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| STAGES 51-54: Maureen&Brian behind Ballyglas Lighthouse |
Stage 51
Co. Mayo: Mullet Peninsula: Clogher to Ballyglass Lighthouse
Saturday 10 July 2021
It was another five hour journey yesterday evening from Bangor, Co. Down but at least this time we have almost a week in the west of Ireland. Last night Maureen, Brian and I stayed in Clogher, in the southern part of the Mullet peninsula in a lovely B&B called 'Bru Chlann Lir'. Our host Josephine entertained us over the four or five days.
Just like last time I decided on a very early start this morning with a light breakfast (Weetabix and banana) before I started my run. Maureen and Brian opt for the full Irish breakfast at 9.00am and we arrange to meet later at the top corner of the peninsula, Ballyglass Lighthouse. Today I’ve running along the east side of the Mullet Peninsula.
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| Road to beach near our B&B |
It was the perfect morning as I left the B&B at 6.36am, heading east to a nearby beach, Tra Fheorainn (or Tra Mullach Rua) and then north when I reached the strand. I was able to quickly get onto the country road and still stick to the coast. After coasting around Elly Bay (Ba Oili) I took a right turn (L5235) to Rosbaragh Island.
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| With Peter, near Rosbarnagh Island |
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| High tide at Rosbarnagh Island |
Rosbarnagh (Ros Bairneach) Island
It’s always nice to do some of the coastal run (or walk) with Maureen and Brian and we returned to the island on the Monday afternoon. Strava recorded our complete circle of the island as only 2.5km but it was tough going with no real path to follow and lots of ditches, long grass and fences to climb over. We were glad to get back again to the causeway and the mainland!
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| Maureen, Brian and I circled Rosbarnagh Island |
Meanwhile on this Saturday morning, running on my own, I kept to the country roads. I coasted around the village of Binghamstown which at one stage was the main centre of population on the peninsula. The village was founded by Major Bingham (not sure if he was related to the North Down Binghams). Bingham didn’t take too kindly when a rival town, Belmullet was built and he erected a large gate across the roadway to stop anyone who took their animals to the Belmullet Fair. They had to pay a toll as they passed through his gate. It became known as an Geata Mhor (the big Gate)
So being the rebel that I am, I avoided Binghamstown and any possible toll charge! In any case my coastal route was much more interesting even if it did mean crossing a rough trail which I spotted as a dotted line on the Ordnance map. Soon I arrived, feeling very thirsty, on the outskirts of the town of Belmullet. I stopped at a small garage, looking for water and the man asked me “what kind of water do you want”. I said, “Water to drink”. He told me he only had deionised water, so I decided to give that a miss and wait until I was able to get drinking water in a shop nearby.
So after downing a full bottle of drinking water I continued north, following the Ballyglass Road. I kept to that road until I came to a small, staggered crossroads.
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| Coastal road I took towards Morahan |
The sign said, left for Tipp Pier and right for Morahan which led me down towards an even quieter coastal road. Eventually I arrived back on the main Ballyglass Road and it was a mostly downhill run all the way to Ballyglass Pier.
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| Near Ballyglas Pier |
I had a wee break at the pier, rang Maureen to tell her where I was, then backtracked and took a right turn, signposted ‘Radharc na Mara’ (view of the sea) which took me on a trail to Ballyglass Lighthouse where Maureen and Brian were there to meet me. It was still only 11.30am so I was happy with today’s run although I know tomorrow’s challenge will be a lot more difficult.
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| Brian at Ballyglas Lighthouse |
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| Maureen&Brian behind Ballyglas Lighthouse |
Stage 52
Co. Mayo: Mullet Peninsula: Ballyglass to Tra Bheal Doire
Sunday 11 July 2021
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| Back at Ballyglas Lighthouse again |
After leaving the lighthouse I’m able to run south on the country road. I don’t risk taking the turn for Poll an Chapaill (stream of the horses) and trying to cross Blind Harbour. Even at low tide that would not be safe. Instead, I stay on the main road and take a right, signposted Tipp Pier. I don’t run down quite as far as the pier but take a left through a farmer’s track climbing up to the top of the headland.
