Stages 101-102: Limerick City to Tarbert, Co. Kerry: Fri/Sat 21/22 Feb 2025. 101km (or 63miles) over the two days

Donald and me at Ringmoylan Pier

Stage 101: Limerick City to Askeaton, Co. Limerick: Friday 21 Feb 2025: 59km or 36.7 miles

‘Limerick you′re a lady, your Shannon waters tears of joy that flow. The beauty that surrounds you, I'll take it with me love, where e′er I go’ Denis Allen

We tried to keep it strictly by the coast today but it was difficult at times

I’m so glad that my friend Donald Smith is joining me to run the Co. Limerick section along the Shannon Estuary. We’re attempting to do these two stages over two days, by only availing of public transport (from Galway) and by just using our own feet. 

_{Donald and I are up at 5.15am on the Friday morning and after a light breakfast we run the one kilometre from Aideen & Kieran’s (my in-laws) house to catch the 6.22am train from Oranmore. It’s been raining all night but we’re not too wet when we get to Oranmore station. Two hours later we arrive in Limerick City to start today’s adventure. The plan is to run to Askeaton and stay the night there in the ’Top of Town’ pub and continue onto Tarbert on the Saturday morning. The challenge is to complete the whole County Limerick coast in these two days.}  

Waiting at Oranmore Station for the 6.22am train to Limerick 

_{Patrick Sarsfield}

_{The city itself plays a key role in Irish history as it was there that the ‘Treaty of Limerick’ was signed and ended the fighting in Ireland. This was only a year after the famous Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The defeat of King James II by William of Orange wasn’t as decisive as history would lead us to believe.  James’s ‘Jacobite’s’ were still able to defend the lands west of the Shannon and Patrick Sarsfield, the First Earl of Lucan played a big part in this. Sarsfield was a general in King James army and did his best to try to stop William’s invasion into Connacht. Sarsfield, unlike others, believed that Limerick could be defended, even though King William’s men were edging closer to the Shannon. Legend has it that Sarsfield (and his small Jacobite army) tricked his way into William’s Camp as they headed to Limerick. His reputation went before him and the password to get into William’s Camp was ‘Sarsfield’ and the story goes that Sarsfield himself was able to gain entry by shouting ‘‘Sarsfield’s the word and Sarsfield is the man’’} 

_{Sarsfield’s army then captured 150 wagons of ammunition, 30 cannons and other equipment. It was a moment of glory for the Jacobite army. However, it only delayed King William’s intrusion into Connacht and in July 1691 the Jacobite’s were heavily beaten in the ‘Battle of Aughrim’ in Co. Galway, reported as the bloodiest battle ever in Ireland. After the battle, Sarsfield left Ireland along with 12,000 men and their families as part of an historical episode known as ‘The Flight of the Wild Geese’. He settled in Belgium and was injured at the Battle of Landen in Belgium in 1693. As I write this blog, I have come across a recent and most amazing development. A Dr. Loic Guyon founded a ‘Sarsfield Homecoming Project’ in 2020 with the goal of finding Sarsfield’s remains which he believes are buried in a church in Huy, Belgium. In January 2025 human remains were found in a coffin in Huy and Dr. Guyon says}

‘this person would have been close to six foot tall. We’re very hopeful because of the size of this person and the robust nature of the skull and arm bones that it’s a good candidate for it to be Patrick Sarsfield”. 

_{So, watch this space to see if 332 years later, Sarsfield is still the man.} 

With Terry Wogan at 'Poor Man's Kilkee' in Limerick City

_{When our train arrives at Limerick station, it’s still raining heavily. Donald and I take a right along Parnell Street and then a left at Thomas Street. We make our way down to the river and pause at the Shannon at a place known locally as ‘Poor Mans Kilkee’. Nobody can walk or run through Limerick without thinking about the poverty described by Frank McCourt in ‘Angela’s Ashes’. I remember reading the book years ago when I was stranded at the airport. It did shorten the long wait and later shortened my flight. I was in tears when I eventually arrived at my destination!} 

At Poor Man's Kilkee with Terry Wogan

_{Even before I read the book I knew about ‘Poor Man’s Kilkee’ as I lived in Limerick in the 1980’s. There are no beaches near Limerick City and in times gone by, only those who could afford to, could make the 90km journey to Kilkee. The rest of its citizens had to invent their own version of Kilkee here in the city. Also, by the river there’s a statue of a very famous Limerick man, Terry Wogan. Donald and I pause for a picture.} 

_{We don’t delay too long though as the rain pours down – typical ‘Angela’s Ashes’ style weather.} On the very first page of Frank McCourt's excellent book, he describes the weather.

