Sunday 18 February 2018

Summer passes and one remembers one’s exuberance. Winter passes and one remembers one’s perseverance’. Yoko Ono 




Stage 13: Ballycastle to Portrush: (41k or 26miles)


<Author - Gerry O'Boyle>

Saturday 10 Feb 2018


It might be spring according to the Celtic Calendar but it still felt very cold this weekend. I must admit though I was really looking forward to today’s (Saturday’s) stage especially as I knew we are going to pass such famous and magical places along the Antrim coast.

We’re now at the top of Ireland at Ballycastle (voted by Sunday Times readers as nicest place to live in N.Ireland) and from now on we’ll be heading west with the vast Atlantic Ocean on our north/right hand side. First we travel to Portrush (today’s finish destination) and to add to our agony this weekend, we decide to first run the Portrush parkrun (along a lovely stretch of sandy beach on the East Strand). 
Neill, Helen, Gerry & Sean - 4 Coastal runners starting the Portrush parkrun.
Neill joining us for parkrun before 'resting' his legs for Armagh 5k.

Auditions for Mr February commence...
 
Enjoying coffee (reusable cups at Portrush parkrun) and cake with Bob,
who volunteered to bring us to Ballycastle #loveparkrun


It’s just the three of us today Helen, Sean and me. After we complete the parkrun we are grateful to Bob and Judith McLaughlin who drive us from Portrush to Ballycastle to begin Stage 13. Despite the forecast of showers (they’ll come later!) it’s quite a nice morning and Rathlin Island is gleaming in the sunshine across the bay as we leave Ballycastle at 11.05am.


Back where we finished stage 12 for the start of stage 13
Sean and Gerry with Bob and Judith.
We don’t normally like running on the road but we have no alternative for the first few miles (although we do get a slight off-road loop through a narrow trail just after we leave Ballycastle). Later we emerge from one of our long hill climbs to see Sheep Island sitting majestically in the blue sea with the Rope Bridge clearly visible below us. Two Californian visitors stop to ask us for directions to the ‘dark hedges’, one of the many ‘Game of Thrones’ beauty spots in this area.
Stunning scenery running along Whitepark Road

 
Looking towards Carrick-a-rede from viewpoint at Whitepark Road



Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge

Even on cold February day there are quite a few tourists here - some of them even cheer us on as we run by! The Rope-Bridge crosses from high cliffs on the Antrim coast to a tiny island. Salmon fishermen have been building bridges over to the island for over 350 years. The three of us pause in the middle of the rope bridge, trying not to look down! Fortunately for us the shaky bridge has got safer over the years (even in the 1970s it had only one handrail and large gaps between the slats.)



Sweaty palms crossing the bridge!


We leave the Rope-bridge and find a lovely grassy path from Carrick-a-rede to Ballintoy. Well it starts off grassy but soon it turns into a muddy path! Shortly we arrive in Ballintoy harbour. It’s over 20 years since I first came to magical Ballintoy (place of the axe) - such a beautiful secluded little harbour. No surprise at all that it was used for the fictional town of Lordsport in Game of Thrones.

 
Mr February auditions continue in Ballintoy Harbour

We carry on along the coastal path (still muddy!), clamber over a few rocks and eventually come to the magnificent long sandy beach at White Park Bay. Then it’s over a few more rocks until we join the coastal path at Portbradden (port of the salmon).   




Gerry and Sean running along Whitepark Bay

Gerry, Sean and Helen at Whitepark Bay



My phone rings and its Fiona Prue. Fiona and her husband Ivan are running east from the Giants Causeway towards us and hoping to meet us along the way. We always welcome extra company on our adventure.



We struggle on passing Dunseverick harbour and Dunseverick Castle (not much of the castle left but the location for the castle on the top of the cliff is spectacular!) We pass Port Moon where fishermen have harvested kelp, crabs, lobsters and salmon for centuries. Of course Sean knows this route very well having completed the Causeway Coast marathon here. Helen and I struggle to keep up with him though and have to tip-toe through the mud.

 
You can't beat the tide! We got wet feet scrambling over rocks!

Sean and Gerry at Dunseverick Harbour

Dunseverick Castle



We reach Benbane Head – the most northerly point in N.Ireland, although Malin Head in Donegal is actually further north.



