Stages 103-104 (and a pre-visit of Stage 106) Co. Kerry: Tarbert to Ballyheigue: Fri-Sun 14-16 March 2025. 111km or 69miles, over the three days.

‘Every beginning is a promise born in light and dying in dark, determination and exaltation of springtime flowering the way to work’. Brendan Kennelly

 I like that quote from the late Brendan Kennelly who lived nearby in Ballylongford. His words sum up the spring feeling I should have as I begin this weekend's adventure.

Total distance around Ireland, so far: 3,940kilometres (2,448miles)  

Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once/twice/three-times a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of  ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now tackling the province of MUNSTER (2024-2027) and I've already completed Co. Clare & Co. Limerick and reached Co. Kerry. I'm continuing through Kerry again during Easter (as per planned stages below) See also earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. It's now called the ''ROSEDALE & CLIFTON Coastal Run''. In the past it has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I'm now supporting a special school in Galway City, ROSEDALE Special School and dedicating all profits from my CONNACHT BOOK (recently published) to Rosedale. Also, there are still signed books available in Charlie Byrnes in Galway City or you can get a book, directly from me (where I live) in the Bangor/North Down/Ards area (free delivery). WhatsApp me on 00-44-(0) 7725613308 for more details or buy book through Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=connacht+coastal+run.

Next Stages in 2025: 

Stage 105: Good Friday 18 April: Ballyheigue to Tralee (actually from Tralee and finishing in Ballyheigue)

Stage 106: Easter Saturday 19 April: Tralee to Castlegregory

Stage 107: Easter Sunday 20 April: Stradbally/Castlegregory to Brandon Point

Stage 108: Easter Monday 21 April: Brandon Point to Murreagh

Stage 109: Thursday 24 April: Murreagh to Dunquin Point

Stage 110: Friday 25 April: Dunquin Point to Dingle

If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.

 Stage 103: Co. Kerry: Tarbert to Ballybunion: Friday 14 March 2025: 38.3km or 23.61miles

Nice to be running on sand again

I start today’s run in Tarbert, north Kerry. It’s probably best known for its ferry connection across the Shannon to Killimer, Co. Clare. That crossing would have allowed me to chop 250km of my coastal run, missing out Ennis, Shannon and all of Co. Limerick. However, I always resist the temptation to take any shortcuts, even though I also had lots of other opportunities with ferries in counties Down and Donegal.

Having said that, for today’s stage I did take the boat from Killimer to Talbert as a convenience when driving from Galway. Maureen and Brian join me for the crossing, and we catch the 12.00 noon ferry. After crossing the Shannon, I start my run from Tarbert, heading west on the quieter L1010 road.

With my son, Brian on the Killimer-Tarbert Ferry 

Just before I get to Ballylongford, I stop at Saleen Pier which apparently was a hub of activity in the 1840’s and was major trading point between Kerry, Clare and Limerick. Not much happening at the harbour in 2025. I don’t even spot any drug smugglers, even though signs are asking me ‘have you seen or heard anything suspicious’

At Saleen Harbour, Ballylongforward

No, I haven't - not much happening here!

I shortly arrive in Ballylongford where in 1921 Constable George Hewlett was shot in an IRA ambush in the village. Afterwards, there was strong retaliation from the British forces, described in the Irish Independent ‘in the history of reprisals, no place has been proportionally visited with such wholesale destruction as the prosperous little town of Ballylongford. What was once the business centre of North Kerry, the wealthiest district in the county because of its port, Saleen Harbour, is now little more than a smoking ruin’.

 

THE O'Rahilly 

Ballylongford seems to have a history of defiance and nationalism. Just a few years before this, Michael Rahilly, a native of the village, who called himself ‘The Rahilly’ was shot while leading a charge from the GPO in Dublin during the Easter Rising in 1916. 

Carrigafoyle Castle - guardian of the Shannon

In the village I run along Bridge Street and keep to the right where I follow a narrow country road that takes me all the way to Carrig Island. I cross over to the island and take a right. 

