Total distance around Ireland, so far: 3,503kilometres (2,176miles)
Stage 92-94: West Clare Coast: Doolin to Cross: Easter
Weekend 2024: 111km (69 miles) of coastal running.
Such a great
weekend of running over the Easter weekend with the best of company - and no
rain apart from one short shower on Saturday.
Remember the crazy idea is to run around Ireland - strictly by the COAST- and once or twice a month since it all started back in Feb 2017. After completing the whole coast of ULSTER (2017-2019), I've since run around the coast of CONNACHT (2020-2023). I'm now tackling Co. Clare and the province of MUNSTER. See earlier blogs for full story since the beginning of this adventure. It's now called the ''ROSEDALE & CLIFTON Coastal Run''. In the past it has been dedicated to Clifton Special School in Bangor, Co. Down where my son Brian attended for fourteen years. I'm now supporting a special school in Galway City, ROSEDALE Special School
Next Stages 95-97:
Stage 95: Saturday, 4 May, Cross to Carrigaholt (via Loop Head): 36km
Stage 96: Bank Holiday Monday, 6 May, Carrigaholt to Kilrush: 32km
If you are thinking of joining me or want more information please email me on gerry@oboyleaccounting.com or ring/text/WhatsApp me on 00 44 (0) 7725613308.
The story so far, see below and other Stages too
Stage 92: Co. Clare: Doolin
to Spanish Point: Good Friday 29 March 2024:45.67km or
28.38miles
‘'With bones of Burren marrow shared
blood of Connemara, we’re just making sands out here’ from ‘Making Sand’ by Padraig Jack
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| Doolin Pier to Spanish Point via Cliffs of Moher |
I’m blessed again
this morning to have a great bunch of runners with me. There are eight of us
today. That is the biggest number I’ve had with me since there were eleven of
us on the Donaghadee to Belfast section back in September 2017. It’s an early
start from Oranmore as Donald, Helen and I must make the trip to Spanish Point
first and drop off a car there. We still make it back in time to Doolin Pier
for 9.30am. Helen has also brought along her two fit teenage children, Holly,
and James. Also, another couple of runners from North Down, Steve and Alison
Wise, join our team. Finally, our young local runner Roisin Howley from
Kilfenora is back to guide us on our adventure.
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| Today's team of eight |
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| Leaving Doolin Village |
Doolin is the
traditional music capital of the world and closest point to the Aran Islands
with the smallest one, Inis Oirr only about 10km across the bay. From the pier we
follow the coastal trail which takes us on a muddy track leading to the famous
Cliffs of Moher.
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| Following the coastal path to the cliffs |
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| Alison & Roisin |
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| Alison knows the trick to stop from falling |
It’s turning out to be a beautiful clear morning with amazing
views across to the Aran Islands and even further north to Connemara. We still
need to concentrate as there are quite a few electric fences on the trail, as young
James will testify! After getting a shock, he was dramatically thrown across
the path. Meanwhile his Mum slips in the mud!
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| However, Helen has a slight fall |
As we get closer to the famous cliffs we meet more and more tourists.
However, I think we’ve had a much nicer approach to the Cliffs Of Moher. When we reach the cliffs, Roisin
takes us down to see ‘Aileen’s Wave’, a famous location for
surfers. Only the very experienced tackle these wave breaks known as ‘Aill
Na Searrach’ (the leap of the foals).
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| Roisin & Donald make their way down the lower cliffs |
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| I get chatting to Hannah from Finland |
We stop at O’Brien’s
Tower Observation Tower and its here we lose half of our group. No, they didn’t
fall over the cliffs! We had planned that Alison, Steve, Holly and James would not
run all the way to Spanish Point and this was a good stop off point for them.
From here they got the bus back to Doolin. Meanwhile Helen, Roisin, Donald, and
I continue on the path towards Hags Head, where the cliffs form an unusual rock
formation resembling an old woman looking out to sea.
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| Roisin meets her cousin, busking at Cliffs Of Moher |
For a short while along here,
we recruit another runner called Dylan. He is from NW America and despite
running in his blue jeans he can stay with us for a couple of miles.
 |
| Dylan joins us for a while |
We leave the
cliffs (and Dylan) and have a pleasant run downhill where we join some country
roads, trying to stay as close to the coast as possible. We arrive in the
village of Liscannor. The most famous person to have
lived here is John Philip Holland. The Doolin musician, Micho Russell explains
in song why this man was so celebrated.