The sky is getting darker and we carry along through the muddy (and hilly) coastal path. It’s beginning to feel like a long day already. Fiona rings again and tells us that they have decided to turn back as they’re also struggling through the mud. We can understand.

Literally sliding at times despite trail shoes!


We continue along headland after headland and soon the rain comes down. Although its light rain, it’s relentless and we’re beginning to feel a bit miserable by the time we arrive at a busy Giants Causeway.

 
Gerry - miles ahead!

The Organ Pipes at the Causeway

Helen, Sean and Gerry at the Giant's Causeway


We don’t delay too long at the famous Causeway as the rain gets heavier. We stop briefly at the Causeway hotel for a drink (only coke and water!). The TV is on and I notice Ireland are beating Italy 42-0. Yes it would be nice to stop here in front of a warm fire with a pint of Guinness and watch the rest of the match!


Outside the hotel we find another (muddy) coastal path which leads us alongside a narrow gauge railway. This line is for a steam train that runs from the Giants Causeway to nearby Bushmills. We continue along the coast to Port Ballintrae and stop for coffee which warms us a little (coffee would have even been nicer with a drop of Bushmills!) and then we carry on through the rain for the last few miles.


Never happier to see Dunluce Castle :) 
Helen is delighted to see the ruins of Dunluce castle at last. Apparently years ago in the castle, part of the kitchen next to the cliff face collapsed into the sea, after which the wife of the owner refused to live there any longer.


At Dunluce we also briefly meet Fiona and Ivan who encourage us along the way and inform us that Neill is running towards us to meet us for the final stretch. We can now easily see those big rocks known as the Skerries and it’s back down onto Portrush strand and the final 1.5k which was the second half of the parkrun earlier this morning. Seems like a long time ago! Its 5.00pm now; cold, wet and getting dark as we complete today’s stage. Later that night we enjoy a well-deserved meal in the famous Ramore Wine Bar. We’ve recovered well and I think we’re ready for tomorrow’s challenge! 
Helen and Gerry at parkrun - start of stage 13
Helen and Gerry at the end of stage 13!






Stage 14: Portrush to Benone: (42k or 25.7miles)


Sunday 11 Feb 2018


It’s exactly one year to the day since we left Omeath in Co. Louth (Stage One) to start this whole adventure. If we thought the weather was bad yesterday it was nothing compared to today. The snow, sleet and wind were persistent from early morning.

The good news was that we had three other brave runners joining us at 8.30am in Portrush, Neill Weir, Laura Doherty and Jim Blee. Laura and Jim live in Portrush and are training for the Manchester marathon and Neill is both an ultra runner and a 5k specialist (and everything in between! https://neillweir.wordpress.com/). Neill also became our driver later on. We couldn’t have done it today without his help.  


Sean, Neill, Helen, Jim and Laura

Running along Portrush West Strand in hail
The six of us leave the East Strand in Portrush and head west facing a cold and harsh head-wind. We follow the coast towards Portstewart town, taking the nice cliff path and arrive at Portstewart strand which has really the perfect sand for running on – not too soft and not too hard. However, there are no ‘red sails in the sunset’ today – that was the song written by Jimmy Kennedy in 1935 as he saw the yacht ‘Kitty of Coleraine’ sailing by as he walked along the beach. (At Portstewart we say goodbye to Neill - for a while anyway – but we are really glad to see him later!)


No swimmers in the Herring Pond today - Jim is a keen sea swimmer and part of the Arcadia Bathing Club (ABC)

Braving the elements as hail comes from the North on Portstewart Strand

So close we can touch it but it's another 18 miles before we actually get to Mussenden Temple!


Jim, Laura, Gerry and Sean at the Barmouth - Gerry bravely reveals the Clifton top!

River Bann

It was a tough two mile run on the strand against the sleet and snow with very little protection from the elements. At the end of the Portstewart beach we reach the River Bann and what is known as the Barmouth. The Bann really divides N.Ireland in two and here we are at the exact spot that the river flows into the sea. It seems like a short hop across to the other side at Castlerock and it would be nice if there was some kind of footbridge here to continue our adventure along the Co. Derry coast. It turns out to be a 12 mile roundtrip to get to the other side at Castlerock! 

