Stages 95-97 - Co. Clare: I completed these three stages (100.3km in total) over different days in perfect weather while we were in the west of Ireland. I’ve now reached Labasheeda on the Shannon Estuary. Labasheeda is not just a beautiful sounding name, but also a pretty wee village too. It translates as ‘silky bed’ in English.

View of Rehy Hill from B&B where we stayed in in Carrigaholt 

Total distance around Ireland, so far: 3,660 kilometres (2,274 miles) 

Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once or twice a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of  ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now tackling Co. Clare and the province of MUNSTER. See earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. It's now called the ''ROSEDALE & CLIFTON Coastal Run''. In the past it has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I'm now supporting a special school in Galway City, ROSEDALE Special School and dedicating all profits from my CONNACHT BOOK (recently published) to Rosedale. ALL profits go to Rosedale. WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=connacht+coastal+run.

Next Stages (98, 99 and 100) to complete Co. Clare: Sat. 17 August: Labasheeda to Ennis (now completed but blog not yet updated!) Sat 14 Sept: Ennis to Shannon and Sat 28 Sept: Shannon to Limerick City. If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.

Stage 95 Part B: Co. Clare: Loop Head to Carrigaholt: Saturday 6 July 2024: 22.1km or 13.7miles

‘There’s a hill you know as Rehy. It lies by the Shannonside. It protects us from the wind and high tide’. Jackie Troy

Today I returned to Loop Head after an absence of nine weeks due to a stress fracture on my foot. For six of those weeks, I did absolutely no running at all so I’m not sure how it’ll go today. I was trying to be very sensible over this period but at the same time I didn’t want to rest for too long. My physio, Ryan has advised me to take it slowly and run-walk-run. It was strange to return to the Lighthouse in this corner of Co. Clare. I started my run at 1.00pm, planning to meet Maureen and Brian back at Glencarrig B&B in Carrigaholt where we’re staying for two nights. I’m hoping that those weeks of complete rest will help with my injury but at the same time, not interfere with my fitness. It’s going to be a balancing act which I hope I’ve got right.

Return to Loop Head Lighthouse

It's been a tough nine weeks, trying to stay positive. At least I had the European Athletics to distract me with gold performances by the Irish mixed 4x400 relay team and Ciara Mageen in the 1500 metres. Ciara is also from Co. Down where I now live and its always inspiring to watch her or to hear her speak. 

Looking back towards Loop Head

I leave the Lighthouse and head towards the south shore, roughing it on the soft grass which I figure is good for my foot anyway. I think I’m going to be lucky with the weather as the sun is starting to make an appearance. I stay along the grassy shore with the Shannon Estuary on my right-hand side and the mountains of Kerry visible in the distance. The grass is perfect for running on – like a deluxe carpet.

After I passed this house the terrain got very rough 

However, once I pass Dunmore Head, I’m confronted with lots of blackthorn and gorse bushes. I come inland to the A487 and run along the road all the way to Kilbaha. About 200 metres before I reach Kilbaha there is a rough trail to the right behind a farm gate. I knew this was the route to Dundahlin House which I could see in the distance. I climb over the gate and make my way to the house, which is now in ruins. 

Dundahlin House, now in ruins

Dundahlin House and the Reading Room: The house was used as a summer residence for Marcus Keane. Remember Keane was the land agent responsible for 100,000 acres in Co. Clare. He was indifferent to all the misery going on around him and unsupportive to Fr. Meehan who was looking for premises to use for celebrating Mass (see Stage 85 Part A about the ‘Little Ark of Kilbaha’). Dundahlin House was built just after the famine and later passed to Keane’s son, also called Marcus. It was destroyed by fire in September 1921 as were a lot of big houses during the War of Independence. 

