Total distance around Ireland so far 

4,941km (3,070miles)

Welcome to my Blog! Read my story so far below. I'm still in West Cork and here is is the plan for May 2026.

Stage 134: Friday 1 May: Ballydehob to Schull

Stage 135: Saturday 2 May: Ballydehob to Skibbereen

Stage 136: Sunday 3 May: Skibbereen to Baltimore

Stage 137: Friday 22 May: Castletownsend to Baltimore

Stage 138: Saturday23 May: Castletownsend to Glandore

Stage 139: Sunday 24 May: Glandore to Owenahincha

Easter 2026: Stages 127-133: Co. Cork – Peninsulas of Beara, Sheep’s Head & Mizen Head

Another long drive from Bangor, Co. Down to the southwest corner of the country, except this time we have more time in West Cork over the Easter break. We are staying five nights in Glengarriff and then moving onto the village of Goleen, where we have four more. With rising fuel prices, petrol shortages and road closures, I’m also concerned that we might not have enough fuel to get to Co. Cork or enough to return home again!    

As regards the weather, I’m not sure if I’m completely away from the influence of the ‘Hag of Beara’, that strange lady, now turned into a rock, who I met on the Beara Peninsula in March. She despises fine weather or any sign of spring. It is April now, but the cold, wind and rain are still with us. That reminds me too of the old Irish phrase ‘Laethanta na Bo Riabhai’ which translates as ‘the days of the brindled (striped/grey) cow’. This refers to the first few days of April where the weather could still be very cold. Traditionally country people would not leave their cows out on those days because, even though it was April, the weather would still be wintry. Speaking of cows, I had another scary experiences with my least favourite animals. I’ll talk about that later.

How it all began: Remember the crazy idea is to run around the whole coast of Ireland - and strictly by the COAST. Up to now I've achieved this by running once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of  ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now in the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027). I've already completed Co. Clare, Co. Limerick and Co. Kerry. From March 2026 I'm tackling the coast of Co. Cork (as per planned stages above) See also earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. In the past, my run has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I raised £Stg3,688 for Clifton School and €2,500 for Rosedale in Galway. I'm going to continue this trend of supporting Special Schools in all four provinces in Ireland. (see Justgiving link below) and now I'm supporting Saint Gabriels School in Cork. Also, there are still signed copies of my books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon. All profits to Special Schools in Ireland.

Raising funds for Special Schools - see link below

www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle

If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.

Read story so far (below) and/or donate to Special Schools www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/maureen-oboyle

Stage 127 Co. Cork: Glengarriff to Castletownbere: Good Friday 3 April 2026: 45.6km or 28.3miles

 ‘’And each dissolving cloud reveals new mountains as it floats away’’ From the poem, Glengarriff by Aubrey De Vere

I think I would have enjoyed the company of Aubrey De Vere (1814-1902) He was an ‘anti-tourist’, viewing travel as a physical escape from luxury and privilege and he liked to take his time.

‘For I hated the travelling that sacrifices the beautiful or the historical for the sake of speed’

It’s quiet in Glengarriff this morning where I start today’s adventure. Another ‘nice, soft day’ with the rain constantly dripping. Once again, I’m running with the sea on my left. It means I can sneak out of bed from our Airbnb without wakening Maureen and Brian. As usual I run strictly by the coast. I’m not going to follow the ‘Beara Way’ which goes inland through the hills. I loop around Glengarriff Harbour, and I spot ‘Garnish Island’ (or Ilnacullin) on my left. 

The Blue Pool in Glengarriff

Speaking of Garnish Island, I’m going to interrupt this blog to describe a beautiful trip that Maureen, Brian & I made to Garnish just two days later on Easter Sunday. The island is situated in the calmness of the bay, and the trip feels more like a river cruise, leaving from the secluded ‘Blue Pool’ in Glengarriff. 

Seals relaxing on the rocks on our way to Garnish Island

On Garnish Island: Easter Sunday 

It’s a garden island with acres of plants and trees. On the way to Garnish we saw lots of seals relaxing in the sunshine on the rocks. (Sunday’s weather was a lot better than today’s)  

Maureen on Garnish Island

So back to today, Good Friday. I leave the R572 and join a quieter road to Furkeal passing through the townland of Bocarnagh and looping around to Tracashel. I take a bit of risk here in running all the way down to Coolieragh Harbour, also called Seal Harbour. I could see on the OS map that there was a track from the pier that would bring me back to the main road. I might have crossed into private lands but it all worked out for me. 