Come all you young Irishmen who walk upon the land,
There are feats indeed, and fairy creeds, that you
might understand:
There is one of them that comes to mind, the likes
were never seen,
He was John Philip Holland who invented the submarine.
On the road from Liscannor to
Lahinch, Roisin keeps us safe and makes sure we’re not tempted to go down on
the shore and cross the marshy Inagh River. Instead, we cross at O’Brien’s Bridge and
as we get to the other side of the river, we have a pleasant surprise. Roisin’s
sister Grainne has come to join us on Lahinch beach where we have the perfect
low tide to run on the sand.
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| At Clahane, west of Liscannor |
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| Roisin touching the horseshoes (for good luck) on O'Brien's Bridge |
In Percy French’s
song about the West Clare Railway, he writes ‘At Lahinch, the sea shines
like a jewel’ and with today’s beautiful weather the sea does shine. In
July 1976 I worked for a fruit company, aptly called ‘West Coast’.
They purchased fruit from Dolans in Galway where my father was manager and
delivered it to various shops along the west coast of Clare. During that lovely summer I discovered the Burren and Co. Clare in all its beauty. We used
to stop off at various delivery points along the coast and we always reached Lahinch
in the afternoon. During that summer Co. Clare looked glorious and this
adventure has reminded me of its charm.
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| Great that Grainne (Roisin's sister) joins us |
Back in 2024, Grainne
who’s recovering from an injury, runs with us and helps us reach the town. It’s
been a long morning over rough terrain and has taken us over four hours to get
here – and we still have 17km to go. Roisin takes us into the Leisure Centre in
Lahinch where everyone seems to know her. We get some drinks and snacks here –
refuelling for the runners.
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| Roisin struggles to reach the ledge! |
After we leave Lahinch,
we must stick to the main road which is quite tricky with some sharp bends.
Then we have quite a climb up to Dromin Hill which has an historical
significance as it was here that a famous ambush was planned in September 1920.
The attack was by the ‘Irish Volunteers of the Mid Clare Brigade’
in revenge for one of their men, Michael Devitt, been executed by the British
forces. We pass the Ambush Memorial on our left and 200 metres further
we take a right down to the shore, signposted Freagh Graveyard (L6268). On the
shore we pass ‘Suaimhneas Saunas’ (Serenity Saunas). Helen is
hinting that we should stop our run here, but we convince her to continue with
us for the last few kilometres. To keep us all going Donald continues to hand out some more wine gums.
We’re close to Milltown
Malbay and Roisin tells us about the Willie Clancy traditional festival where
all musicians from all over the world come to this area. Willie played the
uilleann pips and the annual event has been running since his death in 1973.
We take a right turn
and join a quieter road, the R482. I think we all struggled over the last few
miles and we’re so relieved to finally arrive at Spanish Point. We dip our
tired feet in the water and relax in the sunshine. Later back in Doolin we
reunite the team in O’Connor’s Pub and enjoy fish & chips, and some Guinness.
Stage 92 completed.
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| Dipping our feet in water at our finish line in Spanish Point |
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| Back in O'Connor's Pub in Doolin with rest of team |
Stage 93:
Co. Clare: Spanish Point to Kilkee: Easter Saturday 30 March 2024: 43.25km or
26.87miles
"Whatever
adventure you have, believe in yourself and be willing to take some risks. I
had to come back three times – I believed that it was possible." (Jasmin Paris, the first woman to complete the Barkley
Marathons)
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| Spanish Point to Kilkee |
I have a new team
with me today. My sons, Conor and Matthew join me, and Donald is back for more west
Clare running. Meanwhile Steve, Alison, Helen, Holly and James catch the ferry
over to Inis Meain to do the parkrun. Inis Meain is the middle one of the
three Aran Islands, and the parkrun doesn’t start until 11.00am to give people
time to get the ferry across. (I think it is the only parkrun in Ireland or UK
that doesn’t start at 9.00 or 9.30).
