Stages 103-104 (and a pre-visit of Stage 106) Co. Kerry: Tarbert to Ballyheigue: Fri-Sun 14-16 March 2025. 111km or 69miles, over the three days.

‘Every beginning is a promise born in light and dying in dark, determination and exaltation of springtime flowering the way to work’. Brendan Kennelly

 I like that quote from the late Brendan Kennelly who lived nearby in Ballylongford. His words sum up the spring feeling I should have as I begin this weekend's adventure.

Total distance around Ireland, so far: 3,940kilometres (2,448miles)  

Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of  ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now tackling the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027) and I've already completed Co. Clare & Co. Limerick and reached Co. Kerry. I'm continuing through Kerry again during Easter (as per planned stages below) See also earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. It's now called the ''ROSEDALE & CLIFTON Coastal Run''. In the past it has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I'm now supporting a special school in Galway City, ROSEDALE Special School and dedicating all profits from my CONNACHT BOOK (recently published) to Rosedale. Also, there are still signed books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=connacht+coastal+run.

Next Stages in 2025: 

Stage 105: Good Friday 18 April: Ballyheigue to Tralee (actually from Tralee and finishing in Ballyheigue)

Stage 106: Easter Saturday 19 April: Tralee to Castlegregory

Stage 107: Easter Sunday 20 April: Stradbally/Castlegregory to Brandon Point

Stage 108: Easter Monday 21 April: Brandon Point to Murreagh

Stage 109: Thursday 24 April: Murreagh to Dunquin Point

Stage 110: Friday 25 April: Dunquin Point to Dingle

If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.

 Stage 103: Co. Kerry: Tarbert to Ballybunion: Friday 14 March 2025: 38.3km or 23.61miles

Nice to be running on sand again

I start today’s run in Tarbert, north Kerry. It’s probably best known for its ferry connection across the Shannon to Killimer, Co. Clare. That crossing would have allowed me to chop 250km of my coastal run, missing out Ennis, Shannon and all of Co. Limerick. However, I always resist the temptation to take any shortcuts, even though I also had lots of other opportunities with ferries in counties Down and Donegal.

Having said that, for today’s stage I did take the boat from Killimer to Talbert as a convenience when driving from Galway. Maureen and Brian join me for the crossing, and we catch the 12.00 noon ferry. After crossing the Shannon, I start my run from Tarbert, heading west on the quieter L1010 road.

With my son, Brian on the Killimer-Tarbert Ferry 

Just before I get to Ballylongford, I stop at Saleen Pier which apparently was a hub of activity in the 1840’s and was major trading point between Kerry, Clare and Limerick. Not much happening at the harbour in 2025. I don’t even spot any drug smugglers, even though signs are asking me ‘have you seen or heard anything suspicious’

At Saleen Harbour, Ballylongforward

No, I haven't - not much happening here!

I shortly arrive in Ballylongford where in 1921 Constable George Hewlett was shot in an IRA ambush in the village. Afterwards, there was strong retaliation from the British forces, described in the Irish Independent ‘in the history of reprisals, no place has been proportionally visited with such wholesale destruction as the prosperous little town of Ballylongford. What was once the business centre of North Kerry, the wealthiest district in the county because of its port, Saleen Harbour, is now little more than a smoking ruin’.

 

THE O'Rahilly 

Ballylongford seems to have a history of defiance and nationalism. Just a few years before this, Michael Rahilly, a native of the village, who called himself ‘The Rahilly’ was shot while leading a charge from the GPO in Dublin during the Easter Rising in 1916. 

Carrigafoyle Castle - guardian of the Shannon

In the village I run along Bridge Street and keep to the right where I follow a narrow country road that takes me all the way to Carrig Island. I cross over to the island and take a right. 

Bridge to Carrig Island

This lane on the island is called ‘Saint Senan’s Way’ and according to folklore, St Senan ordered that a road should be made from Carrig Island to Scattery Island, which is about 2.5km across the Shannon. I don't really believe that the lane would have taken me across the estuary to Scattery Island, so after about 200 metres I take a left along a trail which led me all the way to ‘Corran Point Battery’. This is one of these ugly structures built in the 1830’s as a protection against a French invasion, which never happened!

