Stages 119-120: South Co. Kerry
The
distances I’m having to travel to get to my starting point are getting longer.
It’s a 584 km (363 miles) trip to reach Caherdaniel from Bangor and almost a
seven-hour journey – and that’s just one way. In reality it was more than an
eight-hour trip as we stopped twice along the way and roadworks slowed us down.
Interestingly, this time Satnav is bringing us right into Cork City, crossing
the river Lee at Blackrock and then heading west on the N40 for a couple of hours. I always like to
refer to anniversaries and as we’re driving through West Cork, I spot the sign
for ‘Beal na Blath’. I’m remembering that tomorrow 22 August will be 103 years
since Michael Collins was shot and killed, tragically by some of his own comrades.
Raising funds for Special Schools - see link below
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now in the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027). I've already completed Co. Clare & Co. Limerick and I'm tackling the coast of Co. Kerry (as per planned stages below) See also earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. In the past my run has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years and I'm continuing this trend of supporting Special Schools in all four provinces in Ireland. Also, there are still signed copies of my books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon. All profits to Special Schools in Ireland.
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle
Next Stages:
Stage 121: Thursday 18 Sept: Sneem to Kenmare (actually Kenmare to Sneem)
Stage 122: Saturday 20 Sept: Kenmare to Ardgroom (Cork/Kerry border)
Stage
119 Co. Kerry: Ballinskelligs to Caherdaniel: Friday 22 August 2025: 35.47km or
22.04miles
Yes, we’re in Daniel O’Connell country and that comment by him is such a simple observation and is especially apt today. I can only imagine how horrified he would be with all that’s going on in the world and especially with, how things have developed in Israel and Palestine. It’s exactly 250 years ago this month since the great Emancipator was born and we’re staying close to his Derrynane home. Daniel O’Connell did not just fight for Irish Catholics but also spoke out against all persecutions including those in India; he stood up for the Maori people in New Zealand, Aborigines in Australia and Jews in Europe. However, his strongest opposition was against slavery, especially in the United States. He said, ‘’of all men living, an American citizen, who is the owner of slaves, is the most despicable’’. These strong views were not popular with some of the Irish American leaders and also lost him some of the young Fenian support.
 |
| Me at the end of today's stage in Ballinskelligs |
Maureen, Brian and I are staying at the ‘Old Post Office’ in Caherdaniel, which is now an Airbnb. I’m up early, about 6.30am and running clockwise for a change with the sea on my left. The plan for today is to finish at the Cill Rialaig Arts Centre in Ballinskelligs. The name Caherdaniel actually comes from an old fort, ‘Donal’s Ringfort’ and copper ore was mined here over 4,000 years ago. With the area now known for being the home of Daniel O’Connell, it could easily be conveniently translated as ‘Daniel’s Town or City’ as Cathair is Irish for city.
 |
| Derrynane Beach |
It’s a warm morning as I follow the signs for Derrynane that leads me to the shore, passing the Blind Piper Pub, where we had a few tasty meals during the weekend. Arriving down on the coast, my first reaction was ‘what a beautiful and magical coastline’ with its green fields, white strands and all surrounded by the Kerry hills. Maureen, Brian and I did return to here on Sunday afternoon and it was even more impressive at low tide. Today I spot Abbey Island at the end of the beach and some of the cemetery headstones are clearly visible. I stay by the strand and then take a turn inland when I run out of beach. I’m following the ‘Kerry Way’ which is marked on the OS map, and it brings me down to Derrynane Pier.
 |
| Nearly missed this small arrow pointing to the 'Kerry Way' |
 |
| View from the Kerry Way path, near Derrynane Pier |
For a while I’m unsure of which way to go and begin to leave the harbour. Then I see an arrow pointing towards a path. It would have been so much easier if there had been a ‘Kerry Way’ sign here and not just a small pointer, which was difficult to spot. I follow this coastal trail that winds along the shore with spectacular views out to the twin islands of Scariff and Deenish. They seem to be covered in early morning mist and fog.