Bridge to Carrig Island

This lane on the island is called ‘Saint Senan’s Way’ and according to folklore, St Senan ordered that a road should be made from Carrig Island to Scattery Island, which is about 2.5km across the Shannon. I don't really believe that the lane would have taken me across the estuary to Scattery Island, so after about 200 metres I take a left along a trail which led me all the way to ‘Corran Point Battery’. This is one of these ugly structures built in the 1830’s as a protection against a French invasion, which never happened!

Corran Point Battery

Leaving Carrig Island by Salthouse Point

I was then able to loop back along a west trail and get back to the mainland on the SW side by Mortara Bay Beach at Salthouse Point. All in all, Carrig Island is quite a pleasant spot, and I can see why the author Brendan Kennelly was impressed.

“Listen, the island is not dead. Although debris drifts in like bits of lost mythologies.”

I come inland and join the R551 but don’t stay on the main road for very long. I take a right turn and follow a lane leading down to the Shannon with a stream on my lefthand side. I arrive on the east side of Littor Beach which after a while joins up with Beale Strand. The tide is coming in, so it is more rocky than sandy at the beginning. However, as I continue running west, it turns out to be perfect ‘sand for the feet of the runner’.  I haven’t used that phrase in a long time, and I really enjoyed this part of my run in the sunshine. I’m amazed there’s such a lovely beach here along the Shannon Estuary. 

Littor Beach on the Shannon Estuary

Back in November 1834 the weather wasn’t so pleasant as the ‘Thetis’ ship sought shelter in the bay having crossed the Atlantic from Quebec. The boat had a cargo of pine timber and was driven onto the shores here at Beale Strand. Two of the masts broke, and nine sailors drowned. The remaining crew members swam ashore and were welcomed into the homes of local people. However, when a salvage operation was carried out on the wrecked ship, it was discovered that it was carrying a cargo of contraband tobacco. The surviving crew members were then arrested and tried in Tralee for smuggling.

Beale Strand - on the Shannon Estuary

Cliffs Of Dooneen: I continue west and round the corner heading south. I now must say goodbye to the Shannon. The river and estuary have been my constant companion over the last year or so. The Shannon rises in Co. Cavan, miles away in the province of Ulster and joins the sea here. However, before I leave, I’m aware that there are famous cliffs in this area which are probably only known because of a beautiful ballad called, the ‘Cliffs of Dooneen’. The song was written by Jack McAuliffe, and I actually met a man here who pointed out the house where he lived. The definitive version is by Planxty, sung by a young Christy Moore with the haunting sound of the Uillean Pipes played by Liam O’Flynn. I notice that today, Friday 14 March is the anniversary of Liam’s death, exactly seven years ago. I also wonder is it a coincidence that Tom McCarthy, the famous Uillean piper, was actually born here in Doon in 1798. It is said that McCarthy would wander the cliffs and shore listening to all the wildlife around him and later would emulate these sounds with his uillean pipes. His life spanned three centuries as he lived until 1904.

Although it is a beautiful, well-written song, anybody who has actually seen the ‘Cliffs of Dooneen’ from this side would not be impressed. Even the local man I spoke to agreed that the cliffs were 'very underwhelming’. Actually, the best view is from across the estuary at Loop Head peninsula, near Rehy Hill. (see what I wrote in Stage 95). As for today, it’s time to move on….

‘So fare thee well to Dooneen fare thee well for a while and to all the fine people I’m leaving behind’.

Arriving at 'Nuns Beach', Ballybunion

From here I follow the quieter, but hilly, country road south towards Ballybunion. Once I reach the town, I join the cliff path pausing at ‘Nuns Beach’. There used to be a convent here and the nuns had their own private bathing area. The coastal path brings me right onto Main Street where I meet Maureen and Brian at the beautiful Kilcooleys Country House Hotel where we’re staying for one night only. 

Stage 104: Co. Kerry: Ballybunion to Ballyheigue: Saturday 15 March 2025: 47.1km or 29.2miles

Perfect weather for running along  the Atlantic coast

‘I love the pace and the way of life, the green fields dotted with sheep, the mountains, the sounds of the birds while walking...it just goes deep into my soul,’ Bernadette Bernadette Ní Riada, a Ballybunion poet.