Weather not so nice today on Good Friday

I’m back on the R572 until Derreenacarrin where I take a another left for ‘Garnish West’ and run down all the way to ‘Zetland Pier’. Zetland was even mentioned in the House of Lords in 1895. Locals wanted the pier raised because when high tides came all the turf and seaweed would be washed away. From here, through the misty rain, I spot two islands, the near one is Garnish West and out further is Sheelane Island. (I think Google Maps got them mixed up!). This Garnish Island might not be as exotic as the other Garnish, but it seems to have a lot of tall trees planted by Bernard Lovell who lived on the island. Lovell went on to develop the famous telescope at Jodrell Bank, Cheshire.

Garnish WEST Island from Zetland Pier

I leave the harbour and follow the quiet coastal road along Leahill. Time to have my regular morning banana. I pass a strange looking lake, Lough Naravy or Derrylough. Maybe it’s a reservoir. It’s all fenced off and says, ‘no swimming’. Eerie looking place. I was reading about a separate tribe a called ‘The Ranties’ who used to live in this area; not sure if they are still behind that fence. The wind is picking up now and it’s still raining. I come to ‘Tra Phraisce’ or Trafrask. I think Phraisce translates as a messy or slovenly person. I suppose it is a messy looking beach, especially on a misty day like today.

 I’m happy to be back on the main road towards Adrigole but I don’t stay on it for very long.

 

There’s a sign for the ‘O’Sullivan Mile’ and I follow it down to the shore. The route is named after the five O’Sullivan Brothers who died in the 2nd World War on the same Naval Ship while serving with the US Navy. Their ancestors came from this area and emigrated to the US. 

The O'Sullivan Ancestral Home in Trafrask, near Adrigole

The film Saving Private Ryan is based loosely on this family. In 1849 Tom & Bridget Sullivan left Trafrask. Years later, their grandson, also called Tom married Agnes Dignan and had five sons. They joined the US Navy and served on the ‘USS Juneau’ during World War II. In November 1942 their ship was torpedoed by the Japanese. All five died on that fateful day.   

 

Part of the O'Sullivan Mile Walk

Conor & Brian on the O'Sullivan Mile Walk - I came back with them on Sunday

I’m getting close to Adrigole which is one of these scattered villages that seems to go on forever and doesn’t have a proper centre. Yes, there is a pub of course but it’s much too early to be open. I come to the Post Office which thankfully does have a shop. The lady there, Gale is very friendly and she even shows me into a separate room where I can sit and enjoy a coffee and a bottle of water. Gale also makes a donation to my cause (Special Schools).   

Gale outside her Shop/Post Office in Adrigole

 I feel invigorated after my wee break and continue running. I spot ‘Hungry Hill’ or in Irish ‘Cnoc Daod’ (Jawbone Mountain) on my right. At 682 metres it’s the highest peak in this area. ‘Hungry Hill’ is the setting and title of the 1943 novel by English author Daphne du Maurier, who's probably never even seen the mountain. The story is based on the Irish ancestors of Daphne du Maurier's friend Christopher Puxley. The family owned Puxley Manor, just west of Castletownbere.

Hungry Hill before the mist dissolved

 ‘’And there would be Hungry Hill smiling under the blue sky, the mist dissolved, the gales forgotten, a continuous temptation to forget the business of the day’’ 

 And just like in the book, the mist is now dissolving, and the day is brightening up.

Yet another sea tragedy in Direeney, Adrigole

As I get close to my finish point, I decide to prolong my agony by taking a detour around ‘Dinish Island’. It is quite a small island but it doesn’t take me too long to circle it. 

On Dinish Island, just outside Castletownbere

Very soon I’m sitting in McCarthy’s Bar in Castletownbere with Maureen and Brian. Stage 127 done.   

At today's finish line: McCarthy's Bar, Castletownbere

 

 

 

Stage 128: Co. Cork: Gortnakilla Pier to Glengarriff: Easter Saturday 4 April 2026: 37.6km or 22.7miles: 

‘And I’m trying to make sense of all of it: the gulls, the lobster pots, the boats.
The sheer perfection of that muscle-mass mountain across the bay’ Bantry Bay by Rob Cowen

My son Conor joins me today. He’s flown over from Manchester to Cork Airport and, as it is Saturday, we decide to first complete the local parkrun here in the beautiful nature reserve at Glengarriff. It’s only about 1k from our Airbnb. The parkrun course winds its way through the woods, along by a river and onto a big meadow loop. One hundred and nine runners and walkers complete the 5k one lap course and before we start, I’m able to give my usual spiel about my adventure. 

