Stage 12 (the bits I missed): Fair Head, Co. Antrim: Murlough Bay to Ballycastle: Sat. 13 June 2020

Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and ONCE a month since Feb 2017.

 ‘’Take my body back with you and let it lie in the old churchyard in Murlough Bay’’ (Roger Casements last wish before he was executed)

 Yes another bit I missed when I did Stage 12 back in January 2018.

All to ourselves - enjoying the 'Dark Hedges'

It turned out to be another beautiful day! We left Bangor, Co. Down at about 10.30am and drove to north Antrim. Maureen, our sons (Matthew and Brian) and I decided to stop off in Armoy (about 10k south of Ballycastle) at the ‘Dark Hedges’ made famous by the drama ‘Game of Thrones’. It was our first time here and we were privileged to be the only visitors today at the hanging trees.

Leaving the 'Dark Hedges'

Afterwards we drove on to nearby Ballycastle and then to that exact spot on the road from Tor Head where its signposted to Murlough Bay. Remember back in Jan 2018, we (Helen, Sean, Helena & me) made the decision not to risk this route because of the ice and snow! So, Maureen and the boys let me off at that junction to continue Stage 12 on my own again. 

Back at starting point

And this was at the same spot in January 2018

From there I ran all the way down the steep, narrow winding road to Murlough Bay, passing a big Cross as the lovely blue Sea of Moyle opened up in front of me. The Cross and nearby plaque was dedicated to Roger Casement.

Caseman's Cross overlooking Sea Of Moyle

Sir Roger Casement

There is a lot of discussion now about pulling down statues of slave traders’, but Casement actually fought against human rights abuses in the Congo and Peru and campaigned for the anti-slavery society. He was knighted in 1911 for his work against these atrocities. Later he became an anti-imperialist and joined the Irish Rebels. During the 1916 rebellion he tried to import arms from Germany and was dropped off in a U boat (U19) in Co. Kerry where he was captured and then hanged for high treason. Diaries indicating his homosexually were also used against him in his trial.

These words were next to the big cross.

Roger was born in Dublin but lived for quite a few years in Co. Antrim. After his hanging in 1916, he was buried in Pentonville Prison in London. His remains were eventually released by the British Government in 1965, only on condition that they could not be brought into Northern Ireland. He had a State funeral in Dublin and was buried in Glasnevin Cemetery. He never really got his dying wish ‘‘take my body back and let it lie in the old churchyard in Murlough Bay’’.

At the bottom of the hill at Murlough Bay I ran as far as the coastal path would take me (keeping the sea on my left for a change) and then turned around to face the steep climb back up again.

I'm glad I had this banana - there was tough work ahead!

Murlough Bay, Co. Antrim

Murlough Bay -as far as you can go!

 I passed the Casement Cross again and then took the first right along a track. After passing through an open gate, I took an immediate right which brought me up onto a grassy cliff-top trail called ‘Grey Man’s Path’ (well named for the man climbing it today!)

Grey Man's Path

The weather is perfect now, no sign of any rain or wind with the sun shining through. Shortly I come to the very top of Fair Head (or Benmore). I’m also only about 20km from the Scottish mainland (Mull of Kintyre) which I can easily see now to the east. 

Mull of Kintyre - only 20k away!

These steep cliffs are now very popular with rock climbers. I see two small rucksacks with a rope tied around a big boulder and the rope dropping down the vertical cliff. I’m too scared to go too close to check if I can see the climbers! 

See rope tied to boulders with rucksacks

 These ‘climbing cliffs’ have been given their own names by the rock climbers. From east to west there's the ‘small crag’, ‘main crag’, ‘farangandoo’ and ‘marconi’s cove’ which was only discovered in 1988. I dont think I've ever seen cliffs with such a vertical drop!

Probably the most vertical cliffs in Ireland!

As I circle around Fair Head, I meet a family from Lithuania out for a walk in the warm sunshine. 

Lithuania family with Rathlin only 4k behind.

It’s only about 4km across to Rathlin Island now and it was on the Island that Robert the Bruce was inspired by a struggling spider to have the ‘’tenacity to keep trying till it succeeds’’ (I’ll heed this advice later!). Further north of Rathlin, I can even see the Scottish islands of Islay and Jura. 