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| Bog Lillies along Headland |
I follow the coast all the way around, running through boggy fields.
It seems to take me ages but I eventually reach Ceann Iorrais (Erris Head)
where I had arranged to meet Maureen and Brian again. There’s a small car park
here and a wee mobile coffee/snack stand. It’s taken me over two hours to get
here and I’m so glad to have a break.
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| With Helen at Ceann Iorrais (Erris Head) |
We get talking to two girls Helen and Ali who
are doing their own walking, swimming and running challenge around the
peninsula. Helen is commemorating her sister and brother (Tish and Niall
Murphy) who tragically lost their lives in a drowning accident exactly twenty years
ago. We also get talking to Cathal and Noreen at the kiosk/coffee stand
(Cliffside Treats). Noreen had her own personal tragedy when she lost her son,
Daniel through a fishing accident. We had seen a commemoration plaque for
Daniel on Rinroe Beach a few weeks ago and coincidentally it was Stephan
(landlord from Yellow Rose B&B where we stayed) who found Daniels body
after he was missing for days.
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| Brian & Maureen during loop walk at top of Peninsula |
Erris Head Loop Walk (Lub Cheann Iorrais)
I noticed a red
dotted line on the Ordnance survey map to indicate this path which goes from the
car park up to the very top of the peninsula. It means that Maureen and Brian can
join me along this 5km stretch and I appreciated walking (rather than running)
for a few miles.
After we reach
the top I say goodbye to Maureen and Brian and I carry on, heading south on the
coastal headland. As time passed I really struggled along here especially as I
realised I had a long way to go on such a hilly and uneven terrain. This was tough
going but it did bring me to the close to Eagle Island (Oilean Tuaidh).
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| Eagle Island - closest point from Mullet Peninsula |
A Goat’s Song: I’ve just been reading Dermot Healy’s book ‘A Goat’s Song’ and he refers to this particular area. It’s the perfect novel to read if you’re visiting the peninsula. The main character in the book had a house in Aghadoon and he refers to Eagle Island and its flashing light from the lighthouse “three times flashes, count to eight and three times more”. At night from our B&B (10km away) we can see the flashing Lighthouse, but Brian and I counted to eighteen (not eight) each time before it flashes again!
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| View of Eagle Island from Dun na mBo |
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| At Dun na mBo - rock, rock and more rock |
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| Shortcut from Dun na mBo to Annagh Head |
It’s low tide now and so it means I can take a shortcut along a beach that eventually brings me onto the road towards Annagh Head. This piece of luck has encouraged me and although I’m tired and very thirsty I’m feeling more positive.
Annagh Head (Ceann an
Eanaigh)
I run all the way
down to the end of the peninsula at Annagh Head. Here on the west side of the
Mullet Peninsula are the oldest rocks on mainland Ireland, 1,753 million years
old. In the book ‘A Goat’s Song’, people light a bonfire at Annagh Head to celebrate
St. John’s Night (23rd June). However, today I’m the only person here.
It’s not all easy along the strand but it is mostly beaches (or sand dunes) and I eventually arrive on Tra Bheal Doire. It’s 6.00pm and it has been a long day!
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| Relieved to arrive at Tra Bheal Doire |
Co. Mayo: Mullet Peninsula: Tra Bheal Doire to Tra Deirbhile
Wednesday 14 July 2021
Yes I completed this section on the Wednesday having already completed Stage 54 on Monday 12 July. Maureen and Brian joined me for the first two miles which was really just a nice walk on the beach. Even when I left them, it was mostly a 10 mile run along the strand on the west side of the peninsula.
Interestingly we followed some of the route for the Erris parkrun (because of Covid restrictions the parkrun hasn’t started back yet). At Blacksod Pier on Monday morning I met the organiser of the Erris parkrun, Padraig Brogan and I promised I would come back when it restarts. Padraig insisted that I come into in his office later that day and presented me with a parkrun cup and an Erris parkrun keyring. In January 2023 I was shocked to hear the very sad news that Padraig had passed away. I was so privileged to have met such a lovely man. I still carry the Erris parkrun keyring with me, attached to my car and house keys. I will keep my promise to return some day and do the parkrun in Padraig's honour.