It is calm this morning but the forecast for today is not so promising. Storm Dave is on its way! More about that later. The original idea was to run from here in Glengarriff to Gortnakilla Pier, but Maureen suggested that, after parkrun, she would drive myself and Conor to Gortnakilla (way down along the Sheep’s Head Peninsula). We will then run all the way back to Glengarriff. 

My son Conor at Gortnakilla Pier, Sheep's Head Peninsula

Conor and I leave Gortnakilla, running on the coast road all the way to Bantry. That is about 19km and then the plan is to have a break there at our halfway point. It’s tough going for me after yesterday’s 45k run and after this morning’s 5k parkrun. At least there is no rain yet and the wind is generally at our backs.

Remembering Creamery shops: This seems to be a tradition on Sheep's Head

As we get closer to Bantry I’m beginning to struggle with my left leg. We take a quieter but hillier road as we get closer to the town. In Bantry we arrange to meet Maureen and Brian for coffee and a scone. I hope I can get going again after my rest! 

With Conor in Bantry - our half way point

Bantry was still a very small town in 1689 when it was described by a Jacobite army officer, John Stevens as ‘a miserable poor place, hardly worth the name of a town’. It has come on a lot in the last 337 years. 

The Bay is one of the finest and safest harbours in Europe, being very deep and sheltered. Maybe Irish history would have been different if things worked out in 1796. On December 15 of that year, Bantry became the destination of a French Fleet. Forty-three ships and 15,000 men set sail from Brest in support of Ireland. Wolfe Tone, a founder member of the United Irishmen, was determined to establish an Irish Republic by armed rebellion. However, the weather was not in his favour. Storms off the Irish coast dispersed the fleet, and many were scattered in the Atlantic. On 27th January 1797, an order was given to abandon the attempted invasion. Then the remaining sea-worthy ships sailed back to France.  

With Conor and 'Brendan the Navigator' in Bantry

As we enjoy our coffee break in Bantry, we look outside and see that Storm Dave is beginning to make its presence felt. Conor and I recommence, running through the swirling rain. In our favour is the impressive Bantry footpath which goes all the way to Ballylickey, about 6km long, making it so much easier. In all my coastal runs around Ireland it is by far the longest footpath I’ve seen. However, after we run through Ballylickey the path disappears. To make matters worse Conor and I are now facing the full brunt of Storm Dave as we head west towards Glengarriff. We circle around Bantry Bay and we are even more exposed. There's still 11k to go along a busy winding road. The wind and rain are so strong that Conor and I even debate if we should ask Maureen to come and collect us. Suddenly the rain stops and the wind eases off, so we decide to keep going. My leg is ok if I run very slowly but if I stop at all, it’s painful to start again. 

Delighted to finally arrive in Glengarriff

We keep running and just as we arrive on the outskirts of Glengarriff, Storm Dave attacks us again. We arrive at the Airbnb, fully soaked to the skin but feeling a great sense of achievement.         

 

       

 

Stage 129: Co. Cork: Kilcrohane to Gortnakilla Pier: Easter Monday 6 April 2026: 31.6km or 19.6miles 

No place in all those travels could be found, to my mind’s eye, so adequately crowned, with nature’s diadems, serene, profuse, at these romantic and unrivalled views. Denis Cronin describing Sheep’s Head.

I don’t think I felt as romantic as Denis Cronin while we were running along the slippery ‘Sheep’s Head Path’. First of all, I needed to figure out a way to get to Kilcrohane, where today’s run began. Usually, Maureen and Brian will meet me at my finish line but reaching my starting point can sometimes be an issue. Our son Brian has special needs, is on medication and so he cannot rise too early in the mornings.

However, in this part of Cork, I’m privileged to be able to use the efficient local link bus service. A bus leaves Glengarriff every morning at 8.30am (seven days a week) and travels all the way to Kilcrohane on the south side of Sheep’s Head, arriving there at 9.30.