 |
| View from Kerry Way with islands of Scariff & Deenish in the distance |
Everything is perfect so far on my
run - but then it all goes horribly wrong and quite quickly too! The coastal trail
seemed to lead me down through a wooded area to a tiny beach with no exit
point. I decided to back track, but in hindsight should have looked for another
marked path. I made a terrible decision here to climb up onto a hill where the
terrain was uneven and rocky. At times like this I wish I had someone running with
me. I struggled through boulders and uneven grass for almost an hour and
eventually (that word again!) I rejoined the Kerry Way and made it onto a harbour
called ‘Ce Bheal Tra’. Already I’m exhausted and I’m probably
only about 3k from where I started a couple of hours ago.
 |
| At Bheal Tra Pier, not too far from Caherdaniel |
I follow the Kerry Way north towards the N70, but I stay on a country road, heading west. I remain on this lower road which runs parallel and south of the Ring of Kerry. The OS map marks this area as ‘Com an tSleabheain’- not sure if that refers to some kind of pass over the mountain. When I come to the end of the road, there’s a rough pathway which looks promising. I do realise that I’m taking another risk here as I head further west towards the corner of ‘Hog’s Head’ (Ceann Muice). This area seems to be called Reenearagh. and I’m heading for ‘An Rinn Iarthach’ – the most westerly point. However, I wasn’t prepared for the steep hills and the long grass which made every step difficult. I wouldn’t recommend this ‘mountain route’ to anyone!
 |
| View from the hills at Reenearagh |
My only saving grace is that it’s a warm and sunny day with
absolutely no wind or breeze. It has been such a tough journey so far today and there’s
still a long way to go. I do finally reach the road on the north side of the
mountain that I know will bring me straight to Waterville. Along this route I pass
Toor Beach ‘Tra Lobhair’, which translates as Leper beach. Maybe
it was a beach where people who suffered from various ailments frequented.
 |
| Finally reached Waterville or 'An Coirean' |
At least it’s safer to run on this quieter and lower road. When I reach Waterville, I stop at the first café which happens to be ‘Peter’s Place’. I definitely deserved my coffee and scone as I sit by the shore.
 |
| I definitely deserved my break at Waterville |
I continue running and spot a mural and then a statue of the comic actor, Charlie Chaplin. It was Walt Disney who recommended the ‘Butlers Arms Hotel’ in Waterville to Chaplin (and the surrounding area for fly fishing). Disney stayed at the hotel in 1946 when researching for the film ‘Darby O’Gill and the Little People’. Not the best film Irish ever made – the name in itself is cringingly embarrassing. Anyway, Charlie Chaplin first came here in 1959 and every year after that, until 1970 so he was obviously a true convert to the beauties of South Kerry.
 |
| Charlie Chaplin was a regular visitor to Waterville |
There are quite a few people taking pictures of Charlie but there is another statue nearby of Mick O' Dwyer who died just four months ago. O’Dwyer was a Kerry footballer who was part of a double act with the local Valentia man, Mick O’Connell. O’Dwyer became even more famous as manager of the historic Kerry team that won eight All Ireland titles in the 1970’s and 1980’s. While there are a lot of people gathering around the Charlie Chaplin figure, there’s nobody at all at the Mick O’Dwyer statue. I ask someone to take a picture of me. The man and his family are from Germany, and I explain that O’Dwyer was like the ‘Franz Beckenbauer’ of Gaelic football. They are all immediately impressed and take their own pictures of the GAA man. I wasn’t sure if they would have been interested to know, that Kerry are the new All-Ireland champions having beaten Donegal a few weeks ago.
 |
| Waterville's favourite footballer and manager |
I run along
the rocky strand for a while but then climb up onto the shore road and take the
long way around to Ballinskelligs. Satnav says it’s another 13.3k to reach my
finish line, probably longer for me as I’ll run as close to the shore as
possible. It’s a pity I can’t stay on the shore on Inny strand and cross over the
narrow river by the coastal route. It would be much shorter and the perfect run
along two long beaches. Maybe this was an option, but I wasn’t willing to risk
it, especially after all the trouble I had roughing it earlier this morning.