I have sore feet this morning and I don’t need to be reminded of toes and bunions, as in the name, Ballybunion. I’m much more aware of how important my toes are since I picked up my foot injury last summer. I call my toes ‘my new best friends’ and I exercise them regularly by stretching them, moving them about and walking on my tiptoes.

In any case Ballybunion is nothing to do with big toes. The Bunyan family were historically associated with the castle. In fact, the history of the town goes back a long way, perhaps to 7000 BC. The Celts or Druids who lived here had a highly sophisticated system and were philosophers, judges, and teachers. Most of them converted to Christianity when St. Patrick arrived as their values and beliefs fitted in perfectly with the religious ethos.

Its an early start. I have a quick breakfast in the hotel at 6.30am. Delighted to be served poached eggs and toast at this hour. I begin my run at 7.06am. It’s a cool morning. Heading south, I try to run on the beach but after a while, as the tide is in quite far, I have to climb a steep hill onto Ballybunion Golf Course. I stay up at this level running on the grassy edge of the course. Surprisingly its quite frosty and slippery as I run along the grassy surface. Still, it’s a good feeling, running in the early morning sunshine by the Atlantic - and there’s not a golfer in sight.

Seamus Enright's Boat with inscription

Eventually I come to the end of the golf course and head inland to a wee car park where the River Cashin flows into the sea. It’s so peaceful here and an inscription on a boat dedicated to Seamus Enright sums it all up.

‘’The Cashen was his piece of Heaven on Earth. When you look to the river remember me’’

I follow the country roads and join the R551, and it brings me on a long winding way around the River Cashen. About 500 metres after I cross the river, I take a right and arrive down on the southern shore of the Cashen. 

Crossing the River Cashen, or is it the River Feale

The river could also be called the Feale which rises in Co. Limerick and flows through the towns of Abbeyfeale and Listowel. It’s a lovely, secluded spot here by the harbour looking across to Ballybunion Golf Course. Even when the coastal road comes to an end, I’m able to stay by the shoret and shortly reach Kilmore Beach.

On Kilmore Beach with memorial to Alfred Wheelhouse

At Kilmore Quay there’s a memorial to Alfred Wheelhouse who was an engineer on the Lusitania that was sunk by the German U20 U-boat when the Ship was off the coast of Kinsale, Co. Cork in May 1915. His body was washed up here on 24 July 2015, eleven weeks after the sinking of the ship. Interestingly, another man’s remains (Lindon Bates) from the Lusitania was also washed ashore off Island Eddy, Co. Galway just six days later on 30 July 1915. I referred to this in Stage 88. 

Memorial to Engineer who was on the Lusitania

After leaving Kilmore Beach I head inland where I join the ‘North Road’. I realise from here that it’s going to be a long run to reach Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head). I pass the townlands of Meenogahane, Dromnacarra and Castleshannon and cross though a rough trail heading north, near Glenlea which brings me onto the ‘Sli Ciarriai Thuadh’ (The North Kerry way). 

Following the North Road toward Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head)

This North Kerry way is a 48-kilometre linear route, and I join it at the most northerly point. However, I don’t stay on it for very long as I follow the coastal road west. I eventually take a trail even further west that leads to Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head), getting very close to the sea. This is well marked on the Ordnance Survey Map but there are very few signs around the area – and no other walkers, runners or cyclists at this beautiful spot.

The North Kerry Way - as far west as you can go!

It’s beautiful up here. A clear blue sky and no wind at all. Even though it’s a perfect Saturday, in St Patrick’s weekend, I have Kerry Head all to myself! Also, out here on the edge of the Atlantic there’s a kind of opening leading down to the sea called, An Clai Rua’ (track of the red ditch). It’s an ancient archaeological artifact of unknown original but thought to be thousands of years old. So, I’m standing here by the huge ocean in the footsteps of my pre-historic ancestors.

Finally reached Ceann Chiarrai (Kerry Head) 

I’m struggling now after my exploits of yesterday and today, but I know I don’t have too far to go. Feeling thirsty and hungry and have been topping up on gels and water. Maureen has given me one of her buns which I was saving until I reached Kerry Head. It tastes so good and gives me a boost to keep going.   