With my son, Conor

My son Conor is running with me again. Also joining me today is Conor Murphy who drives from his home in Kenmare. Remember Conor M ran with me around Dursey Island back in March. So together the three of us hop on the bus in Glengarriff at 8.30am. Conor Murphy shortens the hour-long journey by telling us about the local history.

As we pass the town of Bantry we spot ‘Whiddy Island’ out in the harbour. It is quite a big island but I get the impression that it doesn’t have the same close connection to Bantry that Bere Island has to Castletownbere. Conor Murphy explains that in the 1960s, super tankers were frequent visitors, bringing oil from Kuwait to Bantry via the Cape of Good Hope. However, tragedy struck the area on 8 January 1979 when the oil tanker ‘Betelgeuse’ exploded at the Oil Terminal, due to the failure of the ship’s structure during an operation to discharge its cargo of oil. The explosion and fire claimed the lives of 50 people (42 French nationals, 7 Irish nationals, a UK national and a Dutch diver).

Today, the bus takes us past Bantry and all the way to Kilcrohane. We start our run there in very blustery conditions. First, we follow what’s called, ‘the Funeral Path’. It’s so named because the trail goes all the way from the church to the cemetery. Shortly we’re back on the main road but we soon join the proper ‘Sheep’s Head Path’. 

Quite windy and slippery up here 

Trying not to fall on Sheep's Head Path

This part of the path is quite exposed and we’re running along a high narrow ridge which is tricky at times especially with the strong winds. Eventually we leave the path when we are only about 2k from the Sheep’s Head Lighthouse. There’s even a Café here and we’re tempted to stop but we decide to keep going. We follow the steps down to the Lighthouse at the very point of the peninsula. 

Conor Murphy & Conor O'Boyle at Sheep's Head Lighthouse

This headland is also called ‘Muntervary’, which is a strange translation of ‘Rinn Mhuintir Bhaire’, which means the headland of the Baire family. I agree with what Tim Robinson (the English man who moved to Connemara) says about these crude translations.

'Irish place names dry out when anglicised, like twigs snapped from a tree’  

After a wee break at the Lighthouse, we start running back along the north shore of the peninsula. It is calmer and flatter on this side but on the other hand, its muddier and slippery. We are now on the ‘The Poet's Way loop’ named in honour of local poets and writers, especially commemorating the 19th-century poet Denis Cronin who was born in the townland of ‘Eskeraha’ where we are now passing.  Like a lot of people in this area Cronin emigrated to New York and raised a family there. The story continues because, recently in the 1990’s, Jenny Wallace Warsen a descendant of Denis Cronin started to look for her relatives. She tried to find the place her great grandfather had immigrated from. Jenny had brought with her a 100-year-old manuscript of an epic poem that Cronin had written and hoped to be published. The poem was ‘A story of two lovers separated by Ireland’s Rebellion of 1798’. In the end in 1997 Jenny published the poem herself in her book, ‘The Chase of a Shadow’ 

The two Conors on the Sheep's Head Path

No detail behind this tragedy which happened same time as Tra Ruaim  

The two Conors and I continue roughing it along the coast. I struggle behind them. Once or twice, I slip in the mud, but no damage is done. Conor Murphy had mentioned the ‘Miner’s Cottages’ and eventually I did see this isolated cliff-top terrace of houses, now in disrepair. It was hard to believe that people tried to eke out a living in this remote area on the edge of the Atlantic. Conor M pointed out a mineshaft as we maneuverer our way along a narrow cliff. I couldn’t help feeling sorry for the families, probably with young children, who lived in these dangerous conditions. Conor said that miners had come over from Cornwall to live and work here. When I asked Conor, what became of the ancestors of these families and where did they go, he replied ‘’Bute, Montana’’. He’s right of course. As we know when the mining industry collapsed in West Cork, things were just starting to take off in Montana, and miners had a much sought-after skill.

A row of Miners Cottages

It is indeed very remote here. One of the miner’s cottages was recently restored and it’s now probably used as a shelter for hikers. For me this cottage was a milestone because it happens to be the place where I passed the 3,000-mile mark on my Irish Coastal Run.

Restored Miner's Cottage where I reached the 3,000 mile mark 

Narrow cliff path near Miners cottages

Soon we’re leaving the slippery path and running on a lane which eventually brings us onto the main road. Shortly we see Maureen and Brian in the distance beside our car. We’ve finally arrived at our finish point at Gortnakilla.   