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| Padraig presenting me with Erris parkrun coffee cup |
Sinead Diver: Speaking of running I realise I’m not too far away from where Sinead Diver grew up. Sinead is running in the Tokyo marathon in a few weeks. She only started running in 2010 at the age of 33 after she moved to Australia. Under normal circumstances she might have been home in Corclough and might have even joined me, but I’ll excuse her today as she’s running at a much bigger event in Japan! And an update to this story: Sinead finished tenth in the Olympic Marathon in August 2021 in a time of 2 hours 31 mins. More recently in December 2022 she knocked another 10 minutes of that time in the Valencia Marathon with 2 hours 21 mins. That time would have won her every Olympic Marathon. Not bad for a wee girl from west Mullet.
We can clearly see
Inish Gluaire (The island of Purity) which has a connection to the story, ‘The Children
of Lir’ based on the old Irish legend about the four children who were turned
into swans. Inish Gluaire is where, according the legend, the swans/children
had to spend the final 300 years as part of their punishment.
There is another even stranger and scarier legend that the medieval writer, Giraldus Cambrensis (1146-1223) tells about Inish Gluaire island. It says that human corpses don't decay on the island and ‘if deposited in open air, they remain uncorrupted; relatives can recognise their parents, grandfathers, great-grandfathers and all their ancestors’. Not so sure if I want to believe this. It reminds me a little of the ‘White Walkers’ in Game of Thrones which would give anyone the creeps!
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| On western beach |
Anyway, back to July 2021. I say
goodbye to Maureen and Brian and continue along the beach. There’s a strong
south-west blowing in my face but at least there are no hills today. Also, the
tide is going out which does help me as the day goes on. However, soon I come
to a stretch of the coast that’s quite rocky. There are no sand dunes here on
this (one mile) section and the local farmer has done such a brilliant job with his
barbed wire fencing, meaning I can’t even run in the fields. I have no
alternative but to climb through and over the rocks and stones which seems to take ages.
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| Great to have this long beach to run on |
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| Brian loves the waves |
Inishkea Islands
I’ve had a fascination with these two islands for about 20 years, even before I knew exactly where Inishkea was. My curiosity came from the fact that these twin islands seemed to buck the trend as regards the population decreasing after the famine. The potato blight never reached Inishkea. The islanders also had a great skill and tradition of fishing. In the early 20th century when other areas had high emigration a Norwegian whaling station brought employment to Inishkea. However the presence of the station caused tension between the two islands, because it is said that all the jobs went to the south islanders and the north islanders were left with just the foul smell!
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| On our way to Inishkea South Island |
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| Brian gets a chance to drive the boat |
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| Deserted village on Inishkea Island |
Maureen, Brian and I were delighted to be able to visit Inishkea South on the Tuesday. Yes I resisted the temptation to run around the island although it would have been quite an easy challenge. For our trip we were blessed with a beautiful day and a lovely calm see crossing. The island (Inishkea South) was everything I wished for. We had four hours to explore it all and enjoy our picnic in this magical Atlantic isle! The ruins of the old houses still remain and it was easy to imagine hundreds of villagers living here just a century ago.
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| At the tower on Inishkea Island |
Meanwhile I continue my Wednesday run on the west side of the Mullet mainland. I keep an eye on the Inishkea Islands across the sea as I run to the very end of the long beach. I then take a trail that joins up with the country road and after a steep climb, pass through the village of Glais.
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| From Glais looking back to beach I ran on |
After
the great storm in 1927, most of the Inishkea islanders were relocated to this
area. I also noticed a place nearby on the map called ‘An Baile Nua’ (new town).
Stage 54
Co. Mayo: Mullet Peninsula: Tra Deirbhile to Clogher
Monday 12 July 2021
I completed this section in the early morning, skipping the cooked breakfast again and arranged to meet Maureen and Brian later on at Tra Deirbhile. I started at the B&B (Bru Chlann Lir) near Clogher and completed this section clockwise (with the sea on my left) for a change. I had two tough days of running so I was struggling to get moving at all today. The weather didn’t help as it was a dull morning. Just as I did on Saturday, I headed down to Tra Mullach Rua. When I got to the beach I ran south this time and then later I re-joined the main road.