I loop around and follow the coastal road on the southern side. I did wonder about heading along a lane towards Keel Graveyard but, as it wasn’t signposted, I was hesitant in running down the hill to where I thought it might be. I had read that there is an enclosed burial ground reserved exclusively for the local Corridan Family. Tradition has it when a member of the family dies, a light shines across the Bay from Mount Brandon. 

Looking across from Kerry Head to hazy Mount Brandon

Yes, I can see Brandon across the bay. It’s 952 metres high (3,123 feet) and one of only five mountains in Ireland over 3,000 feet. I’m not sure if I’m looking forward to Easter when I’ll try to circle around the summit. Some of my friends might join me for that one. Today I continue on this country road and finally arrive at my finish point, in the beautiful coastal village of Ballyheigue. I’m exhausted but so satisfied and relieved. To crown the moment Maureen and Brian join me for the perfect picnic on the beach. Stage 104 complete.

 

Stage 106: Co. Kerry: Pre-visit: Maharees Peninsula, Castlegregory: Sunday 16 March 2025: 25.9km or 16.1miles 

The perfect coastal run - almost all on sand or grassy trail

I decided to plan a little bit ahead and take the opportunity this weekend to circle a small area on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula before we return to Kerry at Easter. It’s called ‘The Maharees’ and we’re staying two nights on the northwest side of the peninsula, near Spillane’s Pub.

View from our Airbnb in 'The Maharees' across to Mount Brandon 

What an amazing paradise this place is. Sandy beaches on both sides of the peninsula and magnificent views across to Mount Brandon. Our host, Nora meets us at the Airbnb, shows us around and leaves some tea, milk and a nice bottle of Chianti Riserva. We’ve definitely landed on our feet here.

Wee lambs say good morning to me

Before I begin I check the tides and notice that low tide is not until 12.00 noon. Therefore, I decide to run around the peninsula in a clockwise direction, with the sea on my left for a change. This is to get the benefit of the low tide when I reach the western side at Brandon Bay.

I start my run at 7.49am in Fahamore, where we’re staying, in the NW side of the Maharees. I follow the lane west into the top corner of the peninsula. When I leave the lane, I’m impressed that there’s such a lovely coastal grassy path that hugs the coast. The weather is cloudy today with the odd sunny spells but definitely no sign of any rain.

Perfect location - our Airbnb in the Maharees

I spot some of the ‘Seven Hogs’ of the north coast. These are a group of uninhabited islands and until recently some farmers would swim their cattle out to the islands at low tide (similar to Snamh Bo in Rosmuc, Connemara. See Stage 78)

The grassy path along the coast does eventually end abruptly but it was a lovely surprise to run on. I return to the point, almost to where I started earlier, but then take another lane, heading north that leads me to Scraggane Point. I have to rough it a bit to get around Scraggane Bay as its still close to high tide but then I have a pleasant run to the NE corner of the peninsula to Kilshannig. That road also comes to an end but, as I’m now on the east side of the peninsula, I just run across a field, climb a fence and reach the eastern shore. From then on, it’s a straightforward run on a grassy path or sandy shore. There is actually an official trail ‘Maharees Heritage Trail’ which is not always signposted but, if you stick to the coast, like me, you can’t go far wrong.

Anchor on the eastern shore - in memory of Pat and Tomasin Hennessy

I continue running south and eventually come to the village of Castlegregory. As this is my third day in-a-row running I stop at the Spar Shop to get some water, coffee and chocolate. I ring Maureen too and we arrange to meet later on Brandon Bay beach. Maureen and Brian will start walking south from Fahamore and I’ll be heading north from Stradbally Strand.

So, I leave Castlegregory and head west along the Stradbally Road. I can see Lough Gill on my righthand side. The lake is unusual as it's so shallow, less than one metre deep at any point. This low depth seems to suit the natterjack perfectly, and it’s one of the few places in Ireland where this toad can be found. When I reach the Church of Ireland building, I take a right along a quieter road, signposted to Stradbally Strand and soon reach the sea, near Castlegregory Golf Course. 