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| North Down AC runners visit the Aran Islands |
Meanwhile Donald,
Conor, Matthew, and I drive from Oranmore to Spanish Point to begin today’s
run. On my coastal journey around Ireland, I have referred so many times to the
Spanish Armada. The year was 1588 and after losing the battle of Gravelines in the
English Channel the Spanish Navy were chased up the east side of the English
coast. They decided that the safest way to return to Spain was to take the long
route around Scotland and Ireland. When the Armada reached Co. Donegal, their
main difficulties began. In Kinnagoe Bay in Inishowen and near Gowla Island in
west Donegal two of their boats sank. At Streedagh Strand in Sligo three ships
crashed. In Mayo and Galway more boats were lost and in Co. Clare there were further
disasters. It was the 16th century; navigation aids were not great, and the
Spanish ships were met with unusually strong Atlantic winds. Only 66 ships of
130 arrived safely back to Spain.
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| Starting run in Spanish Point with Conor & Daniel |
Back in the 21st century
we run on the beach for a short while but then must hop onto the coastal road for about 2km and then take a right turn
towards the coast. We can see on the OS map that the boreen connects to a trail
along the shore but when we reach the trail it’s covered in big rocks. We clambered
over so many boulders and rocks today and this was probably the main reason why
today’s stage took so long. We stay by the shore, roughing it along grassy
terrain to Emlagh Point until we come to Quilty. There is a coastal road that
we stay on until we spot Seafield Pier. We run to the pier, and we are now at
the closest point to Mutton Island.
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| At Seafield Pier, near where San Marcos sunk |
It was at this
exact point on 20th September 1588 that the Spanish Ship the ‘San Marcos’
sunk. On the same day the ‘San Estban’ ran aground further south,
off White Strand near Doonbeg. In total 630 drown from both Armada Ships and
only 74 men survived. By orders of Sir William Fitzwilliam, who was Lord Deputy
of Ireland, the young sailors were taken to what is now, Spanish Point and
executed there. Interestingly Fitzwilliam was also Governor of Fotheringhay
Castle in Northampton, and he supervised the execution of Mary, Queen of Scots
who spent her last days there and was beheaded in the castle’s great hall. At
Spanish Point, it is understood that there is a mass grave (big enough for all
700 bodies) located on the northern shore of Bealaclugga Bay on the
geographical headland of Spanish Point.
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John, Paul, George & Ringo
 | Donald has magic touch with horses
|
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At Seafield Pier
we stay by the shore and attempt to run on a rough beach. It’s called Tromoro
Castle Bay Beach on google maps. There are more boulders on the shore, but we continue
trying to find the sandy parts. It’s around here
that we suffer the only rain shower of the whole weekend. As it happens, we’re running
through an open field with absolutely no protection when the rain comes. It lasts
about ten minutes but later as we run along against the southerly wind, we begin
to dry out. We pass Lough Donnell on our left side and the water is gushing
down from the lake creating various streams and rivers that we struggle to
cross over.
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| Running on Doughmore Beach |
We come back on a country road again for a short while that brings
us down to the shore and to the long Doughmore Beach. This is much better and
although we’re running into a strong southerly wind, we have no obstacles on
this strand. There are signs here saying ‘dangerous for bathing’
because of strong rip currents. However, it’s perfect ‘sand for
the runner’ in the low tide. Inland from the beach is the famous
Doonbeg Golf Course now owned by Donald Trump. The joining fee for the Golf
Club would set you back €20,000 while annual fees are €3,675.
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| Crossing river at Doughmore |
On the west side
of Doughmore strand we must decide whether we cross a shallow but wide river or
alternatively run 1km inland and rejoin the N67. Even though it’s low tide we still
know we will get our feet wet. We discuss the situation. It’s too cold to take
off our shoes and socks off so we just run across the fifty-metre-wide stream to
the other side. We follow the shore all the way to McGrath’s Point and loop our
way back towards the village of Doonbeg (small fort)
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| At the small fort at Doonbeg (which means small fort) |
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| Donald & Roisin at Doonbeg |
It’s been a tough
run so far and we need a break as we’ve covered 20k already over some rough
ground - and we’re only about halfway to Kilkee! We meet a couple Nora and
Andrew who give us a donation for Rosedale school. We also get a nice surprise
on the main street in Doonbeg when we see Roisin who’s been trying to follow us
on her bike. We all call into Morrissey’s Pub, which is partly owned by the
rugby player, Conor Murray. I know we still have a long way to go so we order some
light lunches. Roisin and Donald have the Seafood Chowder and Conor and I have
Crab Tostadas. They are delicious. It’s the perfect light lunch and we drink
plenty of water too.