Corran Point Battery

Leaving Carrig Island by Salthouse Point

I was then able to loop back along a west trail and get back to the mainland on the SW side by Mortara Bay Beach at Salthouse Point. All in all, Carrig Island is quite a pleasant spot, and I can see why the author Brendan Kennelly was impressed.

“Listen, the island is not dead. Although debris drifts in like bits of lost mythologies.”

I come inland and join the R551 but don’t stay on the main road for very long. I take a right turn and follow a lane leading down to the Shannon with a stream on my lefthand side. I arrive on the east side of Littor Beach which after a while joins up with Beale Strand. The tide is coming in, so it is more rocky than sandy at the beginning. However, as I continue running west, it turns out to be perfect ‘sand for the feet of the runner’.  I haven’t used that phrase in a long time, and I really enjoyed this part of my run in the sunshine. I’m amazed there’s such a lovely beach here along the Shannon Estuary. 

Littor Beach on the Shannon Estuary

Back in November 1834 the weather wasn’t so pleasant as the ‘Thetis’ ship sought shelter in the bay having crossed the Atlantic from Quebec. The boat had a cargo of pine timber and was driven onto the shores here at Beale Strand. Two of the masts broke, and nine sailors drowned. The remaining crew members swam ashore and were welcomed into the homes of local people. However, when a salvage operation was carried out on the wrecked ship, it was discovered that it was carrying a cargo of contraband tobacco. The surviving crew members were then arrested and tried in Tralee for smuggling.

Beale Strand - on the Shannon Estuary

Cliffs Of Dooneen: I continue west and round the corner heading south. I now must say goodbye to the Shannon. The river and estuary have been my constant companion over the last year or so. The Shannon rises in Co. Cavan, miles away in the province of Ulster and joins the sea here. However, before I leave, I’m aware that there are famous cliffs in this area which are probably only known because of a beautiful ballad called, the ‘Cliffs of Dooneen’. The song was written by Jack McAuliffe, and I actually met a man here who pointed out the house where he lived. The definitive version is by Planxty, sung by a young Christy Moore with the haunting sound of the Uillean Pipes played by Liam O’Flynn. I notice that today, Friday 14 March is the anniversary of Liam’s death, exactly seven years ago. I also wonder is it a coincidence that Tom McCarthy, the famous Uillean piper, was actually born here in Doon in 1798. It is said that McCarthy would wander the cliffs and shore listening to all the wildlife around him and later would emulate these sounds with his uillean pipes. His life spanned three centuries as he lived until 1904.

Although it is a beautiful, well-written song, anybody who has actually seen the ‘Cliffs of Dooneen’ from this side would not be impressed. Even the local man I spoke to agreed that the cliffs were 'very underwhelming’. Actually, the best view is from across the estuary at Loop Head peninsula, near Rehy Hill. (see what I wrote in Stage 95). As for today, it’s time to move on….

‘So fare thee well to Dooneen fare thee well for a while and to all the fine people I’m leaving behind’.

Arriving at 'Nuns Beach', Ballybunion

From here I follow the quieter, but hilly, country road south towards Ballybunion. Once I reach the town, I join the cliff path pausing at ‘Nuns Beach’. There used to be a convent here and the nuns had their own private bathing area. The coastal path brings me right onto Main Street where I meet Maureen and Brian at the beautiful Kilcooleys Country House Hotel where we’re staying for one night only. 

Stage 104: Co. Kerry: Ballybunion to Ballyheigue: Saturday 15 March 2025: 47.1km or 29.2miles

Perfect weather for running along  the Atlantic coast

‘I love the pace and the way of life, the green fields dotted with sheep, the mountains, the sounds of the birds while walking...it just goes deep into my soul,’ Bernadette Bernadette Ní Riada, a Ballybunion poet.

I have sore feet this morning and I don’t need to be reminded of toes and bunions, as in the name, Ballybunion. I’m much more aware of how important my toes are since I picked up my foot injury last summer. I call my toes ‘my new best friends’ and I exercise them regularly by stretching them, moving them about and walking on my tiptoes.

In any case Ballybunion is nothing to do with big toes. The Bunyan family were historically associated with the castle. In fact, the history of the town goes back a long way, perhaps to 7000 BC. The Celts or Druids who lived here had a highly sophisticated system and were philosophers, judges, and teachers. Most of them converted to Christianity when St. Patrick arrived as their values and beliefs fitted in perfectly with the religious ethos.