_{''Out in the Atlantic Ocean great sheets of rain gathered to drift slowly up the River Shannon and settle forever in Limerick. The rain dampened the city from the Feast of the Circumcision to New Year's Eve. It created a cacophony of hacking coughs, bronchial rattles, asthmatic wheezes, consumptive croaks''} 

Donald at Cock Rock by the Shannon Estuary

We continue through the rain, heading west on the Dock Road, going straight through two roundabouts and join the N69. After passing Mungret and the Cement Factory, we take a right. Despite the damp morning we follow a country road that converts to a trail, and we eventually find ourselves on the banks of the Shannon at a place called Cock Rock. I thought we might be able to circle a lake, called Ballindray Creek but there are farm gates to climb over and the trail looks very muddy and rough. We double back and stop at a small shop at Ballybrown or Tervoe Village. We have a great chat with the owner of the store, Martin Hayes and he fills us in on all the local history. He tells us about the Monsell family who were landowners in this area and points to a monument outside his shop erected by William Monsell in honour of his wife, Anna. For all his wealth, Monsell had a tragic life, losing two children in infancy and then his wife Anna at the age of 41. The cross at Tervoe has the inscription

_{‘On the seventh day of January, in each year, at the foot of the cross, an alms will be given to twenty widows in memory of Anna Maria Monsell, January 7th, 1855’}

The Monsell Monument at Tervoe Village, West Limerick

Martin Hayes explains to us that this tradition of giving alms to widows on the 7th of January was kept going for years and honoured until quite recently. We could keep talking to Martin all day. He also tells us about the great Ballybrown hurling team of 1990 when they hired a train to go from Limerick to Belfast to play Loughgiel, Co. Antrim in the All-Ireland Club Semi-Final. Martin Hayes leaves us with a generous donation to Rosedale and a lovely quote about his family’s performance at a bygone match in Croke Park (Jones Road).      _{‘All praises to the Hayes for the gallant pluck they showed. For the medals now they’re wearing, that they won in Jones Road’}

Crossing the River Maigue at the Ferry Bridge

_{After our long chat with Martin, we realise that not only has the rain stopped but the sun is shining. We continue running, join the N69 again, and soon reach the Maigue River (pronounced ‘mag’) crossing over what’s called, the Ferry Bridge. The river is 62km long and actually rises in Co. Cork. Interestingly the five line poem, known as a ‘Limerick’ originated in the 18th century in this area. Two local literary enthusiasts were nick-named the Maigue Poets, Sean O Tuama, who died exactly 250 years ago along with his friend Andrias MacRaith. They started writing ‘Limericks’ to each other in the form of insults. All in good humour though. When I tell Donald about this, he composes his own Limerick in honour of me, which I’m sure would have impressed the Maigue Poets.}

_{‘A Galwegian North Downer called Gerry.} 

_{Ran the coast of NI up through Derry.}

_{Did he stop at the Border?} 

_{You'll just have to order,} 

_{His books, PS now he's in Kerry} 

(not sure about the last line – also, I thought the Maigue Poets said that Limericks should insult!)

After we cross the Maigue River at the Ferry Bridge, we take a right and follow the quiet country roads in West Limerick. We eventually reach Ringmoylan Pier. It’s a beautiful day now – sunny and even feels warm. I’m thinking about what someone once said about this area, ‘glorious Ringmoylan with its bracing air’.  Across the Estuary we can see Shannon Airport and Bunratty Castle.

The bracing air at Ringmoylan Pier

_{Despite the beautiful landscape, it's been a long and tiring day for Donald and me. We’re both getting hungry so we head inland a few miles to the only village nearby. It's called Pallaskenry and we're hoping to find a café where we can rest our weary legs for a while. The village was formerly known as Newmarket, and there’s been an Agricultural College here since 1920. (Later, my brother-in-law, Kieran tells me he studied here). Even though it’s a Friday afternoon, there’s not a lot going on in Pallaskenry. It turns out that there’s no café and the only restaurant in the village is closed. We call into a supermarket instead and settle for a coffee and muffin to take way.}

Hope we don't meet the 'Children of the damned' - the scariest film I've seen!

_{We carry on running west and take a loop road all the way down to Beagh Castle on the Shannon shore. The castle was built by the Fitzgeralds as far back as the 13th century. Even before that there is evidence that it was once a Viking outpost.}

At Beagh Castle

Donald and me at Beagh Castle

_{Donald and I investigate the ruins of Beagh Castle and when we leave the harbour, we run inland a little and then follow another route to the coast, signposted Ballysteen Pier. We follow this road and then take a right turn along a trail to the harbour.} 

Out standing in my own field! (near Ballysteen Pier)

Donald takes the best pictures - near Ballysteen Pier, West Limerick

_{We were hoping we could do a circular run here along a rough beach (not exactly Kilkee) but we got a little lost. We eventually spotted a farm but when we tried to reach a farmhouse all our ways were blocked by a wide stream. After much discussion and effort, we made the decision to backtrack all the way to Ballysteen Pier. From there it was a straight run into Askeaton.} 

Great hurling support in West Limerick

_{The sun is setting but we’ve so happy to have reached our destination. I had arranged to stay at the ‘Top of Town’ Pub and when we arrived at the bar, the owner Josh Sheahan recognised us, and we got a great cheer from all the locals. Josh and his assistant, Katie really looked after Donald and me. It felt good sitting down after 59km of running, and walking. There was even a collection later in the pub for Rosedale School and I promised I would drop some books off when I’m back in March. Josh even arranged accommodation for us and refused to take any cash for our lodgings. Thank you, Top of the Town! It has to be the best pub in Co. Limerick.} 

Celebrating our arrival in 'Top of the Town', Askeaton

       

Stage 102: Askeaton Co. Limerick to Tarbert Co. Kerry: Saturday 22 Feb 2025: 42.3km or 26.3miles

O that the pines which crown yon steep, their fires might ne'er surrender! Aubrey de Vere’s poem highlighting the beauty of nature

Running close to the coast was easier today

Donald and I have a deadline to reach Tarbert, Co. Kerry by 2.45pm today as that is the time of the last bus back to Limerick City. Therefore, it’s an early start and the plan is to skip breakfast and run all the way to Foynes and have something to eat there.