It’s no surprise either that Game of Thrones was filmed here and in fact in Season 7, this was the spot (here in Fair Head) where Jon Snow finally gets to meet Daenerys Targaryen (probably the two most famous characters in GOT). 

Natural bridge!

I can see Lough Crannagh, in the distance to my left, with its ‘crannog’ in the middle.

Lough Crannagh with 'cranog' in the middle

I remember from school that a ‘crannog’ is usually an artificial island built in the middle of a lake for refuge and protection from enemies. As I continue around Fair Head, I see another smaller lake to the left of me called Lough Doo (or Dhu), the black lough.

So up to now everything is going well on this beautiful day! However, it looks like ‘grey man’s path’ has come to end and so I run further inland hoping to pick up the trail again. I come to a country road and to the entrance to a farm but there’s a ‘Private Property’ notice here.

I climb over a style on the other side of the road and try to follow a path, but it doesn’t seem to lead to anywhere! I decide to backtrack to the coast again, climbing over a fence and eventually making it down to the shore. I think I see Marconi’s Cottage in the distance. I figure I will have a nice run along the coast and soon I’ll be in Ballycastle…but it’s never that easy! The lower coastal path abruptly comes to an end and so I have no alternative but to leave the coast, climb up a huge hill to try to find another trail.

Looking back at Fair Head

Maybe I came too far inland as I end up having to run through a few fields and eventually (that word ‘eventually’ that never really explains how much I suffered!) I get back onto a narrow coastal cliff-path. Now I can see Marconi’s cottage very clearly down on the shore.

 Marconi’s Cottage

This is where Marconi’s employees made the first ever wireless telegraph transmission in the world. It was between here and Rue Point on Rathlin (just about 5k away). Marconi himself, the famous Italian inventor, only spent 4 days in this area, conveniently enough for him, to coincide with the annual Lammas Fair in Ballycastle!

Marconi's Cottage at last!

I thought I could stay on this cliff path all the way to Ballycastle but that also came to an abrupt end so I struggle down the hill through high grass and tree ferns to finally get to Marconi’s Cottage. I think if I was doing this run again it might be easier starting in Ballycastle at Marconi’s Cottage (there seems to be a path from the house) and doing this stretch to Fair Head with the sea on my left.

Ferry heading out to Rathlin Island

Anyway, I’m glad to be down on the shore again and now I have a nice straight run in along the coast road. I soon get down onto the beach at Ballycastle, run along the strand and Maureen and the boys are there to meet me at the point where the Glenshesk river flows into the sea……..the adventure continues!

Me arriving on Ballycastle Beach - picture taken by my son Matthew

 Total distance today was 17.3km, but I adjusted it down to 10.3km as I had already covered 7k of this stage back in January 2018.      

Total distance to date: 1,804 km (1,121 miles)

   Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308

Strangford Islands Stage 6 (the bits I missed): Strangford Islands, Co. Down. Chapel Island, Mid Island and South Island): Sat. 30 May 2020

Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and ONCE a Month since Feb 2017.

‘’The central place I call “Z” is in a valley surmounted by lofty mountains. The valley is about ten miles wide, and the city is on an eminence in the middle of it.’’ (Percy Fawcett’s letter to his son Brian about his idea of the Lost City of ‘Z’.)

Taken in our back garden (before expedition!) with sons Brian and Matthew

 Another bit I missed! Yes today I had to backtrack a bit to my adopted home county (Co. Down) to complete this wee 'missed bit' when I did Stage 6 back in July 2017.

Just before heading across the sands to Mid Island

Today was a walk (rather than run) and I was delighted to be joined by my two sons Matthew (who has just finished university) and Brian (who attends Clifton Special School.) Since the lockdown in March, the weather has been warm and sunny and today was no exception. We decided to tackle these islands, starting our walk from a small car park just south of Greyabbey on Strangford Lough. 

Yes looked like we were walking on water!

In front of Mid Island

Also, we thought it was wise to set out on our journey about 90 minutes before low tide. At the car park in Greyabbey we could already see across the sands to a small cottage on Mid Island. There was no causeway from here, so we just headed in the direction of the white-washed cottage, getting our feet wet as we plodded through the sand and puddles until we reached Mid Island.