And the 'Reading Room' where Marcus Keane entertained his guests after dinner

Near the big house, down by the shore is, what’s called a ‘Reading Room’. This stone tower was built very close to the cliff edge. It was mainly used by Marcus Keane and his aristocrat friends who went there to drink brandy and smoke cigars after their evening meal. Speaking of brandy, I’m feeling thirsty, but I’m satisfied with some water which I get from a a shop/pub In Kilbaha. In the background in the shop, I can see that the All-Ireland Hurling Semi-Final is on. It’s early in the first half and Clare are three points down against Kilkenny.    

The Grave of the Yellow Men

After Kilbaha I follow the coast road and shortly come to the ‘Grave of the Yellow Men’. Nine men were drowned around the 1890’s and their bodies were washed ashore. At the time nobody knew the nationalities of the dead sailors and they were nicknamed ‘the yellow men’. It’s more likely that they were French or Spanish mariners. A monument to commemorate them was erected as recently in 2010.

The nine graves of the Yellow Men

I continue along the coast road, and it comes inland to join with the L2002. At a small crossroads I take a right turn towards the coast, heading for Rehy Hill. I’ve been reading a lovely book written by a local man, Marc O’Riain and I was especially taken by a beautiful description ‘of an old, rutted lane leading up…to Rehy Hill’. Marc lived in London in the 1980’s (like a lot of Irish people, including me). He was obviously very homesick for the Loop Head Peninsula and one day he was suddenly haunted by this recollection.

‘As I turned to go back to work, a memory came, unbidden, of an old, rutted lane leading up to the meadow on the east side of Rehy Hill, lined either side with worn-looking blackthorns and whitethorns and gorse and shrivelled ash trees. Very quiet and still there. Halfway through, a clearing, where tufts of blue vetch and yellow birds-foot trefoil had climbed through the bramble and taken over. Lying on them, in the silence and the warm sunshine, were dozens of peacock butterflies, just out of their cocoons, slowly flexing their big-eyed wings. I held the memory for a moment, then let it float off down the river.’

Such a beautiful written narrative. I could have easily missed Rehy Hill if I hadn’t read this, as the hill is not marked very clearly on the OS map. However, unlike Marc I had to approach the hill from the west side. So, at a wee crossroads, I take a right turn which brings me through a farm (nobody about today as everyone watching the Clare-Kilkenny Semi-Final). As I climb up the hill cattle are coming at me from all sides. Strange how cows always run towards me, but sheep and other animals run away. I did spot some goats at the top of hill, but they scampered once they saw me. 

The top of Rehy Hill

Near the meadow on Rehy Hill by the Shannon side

I was so pleased with myself on reaching the top of Rehy Hill (116 metres high) and on the way down I arrived at the meadow that Marc referred to. At this stage I presumed it would be an easy run down the hill to reach ‘the old, rutted lane’ that Marc describes so well, but my way was blocked by so many blackthorn and gorse bushes. There was no obvious way through and it looked like the only way down was to walk through a farm that was populated by thirty or forty cattle. The cows were already looking suspiciously at me and I didn’t fancy going through their fields.

I wondered how I was going to get down from Rehy Hill and in the end I decided to try to reach the bottom by going straight down north towards the country road. However, there were so many bushes to get through. My only saving grace was that I spotted some white stick markers that seemed to indicate that there was a path ahead (or at least the remains of a path) even if it was very overgrown after this summer’s rain. I persisted climbing through the bushes, over and under some trees and gorse until eventually I did reach a trail that brought me down to the L2002. What relief. My legs and arms were completely covered in scratches and cuts, but I’m just delighted to be back in civilization again.

At last I've reached the B&B where we're staying for two nights

From here it’s just a straightforward run for a few miles along the country road which loops around Rinevilla Bay and shortly I arrive at our B&B (Glencarrig) in Rahone, just west of Carrigaholt. Maureen and Brian come out to meet me and I hear that Clare have beaten Kilkenny and have reached the All-Ireland final. So, all’s well that ends well.