Well earned coffee at the 10mile mark


So we head back along Portstewart beach again. At least we have the wind and sleet behind us this time! We stop briefly at Harry’s Shack, get some takeaway coffees and share one scone between us! We continue along the road into Coleraine and cross the River Bann. At the bridge we are very sad to say goodbye to Laura and Jim. They were brave to join us in such miserable conditions.

Goodbye Jim and Laura - clearly the sun has come out as Helen is squinting!


We take a right turn at Coleraine Grammar, along Ballycairn Road and another right into Cranagh Road which leads onto Ballywoollen Road. When St Patrick arrived in this neighbourhood, he was received with great honour and hospitality by the local chieftain, Nadslua. I don’t think  many of the locals even notice us as we soldier on through these quiet country roads. It’s not as cold now and I can even feel my fingers for the first time today!
Castlerock on the left, Portstewart Strand on right


The birthplace of Helen's Grandad Conn

Suddenly Helen gets all excited as we pass Ardina Road. It turns out that her grandfather came from this area and he never forgot his birthplace. When he moved to Groomsport he even called his house Ardina ‘’I spent my first days in Ardina and I’ll spent my last days in Ardina’’, he said.



We continue along Ballywoolen road until we get to Springvale Lane. We take a right turn down towards Castlerock Golf Course, crossing the railway line on our way. There are no golfers on the course today – just as well maybe, as we trample through greens and fairways. We can hear the ocean now. We cross the sand dunes onto Castlerock Strand and we have finally arrived on the other side of the Barmouth (just opposite Portstewart strand). We continue through Castlerock and as we climb the hill in the village, the rain and sleet start to come down again!    

Gerry on Castlerock Beach - Barmouth behind

Mussenden Temple ahead of us, Castlerock Beach


We shortly join a coastal path along the cliff and are glad to see the iconic Mussenden Temple in the distance. As we get closer to the Temple we notice that there’s a vast bay of water in our way! It seems we have to walk down from the cliff, tackle another muddy treacherous path, cross a bridge and climb up a steep hill on the other side. We finally arrive tired, cold and miserable at Mussenden Temple.


Very quick picture before the fingers freeze!

It’s at this point that I suggest that we could finish earlier than originally planned. Helen and Sean agree. Luckily Neill is already driving in this direction so we arrange to meet him later in Benone, only 2 miles away. It’s a long two miles to our finish line and we are so delighted to get there. It’s been a tough weekend. We’ve run 55 miles over the weekend (including parkrun) and now we’re only ONE stage away from completing the whole N.Ireland coast.  
Finish point for stage 14, starting point for stage 15 - Benone Tourist Centre



Total distance to date: 563k or 352miles  

    

Next (FINAL N.Ireland stage: Sat 10 March: Benone to Muff, Co. Donegal)

  

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Sunday 4 February 2018



‘Nothing hurts more, but is so rewarding at the same time’  Sandy Zanchi (Marathon runner)
Stage 12: Cushendall to Ballycastle (via Tor Head) (31k or 19.5miles)

  

<Author - Gerry O'Boyle>


Saturday 20 January 2018

It seems a long time ago since our previous monthly coastal run which was just before Christmas. Today was all about the snow and ice! Running through the snow in the sunshine was at times invigorating and we were able to push along on a perfect soft surface. However, the ice was another story – sometimes it was quite dangerous and we had to tip-toe our way through the treacherous spots of black ice.

As usual we started where we finished and so we continued our adventure today in 2018 in the village of Cushendall, Co. Antrim.

It was way back in primary school in Galway when I first heard the magical (and scary!) name of Cushendall as part of a short poem I learned.


Tiveragh is a fairy hill and near to Cushendall,

And nobody goes there at night, no nobody at all.


Cushendall (formerly known as Newtown Glens) is the meeting point of three of the famous Glens of Antrim. To add to the mystery and folklore, Cushendall is also supposed to be the burial place of Oisin who ran off with Niamh to Tir na Nog (land of the young) but then foolishly returned and died instantly. 

Helen, Sean and I were delighted to be joined by Helena Dornan, an experienced ultra runner (and friend of Sean’s) from North Antrim. Helena even met us in Ballycastle (our finish point) and drove us through the snow and ice back to Cushendall where we started today’s run. Thank you Helena!

