STAGES 59-60: Co. Mayo: Mulranny to Doogort (Achill): 

Tractor decked in Mayo Colours outside Hotel

            Stage 59

    Co. Mayo: Achill Sound to Mulranny 

            Saturday 11 Sept 2021

            29.66km or 18.43miles

‘’One ought to go too far, in order to know how far one can, go’’ Heinrich Boll

Yes it’s the All-Ireland Final today and for most people in Mayo it’s going to be a long day until throw in at 5.00 pm. Even, as a Galway man, I’m nervous so it’s good to get a long run in before the big match. We’re staying this weekend at Ostan Achill (Achill Island Hotel). It's exactly where I finished my previous run just eleven days ago. We didn’t intend to come here this weekend, but the lure of Co. Mayo tempted us back with the opportunity to be here if the county breaks that 70-year gap of winning the Sam Maguire Cup

View outside hotel as I start Stage 59

I’m running along the southern shore of the large Corraun peninsula. This peninsula is like a big island just east of Achill but west of Mulranny and I reckon that not many people take this southern coast route that I’m running on today. I grab a quick early breakfast at the hotel and quickly join the quieter country road heading south towards the bottom of the Corraun peninsula. I pass by a wee hill and river, both called Beal Feirste. Yes I’m in Belfast, Co. Mayo! 

Belfast, Co. Mayo with Hill of Corraun behind

Soon I see a much bigger hill, Cnoc an Chorrain which dominates the whole peninsula. I take a right turn when I reach the southern part of the coast and I run all the way down to the pier which is tucked into the south-west corner of the peninsula. Across the narrow channel I can clearly see Cloughmore Pier on Achill Island and behind that the small island, aptly named, Acaill Bheag. I meet a young couple here, Serena and Emmet and we get chatting. It’s a beautiful morning and this looks like the perfect place for fishing in this secluded spot.

Emmet at Corraun Pier

Serena and Emmet at Corraun Pier

 

I circle the grassy corner of the peninsula but struggle a bit as its high tide now and not much sand to run on. Back on the coast road I get chatting to a local man who tells me that there are two films being made in this beautiful area. One of them is called, ‘My Sailor My Love’, by the Finnish Director, Klaus Haro and the other is ‘The Banshees of Inisheer’ by Irish Director, Martin McDonough. Artists and writers have always been attracted to this area. Charles Dickens, grandson of the famous writer lived nearby in Corraun House and Heinrich Boll, the German writer lived for a time in Doogort, Achill. Also, the author, Graham Green was introduced to Achill by his mistress, Catherine Walston.

I meet another runner, Miceal

As I run around the southern part of the peninsula I pass yet another Spanish Armada reminder. Sadly, I’ve seen so many of these Armada Memorials on my coastal runs. This one commemorates the ship, ‘El Gran Grin’ which sank nearby off Clare Island. The O’Malley’s of Clare Island and Queen Granuaile had connections to Spain and apparently treated the Armada soldiers quite well.

Clare Island where Armada Ship 'El Gran Grin' sank

Sheep staging a stand off !

It's been a straight-forward run around this peninsula and soon I see Mullranny in the distance. I head down towards the beach and spot Maureen and Brian walking down from the Mullranny Park Hotel. It’s perfect timing and the three of us walk down to the pier and back up to the hotel to complete Stage 59.

Meeting Maureen & Brian in front of Mulranny Hotel

At Mulranny Pier

Letting sheep go first over Mulranny bridge

Later in the afternoon we enjoyed a lovely dinner back in the hotel in Achill. We were able to catch the whole atmosphere in the bar as the All Ireland started. Sadly, it wasn’t to be Mayo’s day and Tyrone were deserved winners. So, the adventure and search for Sam continues!     

 

 

Stage 60

Co. Mayo: Achill Sound to Doogort (Achill)

Sunday 12 Sept 2021

34.64km or 21.5miles 

It’s a beautiful morning as I set off on my run, crossing over the Michael Davitt Bridge and onto the island of Achill. Yesterday the two ladies who served me breakfast wore their Mayo shirts and snoods. Today they’re back wearing their work blouses. Yes, a sad day for Mayo after yesterday’s All-Ireland loss. 

Even Nature's Green and Red seem to be supporting Mayo 

I run along the main road for about a mile before taking a right turn onto the Shore Road, marked ‘Saula Walk’. I’ve heard of the Mayo Greenway being extended onto Achill Island and there are ‘bike signs’ along here. It 's perfect for cycling, walking or running. 

Achill's Smallest Pub (Lynott's Pub)

It’s quite a long loop before I get back on the main road again. I stop at a Petrol Station, buy a bottle of water, and then continue until I see right turn for Doogort. I follow more bike signs along a quieter country lane that winds itself around the coast. 

Near Bulls Mouth Pier

Eventually I come to a T junction at Beal A’ Bhulain and I take a right which takes me down to Bulls Mouth Pier. This is the closest point to Inis Bigil island which we were lucky to visit last month. (See Stage 57). For over twenty years there was talk of having a cable-car across to the island. It’s a pity it didn’t take off as it would have opened up Inis Bigil to tourism, and would also have also promoted this side of Achill Island.

Seat of Knowledge with Inisbigil Island behind

At the pier I see a trail to my left which I follow along the coast. Unfortunately for me it’s high tide now and I struggle through some rocks but get through to Dooinver Strand (Tra Dhun Ibhir). I keep running along the rocky shore, cursing Mother Nature and her incoming tide! I then come to Loch Sruhill (Loch Dhun Ibhir) and things get even worse. The tide is so far in that it joins up with the lake and there’s no obvious way across. In hindsight I should have taken off my shoes and socks to the other side and probably would have made it across. Being sensible I decided to double back, head inland and follow the road around the lake. 

Can't get around Loch Sruhill at high tide

However, I went too far inland, and I calculate that my round trip (around Loch Sruhill) cost me an extra 4km. Slievemore is now towering in front of me and it's reassuring to know that today I only have to reach the foot of the mountain. I run down towards the sea again and I’m able to follow a perfect coastal trail that brings me all the way to Ridge Point (Gob an Iomaire) which is Achill’s most northerly point. 

Slievemore view from Gubnahardia Strand

Even when that trail comes to an end I’m able to rough it for a short while through some fields before joining up with two lovely beaches at Gubnahardia and later, Golden Strand which is sometimes called, Bhearna na gCapall (strand of the horses). A study done on this strand last year investigated if some beaches could become extinct by the end of the century. The survey revealed that, even though Golden Strand was battered by seventeen storms, it was 'largely insensitive' to their impact. This sand might be dragged away in winter by these blizzards but it is held offshore and then returned in fair weather. 

Yet another Cillin for the Unbaptised at Bhearna na gCapall

Here I had to join the road again at Masterson’s Bar and after a steep climb up the hill I arrived in Doogort and onto Pollawaddy strand where Maureen and Brian were there to meet me at my finish line.

My finish line at Doogort (Pollawaddy Strand) with Slievemore behind

As it’s still a nice day Maureen, Brian and I take the opportunity to visit Achill’s Deserted Village and we make that spectacular drive down from Keel Strand to Keem Beach. I soon get a full flavour of what the next stages in Achill are going to be like. Lots of hills to climb!    

On Keel Strand 

Looking down onto Keem beach