With the two Conors - finally arrive at Gortnakilla 

 

 

Stage 130: Co. Cork: Kilcrohane to Dunmanus Castle: Tuesday 7 April 2026: 34.4km or 21.4miles

‘You have the glorious world outside to play’ From ‘The Growing Summer’ by Noel Streatfeild, who lived in Ahakiste

We could do with a glorious summer this year after all the rain we've had since the beginning of the year. It’s another windy, wet and cold day in West Cork. I get the same 8.30am bus I travelled on yesterday from Glengarriff to Kilcrohane, except today I’ll be running on my own. As it is a working day, there are about 10 or 12 people on the bus, most of them going to Bantry. After we pass Ahakiste, I am the only passenger left on the bus.

It’s raining heavily as I start my run in Kilcrohane, but I persevere along the quiet country road. My legs are suffering but I’m making good progress. 

Ahakiste Harbour on Sheep's Head Peninsula

Just outside Ahakiste I pass a memorial to an event that happened near here over 40 years ago.

Memorial of Air India Crash 

On June 23, 1985, Air India Flight 182 on a scheduled trip from Toronto to Mumbai, exploded from a bomb planted by Sikh terrorists. All 329 people on board were killed including 268 Canadian citizens, 27 British citizens, and 22 Indian citizens. The bombing was the world's deadliest act of aviation terrorism until the 9/11 attacks in 2001.

The Memorial lists all those who died in the Air India Disaster

It’s a poignant memorial especially as it lists the names of all the crew and passengers. It tells me that every life is important and every person has someone who cares about them.

Eventually I arrive in Durrus which is the village at the top of the Sheep’s Head Peninsula. I arranged to meet a Facebook friend, Jim Tobin here and he kindly takes me back to his house for a warm cup of tea and some biscuits. I needed it. A few years ago Jim completed the Sheep's Head Peninsula Challenge, all 62.85km in 13.05 hours. I also meet Jim’s mother too who kindly makes a donation to St. Gabriels.

Jim Tobin from Durrus with his mother

I then continue running along the R591 on the Mizen Head Peninsula. At one stage I did leave the main road at Kilcomane and Ballyvonane and followed a dotted trail on my OS map. I had to climb a gate here to follow the path. I persevered but then I could see horses in an open field ahead, so I decided to turn back and rejoin the main road. Better to stay safe because in the past, I’ve had two bad experiences with horses. Later, running along the main road I had another scary moment as cows started running beside me and tried to follow me onto the main road. Yes, horses and cows are not my favourite animals.

Remembering Aughadown Travelling Creamery Shop

I think I was relieved when I eventually came to the junction to take me down to Dunmanus Castle and Pier. However, the Castle itself was very disappointing with fences around it and cattle grazing around it. It’s still raining but Stage 130 now complete. 

My finish point today: Dunmanus Castle

Shortly Maureen and Brian arrive in the car, and we all make our way to the village of Goleen, which will be our new home for the next few days.                

 

 

 

 

Stage 131: Co. Cork: Goleen to Dunmanus Castle: Wednesday 8 April 2026: 18.1km or 11.2

‘Like childhood, nobody knows where West Cork begins or ends’ William Wall

I do not say this very often these days, but it seems to be a beautiful morning. After speaking to Jim Tobin who I met in Durrus yesterday I realise that I can’t really loop around Mizen Head Peninsula, like I did on Beara or Sheep’s Head. This SW part of the Mizen Peninsula is not flat enough for a coastal trail and anyway, a lot of land is in private ownership. Instead, I’m going to have to run more inland.

On this coastal run of mine, there is usually a main talking point for every different stage. Usually the main story is either about rain, wind, cold, cows, getting lost etc. Today the main tale to tell is climbing steep hills. It’s my own fault for having to take this slightly inland route. 

Barley Cove Harbour

From Goleen I take the road west until I reach Barley Cove Bay. I then follow a quieter road north at Ballyvoge Beg. This crooked route winds its way up through the hills, getting steeper and steeper. Eventually I do see the sea on my left-hand side. I’m still climbing though. The hill on my right is called ‘Knocknamaddree’ (translates as ‘hill of the dogs’ and is 313 metres high). After this I enjoy a long, long run downhill which eventually does bring me to the coast. 

It’s still a lovely day and I have clear views across Dunmanus Bay to the Sheep’s Head Peninsula. Out in the ocean I spot an island with high cliffs. I think it’s called Carbery, or it could be Furze Island.