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| At Doonmore Castle |
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| Checking the map |
We continue from
Doonbeg, Roisin joining us on her bike as far as the castle and pier at Doonmore
(big fort). We run along the shore and meet her again at White Strand beach. We
say goodbye to Roisin again as we take a very rough coastal route – more
walking than running – and eventually reach the most spectacular Baltard Cliffs
at Captains Hill.
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| Crossing the narrow wooden bridge |
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| Conor makes it look easy |
I’m so proud of
my two sons, Conor and Matthew. Yes, they are a lot younger than me but neither
have ever run this distance before or roughed it like we’re doing today. We
climb higher and higher, with amazing views over cliffs and headlands. It feels
every bit as impressive as the Cliffs of Moher, and we have it all to
ourselves. Not another soul around! But hold on, we spot a lone runner in the
distance. As we get closer, we recognise who it is. It’s Roisin again. She’s
left her bike on some country lane and has run up to the cliffs to join us.
Finally, we do say goodbye to her for the last time today.
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| Conor at Baltard Cliffs |
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| Coasting it in west Clare |
We follow a boreen
heading towards Donegal Point but soon come to a farmgate which is clearly
marked ‘Private Property – No Entry’ and ‘Beware of the
Bull’. We respect the owner’s wishes and head back down again. Conor
spots a boreen with telegraph poles that seem to lead down to the shore. It’s a
good decision to follow this lane and we arrive at the coast, just south of
Donegal Point. I’m not sure why its called Donegal Point – definitely couldn’t ever
see Donegal from here!
We stay by the
shore and clamber over a few more rocks and boulders. Eventually we come to a
country road. Coincidentally it’s called the L2024 so a good year to be here. It’s a long steep climb up
here and none of us are even going to even attempt to run. We’re actually
passing through ‘An Cuaisin’ or Coosheen which was once an Irish
speaking village. A hundred years ago there were 22 homes with over 200 people
living here, all depending on the sea to make a livelihood and all speaking
Irish.
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| Donald trying to climb under electric wire |
Before we reach
the N67 we follow a trail towards the coast, avoiding the main road. There are
a few more electric fences to climb over and under. We pass a small farm and a
few cows spot us and start to head our way. We make a wide berth around them
and shortly we arrive in Kilkee golf course. No sign of any golfers and we
struggle a bit to exit the course and climb over a gate. Finally, we can see
the beautiful Kilkee in front of us.
In 2002 Maureen
and our three boys spent a lovely week in Kilkee. This was before Brian was
born and we were blessed with gorgeous weather. There was enough in the small
seaside town to keep us entertained and a beautiful, sheltered beach that we
visited every day. Kilkee was also the last stop on the old West Railway. In
1896 the musician Percy French wrote jokingly about the delays as he was late
for a recital in the town. His song ‘Are ye right there Michael’
became popular all over Ireland with its opening lines.
‘You make
talk of Columbus’s sailing across the Atlantical sea, but he never tried to go
railing from Ennis as far as Kilkee’.
However, the West
Clare Railway company were offended by its sentiment and decided to take him to
court. When Percy French arrived for the libel hearing, the judge criticised
him for his lateness. ‘Your honour, I travelled by the West Clare
Railway’. The case was thrown out!
Back in 2002 we
were able to go on a short steam engine trip on a restored West Clare Railway
carriage. I remember the train driver referring to Percy French and how the
case was dismissed. ‘He got us twice’, he said.
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| At the Finish line in Kilkee |
We are so relieved to arrive in Kilkee. It’s been a long day. Donald
spots the mural of Che Guevarra on the wall at the end of the beach. Yes, a
strange face to see after a long run in the wilderness. Jim Fitzpatrick, the
Irish artist painted the picture of the rebel on the sea wall in 2012.