Running up the last lane to meet Maureen & Brian

Return to ‘the old, rutted lane’: I was disappointed though that I didn’t reach this lane that was so well depicted by Marc O’Riain in his book ‘The Last of the Light’. Yes, I had to go back to find it! So, on the following evening, Maureen, Brian and I drove west along the coastal road from Carrigaholt. After circling around Rinevilla Bay we took a left turn down to the coast and parked our car at the bottom. 

Sunny evening on way to the old, rutted lane

Looking across to Kerry and 'Cliffs of Doneen'

It’s a beautiful clear evening and even before we start walking too far, we spot the famous ‘Cliffs of Doneen’ across the Shannon Estuary. (I hope to reach those Kerry cliffs in spring 2025). We then took a stroll along the old, rutted lane in the evening sunshine. Its every bit as magical and enchanting as Marc described it. I can easily understand how the lane’s natural beauty could have stuck in his memory and haunted him in such a powerful and lovely way.

Finally get to the rutted lane that Marc described

Stage 96: Co. Clare: Carrigaholt to Kilrush: Monday 8 July 2024: 37.1km or 23.1miles

'Dúiseacht le dúthracht le breacadh an lae' (wake with enthusiasm at the dawning of the day) Micheal O’Muircheartaigh 

At least I had a break from running yesterday and we got to visit Roisin and the Howley family in Kilfenora. Roisin is the girl who’s joined me on a few stages in Co. Clare. Kilfenora is such a lovely historic village with its medieval Cathedral built as far back as 1058. Also, on Roisin’s guided tour she told us how the Pope is the Bishop of Kilfenora under a Papal Dictate from 1883. With Clare’s great win yesterday to reach the Hurling Final we have been listening to Clare FM and hearing the beautiful song by the Kilfenora Ceili Band called ‘Clare, my heart, my home’

‘Kilfenora of the crosses, seven carved from Burren stone
Standing tall as sentinels of faith in Clare, my heart, my home’

Maureen, Brian and I stayed the night again at Glencarrig B&B (in Carrigaholt) run by Mary Aston who looked after all our needs. It was an early start for me and yes, as the late Michael O’Muircheartaigh suggested, I did wake early with enthusiasm. I had a light breakfast, helping myself to three weetabix with milk and a banana at about 5.30am. Strava tells me I started my run at 5.53am.

Saying goodbye to Rehy Hill at 6.00am

I’m now at the spot where the longest river in UK/Ireland flows into one of the world’s biggest oceans in the world. I’m leaving the Atlantic coast but entering the mouth of the River Shannon, so I do feel very small and insignificant. Running along the Shannon estuary means I’ll have the river as my constant companion for the rest of 2024 and even for the first few stages in 2025 in Limerick and Kerry.

The sun has just risen as I leave the B&B and there is a beautiful mist lingering over Rinevilla Bay on this side of Carrigaholt. I think this area is called ‘An Portach Báite’ (the drowned bog). Thousands of years ago a huge wave destroyed a forest that was here and there is still evidence of tree stubs in the vicinity. From the Guest House, I headed south first towards Kilcredaun Lighthouse. Unfortunately, there is a ‘No Admittance’ sign in front of a gate leading to it so I just do a loop around this little peninsula without getting close to the Lighthouse. The building was decommissioned in 2011 due to improvements in GPS technology.

Meeting Shona in Carrigaholt village

By the time I reach Carrigaholt I’ve already run 4k. It’s now 6.30am and very quiet in the village. I stop to take a picture and get chatting to the only person around. Her name is Shona. I tell her what I’m doing, and she says she knows a Paula Kelly that works in Rosedale Special School in Galway City (remember I’m supporting Rosedale on this run).