Will McAvoy's cottage on Mid Island

Mid-Island

Previously known as North Island and sometimes called Mid Isle. It was home to the Ulster-Scots poet Will McAvoy who lived in the cottage on the island - sometimes Will goes back to give poetry sessions. The island even became more famous recently as Brad Pitt’s movie ‘The Lost City of Z’ was partly filmed here. This film was about the explorer Percy Fawcett who really became obsessed with finding the ‘Lost City’ in the Amazon Jungle. On his eighth and final expedition in 1925 he was joined by his 22 year old son (same age as my son, Matthew!). Their last known communication was on 29 May 1925 (95 years ago yesterday) and the pair were never seen again. Fawcett’s other younger son, Brian who remained in England, spent most of his life trying to find his father and brother.

Matthew and Brian on Mid Island

l can now report that my two sons and I survived our own expedition to the three Strangford islands! Once we got to the cottage on Mid-Island, we took a left turn along the shore and walked along the track until we came to the causeway that took us over to South Island. Mid Island seems to have lots of vegetation/trees but South Island is like one big open field, perfect for grazing (on a lovely sunny day like today) with its thick, lush grass, although we didn’t see any cows or sheep. 

Crossing causeway from Mid Island to South Island

South Island

When we arrived on South Island we took a left turn immediately and then circled the whole island. We thought, when we got to the back (western side) of the island, we could then cut across to Chapel Island but we realised that with soft mud and sand that it was much more practical (and quicker) to come back to the same causeway again that we took from Mid Island. We then walked around the other side of Mid Island (keeping the sea on our left) and eventually we could see Chapel Island in the distance.

Matthew and Brian as we approached Chapel Island 

I was glad I had my son Matthew with me. Sometimes it was tough with difficult terrain and our shoes got so wet along the way but Brian, in fairness to him, seemed content and never complained (or never seemed to get tired) all day.

Once we rounded Mid Island we could see Chapel Island in the distance. There was no causeway from this side, so it was just a matter of ploughing through the sand, rocks and pools of water. We knew we were heading in the direction of the long island which we presumed (correctly!) was Chapel Island. I gave Brian and Matthew some celery and carrots and we munched these as we walked along. I was a bit concerned about the tide as it was now exactly low tide at 11.45am. In hindsight I need not have worried and I think we would have been ok even two hours each side of low tide.

Brian on Chapel Island

Chapel Island

As we got closer to Chapel Island, we veered to the left through the muddy rock pools so that we would arrive on the island on the southern side. We didn’t expect to see an actual chapel on the island but nevertheless it is disappointing to see just a small broken wall of stones where I presume the church had once been! 

All that remains of the chapel on Chapel Island

Matt and Brian on Chapel Island with Scrabo Tower behind

In any case this was the perfect location to either pray or just sit and contemplate life in general. Of course, here right in the middle of Strangford Lough, we are very close to Nendrum (just over a mile across to the other side of the lough) where Saint Mahee had his monastery (on Mahee Island). No doubt the saint and his fellow monks were regular visitors to the chapel here. Matthew and Brian were happy too that we finally had our picnic with (360 degree) views of the Mournes, Scrabo tower and other islands on the lough.

Still we didn’t delay too long as we were conscious that the ‘tide was turning’ and we still had to walk back the full length of the island (almost one mile long) before then taking to the wet sands again. 

On leaving Chapel Island it looked like there was a kind of causeway to follow but it seemed to disappear after about 50 metres.

Leaving Chapel Island

In any case Matthew suggested we walk towards the right (easterly directly) so that we could return to our car quicker. Soon we were back on the mainland and when we reached an old pier, we climbed up the embankment.

Heading home!

Here we found a nice country trail and we were able to walk on it along by the shore. 

That trail soon faded away but shortly we could see the cottage on Mid Island again and soon we were back (where we started) at the car park in Greyabbey and enjoying another (well deserved!) picnic in the warm sunshine. Stage 6 is now complete ...........and the adventure continues!