Sean slides in the ice as he points to Lurig

We started today in Cushendall with snow-covered Lurigethan towering over the village. We continue along Shore Road which leads on to Layde Road to the ruins of Layde Church, dating back to 1638 and one of the main burial places of the MacDonnells.
Helena and Gerry leaving Cushendall behind

Helen and Helena at Layde Church


Layde Church ruins

Just one of the icy roads travelled

We follow the icy coast road to Cushendun and we struggle through the slippery surface. At times it was like running on Dundonald ice bowl!




Helen, Helena, Gerry and Sean

Icy roads, white fields and a couple of Coastal Runners

Cushendun

We arrive eventually in Cushendun, which is really the nearest Irish village to Scotland. In fact before the Act of Union in 1800, Cushendun had its own Customs House and Passport Office and this would have been the main entry point from Scotland. We stop and ask a lady to take a picture of the four of us in front of the statue of the goat, Johaan (the last animal to be culled in the 2001 foot and mouth epidemic).
Gerry, Helena, Johaan, Helen and Sean

We leave Cushendun and continue to hug the coast and start to climb the narrow road towards Torr Head. The views are spectacular today in the winter sunshine and snow. However, once again the icy surface slows us down. It seems like hours have passed before we eventually reach Torr Head and when we get there we climb up the steep hill to the ruins of Altagore Castle. From Torr Head there are amazing views east towards the Mull of Kintyre (and the island of Arran) and north towards Rathlin and the island of Islay. We’ve finally arrived at the top north easterly corner of Ireland.


Skis would have been handy for the downhills!
 
Admiring the views/arguing over whether we see Islay, Mull of Kintyre or Rathlin!


Mull of Kintyre



Helen, Gerry and Sean at NI's closest point to Scotland

Mull of Kintyre

Standing at Torr Head we’re only 13 miles from the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. Last week I was talking to Billy Brannigan, a North Down AC veteran, who now lives in the Mull of Kintyre and he was explaining how Paul McCartney made the place famous and also came up with the Beatle song "The Long and Winding Road". McCartney was inspired by the sight of a road "stretching up into the hills in the calm beauty in the remote highlands surroundings ’’.
Torr Head

Helena, Sean, Gerry and Helen on Torr Head - Scotland just over our right shoulders!

Looking at Fair Head (left) and Rathlin (centre)

Helena and Sean before they fell on grassy Torr Head!

Of course this side of the Irish Sea has its own calm beauty as we leave Torr Head and continue west along our own long and winding road. It seems safer now. Earlier, all four of us had fallen at some stage along the slippery surfaces. Thankfully none of us were injured and we’re still going strong. We have this narrow road all to ourselves today and a beautiful white surface to run on. It even seems warm now in the winter sunshine as we power through the soft snow.  

We soon come to the junction at Murlough Bay and the four of us stop to discuss whether we should tackle the slippery cliff tops of Fair Head or continue along the narrow road. We agree for safety reasons not to go to Murlough Bay and so we avoid the ‘Grey Mans Path’ along Fair Hill. Helena, our local guide today keeps us safe and as we get close to Ballycastle (her home town) we take a right turn down Drumaroan road which leads us down towards the beach. It’s the perfect way to approach the beautiful town of Ballycastle with Rathlin Island stretching across in the near distance.    

Smiles all round as we are on Ballycastle beach!
Total distance to date: 480k or 300miles      

P. S. - Running and Walking around Ireland

As we continue our adventure we are thinking about other people who also travelled this route. Terry Eakin of course completed the whole coast of N.Ireland in 2013 and referred to a man called David Boyd who apparently walked around the whole coast of Ireland in the 1980’s. Terry tells us that David’s ashes are scattered somewhere around Torr Head. And we’ve just heard last week about a lady called Mary Nolan Hickey who started her own epic adventure, running around Ireland (RNLI Lap the Map!).  I met Mary last week and ran with her from Donaghadee to Belfast.



Gerry with Mary Hickey at Titanic, Belfast
Next stages: Sat 10 Feb (Ballycastle to Portrush) and Sun 11 Feb (Portrush to Bellarena).  Our final N. Ireland stage is on Sat 10 March (Bellerena to Muff, Co. Donegal)


  

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