he did it, running 30 days in a row. Amazing. The second runner was Vini Cardoso who was running around Ireland, visiting all the RNLI Lifeboat Stations. Vini had no support crew and carried his tent on his back for over 2,000km. He just finished his epic journey last Saturday after running 40 days in a row. Vini stayed a night in my house, and I ran with him, along the coastal path (of course) from one RNLI station in Donaghadee to another in Bangor.
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| Me and Vini in Bangor - Friday 8th August |
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| Our Lady's Bridge in Kenmare |
So yes, as I leave behind Neidin/Kenmare I cross over ‘Our
Lady’s Bridge’. This was originally a suspension bridge built in 1840. It
was Ireland’s first one but was declared unsafe in 1933, so it was replaced by
today’s bridge.
I take a right turn, signposted Ardgroom but shortly I see a sign pointing into the woods by the shore. It’s the ‘Beara Way’. Even when I leave the forest, I’m able to continue on the historic trail by following a quieter road. On my left are the hills of Mhucshnamh (356 metres) and Killaha (400 metres), covered in mist this morning.
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| Following the 'Beara Way' wooded section |
It’s my only time on the ‘Beara Way’ today as that route seems to go much further inland after Killaha. I should mention that the Beara Way follows the historic ‘O’Sullivan Beare’ trail dating back to 1603. I’ll talk more about this as I get deeper into the Beara Peninsula.
I cross the river (Abha Dhrom Ocha) and follow the flatter coastal road at Dawros. I can see more hills and mountains on my left, Derrysallagh (474metres) and further away, Cnoc na gCorrmhiolta (507 metres). I am so lucky today that I’m not following the Beara Way as I'd say it would be tough going after all that rain yesterday.
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| Looking across to Dinish Island |
On my right I spot Dinish Island which played an significant part in the Irish Civil War. In 1922 the island was taken by Anti-Treaty forces who then occupied Kenmare. The Civil War was a terrible period in Irish history and was more violent and brutal in Co. Kerry than anywhere else.
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| Causeway to Ormond's Island |
I continue on the coastal road and at Coornagillagh I run down to Ormond’s Island. I’ve heard it described as ‘a guitar-shaped island’ and I read that in 1863 a twenty-six-foot whale was spotted on the island. No sign of any creature today. I was hoping for a coffee at ‘Coorna Café’ but there’s nobody there at the booth. I suppose it’s only 9.15 on a Friday morning. It looks like I could have had a sauna too if I arrived later.
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| Sauna by the coast |
At least it is low tide so I can get across to ‘Ormond’s Island’. When I reach the island, there’s another ‘private’ type side here, so I return to the mainland and continue running.
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| Another 'No Entry' sign to an island (Ormond's) |
It’s starting to rain for the first time today. Soon I come to a sign for Tuosist or ‘Tuath O Siosta’ (territory of the O’Siosta). There is a Post Office and shop here. The only one I’ll pass on my 49km journey today, so I top up on some water.
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| The only shop I passed today |
After that I take the R573 which stays by coast - the main road, the R571 goes inland. On the OS map, this route is called ‘Lansdowne Road’ after the ‘Marquis of Lansdowne’ who had the idea of the Suspension Bridge in Kenmare.
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| Following the Coastal Road (R573) |
It’s so much quieter along here. I hardly meet any cars at all. I stop at the lovely Kilmakilloge Harbour and when I reach the pier at Bunaw the rain begins to ease off.
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| Killmakilloge Harbour |
Shortly after leaving Bunaw, I hear a car behind me. I look
around and its Maureen and Brian. More drinks and jelly-babies for me. Maureen
and Brian are on their way to visit the nearby ‘Derreen Gardens’,
that covers an area of 60 acres.
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| Bunaw Pier |
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| Visitor Attraction at Bunaw Harbour |
I carry on to Lauragh. I was expecting a wee village with a Post Office and Shop where I could stop for a coffee - but there was nothing here. I cross the river which is called ’An Oinseach’ which to me, means silly or fool. I’ve often heard a person called an ‘Oinseach’ but never a river!
I continue running on the main road towards Ardgroom. I had no intention of diverting off this route until I saw a sign, saying ‘Doorus Loop’.
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| I couldn't resist this loop - but in hindsight I should have |
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| I returned to this spot three times - lost in the woods |
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| Green Island off Dawross Loop |
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| The road along Collorus Peninsula |
I’m
struggling now but I have to keep going. I shortly come to a peninsula called
Collorus. I knew I might not be able to circle it all but nevertheless I wanted
to see how far I could get. As it happened, at the top of the peninsula there
was a ‘No Entry – Private’ sign, so I just turned around and ran
back to the main road again.
It's only another 2km before I came to a very important milestone at Glasananinnaun Bridge. An unattractive and unwelcoming looking sign says, ‘Welcome to Cork’.
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| Another milestone - the coast of Kerry completed |
So yes, I’ve now completed all of the Kerry coast. That was always the aim for 2025 and now I’ve achieved it! The Kerry/Cork border is really in the middle of nowhere, so I continue running for a few more miles until I finally reach the village of Ardgroom, Co. Cork. So delighted I’ve now reached the Rebel County. The adventure will continue next year, over St Patrick’s Weekend (March 2026).
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| Great to reach Ardgroom, Co. Cork |
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