Total distance today 10.3 km or 6.4 miles      

Total distance to date: 1,748 km (1,086 miles)

Next Stage: County Mayo: Ballina to Killala: Saturday 22 August

Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308

STAGES 45&46 Ballysadare to Ballina                        

                        Stage 45

                        

                                Co. Sligo: Ballysadare to Dromore West

                                            Saturday 14 March 2020

                                                40.3 km or 25 miles

 

‘She bid me take love easy, as the leaves grow on the tree;

But I, being young and foolish, with her would not agree’. (Salley Gardens by WB Yeats)

STAGE 45-46: At the Salley Gardens pub in Ballysadare

I’m travelling on my own this weekend as we were worried about taking Brian away, especially in these worrying times of the Coronavirus. I drove down on the Friday evening, staying two nights in the lovely ‘Twin Trees’ hotel in Ballina. There is an eerie atmosphere in the hotel and I even spotted one guest wearing a face mask.

I started today's run in Ballysadare (town of the waterfall of the oak) where the song ‘Salley Gardens’ originated. You could say WB Yeats co-wrote it. He said it was an ‘attempt to reconstruct a song that he heard an old peasant lady singing in Ballisodare’. I was lucky too that I was able to depend on public transport this weekend as I was travelling between Connacht’s second largest town (Sligo) and the fourth largest (Ballina).



Crossing Ballysadare River 

Ballysadare was originally a major gathering place for all surrounding districts and Saint Columba visited here in 575 AD  'where all the prelates of the neighbouring regions, and vast numbers of holy men and women had come to meet him’. ’Also, another famous saint, Féichín was born in the townland of Billa in the parish of Ballysadare. 

Leaving Ballysadare I ran along the main Ballina road for about 2km until I came to the sign for Streamstown (at the church and crossroads) and took a right turn. 

Coming back up from Streamstown with Ox Mountains ahead

This was a quiet country road with Ben Bulben still visible in the distance and as the boreen looped around again, the Ox mountains (or Slieve Gamph) came into view. I came back onto the main road again and soon arrived in the village of Beltra (Strand at the Mouth). Strangely too, for some reason, there’s a crater on Mars called Beltra!

View from Streamstown

In Irish mythology, the Firbolg King met his death here after the first Battle of Moytura. 

About 1km after Beltra, I took another right, signposted ‘Coast Road’. I followed this road for about 2km until I came to a crossroads and then I took a right towards Portavaud down to the shore at ‘Gallyhouse Strand’. Here I spotted a man on crutches coming out of the water with seaweed over his legs. I got talking to him (Rodney) and he explained that he had a biking accident and heard that seaweed was a good remedy. I had read too this area was famous for harvesting seaweed. 

Rodney having a seaweed bath!

Rodney and Dell Boy (me!)

The weather now turned wet and miserable as I circled Portavaud Point at the end of the peninsula. Lots of sheep in this area and all protecting their young (just born) lambs.

Sheep protecting new born lamb

I turned back from the Point and carried on running along the shore. However, there were only rocks on the coast now (it was high tide which didn’t help!) so I had to run inland, through a few muddy fields and getting caught in thorny bushes. I was able to get down on the shore again and eventually I spotted a house which led me onto a country road (Derk Road). It was still raining as I made my way up to a T junction where I took a right turn. I continued running on this road for about 2km until I saw the sign for Dunmoran Strand. 

Dromoran Beach

When I arrived on this beautiful beach I was soaked to the skin and I hesitated as I wasn’t sure if I could continue along the shore all the way to Aughris. I debated with myself whether I’d be better following a country road instead. In the end I decided to risk it on the beach and it paid off. (I was probably lucky that the tide was half-way out).

Crossing bridge between Dromoran and Aughris

It was a sometimes a rocky shore but soon I got through it and I was well rewarded as there was a pub (the Beach Bar) at the end. I decided to call into the pub and had a nice pot of tea while my clothes dried by the fire! (I was surprised there were so many people in the pub with all the warnings about the Coronavirus!) 

The Beach Bar at Aughris

Anyway, I got talking to a couple of guys in the ‘Beach Bar’ asking them for directions to Easkey and Dromore West. They assured me I’d reach my destination in ‘no time at all’. I’m always amazed in these situations how non-runners in a pub can over-estimate how fast you can run!

Aughris Pier

After leaving the ‘Beach Bar’, the rain came down again. I soldiered on, following the coast road towards Easkey. I knew the Ballina-Sligo bus only ran every two hours so I was trying to make sure I would get the 2.30 bus from Easkey (or 2.45 from Dromore West). As I got closer to Dromore West I realised I wouldn’t make it on time to Easkey so I left the coast road (just before the big hill) and arrived soaked to the skin in the village of Dromore West.