Its an early start. I have a quick breakfast in the hotel at 6.30am. Delighted to be served poached eggs and toast at this hour. I begin my run at 7.06am. It’s a cool morning. Heading south, I try to run on the beach but after a while, as the tide is in quite far, I have to climb a steep hill onto Ballybunion Golf Course. I stay up at this level running on the grassy edge of the course. Surprisingly its quite frosty and slippery as I run along the grassy surface. Still, it’s a good feeling, running in the early morning sunshine by the Atlantic - and there’s not a golfer in sight.

Seamus Enright's Boat with inscription

Eventually I come to the end of the golf course and head inland to a wee car park where the River Cashin flows into the sea. It’s so peaceful here and an inscription on a boat dedicated to Seamus Enright sums it all up.

‘’The Cashen was his piece of Heaven on Earth. When you look to the river remember me’’

I follow the country roads and join the R551, and it brings me on a long winding way around the River Cashen. About 500 metres after I cross the river, I take a right and arrive down on the southern shore of the Cashen. 

Crossing the River Cashen, or is it the River Feale

The river could also be called the Feale which rises in Co. Limerick and flows through the towns of Abbeyfeale and Listowel. It’s a lovely, secluded spot here by the harbour looking across to Ballybunion Golf Course. Even when the coastal road comes to an end, I’m able to stay by the shoret and shortly reach Kilmore Beach.

On Kilmore Beach with memorial to Alfred Wheelhouse

At Kilmore Quay there’s a memorial to Alfred Wheelhouse who was an engineer on the Lusitania that was sunk by the German U20 U-boat when the Ship was off the coast of Kinsale, Co. Cork in May 1915. His body was washed up here on 24 July 2015, eleven weeks after the sinking of the ship. Interestingly, another man’s remains (Lindon Bates) from the Lusitania was also washed ashore off Island Eddy, Co. Galway just six days later on 30 July 1915. I referred to this in Stage 88. 

Memorial to Engineer who was on the Lusitania

After leaving Kilmore Beach I head inland where I join the ‘North Road’. I realise from here that it’s going to be a long run to reach Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head). I pass the townlands of Meenogahane, Dromnacarra and Castleshannon and cross though a rough trail heading north, near Glenlea which brings me onto the ‘Sli Ciarriai Thuadh’ (The North Kerry way). 

Following the North Road toward Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head)

This North Kerry way is a 48-kilometre linear route, and I join it at the most northerly point. However, I don’t stay on it for very long as I follow the coastal road west. I eventually take a trail even further west that leads to Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head), getting very close to the sea. This is well marked on the Ordnance Survey Map but there are very few signs around the area – and no other walkers, runners or cyclists at this beautiful spot.

The North Kerry Way - as far west as you can go!

It’s beautiful up here. A clear blue sky and no wind at all. Even though it’s a perfect Saturday, in St Patrick’s weekend, I have Kerry Head all to myself! Also, out here on the edge of the Atlantic there’s a kind of opening leading down to the sea called, An Clai Rua’ (track of the red ditch). It’s an ancient archaeological artifact of unknown original but thought to be thousands of years old. So, I’m standing here by the huge ocean in the footsteps of my pre-historic ancestors.

Finally reached Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head) 

I’m struggling now after my exploits of yesterday and today, but I know I don’t have too far to go. Feeling thirsty and hungry and have been topping up on gels and water. Maureen has given me one of her buns which I was saving until I reached Kerry Head. It tastes so good and gives me a boost to keep going.   

I loop around and follow the coastal road on the southern side. I did wonder about heading along a lane towards Keel Graveyard but, as it wasn’t signposted, I was hesitant in running down the hill to where I thought it might be. I had read that there is an enclosed burial ground reserved exclusively for the local Corridan Family. Tradition has it when a member of the family dies, a light shines across the Bay from Mount Brandon. 

