STAGES 76-77 Co. Galway: Glynsk to Rosmuc

Stage 76

Co. Galway: Glynsk to Cill Chiarain

Saturday 29 October 2022

 31.77km or  19.74miles

 “After Mass, the rain had drained away into a tide of sunlight on which we sailed out to St MacDara’s Island and dipped our sails. Both of us smiling.” (Paul Durcan) 

We returned to Glynsk House where I finished my run the last time. I asked the manager there at the restaurant, ‘are we in North or South Connemara’. She replied, ‘ye’re in the centre of Connemara’. I’m confident that after this weekend that I will have reached deepest South Connemara which is which is full of wee sea inlets, long peninsulas, and scattered islands. The big issue today and tomorrow was trying to avoid the heavy rain blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean. It poured all morning and it’s still raining at noon as we leave Galway City. Not much visibility as we reach Maam Cross and we can only see one or two of the twelve pins. However all changes when we reach Glynsk.and it turns out to be a beautiful day. Maureen and Brian stop there for lunch, and I start my run.

Halloween at Glynsk House

There is a rich history of music and songs in this part of Connemara and the famous musician Seamus Ennis collected tunes in this area and helped revive traditional music in the 1960’s. His own speciality was the beautiful sounding, uilleann pipes and he even inspired groups like Planxty. It all started in 1942 when he was employed by the Folklore Commission to visit Connemara to collect ancient tunes. He was given ‘’a pen, some paper and pushbike’’.

Unfortunately, I don’t even have a pushbike today and I could have used one as I headed west from Glynsk along the quiet country roads. After getting some blood tests recently I’ve found out that I’m anaemic, so lately I’ve been eating a lot more foods with iron. I think it’s helping.   

At least the rain has stopped. I spotted a lovely mural on a house overlooking the island Freaghillaun. I’ve come across a few other islands called Freaghillaun (Heather Island) in Galway and Mayo in my travels. Here I got talking to Ray and his wife Jill and I told them about my adventure. Co-incidentally I also bumped into them later that night in Tigh Chadhain’s pub in Cill Chiarain.  

Following the road all the way down to Moyrus (Mairois) beach, I pass a cemetery (or Reilig in Irish).  It’s turning out to be a beautiful sunny day now with all the clouds disappearing.

Moyrus Cemetry (Reilig Mhairois)

Moyrus Beach with Iorras Beag behind

I pass a memorial dedicated to four men who were drowned in February 1921. This was the time of the ‘War of Independence’ and they were young volunteers making their way by boat to Roundstone. They perished after a violent storm around the island of Inishlacken.

Memorial to four young men drown at sea

Running along the beach I’m able to stay by the shore and follow a coastal track called ‘Luibin Mhairois’ (The Moyrus Trail). There are even stiles and markers along here which you don’t see often on the Irish coast. However, after all the rain we’ve had over the last few weeks, it is very damp and muddy on this path. There are a few large boulders and it’s hard to decide whether to clamber over the big rocks or to try to stay on the flooded grassy trail. 

Always great when I see a stile

And always reassuring when I see a 'You are here' map!

I’m really appreciating the lovely weather now and the beautiful views back towards the Maam Turks and the Beanna Beola (twelve pins). It’s a perfect afternoon in the middle of a long weekend but I still don’t meet anyone else along here.

In the distance I spot the Global Aerosol Watch station which is one of the longest running mercury recording stations in the world. The station’s position in the countryside is important, away from neighbouring towns to ensure that no pollutants interfere with recordings. I can vouch for the fact that this is indeed a very remote location.

I reach Dooyeher and I’m able to join a country road for a while as far as An Leathmhas (Halfmace) but then the boreen comes to a sudden end. I decide (in my wisdom) to rough it across a few wet fields and over some dreaded barbed wired fences as I know I can reach another lane. A Connemara pony is watching my every move and I’m trying to stay out of his territory. Along here I spot a row of deserted houses, a reminder of how previous families tried to make a living here, on the edge of the Atlantic.

These markers are guiding me along the Moyrus trail 

This whole area has a strong history of emigration and it’s interesting to point out that Marty Walsh, recent mayor of Boston has a strong connection to south Connemara. His father was from Carna and his mother was from Rosmuc. Mayor Walsh was the perfect person to open the Emigrant Commemorative Centre in Carna. Bonfires welcomed him and signs said ‘Fáilte Abhaile, Mayor Marty Walsh’

I eventually make my way across the damp fields to a harbour, Ceibh an Mhasa which is probably the nearest point to the popular St, Macdara’s island. I follow the road north and then when I reach the junction I take a right and continue back down to the other side of the harbour. Here I have a better view of Mason Island and MacDara’s island. Saint MacDara is the patron saint of fishermen and people have lived of the land and sea in this area for 1,500 years. There’s even a special saint’s day (and festival) devoted to MacDara on 16 July. Locals say St MacDara’s Day can feel like Christmas Day with so many people returning to the area. 