Church of Ireland, outside Castlegregory

At this stage its 11.00am and low tide on Brandon Bay beach – perfect. However, my three days of running are catching up on me. At least I know I can walk when I meet Maureen and Brian coming in the opposite direction. 

Brandon Bay

Sand for the feet of the horses

It’s a vast beach that seems to go on forever on both sides and its no surprise that there is a half marathon event here in July every year. It’s called the ‘Brandon Bay Run’. Definitely, 'sand for the feet of the runner'. I continue north and shortly I spot two figures in the distance and sure enough its Maureen and Brian. I’m relieved to be able to walk and soon the three of us arrive back at our Airbnb in Fahamore. So, I’ve now completed a loop of the beautiful Maharees Peninsula which I would definitely recommend to all runners! 

Running on Brandon Bay

 Stages 101-102: Limerick City to Tarbert, Co. Kerry: Fri/Sat 21/22 Feb 2025. 101km (or 63miles) over the two days

Donald and me at Ringmoylan Pier

Stage 101: Limerick City to Askeaton, Co. Limerick: Friday 21 Feb 2025: 59km or 36.7 miles

‘Limerick you′re a lady, your Shannon waters tears of joy that flow. The beauty that surrounds you, I'll take it with me love, where e′er I go’ Denis Allen

We tried to keep it strictly by the coast today but it was difficult at times

I’m so glad that my friend Donald Smith is joining me to run the Co. Limerick section along the Shannon Estuary. We’re attempting to do these two stages over two days, by only availing of public transport (from Galway) and by just using our own feet. 

_{Donald and I are up at 5.15am on the Friday morning and after a light breakfast we run the one kilometre from Aideen & Kieran’s (my in-laws) house to catch the 6.22am train from Oranmore. It’s been raining all night but we’re not too wet when we get to Oranmore station. Two hours later we arrive in Limerick City to start today’s adventure. The plan is to run to Askeaton and stay the night there in the ’Top of Town’ pub and continue onto Tarbert on the Saturday morning. The challenge is to complete the whole County Limerick coast in these two days.}  

Waiting at Oranmore Station for the 6.22am train to Limerick 

_{Patrick Sarsfield}

_{The city itself plays a key role in Irish history as it was there that the ‘Treaty of Limerick’ was signed and ended the fighting in Ireland. This was only a year after the famous Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The defeat of King James II by William of Orange wasn’t as decisive as history would lead us to believe.  James’s ‘Jacobite’s’ were still able to defend the lands west of the Shannon and Patrick Sarsfield, the First Earl of Lucan played a big part in this. Sarsfield was a general in King James army and did his best to try to stop William’s invasion into Connacht. Sarsfield, unlike others, believed that Limerick could be defended, even though King William’s men were edging closer to the Shannon. Legend has it that Sarsfield (and his small Jacobite army) tricked his way into William’s Camp as they headed to Limerick. His reputation went before him and the password to get into William’s Camp was ‘Sarsfield’ and the story goes that Sarsfield himself was able to gain entry by shouting ‘‘Sarsfield’s the word and Sarsfield is the man’’} 

_{Sarsfield’s army then captured 150 wagons of ammunition, 30 cannons and other equipment. It was a moment of glory for the Jacobite army. However, it only delayed King William’s intrusion into Connacht and in July 1691 the Jacobite’s were heavily beaten in the ‘Battle of Aughrim’ in Co. Galway, reported as the bloodiest battle ever in Ireland. After the battle, Sarsfield left Ireland along with 12,000 men and their families as part of an historical episode known as ‘The Flight of the Wild Geese’. He settled in Belgium and was injured at the Battle of Landen in Belgium in 1693. As I write this blog, I have come across a recent and most amazing development. A Dr. Loic Guyon founded a ‘Sarsfield Homecoming Project’ in 2020 with the goal of finding Sarsfield’s remains which he believes are buried in a church in Huy, Belgium. In January 2025 human remains were found in a coffin in Huy and Dr. Guyon says}

‘this person would have been close to six foot tall. We’re very hopeful because of the size of this person and the robust nature of the skull and arm bones that it’s a good candidate for it to be Patrick Sarsfield”. 