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| At Blacksod Pier with Gov Minister & officials in background |
As I was running down to Blacksod Pier I noticed a group of people gathered there. I thought that maybe word had got around that I was running around the Mullet peninsula. Unfortunately, the small crowd were not there to greet me. They were waiting for a government minister, Jack Chambers to arrive as there are plans to open up the Blacksod Lighthouse as a museum. I got talking to a freelance journalist, Tom Reilly (from Takemeschnap) who, having time to kill before the minister arrived, did a video interview with me. I told him my story and later I was able to share the video link on my Facebook page.
At Blacksod I spot a memorial garden nearby with the names of hundreds of emigrants who left Mayo for America after the famine. It was James Tuke, a Quaker who realised that local resources could not sustain such a large population. Tuke even travelled to Canada and the US to get in touch with potential employers and find suitable locations for the emigrant families. The scheme was successful but only lasted for two years (1882 to 1884) following opposition from Parnell’s IPP party and the Catholic bishops.
There is so much history here on the Mullet Peninsula and as I’m running around the coast of Ireland I’m always conscious of those who have suffered in various battles or disasters.
However, when something happens in more recent times it’s more difficult to refer to it. On 14 March 2017, a rescue helicopter had completed the medical evacuation of an injured fisherman 250 kilometres west of Blacksod. On returning to the Mullet peninsula the aircraft crashed into a high island called Blackrock Island, about 17km west of Mullet.
(On our boat trip to the Inishkea islands we actually saw the cone shaped Blackrock Island from a distance).
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| View of Blackrock Island from boat trip to Inishkea |
Sadly, all four crew members on board, Dara Fitzpatrick, Mark Duffy, Paul Ormsby, and Ciarán Smith died. Although Blackrock Island was registered in the craft's GPS mapping system it wasn’t registered on the aircraft’s EGPWS system.
Captain Shivnen spoke at the service of Paul Ormsby whose body was never recovered. He quoted a verse written by Fergus Sweeney (grandson of the afore mentioned, Maureen & Ted Sweeney) that Fergus had written for a previous memorial at Blacksod lighthouse.
“You are a rumble in the sky: you are a flickering star: you are hope in the darkness’’
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| Plaque at Blacksod Pier in their memory |
It’s amazing that Blacksod and the Mullet peninsula has a connection to the D Day Landings. In 1944 Maureen and Ted Sweeney, who were based at the local weather station in Blacksod Bay, were first to forecast a severe Atlantic storm, which led to a change of plan in one of the world's biggest military operations. Maureen Sweeney is now over 100 years ago and was honoured in 2021 at Tí Aire nursing home in Belmullet where she lives. She received a ‘USA House of Representatives’ award that is very rarely given. Maureen likes to tell the story about that day in 1944.
‘A lady with a distinct English accent requested me to ‘'please check. please repeat’’. We checked and rechecked and the figures were the same both times. They had it all worked out to the nearest detail, but our weather report put the first spoke in the wheel. They would have gone ahead and the invasion would have been a complete disaster. There they were, with thousands of aircraft which couldn't tolerate low cloud. They could arrange everything, but they couldn’t pre-arrange the weather! We were delighted we put them on the right road. We eventually had the final say.'
Another interesting fact about Blacksod Bay is that Tom McClean arrived here in July 2019 after rowing across the Atlantic, becoming the first man to do this single handed. It took him 70 days from Newfoundland.
As the government minister arrives at Blacksod Pier, I decide it’s time for me to leave. I backtrack up the road and take a left towards Tra Deirbhile. It’s quite foggy along here so not much to see at the Deirbhile’s Well viewing point. Legend says Saint Deirbhile travelled here to this part of Mayo to escape a lover. Yes you can’t get much further away than this corner of the Mullet Peninsula! I keep running until I see a sign for Tra Deirbhile. It’s a nice south facing beach and I’m glad to soak my feet in the salty water until Maureen and Brian arrive.
Total coastal circle of Mullet Peninsula: 116.7km or 72.5miles
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