The sun is shining as I follow the coastal route east (L2006). This road is called 'An Bothar Uaigneach' (the lonely road) and yes I don't meet even one person along here. Although I suppose it's still only 6.45am. When I reach Doonaha village I take a right down to the coast. The OS map shows a small beach on the coast but as it is now high tide I can’t really get onto the shore. However, there is a campsite here and I’m able to run quietly through the camping grounds. Lots of caravans and tents around but everyone is still asleep. I arrive at a rocky beach and at least I can walk on the stones along the shore. I then take a slight detour inland and join up with a lane that runs parallel to the coast. I shortly arrive at an area called Querin. There is a slip of land that I could have run along here. Locally it is called ‘the island’ even though its always accessible by land on the west side, so not really an island.

Perfect early morning weather  

Impressive handball alley near Querin Pier

Querin Pier

However, because its high tide now I stay by the coast road. I run down to the pier at Querin Point and pass a handball alley which seems to somehow blend into the sunny landscape. Some of these neglected old handball alleys can look ugly in the countryside but this one is an exception. I follow a road inland up a hill and after a few kilometres I take a right turn to the shore at Cammoge Point. 

Palm trees by the Shannon

Cammoge Point Famine Disaster: I’m really glad I ran down to this pier even if it was a 3km trip down and back. Cammoge Point is the closest point across the bay and here was the scene of terrible disaster on December 12, 1849. This happened during the Great Famine, when a boat, returning from Kilrush, sank. Forty-one people drowned within a mere 30 metres of completing the journey. Some of those drown had been refused relief in Kilrush. This is a tragic story and reminds me very much of the Doolough tragedy in Mayo which happened earlier that year, in March 1849. I wrote about Doolough in Stage 68 but in some ways this tragedy here in Co. Clare was even worse. It was if lessons were not learned from the Doolough suffering only nine months earlier.

So close to Kilrush across the bay

After leaving Cammoge I follow the country roads until I cross the five-arched Blackweir Bridge. Before I reached the bridge, I was tempted to run down to the shore to check on an old railway line that ran from Kilkee to Kilrush on the south side of Poulnasherry Bay. Not only was this railway line unused, but it was also, never used because the original Kilkee-Kilrush railway line went on the north side of the bay and eventually through Moyasta. My OS map no. 63 shows both the used and unused ‘dismantled railways’. In any case once I crossed Blackweir Bridge at Poulnasherry Bay I was able to take an immediate right turn and run on a little bit of the old railway line.

Crossing Poulnasherry Bay at Blackweir Bridge

Unfortunately, after this I had to join the busy N67 road and run and walk on it for about 5k almost all the way to Kilrush. I passed through Moyasta, but it was too early for the pub to be open, which was a pity as I was so thirsty. It was 10.00am now and I haven't had anything to drink since 5.30am. About 2km before Kilrush I came to a small crossroads. I took a right turn and was able to follow a circular and much quieter route into the town. I ran all the way down to the shore to see if I could follow the old railway line, but that route was blocked by a gate with a ‘beware of the bull’ sign. 

No access to investigate the old railway line

I was totally exhausted now and ended up walking this back road (Leadmore West) into Kilrush. However, I was pleased that my foot didn’t get any worse. At the Marina in Kilrush, I was so delighted to meet Maureen and Brian. It was still only 11.30 and Maureen brought some water and a very tasty scone from Glencarrig Guest House.  At the Marina there was a van selling coffee so the three of us sat on a bench in the warm sunshine. No drinks or scone ever tasted so good!   

 Perfect finish line in sunny Kilrush

Later we visit Lahinch Beach and bathe our feet

 

Stage 97: Co. Clare: Kilrush to Labasheeda: Saturday 13 July 2024: 41.2km or 25.6miles

‘It’s just at the point where rock n roll tips over into noise, where melody turns into sonic soundscaping and where song structure becomes untethered and unruly, that you find Labasheeda’

You might wonder what this opening statement is all about. It actually refers to a Dutch rock group called ‘Labasheeda’. Apparently one of their original members had connections to the Co. Clare village so they took this name. Maybe they were related to the Dutch Vandeleurs who were the most prominent family in this area. I’m not sure if they were popular landlords in the area but one of the main throughfares in Kilrush is called Vandeleur Street and there is a beautiful garden in the grounds of the Vandeleur estate. In fact, the Kilrush/Vandeleur parkrun is where my story starts today.

