Sunday, 28 July 2019

Stages 33-35: Ardara to Killybegs 26-28 July 2019: SW Donegal

Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and once a month since Feb 2017.

"Look down on Glencolmcille, its mountain, sea and shore and wonder at such beauty that nature has allowed" (from A Destiny of Dreams by Marion McGuire)

It was like a festival of running this weekend; yes, hard work over three days but so enjoyable. I was delighted to be reunited with Sean and Helen, Sean for all three stages and Helen for the toughest day (climb over Slieve League) on the Saturday and for some of the run on Sunday.


Stage 33: Friday 26 July 2019: Ardara to Glencolmcille – 32km (or 20miles)

At least the trip from Bangor was different this time and I passed through places in Fermanagh (Kesh and Pettico) that I’d never been to before. Of course I had Sean for company (and navigation) which shortened the journey.

Sean, me and the Fiddler before leaving Ardara





Taking the turn towards the Waterfall and Maghera Beach & Caves
It was just about 2.00pm when we started our run from Ardara, heading south first, as far at the turnoff signposted for Mahera Beach or An Machaire (making sure not to take the Glengesh road which would bring us too far inland!).

The first few miles of our run were relatively flat with a lovely view over Maghera Strand and across to Loughros peninsula. We then had a brief stop at the Assarnacally Waterfall after 8k and got chatting to a Berlin couple and their wee girl.
With Berlin family


Assarnacally Waterfall- 8k west of Ardara


Our run (or climb) only really began in earnest after we left the waterfall. We saw the sign, pointing down towards Maghera Beach and Caves but realised they were inaccessible as it was high tide. So instead, Sean and I put our heads down to tackle the incline ahead. When we finally reached the top of the hill we left the country road and took a right turn over a gate to join a rough trail (as per the Ordnance survey map). This part of our run was much tougher than we expected. It wasn’t long before the trail seemed to disappear and we were trampling through a bog. Eventually we got back on the ‘trail’ again or at least we saw signs pointing where we should go.
Following the Glen River

The sheep know the way
It was a little bit easier when we came to the Glen River but again there was no proper trail along by the river. We were so glad to get out the other side and pick up speed on the quiet country road which brought us all the way down to that beautiful secluded spot on the coast called Port (or ‘Pert’ as the locals seem to pronounce it!)

There was another German couple to welcome us at Port (this time from Koln) even offering us some food. I was glad to take an apple from them before Sean and I tackled the steep trail heading south (Glencolmcille Loop).
At the deserted village of Port with German couple from Koln.

Deserted Famine village at Port
















Sinking of the Sydney at Port in 1870














I had read about Port being an abandoned Famine village and we could indeed see the deserted village behind us as we climbed the hill.
As Sean and I ran (and walked) up the trail I couldn’t get the image of young barefooted families trampling this same trail over 180 years ago.    

This trail eventually led us down the hill to today’s destination, Glencolmcille.

Welcome to Glencolmcille!





Glencolmcille paid a big part in developing Christianity in Ireland and it was local boy, Columba (521-597) who established a monastery here and gave his name to the glen.  Another more recent hero of Glencolmcille is Fr. McDyer who helped build a canning factory, craft shops and the famous folk village and museum. We were most impressed with the magnificent stone map of Ireland where stone from every county in Ireland was used in building the structure.

I think Sean and I were looking forward to having a nice meal after our tough runs and climbs today. In the end we enjoyed very tasty fish and chips which we bought from a van in Glencolmcille. We then sat in the sunshine for a couple of hours, chatting to various people. It didn’t seem long before Helen and Neill arrived in their car and we all made our way to Malin Beg Hostel where we were booked in for two nights.

Deserved pints in Glencolmcille!


With Phil and Davy - thanks for Clifton donation.




























After a quick shower in the hostel we all sat around a nice fire. When someone asked Frank the owner of the hostel, ‘Is there Wi-Fi here’, he replied ‘No we talk here’ and so we did talk, chatting to other residents and enjoying a few glasses of wine around the fire. To cap it all, Helen even made a birthday cake for me. Yes, definitely one of the most enjoyable birthdays of my 61 years! 

Still not too old to be celebrating a birthday!




Stage 34: Saturday 27 July 2019: Glencolmcille to Teelin (via Malinbeg and Sleeve League) – 27km (or 17miles)

It was an early enough start today at Malinbeg Hostel. We had to pick my car up, which was still in Ardara, so we decided to go on a bit further north to Portnoo and do the new parkrun there. In any case we had to collect Valerie who was staying the weekend at her caravan in Portnoo. We were delighted that Valerie was going to join us for Stage 34 today.
Helen and Valerie at Narin parkrun
Neill showing how to take corner at parkrun
It was a beautiful morning when we arrived in Portnoo and running a parkrun on the beach (Narin Strand) was a great way to start the day. There was such a lovely friendly holiday atmosphere there on the strand. Afterwards Valerie and Philip invited us back to their caravan for breakfast (wheaten bread and banana bread). We appreciated this as we had a long day ahead!