The sign for Easkey!

At the bus stop in Dromore West I called into a café and ordered a coffee. I had barely got my drink when the bus arrived to take me back to Ballysadare. Luckily, I had spare clothes in my car. It was probably my wettest coastal run since crossing the Foyle Bridge in Derry at the end of Stage 15 back in March 2018.    

                                                     Stage 46

                        

                                Dromore West, Co. Sligo to Ballina, Co. Mayo

                                            Sunday 15 March 2020

                                                48.4 km or 30 miles

  

     

Thankfully it was a much nicer day today. I decided it would be more practical to do this run clockwise (or with the sea on my left-hand side) and then get the bus back to Ballina from Dromore West. I am depending on public transport this weekend so I had to make this practical decision. Before I left Ballina, I got talking to Rachel (Manager of Twin Trees Hotel) where I stayed and she kindly donated 50 Euro to Clifton School. Thank you, Rachel! I really appreciated that, as the following day all hotels in the country were closed due to the coronavirus and Rachel (and her business) probably needed the money more than Clifton School.

With Rachel, Manager of Twin Trees Hotel

Leaving Ballina, I followed the river Moy all the way towards the sea. Years ago, I remembered going to a pub along by the river to hear Jazz music on a Sunday morning, but it was very quiet here today.

Leaving Ballina with river Moy on my left

Half way between Ballina and Inishcrone

When I reached Inishcrone, I took a left turn across a field (at the ‘Pig’ statute and the ‘Diamond Coast Hotel’), ran along a stream and circled the whole Golf Course.

The Pig at Inishcrone that was 'possessed by an evil spirit and ate everyone it encountered'!

Eventually I got down onto the beach from the golf course and ran along this strand for miles, with Bartragh Island now so close on my left. 

American couple walking on Inishcrone beach

Keeping our distance - only selfies today!

It turned out to be a beautiful day and even at high tide, Inishcrone was such a lovely beach to run on. I passed the seaweed baths and then along a road and trail after that ….but then the road abruptly ended at the coast! I decided to rough it along here, crossing through fields and climbing under (and over) electric fences! I did eventually find a country road that brought me back onto the R297 road.

A famous writer in 1670 who died from wounds he received in protecting a woman from insults!

I kept running on the main road and after about 3km, and just after the sign for Leaffoney School, I took a left turn at the L6409 at the Cabragh river. I followed this road down towards the coast, taking a left turn towards Pullaheeney Harbour just before the Harbour Bar. 

When I reached Pullaheeney Pier I expected the road to continue along the coast (as it did on the Ordnance map!) but there didn’t seem to be any road north of the pier. I got talking to a young couple in their car and they also wondered where the road had gone! It turned out that some sand and rocks from the sea had covered the road over the years. 

The road taken by the sea!

But still marked clearly on map!

I carried on running over the rocks and after about 1km, I found the road again. When it eventually turned inland, I came to a junction with two left turns. I took the second left not really sure where it would lead to, but I knew it was down towards the coast.  When I got to the shore there was no coastal path but I decided to rough it along the coast. There was a lower cliff shelf that I was able to run on and I carried on along here, reaching the headland at Lenadoon Point. 

Running on cliff shelf at Lenadoon Point

Wild Atlantic at Lenadoon Point

With all talk about the Coronavirus, the term ‘self-isolation’ is being used a lot now. No danger of me catching any virus as I was completely on my own along this part of the Atlantic coast. I think it was at a place called Brownstown, where the Finned River flows into the sea, that I eventually left the coast. It was about 2.30 at this stage and the sign said Easkey was 3km.

Welcome To Easkey (which means Fish in English)

Quiet men in Easkey

I was so glad to arrive here as I hadn’t eaten or drank anything since 9.00 this morning. I stopped briefly in Easkey (refuelling!) but I was conscious that I needed to be in Dromore West to make the 3.50 bus back to Ballina. Just after passing Easkey I took a left turn signposted to Easkey Beach and followed the coast road for a while and then came back onto the R297 again.

Almost there but I took the coast road which made it 9km!

I just made it to Dromore West on time and was one of only two passengers on the bus to Ballina. So now I’ve reached Co. Mayo. With talk of lockdowns on the news it’s hard to know when exactly my next coastal run will take place, but the adventure will definitely continue!