Pat O'Driscoll & Gerry Coy join me at Kilrush parkrun

I decided that I would complete this section with the sea on my left for a change, so starting in Labasheeda and finishing in Kilrush. The reason for this (and for doing the parkrun too) was for logistic and practical reasons. I figured that if I ran the parkrun, I would make contact with someone who would drive me to Labasheeda afterwards and that’s exactly what happened. Also, two of my Bangor friends joined me at parkrun. Gerry and Pat had been staying in Doolin and met me for the run and we enjoyed coffee afterwards.

At Kilrush (Vandeleur) parkrun Mary and her team of volunteers were so friendly and helpful. They even found someone who volunteered to drive me to Labasheeda so I could start my run there. Her name was Michele Dillon and as we chatted in her car on the journey, I realised that she was the RTE Weather presenter.

With Michele Dillon who drove me to Labasheeda

Not only has Labasheeda got the most beautiful sounding name it is also a pretty little village on the Shannon Estuary. The name translates as ‘silky bed’ and this is where I started Stage 97.

Labasheeda village

All quiet in Labasheeda

So first I tackled the Labasheeda peninsula which is a 15k loop that brought me back to the same spot in the village. From here there are two country roads running almost parallel to each other heading SW towards Kilkerrin Point. I took the road on the southern side of the peninsula, hoping I could return on the northern side. I also thought that, on the way, I might be able to run down a trail to reach ‘Mountshannon Wood’. I did take this lane but there was a ‘No Trespassing’ sign on a farmgate, so I turned back again.

No access to Mountshannon Wood

When I eventually got to the very bottom of the peninsula, the road ended abruptly, so I had to rough it through a field before reaching the Shannon shore. I walked on the rocky coast for a while and then came inland and arrived at an old monument called ‘Kilkerrin Battery’. In the early 1800’s the British built six battery forts along the Shannon Estuary as a deterrent against a possible invasion by French forces. There is also a moat all around the fort which still looks impressive, 200 years later.

Kilkerrin Battery with moat around it

However there doesn’t seem to be great access to or from the Battery. I struggled to find a way out from here. I had to climb over a shaky wooden barrier and then scale a few more farm gates before I eventually reached the road to head north again.

Back on country road again

I shortly arrived back in the village of Labasheeda again, taking a quick detour down to the quaint little pier. A hundred years ago there was a regular service from here across the Shannon to Foynes and to Limerick City. Also, I was reading about a man called Tom Mangan, who in 1902, pedalled across the wide estuary from Glin to Labasheeda in his homemade water-cycle machine.

Labasheeda Pier

I would definitely recommend this beautiful wee village. I continue running, following the main road west (R473). 

Spotted on wall in Labasheeda: Life is better with music!

Michele, who’d given me a lift, had told me that there was a lovely coffee van when I eventually reach the shore again, at a place called Knock. Even though I was tired and struggling a little, I decided to keep going, determined to get to Knock before stopping for a break. I passed through Kilmurray McMahon and then took a left onto an even quieter road, crossing the river ‘An Crompan’ (the creek) and finally, totally drained, I did reach the pretty little harbour at Knock.