_{Askeaton & the Hell Fire Club: Askeaton is said to be the oldest town in County Limerick. The name translates as Eas Geitini, which means 'the Waterfall of the Geitini (Keatings)'. The Castle was founded by William de Burgo in 1199 and became the home of the Kings of Munster. The author Aubrey de Vere is buried in the grounds of St. Mary’s Church of Ireland. The ‘Askeaton Hell Fire Club’ was a gentleman’s club in the 1700s with ‘tales of outrageous rituals and lurid activities’ to snub clerical authority during evenings of wine, women and song. Margaret Blennerhassett known as Celinda is said to have been the only woman who ever became a member of the Askeaton Hellfire Club. In her curiosity she tried to find out what the men did so she hid herself in the meeting room before they arrived. When they discovered her there, she was formally inducted as a member, to ensure her silence.}

Sunrise at Askeaton Pier

_{Donald and I start our run by following the River Deel northwards, where it flows into the sea. It looked like there was a loop trail here at the bottom of the harbour, but we had to abandon this route as it seemed to go through a farm and cows were lurking around, watching our every move! We headed back up towards Askeaton and joined the N69, heading west.} 

Strange traffic on Askeaton to Foynes road

_{The forecast looks good for today but suddenly the rain comes down. It turns out to be the only shower of the day. After about 3k we are able to join a quieter inner road, Morgans South which actually brings us along a route leading towards Aughinish Alumina. We run down here for a look at the factory before turning back again.}

With Aughinish Alumia in the background

Aughinish Alumina 'welcome' sign in three languages

_{Aughinish Alumina: I worked here as a temporary assignment in the 1980's. The factory, still in operation today, imports Bauxite from west Africa and converts it into alumina, which is the raw material for aluminium. My accounting job back then was to check expenses, make sure they were approved properly and pay them. Alcan, as it was nicknamed then is still a huge complex and is now owned by a Russian company called Rusal. The welcome sign is in Irish, English and Russian. Aughinish itself, although technically an island is not to be confused with the Co. Clare/Co. Galway Aughinish Island. (see Stage 89)}

After breakfast in the Foynes Inn

_{We come back to the N69 again and have a nice long downhill run to reach the town of Foynes. Donald & I have already covered 20k this morning on empty stomachs, so we stop at the Foynes Inn for a delicious breakfast. We needed it. Afterwards we walk up the hill passing Foynes Island (Oileán Fainge or circular island). There is another much smaller island behind Foynes Island with the Latin sounding name of Sturamus. The writer Robert Lloyd Praeger once visited this wee island. He was the author of a famous book called ‘The Way that I went’ describing his trips around Ireland. Maybe he was the original coastal runner or walker! He rubbed shoulders with Yeats and Lady Gregory in Dublin literary circles, climbed mountains, including Mount Brandon in Co Kerry in the company of George Mallory. However, to my knowledge, he never ran along the Co. Limerick coast with a Scotsman. Seriously, I really appreciate Donald’s company today.}

Running along the Shannon shore, near Foynes, Co. Limerick

_{Although our legs are getting heavy, we start running again. We arrive at a beautiful village called Loghill and decide to come inland on a quieter country road signposted Ballyhahill (L1229). The ‘Coastal Audit Committee’ allow me to sometimes run inland as long as the route is not any shorter than the coastal alternative! In any case, it’s much brighter and sunnier up here on this high-country road, almost like one of Co. Clare’s green roads.} 

On higher ground along the inland road between Loghill and Glin 

We eventually arrive in Glin. Donald and I are relieved that the sign says only 6km to Tarbert. If it was any further away, we could have considered staying the night in the village. However, that might have been expensive because back in 2018 Taylor Swift spent Christmas in Glin Castle with her partner at the time, British actor Joe Alwyn. It cost them £50,000 for just six days.

View of Glin Castle where Taylor Swift stayed

Soon we come to the best sight of the day. It’s a sign on the side of road which says, ‘Welcome to Kerry’. I’ve finally arrived in the ‘Kingdom’. 

Welcome to the 'Kingdom' of Kerry

Shortly afterwards we reach the town of Tarbert. It’s about 2.20 pm so we are on time to catch the last bus back to Limerick at 2.45pm. We even have the pleasure of listening to the Wales v Ireland rugby game on our return journey. It’s another Triple Crown win for Ireland. From Limerick City we take the 6.05pm train to Oranmore. What is unique about these two stages is that we did it all by public transport – and by using our own four feet of course.