Tipp girl, Valerie - pointing out her county
Leaving Glencolmcille

From Malinbeg - looking across at Rathlin O'Birne island
By the time we got back to Glencolmcille (to begin Stage 34) it was almost 12.00 noon. So, there were five of us today (Helen, Neill, Valerie, Sean and me) on our own ‘Mountain of Adventure’! It was a nice 10k run first before we reached Malinbeg, although Helen pointed out that it wasn’t all downhill to Malinbeg (as I had mentioned!). We were glad to stop at the hostel at Malinbeg and had some drinks there before we tackled the cliffs of Slieve League.
Frank at the hostel advised us to take a left at the crossroads and then the first right. (PS Thanks Frank for Clifton donation!) The small boreen turned to a trail but even when the path disappeared, it was easy enough terrain to run or walk on.
At Silver strand


Five go on a Mountain of Adventure!










Also, the weather was in our favour today; dry and sunny with hardly a puff of wind. Over the last few weeks I had thought so much about this stage (and even worried about the safety aspect of it) and now I knew everything would be ok! We had marvellous views from the beginning, first looking down on Silver Strand beach and later the spectacular Slieve League cliffs stretched out before us. These cliffs are not as famous as the Cliffs of Moher but are three times higher and much more spectacular.
Valerie flying down the hills



The start of the big climb

Still climbing!
It was a tough ascent and the legs were tired after yesterday - not to mention the 15k we already ran this morning! Still we kept climbing and climbing, over a few false summits and finally we reached the top, 600 metres above sea level! Strava recorded this steepest part as 256 metres climb in just one kilometre!
At the top of Sleeve League - 600 metres above sea level!
Tackling Slieve League from this side is truly amazing. We only met two people along the way and the best was still yet to come. The famous ‘One Man’s Pass’ was now stretching out in front of us. On a day like today it was quiet safe to walk along this narrow ridge on the top of Donegal.  


One Man's Pass - Sean leading the way


One Woman confident on One Mans Pass!

Perfect conditions today
We began to meet a few more people and we could even run again now… well some of the way.
View of Ben Bulben, Co. Sligo from Sleeve League


It was still a long way down but we were able to stick to the coast and eventually the coastal path led us all the way to the village of Teelin.

When we lost Sean!

Here he is admiring the view!

 At Teelin we took a right turn and ran the 2k down to the end of the pier, looking across at Kilcar on the other side. Apparently Teelin was one of the first settlements in Ireland, as it was a very important port in days gone by. We left the pier and retraced our steps back to Teelin again and as we reached the Rusty Mackerel pub, Valerie’s husband Philip and dog Pip were there to greet us. Drinks and food followed and we sat around and chatted in the evening sunshine. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day!          
Arriving at the Rusty Mackerel in Teelin




Stage 35: Sunday 28 July 2019: Teelin to Killybegs 26km (or 16.2 miles)
Leaving Rusty Mackerel again!

We weren’t as lucky with the weather today, although it didn’t rain properly until we were almost in Killybegs. Helen and Neill joined us for some of the way and turned back just before we got to Kilcar. We started at the Rusty Mackerel at Teelin running north as far as Carrick and then running south along the other side of the bay. I think there might have been an opportunity to cross the river earlier (before Carrick) but we weren’t confident about that.
The view across to Teelin pier from other side of bay 

Making sure we're going the right way.
It usually takes Sean a while to get going in the mornings and as Helen and I powered on (and Neill sprinted miles ahead) we somehow ‘lost’ Sean not long after we left Carrick. (Oh and we lost him yesterday too!) As Helen recited later ‘he took the high road and we took the low road’. I eventually was reunited with Sean at Kilcar just before the Gaelic pitches (home to the McHughs and McBreartys). I should mention that when we got to the main street in Kilcar, we made a sharp right turn to stay by the coast. 
Saying goodbye to Helen with Donegal flag.
And so, we said goodbye to Helen and Neill who made their way back to Teelin. Meanwhile Sean and I then tackled the steep coastal road. At the top we had perfect views back to Sleeve League and ahead to St. Johns Point.
At Tra Bhan and Muckross Head

Another German couple from Stuttgart
Sean and I decided then to run out the 2k country road to Muckross Point. At the point there were some rock climbers and we met two more German people, this time from Stuttgart.
On the way back from Muckross Point we saw a sign ‘Memory Lane’ outside a house. The sign said, ‘Call in for the craic’ and so we did! At the back of the house there was a lovely little tearoom with a half door. A young lady called Laura greeted us. 

Back to school!

With Laura at Memory Lane

Laura's grandfather's cart - over 500 years old!
The small tearoom had beautiful little ornaments, an old school desk and a lovely fireplace. Over the fireplace was a picture of an elderly lady. Laura explained that this was her grandmother, Annie Murphy who died recently. It was her grandmother’s dream to have a little tearoom to welcome visitors. Sean and I enjoyed our tea and fruit cake. It was the perfect place to stop as we were more than half-way into today’s run.
Looking down on Pier near Rualach

Are we there yet?
We were still able to continue along the quiet country road for another few miles but eventually we did have to come out onto the main road. Still the road sign said only 7km to Killybegs. We had to be careful along this busy, windy road. Also, the rain started but this didn’t deter Sean who was now getting his second wind! Strava recorded kilometre no. 80 and 82 (of a total of 85k over the weekend) as the fastest two at 4.48 and 4.46 mins per km. As we were making our way down to the harbour to finish today’s run these song words song were going through my head ‘the boys of Killybegs are rolling home’. And so we were … the adventure continues in south Donegal at the end of August.  
The boys of Killybegs are home!
     

Total distance to date: 1,411k (882miles)

Next Stages: Killybegs to Dunkineely (via St. John’s Point) and Dunkineely to Donegal Town – weekend of 24-26 August 2019

Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308


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