_{So, watch this space to see if 332 years later, Sarsfield is still the man.} 

With Terry Wogan at 'Poor Man's Kilkee' in Limerick City

_{When our train arrives at Limerick station, it’s still raining heavily. Donald and I take a right along Parnell Street and then a left at Thomas Street. We make our way down to the river and pause at the Shannon at a place known locally as ‘Poor Mans Kilkee’. Nobody can walk or run through Limerick without thinking about the poverty described by Frank McCourt in ‘Angela’s Ashes’. I remember reading the book years ago when I was stranded at the airport. It did shorten the long wait and later shortened my flight. I was in tears when I eventually arrived at my destination!} 

At Poor Man's Kilkee with Terry Wogan

_{Even before I read the book I knew about ‘Poor Man’s Kilkee’ as I lived in Limerick in the 1980’s. There are no beaches near Limerick City and in times gone by, only those who could afford to, could make the 90km journey to Kilkee. The rest of its citizens had to invent their own version of Kilkee here in the city. Also, by the river there’s a statue of a very famous Limerick man, Terry Wogan. Donald and I pause for a picture.} 

_{We don’t delay too long though as the rain pours down – typical ‘Angela’s Ashes’ style weather.} On the very first page of Frank McCourt's excellent book, he describes the weather.

_{''Out in the Atlantic Ocean great sheets of rain gathered to drift slowly up the River Shannon and settle forever in Limerick. The rain dampened the city from the Feast of the Circumcision to New Year's Eve. It created a cacophony of hacking coughs, bronchial rattles, asthmatic wheezes, consumptive croaks''} 

Donald at Cock Rock by the Shannon Estuary

We continue through the rain, heading west on the Dock Road, going straight through two roundabouts and join the N69. After passing Mungret and the Cement Factory, we take a right. Despite the damp morning we follow a country road that converts to a trail, and we eventually find ourselves on the banks of the Shannon at a place called Cock Rock. I thought we might be able to circle a lake, called Ballindray Creek but there are farm gates to climb over and the trail looks very muddy and rough. We double back and stop at a small shop at Ballybrown or Tervoe Village. We have a great chat with the owner of the store, Martin Hayes and he fills us in on all the local history. He tells us about the Monsell family who were landowners in this area and points to a monument outside his shop erected by William Monsell in honour of his wife, Anna. For all his wealth, Monsell had a tragic life, losing two children in infancy and then his wife Anna at the age of 41. The cross at Tervoe has the inscription

_{‘On the seventh day of January, in each year, at the foot of the cross, an alms will be given to twenty widows in memory of Anna Maria Monsell, January 7th, 1855’}

The Monsell Monument at Tervoe Village, West Limerick

Martin Hayes explains to us that this tradition of giving alms to widows on the 7th of January was kept going for years and honoured until quite recently. We could keep talking to Martin all day. He also tells us about the great Ballybrown hurling team of 1990 when they hired a train to go from Limerick to Belfast to play Loughgiel, Co. Antrim in the All-Ireland Club Semi-Final. Martin Hayes leaves us with a generous donation to Rosedale and a lovely quote about his family’s performance at a bygone match in Croke Park (Jones Road).      _{‘All praises to the Hayes for the gallant pluck they showed. For the medals now they’re wearing, that they won in Jones Road’}

Crossing the River Maigue at the Ferry Bridge

_{After our long chat with Martin, we realise that not only has the rain stopped but the sun is shining. We continue running, join the N69 again, and soon reach the Maigue River (pronounced ‘mag’) crossing over what’s called, the Ferry Bridge. The river is 62km long and actually rises in Co. Cork. Interestingly the five line poem, known as a ‘Limerick’ originated in the 18th century in this area. Two local literary enthusiasts were nick-named the Maigue Poets, Sean O Tuama, who died exactly 250 years ago along with his friend Andrias MacRaith. They started writing ‘Limericks’ to each other in the form of insults. All in good humour though. When I tell Donald about this, he composes his own Limerick in honour of me, which I’m sure would have impressed the Maigue Poets.}

_{‘A Galwegian North Downer called Gerry.} 

_{Ran the coast of NI up through Derry.}

_{Did he stop at the Border?} 

_{You'll just have to order,} 

_{His books, PS now he's in Kerry} 

(not sure about the last line – also, I thought the Maigue Poets said that Limericks should insult!)