View of St. McDara's Island from 'Duirling na Spanneach'

I see on my OS map that there’s a road just south of Loch na gCaor and if I take this boreen I can reach another country road. However, my way is blocked by a farm gate which I climb over. I have to manoeuvre my way across a narrow river and a few more wet fields before I reach another lane. Along here I meet a man who tells me that its exactly four miles to Carna. He also scratches his head and asks how I got here!

On this crazy adventure around the Irish coast, I've referred so often to the many Spanish Armada ships that sunk in 1588. Remember, the Spanish were losing the 'Battle of Gravelands' against the British Navy and decided to take the scenic route north from the English Channel. So they sailed up the east coast of East Anglia and Northumbria, circling Scotland completely and then headed south along the west coast of Ireland. Two more of their ships went down off the Connemara coast. The 'Falco Blanco Mediano' crashed just a few miles north of here, near Freaghillaun island and the 'Cocepcion Delcano ' (or 'La Concepcion') sank here at the spot where I am now. This area is called Ards or more specifically 'Duirling na Spanneach' (rockbank of the Spaniards). Over three hundred Spanish sailors survived and Sir William Fitzwilliam, the Lord deputy of Ireland, gave orders that they be brought to Galway City to be executed. They were then taken to St Augustine's Monastery, now Forthill Cemetry. Over three young hundred Spanish sailors were then beheaded and presumably buried without any ceremony in Forthill. There is a plaque in Forthill Cemetry, near Galway City docks with inscriptions in Irish and Spanish, remembering this terrible event.

As I'm leaving 'Duirling na Spanneach' it's starting to drizzle. When I finally reach the village of Carna I stop to get water. It’s the first shop I’ve passed all day and so glad to quench my thirst. I’m in the heart of the Gaeltacht now and I tell myself to make more of an effort to speak Irish. The rest of today’s journey is straight forward as I continue east for eight kilometres on the main R340. The house we’re staying at is called Aill na Brun, just about a mile west of Cill Chiarain. Maureen and Brian are already settling in when I arrive after completing today’s adventure.

 

Stage 76 (Revisited): Co. Galway: Islands of Mweenish & Roisin na Chalaidh, Carna: Monday 31 October 2022:  13.44km or 8.35miles

 'How lucky the young man who will have her to wed, the guiding star of the morning, and a torch in the evening' Padraic Ó Flatharta from Carna

It is a miserable morning here in south Connemara. No sign of the rain stopping, and the trick is, to avoid the heavy showers. At least I’m not too ambitious with my run today. I sneak out of the house in Cill Chiarain at about 7.30 am and drive the five miles to Carna, parking my car at the big car park at Tigh Mheaic. Just as I’m ready to begin my run to the islands, the heavens open and torrential rain falls. I quickly retreat to my car and wait for it to subside. Eventually I start, following the road south towards the island of Mweenish (Maoinis).

First I have to cross a causeway to the island of Roisin na Chalaidh. It’s hard to believe that 53 people lived on this tiny island in 1841. I don’t think the causeways were built until the 1890’s so it would have been difficult for people then. Today as I approach the island it’s hard to spot any dry lands. With all the rain and floods, there is water everywhere, especially on Roisin na Chalaidh Island. It’s difficult to imagine anyone trying to make a living in this small space.

View from Mweenish Island back towards Carna

 

View from Mweenish with causeway to mainland

I keep running south and finally reach Mweenish Island. Six hundred and fifty people lived here in 1841. The islanders are famous for building 'Galway Hookers' which were used to carry turf across Connemara and even as far as the Burren in Co. Clare. 

When I arrive in Mweenish I spot a small beach on my left-hand side but first I decide to follow the road west. More torrential rain starts falling. I spot a man on the road, and he welcomes me to stand in his shed until it stops. I run to the most westerly point on the island spotting Mason Island a few hundred metres across the sea. The island has been uninhabited since 1954. The writer, Liam O’Flaherty describes the last residents to leave Mason Island who probably embarked at this spot.

 “When a frail canvas currach rode in from the Atlantic and touched ashore on the sandy beach at Mweenish, Connemara, two figures, sixty years old Patrick Cloherty and his fifty-nine years old sister, Mary, arrived in a new and strange world.”  

The ‘strange world’ they arrived on was here on Mweenish island but connected by bridge to the mainland. Patrick and Mary would at least not be depending on the roughness of the sea to make a journey from Mason Island. Both were deaf since birth and had never previously left home. I also read how previous storms had washed over Mason Island carrying away the provisions of twenty-six families. The account stated that beds and dressers were found miles away, smashed on the mainland shores.

I return to the centre of Mweenish and head to the southern corner where there is a lovely beach. I can see Finnish Island across the water. Even from a distance I spot a few of its sandy beaches. Finnish is a tidal island that can be accessed from the R340. It’s halfway between Carna and Cill Chiarain. I hope to tackle it is next year, maybe when its dryer.

 South corner of Mweenish with Finnish island behind

Mweenish - I wonder how these trees survived the strong Atlantic winds

It's a pity that I don't have the low tide today as I could have followed the shoreline on my return run to the mainland. Instead, I double back on the country road. The cows are mooing like crazy now as I run pass. In fact, all this weekend I’m hearing the loud sounds from cows, horses, donkeys and birds. Obviously farm animals not used to too many strangers around here. I finally make my way back over the two causeways to Carna, following a loop road that brings me to the village where I had parked my car.