Maureen and Brian catch up with me in the car as I head towards Ballinskelligs. It’s still a beautiful warm day so I’m glad to get some water from them and to top up my own supply. I don’t like the traffic on the N70 (Ring of Kerry) but I’m able to leave that busy road after a while and take a left onto the R567. The sign still says 10km to Ballinskelligs – it’s been a long day! This road is quite narrow, but I soon take a left down towards the shore. The OS map calls this the ‘Emlagh Loop’.
 |
| Ballinskelligs Bay |
It’s stunning on the wide-open strand at Ballinskelligs Bay. The river Inny looks quite narrow here and I can see some golfers quite clearly across on the Waterville side. Again, I wondered if I could have taken the coastal route, rather than the road. Inny Strand or ‘Tra na hUine’ – seems to translate to ‘strand of the things’ It is definitely ‘sand for the feet of the runner’ but I’m afraid this runner is just walking now! I keep going and debate with myself if I could get onto the cliffs and reach ‘Tra na Sasanach’ (English strand) that way. I decide (wisely) to get back up onto the R567.
I only have to stay on this road for about 700 metres and then take a left at a crossroads (with a bike sign) that brings me along a wee lane called ‘Lios Lir’ that leads me all the way to Ballinskelligs. Maureen and Brian meet me there and we spend the next hour on the beach, relaxing and resting our feet in the salty water.
 |
| Finally arriving in Ballinskelligs |
 |
| Brian joins me at today's Finish Line |
 |
| Maureen & Brian, my support team on Ballinskelligs Beach |
Stage 120: Co. Kerry: Caherdaniel to Sneem: Saturday 23 August 2025: 25.55km or 15.88miles
 |
| From Caherdaniel to Sneem via Gleesk Pier and across the mountains |
I was reading about an environmental research study which proved that running by the sea offers a powerful psychological boost. I’m not at all surprised by this after all my adventures over the last eight years. Having said that, I’m not sure how today’s coastal stage will go as I’m tempted to come inland and run on the ‘Kerry Way’, along a ‘green’ road. The trail could also be called an old ‘Butter Road’ as it was along these ancient paths that farmers brought their casks of butter, by donkey and cart, to the Butter Exchange in Cork City. A journey of 150km each way.
 |
| I enjoyed these sweet blackberries along the way |
Anyway, in the end I decide to follow the N70 coastal route because I reckon it will be quieter on the Ring of Kerry at 7.00 on a Saturday morning. It turns out to be a good decision to stay on the main road as it looks quite misty up on the higher ‘Kerry Way’ route.
 |
| Kerry could do with more of these cycle/walking paths |
Not long after I leave Caherdaniel there is a cycle path that I can run on for a couple of kilometres. However, the bike lane almost tricks me into taking the L11602 which was just a lane heading down to small cove, that was a cul de sac. I continue along the 'Ring of Kerry' road. It's still only 7.40am when I reach Castle Cove or ‘An Siopa Dubh’ as its sometimes called. Old OS maps show that the village was previously called ‘Blackshop’, the direct translation.
 |
| An Siopa Dubh at Castle Cove |
About a kilometre pass Castle Cove, I pass ‘An Tra Bhain’ which is a tiny, charming and secluded beach, just off the main road. Even better, there’s a tap here to refill my water bottle. Perfect, as it is warming up now. Another beautiful morning but fog is still lingering on the mountains which worries me a little, as I know I’m going to have to cross some hills later.
 |
| Perfect place to stop at 'An Tra Bhain' |
I continue running on the N70 until I finally see the sign for Gleesk Quay. I realise now that I have a long run down to the shore. (It actually turns out to be 4k run from the main road to the pier.) I’m hoping I don’t have to come all the way back up here again. My plan, which I’ve investigated over the last few weeks, is to hike (weather permitting) across the mountains from Gleesk Pier to the village of Sneem.
 |
| It's a 4k run down to Gleesk Pier |
There are no humans down by the harbour but lots of sheep
scattered all over the headlands and around every corner, watching my every
move. Just as well that I’m not scared of sheep; only cows bother me.