Looking across from Kerry Head to hazy Mount Brandon

Yes, I can see Brandon across the bay. It’s 952 metres high (3,123 feet) and one of only five mountains in Ireland over 3,000 feet. I’m not sure if I’m looking forward to Easter when I’ll try to circle around the summit. Some of my friends might join me for that one. Today I continue on this country road and finally arrive at my finish point, in the beautiful coastal village of Ballyheigue. I’m exhausted but so satisfied and relieved. To crown the moment Maureen and Brian join me for the perfect picnic on the beach. Stage 104 complete.

 

Stage 106: Co. Kerry: Pre-visit: Maharees Peninsula, Castlegregory: Sunday 16 March 2025: 25.9km or 16.1miles 

The perfect coastal run - almost all on sand or grassy trail

I decided to plan a little bit ahead and take the opportunity this weekend to circle a small area on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula before we return to Kerry at Easter. It’s called ‘The Maharees’ and we’re staying two nights on the northwest side of the peninsula, near Spillane’s Pub.

View from our Airbnb in 'The Maharees' across to Mount Brandon 

What an amazing paradise this place is. Sandy beaches on both sides of the peninsula and magnificent views across to Mount Brandon. Our host, Nora meets us at the Airbnb, shows us around and leaves some tea, milk and a nice bottle of Chianti Riserva. We’ve definitely landed on our feet here.

Wee lambs say good morning to me

Before I begin I check the tides and notice that low tide is not until 12.00 noon. Therefore, I decide to run around the peninsula in a clockwise direction, with the sea on my left for a change. This is to get the benefit of the low tide when I reach the western side at Brandon Bay.

I start my run at 7.49am in Fahamore, where we’re staying, in the NW side of the Maharees. I follow the lane west into the top corner of the peninsula. When I leave the lane, I’m impressed that there’s such a lovely coastal grassy path that hugs the coast. The weather is cloudy today with the odd sunny spells but definitely no sign of any rain.

Perfect location - our Airbnb in the Maharees

I spot some of the ‘Seven Hogs’ of the north coast. These are a group of uninhabited islands and until recently some farmers would swim their cattle out to the islands at low tide (similar to Snamh Bo in Rosmuc, Connemara. See Stage 78)

The grassy path along the coast does eventually end abruptly but it was a lovely surprise to run on. I return to the point, almost to where I started earlier, but then take another lane, heading north that leads me to Scraggane Point. I have to rough it a bit to get around Scraggane Bay as its still close to high tide but then I have a pleasant run to the NE corner of the peninsula to Kilshannig. That road also comes to an end but, as I’m now on the east side of the peninsula, I just run across a field, climb a fence and reach the eastern shore. From then on, it’s a straightforward run on a grassy path or sandy shore. There is actually an official trail ‘Maharees Heritage Trail’ which is not always signposted but, if you stick to the coast, like me, you can’t go far wrong.

Anchor on the eastern shore - in memory of Pat and Tomasin Hennessy

I continue running south and eventually come to the village of Castlegregory. As this is my third day in-a-row running I stop at the Spar Shop to get some water, coffee and chocolate. I ring Maureen too and we arrange to meet later on Brandon Bay beach. Maureen and Brian will start walking south from Fahamore and I’ll be heading north from Stradbally Strand.

So, I leave Castlegregory and head west along the Stradbally Road. I can see Lough Gill on my righthand side. The lake is unusual as it's so shallow, less than one metre deep at any point. This low depth seems to suit the natterjack perfectly, and it’s one of the few places in Ireland where this toad can be found. When I reach the Church of Ireland building, I take a right along a quieter road, signposted to Stradbally Strand and soon reach the sea, near Castlegregory Golf Course. 

Church of Ireland, outside Castlegregory

At this stage its 11.00am and low tide on Brandon Bay beach – perfect. However, my three days of running are catching up on me. At least I know I can walk when I meet Maureen and Brian coming in the opposite direction. 

Brandon Bay

Sand for the feet of the horses

It’s a vast beach that seems to go on forever on both sides and its no surprise that there is a half marathon event here in July every year. It’s called the ‘Brandon Bay Run’. Definitely, 'sand for the feet of the runner'. I continue north and shortly I spot two figures in the distance and sure enough its Maureen and Brian. I’m relieved to be able to walk and soon the three of us arrive back at our Airbnb in Fahamore. So, I’ve now completed a loop of the beautiful Maharees Peninsula which I would definitely recommend to all runners! 

Running on Brandon Bay