               Stage 77 

Co. Galway: Cill Chiarain to Rosmuc

    Sunday 30 October 2022

         14.59km or 9.07miles

 Sometimes my heart hath shaken with great joy to see a leaping squirrel in a tree, or some green hill where shadows drifted by (from The Wayfarer by Padraig Pearse)

I wake about 7.00am in the house we’re staying in at Cill Chiarain. I have a vague plan today about how far I’ll run but first I’m waiting for the heavy rain to stop. I take my time, having a light breakfast and eventually at about 8.00am the weather seems to be improving and I step outside. Today I’m running along the main R340 but even after a few miles my legs are feeling the effects of yesterday’s adventure. This section is hillier than I expected, especially with the granite hills of Cnoc Mordain (Knockmorden) on my left side as I run (and sometimes walk) along the road. 

Cnoc Mordain, just north of Cill Chiarain

I decide not to gamble any more with my good fortunate of avoiding the rain this weekend and so, I make a decision to finish today’s stage at Padraig Pearse’s Cottage in Rosmuc. Also, I’m conscious that this would be an easy place for Maureen and Brian to meet me later and a well-known location to begin the next stage of the Coastal Run (probably on 11 February 2023).

I’ve been to Pearse’s Cottage a few times before. I was here with my older children twice in the last twenty years and I first visited the cottage over fifty years ago with my own parents. I’m also old enough to remember the fiftieth anniversary of the 1916 Rising and I can recall learning the Irish Proclamation off-by-heart in St Patricks Primary School in Galway City. Of course, it was Padraig Pearse who most likely composed the Proclamation. Pearse famously recited it out outside the GPO in Dublin on Easter Monday 1916 to an ‘amused and bemused audience’.

Padraig Pearse's Cottage, Rosmuc.

The Cottage itself is situated on an elevated site by Loch Oiriulach and was a summer retreat for Pearse between 1903 and 1915. He was inspired to write at the cottage, and it is accepted that he composed another famous and powerful speech here in July 1915. This was the graveside oration that Pearse gave for O’Donovan Rossa in Dublin on 1 August 1915,

Today, just beside the Cottage, there is large Cultural Centre just off the A340 at Rosmuc (Ionad Culturtha an Phiarsaigh). While waiting on Maureen and Brian to arrive I was able to enjoy the exhibition. Personally, I would not have been a great admirer of Pearse and the men of Dublin 1916. To me the real heroes of Irish Nationalism were Parnell and Davitt who campaigned for land rights especially in the west of Ireland. In fact, on the very day of the Easter Rising on Monday 24^th April 1916, my own grandfather was among a group of farmers in East Galway who were protesting about land ownership. 

So, while Pearse was reading out the Proclamation outside the GPO, my grandfather was among a team of men ‘driving cattle’ to a landlord’s home. Driving Cattle was a protest method used to highlight land ownership. My grandfather, Martin Boyle and nineteen of his neighbours were tried in court for this disturbance. After the trial, my grandfather and three of his neighbours spent nine weeks in jail. On the other hand, Padraig Pearse only had nine days in prison. He was executed (without any trial) on the 3^rd May 1916. Even I was shocked (after researching) that the executions of the 1916 leaders took place so quickly after Easter Monday (24^th April)

Pearse getting ready to speak at O'Donovan Rossa's funeral: 1st August 1915

While I was at the Visitor Centre in Connemara (just beside Pearse's Cottage) I was also able to hear Padraig Pearse’s famous speech that he gave at O’Donovan Rossa’s funeral in August 1915. It is impressive and although an actor is reciting Pearse’s words, it is very powerful to listen to. Sean T O’Kelly, a future Irish President, who was present at the funeral, stated that Pearse gave the speech without any notes. We can imagine Pearse at his cottage and around the Rosmuc countryside practicing these words. He felt privileged that he was picked to give the graveside oration for O'Donovan Rossa who was 83 years old when he died.        

 ‘that I, rather than one of the grey-haired men who were young with him and shared in his labour and in his suffering – should speak here'

In his speech Pearse then goes on to criticise the British Establishment or the Defenders of the Realm as he calls them. His words are full of emotion and he keeps building up momentum to the conclusion.

 ''The Defenders of this Realm have worked well in secret and in the open. They think that they have pacified Ireland. They think that they have purchased half of us and intimidated the other half. They think that they have foreseen everything, think that they have provided against everything; but the fools, the fools, the fools – they have left us our Fenian dead; and while Ireland holds these graves, Ireland unfree shall never be at peace.''

 It's well known that the men who occupied the GPO and other government buildings during Easter 1916 might have been easily forgotten about. Most Dubliners at the time were not impressed by the Irish rebels and when they were arrested they got little sympathy from the locals. However, after the swift executions of the men (and without any trial), public opinion began to change. Ironically Pearse’s words at O’Donovan Rossa’s funeral came back to haunt the British establishment ‘’the fools, they have left us our fenian dead’’. As time passed the dead leaders of 1916 became heroes and martyrs.