Looking across to Sheep's Head Peninsula

It’s much flatter on this shore road and soon I arrive at Dunmanus Castle. Even in the fine weather the castle is not that impressive, so I run around to the pier and enjoy the morning sunshine.

Dunmanus Pier: Today's Finish line

Just a few minutes later Maureen and Brian arrive. We have the Dunmanus Harbour to ourselves as we sit on an old, upturned boat.

Enjoying the sunshine on Dunmanus Pier

Stage 131 Revisited: Co. Cork: Dunlough, Three Castle Head: Wednesday 8 April 2026: 5.5km or 3.4miles

 

This is a follow up to my run earlier this morning. As I said it’s difficult to loop around the Mizen Head Peninsula, so instead I do a separate extra stage up to the top of this headland. I run/walk all the way up to the car park and then meet Maureen and Brian there. We walk down to a beautiful secluded harbour, pause there for a while and then the three of us then climb over the gate and walk the rest of the way up to the three castles.

With Brian at Three Castles Harbour

Maureen & Brian start walking up towards Dunlough and the three castles

It is remote but so beautiful up here which was once the home of the O’Mahony’s. They moved to this area in the year 1207, building the three castles using dry stones and without any mortar. Amazing that the main structures still survive today. Up here, I think they felt protected with the cliffs on one side and a mountain lake on the other.

Two of the three castles - over 800 years old and still standing

 

Beautiful spot at the top of Three Castles Head

So, 819 years later, Maureen, Brian and I slowly make our way through the hills to the top. It was tough going for all of us, even for me after having done five runs in four days. It was so worth it though and today turns out to be the most beautiful day of the week, with no rain and no wind. We even had a wee picnic at the top beside the three castles and lake. An unforgettable place to visit. I’m so glad we did.    

At 'Three Castle Head' with Dunlough Lake behind

 

Stage 132: Co. Cork: Goleen to Mizen Head: Thursday 9 April 2026: 25.1km or 15.6miles 

‘One dawning morning by the beach, softened sand of Barley Cove, soothing westerly wind at my back’ Anonymous

Leaving Goleen I take the coast road south. It’s colder today and the wind is picking up. I really should have worn my gloves. At least it’s not raining…. yet. I round the bay heading in the direction of Crookhaven but decide first to run up to ‘Brow Head’. Interestingly Brow Head is actually further south than Mizen Head. l noticed this when looking at my OS map and also, my local expert, Conor Murphy confirmed this fact. The sign at the bottom at Galley Cove beach says 3k to Brow Head so that’ll be an extra 6k added to today’s mileage. Yes, it was such a steep climb, and a good excuse for me to start walking. 

A steep climb up to Brow Head

But worth it for the views over Co. Cork

High up here I spot what looks like another peninsula to the east. I thought I had covered the only three long peninsulas in West Cork, which are Beara, Sheep’s Head and now Mizen. I couldn’t figure this out until I later looked at the map and realised it wasn’t another peninsula. It was just Sherkin and Cape Clear Islands. From here it looks like these islands are connected to Baltimore on the mainland, making it seem like a long peninsula.

As I reach the top of the hill the road turns into a grassy trail and I see a farm gate at the end. A well-worn sign on the gate seems to say, ‘enter at your own risk’. I climb over the gate. There’s not much of a path on the other side, quite muddy and I see cows in the distance. That’s my prompt to turn around. So, I suppose I didn’t quite make it the very tip of Brow Head, geographically, Ireland’s most southerly point.

I’m able to run all the way down the hill and at the bottom I keep moving, with the west wind behind me, all the way to Crookhaven. Again, I run as far along this peninsula until I run out of road. Across the estuary I can see Rock Island. It looks like there are a row of cottages painted in different colours. I read that these houses faced the sea so the keepers had quick access to maritime duties which might have to be done. Two very tall and skinny signal towers also dominant Rock Island.  

View from Crookhaven across to Rock Island

I come back to Sullivan’s Pub. It’s not opened yet, but they do supply me with some coffee and water. Not much in Crosshaven this time of the morning. I suppose it is only 9.00am.

I returned later to Sullivans, Crosshaven for a Murphys (Ireland's most southerly pint!) 

Running west I’m now fighting a strong wind. Soon I come to Barley Cove beach. Unfortunately, the ‘floating walkway’ is not in place yet. This is a temporary bridge that is erected every summer and would have cut a few miles of my journey. Also, as it happens to be high tide (10.00am) so I have no alternative but to take the long way around to Mizen Head, by crossing the proper bridge over the bay.