 |
| Lots of sheep down at Gleesk Pier |
I had read that there was a special Coral Beach here at Gleesk. A rare geological gem and one of only two coral beaches in Ireland. The other one is near Carraroe in County Galway where I stopped on Stage 83. That beautiful Galway beach is called ‘Tra an Doilin’ and I remember being there in May 2023. Unlike all the other beaches in Ireland which are made of sand, a coral beach is made from dried and sun-bleached algae. Having said all that, I’m afraid I could not see any signs of a Coral Strand at Gleesk. Maybe it can only be spotted at low tide. I loved the quaint little pier though.
I notice a lane heading inland with a sign saying ‘Cul de Sac’. I follow it as it winds up the hill, higher and higher. When I reach the end, I climb over a gate and head for the mountains, known as the ‘Derreenavurrig Hills’. There is a long ridge of peaks that stretch from west to east. They start on the west side at the N70 at ‘Eisc na Leathog’ and the ridge extends all the way to the east, as far as Garnish Island.
 |
| Goat greets me before I climb over the mountains |
I
decide to try to cross over the ridge at the lowest point – but still 161
metres high on the OS map – through a kind of valley. I ring Maureen at this
stage to tell her where I am. The mountaineer, John Muir describes my feelings exactly as I
leave the path and ‘rough it’ over the hills.
"We are now in the mountains, and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us."
However, I’m lucky that it turned out to be a beautiful day and now the sun is shining too. I’m still climbing, and the views are spectacular. When I reach the top of the mountain I sit on a rock and reward myself with some drink and chocolate. I can now see Sneem in the distance and I can even spot the lane I’m trying to reach at ‘Inchinaleega West’ that will take me all the way into the village.
 |
| View from mountain top while crossing over to Sneem |
 |
| So pleased with myself having climbed over these hills from Gleesk Pier |
It’s still a struggle coming down the hills, but everything is so much
better than yesterday. I’m so delighted to finally reach the square at Sneem.
It’s still only 11.30am. A good day at the office.
 |
| Arriving in Sneem, Co. Kerry |
Stage 120 Co. Kerry: Revisited: Lamb’s Head Peninsula, Derrynane & Abbey Island: Sunday 24 August 2025: 14.6 km or 8.45miles
 |
| Rediscovered Meadow Path |
Those lines are actually from a 193-year-old poem written by Daniel O’Connell’s daughter, Ellen - and dedicated to her father. These verses have led to the discovery of a lost pathway near the home of Daniel O'Connell in Co Kerry. The pathway, known as 'The Meadow Walk’, has been uncovered in dense woodlands to the north of the Liberator’s house in Derrynane. The two-kilometre pathway which winds its way through the woods and along a mountain stream has revealed a number of interesting features. Maureen, Brian and I walked along this ancient path but more about that later.
Even though I ran to Ballinskelligs on Friday and to Sneem yesterday I didn’t complete the peninsula just south of Caherdaniel. I’ll call this section ‘Lamb’s Head Peninsula’, after the point at the bottom or ‘Ceann an Uain’. I’m up at sunrise again and run along the N70 SE for about 200 metres and then take a right signposted, ‘Lamb’s Head’. I follow a quiet country coastal lane to the very bottom of the peninsula. There’s a proper man-made pier here but much more attractive is the natural pier which is nestled between the cliffs.
 |
| The road to Lambs Head |
 |
| The natural pier at Lamb's Head |
My plan is to loop back along the east side of the peninsula, so I leave the harbour and climb up the hill until I reach the highest point. So far, so good but after this it is a total disaster for me, trying to struggle through long grass with no sign of any path.
 |
| Reached top of hill at Lamb's Head |
 |
| View from the top of Lamb's Head |
I would not recommend this route to anyone. From a
distance it looks like flat greenery and a rocky climbable surface, but when
you get up close the terrain is full of long grass that is sometimes soft and
boggy. I was constantly sinking in the grass the whole time and there was no path to follow. Every step was difficult,
and I was just stumbling through. Also, in the middle section I had to descend
through lots of thorn bushes and brambles. It was only a 9.5k loop around this
peninsula but it took me over two hours. My legs were destroyed with bites, scrapes
and most worrying, ticks, which took me a while later to extract. Also, disappointingly,
I didn’t even see the old WW 2 sign that I read was at the bottom of the peninsula.