If you’ve read any of my previous blogs, you’ll know that I regularly mention the Spanish Armada as so many of their ships crashed along the west coast in 1588 due to terrible storms. The king of Spain famously commented. ‘I sent the Armada against men, not God’s winds and waves’

Co. Clare was no exception to the Armada’s difficulties, and I wrote about the disasters at Spanish Point in Stage 93. Four more large Armada ships and three small ones sailed into the Shannon Estuary and anchored by the Scattery Rocks, probably for protection against the elements. One ship, the Annunciada was damaged so badly that it was stripped and set on fire by her owners to destroy any evidence that they were there. (Remember, Fitzwilliam who was the Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1588 didn’t take too kindly to the Armada and many Spanish sailors were executed under his instructions). Thankfully, all the six remaining ships sailed from the Shannon Estuary on September 11^th and more than likely made a safe landing on the Spanish coast. Not many ships did survive the battle of Gravelines in the south of England or the Atlantic ‘winds and waves’

I'm getting closer to Knock

Anyway, back in July 2024, I'm arriving down on the Shannon shore at beautiful Knock.  Michele’s recommendation was spot on. This was the perfect place to stop at ‘Rosie’s Coffee by the Quay’ and I got chatting to Rosie herself, who supplied me with water and coffee.

Rosie looked after me in Knock

Knock Pier

Reluctantly I continued my run and shortly I come to Killimer. I’m sure people reading this are thinking why I didn’t just take the ferry across from here. I could have arrived quickly in Co. Kerry and saved myself a long run up the Shannon Estuary to Ennis, Shannon and Limerick City. However, on this coastal run, I don’t do ferries! Yes, so far on my adventure around the coast of Ireland, I resisted taking a ferry short-cut on four or five different occasions.   

Curious onlooker 

Soon I pass Moneypoint Power Station. This brought a large economic boost to the region as one of the main employers in West Clare. However, recently I did see a documentary about how coal imported from South America to Moneypoint in Kilrush is destroying a community in Colombia. What was once a fertile green area is now a massive mine. A local representative, Yalenis Medina said.

"It was all grass but... now, it’s totally dry, the grass doesn’t grow, we have the noise of the trucks, pollution, and coal dust 24 hours a day."

However, thankfully due to a governmental climate change, there is a plan to cease burning coal in Moneypoint by 2025. Hopefully this will happen.

I’m getting closer to Kilrush, but I decide to follow a coastal road over the last few miles. I take a left turn at Ballynote East. This probably added 4km to my journey but I’m glad I did take this route. From here on the shore, I can clearly see Hog Island and Scattery Island a bit further away with its beautiful round tower so visible.

Scattery Island 

Scattery Island (or Inis Cathaigh) is an ancient monastic settlement where St Senan once lived. It had five churches, a cathedral, a magnificent Round Tower, and a working Lighthouse in addition to the recently restored island street village. Today the island is uninhabited. I refer again to the notorious Keane family who had in their possession the bell shrine of St Senan from the abbey of Inis Cathaigh. In 1919 they sold St Senán's bell shrine to the National Museum for 1,250 guineas.

Hog Island

Compared to Scattery, perhaps Hog Island doesn’t have a lot to offer. Even the name doesn’t entice you to visit. However, Marc O’Riain in his book, ‘The Last of the Light’ talks lovingly of Hog Island and how ‘every year it beckons you over’ and the ‘rich, sweet scent of bluebells is everywhere’. It sounds like a round trip to both islands would be worth it.

Once I leave this coastal route, I run up to the main road again and return to Vandeleur park. It’s been a long day and its now after 5.00 pm. I was starting to worry that my car might be locked in the lower car park but thankfully it was still accessible. However, when I got there the ladies in the café were counting their day’s takings and closing up. 

Back in Vandeleur Garden

Vandeleur Garden: Perfect finish line after completing these three stages

Still, I was able to get some orange juice and crisps. I then relaxed in the pretty surroundings, embracing the afternoon sunshine in the beautiful Vandeleur Garden. Very satisfied with myself to get these three stages completed in just eight days. That’s 100.3 km or 105.3k (65 miles) if you include the parkrun I did earlier. 

Next up on Sat 17 August is Stage 98 Labasheeda to Ennis. Then Sat 14 Sept: Ennis to Shannon and finally Sat 28 Sept: Shannon to Limerick City. I'll then take a Winter break until 2025.

If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.