Unfortunately the 'Floating Walkway' is not up yet

Barley Cove at high tide

The wind is getting stronger and colder now and, as Walter Macken would say, 'there’s rain on the wind’. And yes, just as I cross the bridge in the open countryside, I’m met with a strong wet wind and a shower of hailstones. That Hag of Beara who loves winter and doesn’t like to see any sign of spring, is still haunting me. I keep running (mainly to keep warm) and soon see the sign for Mizen Head, 3k at the bottom of the road, but it should surely say three miles, which is 5k. 

View of Barley Cove from Mizen Head side

It’s quite a winding road up to Ireland’s so-called southerly point. You’d think it should be down rather than up! Lovely views though across to Barley Cove on my left and Mizen Head Peak (232m) on my right.

View of Barley Cove as I make my way up to Mizen Head

It’s perfect timing when I get to the top as Maureen and Brian are just arriving. 

Finally at the top - or really the bottom of Ireland

The wind has picked up but the three of us decide to make our way to the very end of the peninsula. We’re walking along the edge of cliff in gale force winds which would be extremely dangerous if there wasn’t a strong fence protecting us on both sides. 

Maureen & Brian join me and we cross over bridge to Mizen Head Island

Bridge at Mizen Head

We cross a bridge onto what is really a separate island. Out in the rough ocean in the distance, we can see the famous Fastnet Lighthouse, known as the ‘Teardrop of Ireland’ as it was the last sight of Ireland, that emigrants would see. 

We reach the end of our extra walk and the sign says, ‘Latitude 51.27 degrees north’. Yes, we are a wee bit closer to the equator, and I cannot possibly go any more south - so I stop my watch to record today’s adventure. Stage 132 completed. 

At the most southern point of Ireland

 

 

Stage 133: Co. Cork: Goleen to Schull: Friday 10 April 2026: 22.7km or 14.1miles

‘I love the seaside town of Schull on the bay of islands’ Timmy Mallett

The forecast for today is not very good at all; more rain and wind. The weather people have got it spot on and it does turn out to be a miserable morning. This is now my seventh run in eight days so I’m beginning to feel it in the legs.

Saying goodbye to Goleen

From Goleen Village I head east and do my best to keep moving, especially over the first 10k as it is along a main road (R592). I figure the quicker I get onto the quieter lanes the better. Also, running keeps my body warmer. Although I’m wearing my waterproof jacket, I am still getting wet. As I circle around Toormore Bay, I pass a place, strangely named as ‘Altar’. There is an ancient megalithic tomb here and locals have realised that the burial chamber is orientated towards Mizen Head. Also, it is laid out in a special way so that bodies would face the rising sun. This is an ancient custom which carried on in rural Ireland into the 20^th and probably 21^st century. It was recently highlighted in John McGahern’s novel set in Co. Leitrim, where lots of country habits and the burial ritual are still so important. The title of the book refers to that very custom about preparing a dead person for burial. It's called  ‘That They May Face the Rising Sun’ 

I loop around the coast and shortly take a right turn towards Cove, following a cycling sign. So much nicer to be on a quieter road even on a miserable day like today. My left leg is causing me a lot of pain as seven days of running are catching up on me. From here I had planned to make it down to the end of another peninsula at Ballybrack and Gun Point but really, I don’t have the energy. Also, the rain is still coming down with a swirling wind, and my hands are getting cold. I continue and loop around Croagh River/Bay and eventually arrive down at Colla Harbour.

I’m looking out at a very long island that stretches right across the channel. You could nearly guess the name of it. Yes it’s called ‘Long Island’ or ‘Inis Fada’. There’s a lighthouse at its eastern tip, Copper Point, which has, since 1865, guided boats into Schull Harbour. It sounds like Long Island has a connection to Kansas because a lot of the islanders emigrated to that state. Also, I read that the island was a major pirate base of the 17th century 'alliance of piracy' in the North Atlantic. Today the weather is even too bad for pirates to be out.

At least it is a straightforward run along the coast from Colla Harbour to my finish point in Schull. Soaked to the skin I find the perfect place to warm up and dry out. It’s called ‘Amar’s Café’. They do excellent coffee and scones, and I’m already looking forward to coming back again after my next run on Friday 1^st of May.