After we cross the Maigue River at the Ferry Bridge, we take a right and follow the quiet country roads in West Limerick. We eventually reach Ringmoylan Pier. It’s a beautiful day now – sunny and even feels warm. I’m thinking about what someone once said about this area, ‘glorious Ringmoylan with its bracing air’.  Across the Estuary we can see Shannon Airport and Bunratty Castle.

The bracing air at Ringmoylan Pier

_{Despite the beautiful landscape, it's been a long and tiring day for Donald and me. We’re both getting hungry so we head inland a few miles to the only village nearby. It's called Pallaskenry and we're hoping to find a café where we can rest our weary legs for a while. The village was formerly known as Newmarket, and there’s been an Agricultural College here since 1920. (Later, my brother-in-law, Kieran tells me he studied here). Even though it’s a Friday afternoon, there’s not a lot going on in Pallaskenry. It turns out that there’s no café and the only restaurant in the village is closed. We call into a supermarket instead and settle for a coffee and muffin to take way.}

Hope we don't meet the 'Children of the damned' - the scariest film I've seen!

_{We carry on running west and take a loop road all the way down to Beagh Castle on the Shannon shore. The castle was built by the Fitzgeralds as far back as the 13th century. Even before that there is evidence that it was once a Viking outpost.}

At Beagh Castle

Donald and me at Beagh Castle

_{Donald and I investigate the ruins of Beagh Castle and when we leave the harbour, we run inland a little and then follow another route to the coast, signposted Ballysteen Pier. We follow this road and then take a right turn along a trail to the harbour.} 

Out standing in my own field! (near Ballysteen Pier)

Donald takes the best pictures - near Ballysteen Pier, West Limerick

_{We were hoping we could do a circular run here along a rough beach (not exactly Kilkee) but we got a little lost. We eventually spotted a farm but when we tried to reach a farmhouse all our ways were blocked by a wide stream. After much discussion and effort, we made the decision to backtrack all the way to Ballysteen Pier. From there it was a straight run into Askeaton.} 

Great hurling support in West Limerick

_{The sun is setting but we’ve so happy to have reached our destination. I had arranged to stay at the ‘Top of Town’ Pub and when we arrived at the bar, the owner Josh Sheahan recognised us, and we got a great cheer from all the locals. Josh and his assistant, Katie really looked after Donald and me. It felt good sitting down after 59km of running, and walking. There was even a collection later in the pub for Rosedale School and I promised I would drop some books off when I’m back in March. Josh even arranged accommodation for us and refused to take any cash for our lodgings. Thank you, Top of the Town! It has to be the best pub in Co. Limerick.} 

Celebrating our arrival in 'Top of the Town', Askeaton

       

Stage 102: Askeaton Co. Limerick to Tarbert Co. Kerry: Saturday 22 Feb 2025: 42.3km or 26.3miles

O that the pines which crown yon steep, their fires might ne'er surrender! Aubrey de Vere’s poem highlighting the beauty of nature

Running close to the coast was easier today

Donald and I have a deadline to reach Tarbert, Co. Kerry by 2.45pm today as that is the time of the last bus back to Limerick City. Therefore, it’s an early start and the plan is to skip breakfast and run all the way to Foynes and have something to eat there.