Fitzpatrick maintains his painting was a celebration of Latin American culture
and part of the Kilkee ‘Che do Bheata’ festival. I had read that
the local council removed it but it’s still clearly visibly today. The
Argentinian born Che Guevara had been in Kilkee in 1961 after a stopover in Shannon.
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| Che Guevarra picture on Kilkee Strand |
While waiting for our taxi, we order some chips before it arrives to
take us back to Spanish Point. Those salt and vinegar flavoured chips were so delicious
and tasty after our exertions today. Stage 93 completed.
Stage 94: Co. Clare: Kilkee to Cross: Easter Monday 1
April 2024: 21.82km or 13.56miles
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| Kilkee to Cross |
Wherever I went in life, whatever I was doing
in some tropical location or ritzy hotel I would think of the beach or the
promenade in Kilkee and yearn. Every man has a spiritual home; that is mine.” (the actor and
sportsman, Richard Harris)
I’m finishing off this Easter weekend with a shorter run. I’ve picked the
wee village of Cross as a finish line as it will be convenient for my next run (on
Saturday 4 May) where I hope to do a loop run to aptly named Loop Head.
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| Meeting Helen and Roisin in Kilkee |
I had arranged to meet Helen on Kilkee beach at 9.30am but I got a
lovely surprise when Roisin, our West Clare runner, also joined us. We decided
to do today’s run clockwise (sea on our left). This was to get the rough section
near Cross over at the beginning and to have the long Kilkee strand as our
finish line. We drove both vehicles to Cross and left Helen’s campervan, Winnie
in Cross.
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| Leaving Cross and heading to the coast |
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| Donald says this picture reminds him of Father Ted getting ready to kick Bishop Brennan up the arse |
It turned out to be a beautiful morning in SW Clare. We headed west from
Cross and then took a trail north. We roughed it then for a couple of
kilometres through bushes and under (and over) a few electric fences. It was
worth it to see these more spectacular cliffs that few have seen in hundreds of
years. We then rejoined a coastal boreen and that made it easier from then on. Shortly,
we pass a massive sea stack sitting out in the blue ocean. It’s called
Illaunonearaun or Healy’s Island.
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| Helen & Roisin looking across to llaunonearaun (Healy’s Island). |
I really appreciate Helen and Roisin’s company today and their
encouragement. My body is feeling the affects of a weekend of a running, and
I’ve just passed the 100km mark over the three days. We leave the road for a
short detour at Moveen towards a grassy ledge, spotting a few young fishermen.
It’s a beautiful April day and 14 degrees but probably not warm enough for
mackerel yet but maybe it is for pollack and coalfish.
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| At Moveen we ask a fisherman to take our picture while I borrow his fishing rod |
Some of the best-known writers, like Charlotte Bronte and Alfred
Tennyson have holidayed here and marvelled at the beauty, as we do, on this
platform on the west of Europe. Bronte on her honeymoon here in 1854 said ‘such
battling of waves with rocks I had never imagined’.
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| Checking the map again |
On we go. We pass
‘Saint Kee’s Well’ that Kilkee is called
after. We spot another Sea Stack that we noticed on Saturday from Kilkee golf
course. This one is called Bishops Island. When Ordnance Survey maps were first
created, the island was referred to as
‘still occasionally frequented for
the cure of diseases of the eye’. How you could possibly get onto the
sea stack is another story. There are remains there of a sixth century monastic
settlement founded by Saint Senan and that’s probably where the name, Bishop’s
Island probably came from.
Shortly we come to the Kilkee Cliff Path and the three of us are able to
follow this loop all the way to the Kilkee. Down on the shore Helen stops at
the statue of the actor, Richard Harris. Harris was a
great sportsman in his youth and shares something with Roisin. He was a strong
swimmer and swam in the annual 2.5km across the bay competition. Roisin tells
us about the Kilkee Bay Swim, and I can only imagine how difficult that must be
with the wind and waves pushing you all over the place.  |
| Richard Harris points to Helen |
As the three of us
arrive on the strand in midafternoon, its low tide, the sun is shining, and we
have the perfect run to our finish line along Kilkee beach.  |
| At the finish line on Kilkee Beach. Weekend of running complete! |