Derrynane: Abbey Island & The Meadow Walk
At least it was another beautiful day, and things could only get better, and they did. Later in the morning, Maureen, Brian and I drive down to the shore. We park our car close to Derrynane House (Daniel O’Connell’s original home) and head through the grassy area towards the beach.
 |
| The Abbey on Abbey Island |
It is now low tide, and we see the whole area in all its glory. We take off our shoes and socks and walk along the shore. In the distance we can already see the cemetery on Abbey Island or ‘hOilean na Mainistreach’ (Island of the Monastery). As the tide is out, we can continue all the way along the beach to the island itself.
 |
| The view from The Abbey |
We reach the graveyard and the Abbey. It’s such a lovely setting and I had read that Mary O’Connell (wife of Daniel) is buried at the cemetery. We struggle for quite a while trying to find her grave and then realise it’s actually in a tomb inside the old Abbey Church in the middle of the cemetery.
 |
| The tomb where Mary O'Connell is buried |
.jpg) |
| Grave of Mary O'Connell (Daniel's wife) |
The abbey is now in a ruined state on the island. It was originally founded by St Finian around the 8th century. As it is the 250th anniversary of the birth of Daniel O’Connell this month, there has been a lot of talk about his wife, Mary’s grave and how its overgrown and neglected. I didn’t think it was so bad. I thought the cemetery itself had the most beautiful location on the island with the Abbey overlooking the sandy beaches. So much nicer compared to where her husband, Daniel is buried in an elaborate crypt at Glasnevin Cemetery. He asked that his heart be sent to Rome, and he got his wish, well at least the first two parts.
‘‘My
body to Ireland, my heart to Rome, my soul to Heaven’’
When he died in 1847, his heart was placed in a silver casket at St Agata dei Goti church in Rome. However, in 1927 authorities discovered it was not there anymore, and it’s still missing today!
 |
| Two headed Island - view from Abbey Island |
Back in 2025 I leave Maureen and Brian at the ancient Abbey and run south to the very bottom of the island. Unlike my experience earlier at Lamb’s Head Peninsula it’s a perfect trail all the way to the southern point of Abbey Island. From here I have great views of two other islands, ‘Two Headed Island’ and ‘Moylaun Island’. Further out west I can see two more bigger ones, Scariff and Deenish. Scariff has a hill of 252 metres. It was once inhabited by monks and there’s evidence of ancient Christian paths on the island.
 |
| Scariff and Deenish Islands - view from Abbey Island |
I return to the mainland and meet up with Maureen & Brian again. It’s still low tide so we are able to walk, bare footed again, all the way around to Derrynane Pier. Once our shoes are back on, we continue up the hill, stopping off at Keatings Bar for a drink and pizza (Brian is happy!) before heading back to Derrynane House.
 |
| Derrynane House - Home of Daniel O'Connell |
After an
interesting tour of the O’Connell home, we come back to the carpark and join the
‘Meadow Walk’ I referred to earlier. This ancient path was only discovered
recently by a local poet; Paddy Bushe and he was able to locate the trail from
the long poem that Ellen O’Connell (Daniel’s daughter) had written.
 |
| The ancient Meadow Path |
' …
where the bright golden blossoms of the furze with the dark purple of the heath
combine. With hasty step, I press the thymy turf that springs elastic neath my
foot’.
Yes, that
extract, although 200 years old, is still a lovely description of the trail. Amazing
to be able to walk this path and ramble through the whole O’Connell and Derrynane
grounds. I can imagine the discussions that took place along here with ideas
and plans that changed the course of Irish history, hopefully for the best.
Even in today’s world Daniel O’Connell would be admired. He always stood up for
and fought the case, for those less fortunate than himself.
No comments:
Post a Comment