_{Askeaton & the Hell Fire Club: Askeaton is said to be the oldest town in County Limerick. The name translates as Eas Geitini, which means 'the Waterfall of the Geitini (Keatings)'. The Castle was founded by William de Burgo in 1199 and became the home of the Kings of Munster. The author Aubrey de Vere is buried in the grounds of St. Mary’s Church of Ireland. The ‘Askeaton Hell Fire Club’ was a gentleman’s club in the 1700s with ‘tales of outrageous rituals and lurid activities’ to snub clerical authority during evenings of wine, women and song. Margaret Blennerhassett known as Celinda is said to have been the only woman who ever became a member of the Askeaton Hellfire Club. In her curiosity she tried to find out what the men did so she hid herself in the meeting room before they arrived. When they discovered her there, she was formally inducted as a member, to ensure her silence.}

Sunrise at Askeaton Pier

_{Donald and I start our run by following the River Deel northwards, where it flows into the sea. It looked like there was a loop trail here at the bottom of the harbour, but we had to abandon this route as it seemed to go through a farm and cows were lurking around, watching our every move! We headed back up towards Askeaton and joined the N69, heading west.} 

Strange traffic on Askeaton to Foynes road

_{The forecast looks good for today but suddenly the rain comes down. It turns out to be the only shower of the day. After about 3k we are able to join a quieter inner road, Morgans South which actually brings us along a route leading towards Aughinish Alumina. We run down here for a look at the factory before turning back again.}

With Aughinish Alumia in the background

Aughinish Alumina 'welcome' sign in three languages

_{Aughinish Alumina: I worked here as a temporary assignment in the 1980's. The factory, still in operation today, imports Bauxite from west Africa and converts it into alumina, which is the raw material for aluminium. My accounting job back then was to check expenses, make sure they were approved properly and pay them. Alcan, as it was nicknamed then is still a huge complex and is now owned by a Russian company called Rusal. The welcome sign is in Irish, English and Russian. Aughinish itself, although technically an island is not to be confused with the Co. Clare/Co. Galway Aughinish Island. (see Stage 89)}

After breakfast in the Foynes Inn

_{We come back to the N69 again and have a nice long downhill run to reach the town of Foynes. Donald & I have already covered 20k this morning on empty stomachs, so we stop at the Foynes Inn for a delicious breakfast. We needed it. Afterwards we walk up the hill passing Foynes Island (Oileán Fainge or circular island). There is another much smaller island behind Foynes Island with the Latin sounding name of Sturamus. The writer Robert Lloyd Praeger once visited this wee island. He was the author of a famous book called ‘The Way that I went’ describing his trips around Ireland. Maybe he was the original coastal runner or walker! He rubbed shoulders with Yeats and Lady Gregory in Dublin literary circles, climbed mountains, including Mount Brandon in Co Kerry in the company of George Mallory. However, to my knowledge, he never ran along the Co. Limerick coast with a Scotsman. Seriously, I really appreciate Donald’s company today.}

Running along the Shannon shore, near Foynes, Co. Limerick

_{Although our legs are getting heavy, we start running again. We arrive at a beautiful village called Loghill and decide to come inland on a quieter country road signposted Ballyhahill (L1229). The ‘Coastal Audit Committee’ allow me to sometimes run inland as long as the route is not any shorter than the coastal alternative! In any case, it’s much brighter and sunnier up here on this high-country road, almost like one of Co. Clare’s green roads.} 

On higher ground along the inland road between Loghill and Glin 

We eventually arrive in Glin. Donald and I are relieved that the sign says only 6km to Tarbert. If it was any further away, we could have considered staying the night in the village. However, that might have been expensive because back in 2018 Taylor Swift spent Christmas in Glin Castle with her partner at the time, British actor Joe Alwyn. It cost them £50,000 for just six days.

View of Glin Castle where Taylor Swift stayed

Soon we come to the best sight of the day. It’s a sign on the side of road which says, ‘Welcome to Kerry’. I’ve finally arrived in the ‘Kingdom’. 

Welcome to the 'Kingdom' of Kerry

Shortly afterwards we reach the town of Tarbert. It’s about 2.20 pm so we are on time to catch the last bus back to Limerick at 2.45pm. We even have the pleasure of listening to the Wales v Ireland rugby game on our return journey. It’s another Triple Crown win for Ireland. From Limerick City we take the 6.05pm train to Oranmore. What is unique about these two stages is that we did it all by public transport – and by using our own four feet of course.