Stage 92-94: West Clare Coast: Doolin to Cross: Easter Weekend 2024: 111km (69 miles) of coastal running.

Such a great weekend of running over the Easter weekend with the best of company - and no rain apart from one short shower on Saturday. 

Stage 92: Co. Clare: Doolin to Spanish Point: Good Friday 29 March 2024:45.67km or 28.38miles 

‘'With bones of Burren marrow shared blood of Connemara, we’re just making sand out here’ from ‘Making Sand’ by Padraig Jack 

Doolin Pier to Spanish Point via Cliffs of Moher

I’m blessed again this morning to have a great bunch of runners with me. There are eight of us today. That is the biggest number I’ve had with me since there were eleven of us on the Donaghadee to Belfast section back in September 2017. It’s an early start from Oranmore as Donald, Helen and I must make the trip to Spanish Point first and drop off a car there. We still make it back in time to Doolin Pier for 9.30am. Helen has also brought along her two fit teenage children, Holly, and James. Also, another couple of runners from North Down, Steve and Alison Wise, join our team. Finally, our young local runner Roisin Howley from Kilfenora is back to guide us on our adventure. 

Today's team of eight 

Leaving Doolin Village

Doolin is the traditional music capital of the world and closest point to the Aran Islands with the smallest one, Inis Oirr only about 10km across the bay. From the pier we follow the coastal trail which takes us on a muddy track leading to the famous Cliffs of Moher. 

Following the coastal path to the cliffs

Alison & Roisin

Alison knows the trick to stop from falling

It’s turning out to be a beautiful clear morning with amazing views across to the Aran Islands and even further north to Connemara. We still need to concentrate as there are quite a few electric fences on the trail, as young James will testify! After getting a shock, he was dramatically thrown across the path. Meanwhile his Mum slips in the mud!

However, Helen has a slight fall

As we get closer to the famous cliffs we meet more and more tourists. However, I think we’ve had a much nicer approach to the Cliffs Of Moher. When we reach the cliffs, Roisin takes us down to see ‘Aileen’s Wave’, a famous location for surfers. Only the very experienced tackle these wave breaks known as ‘Aill Na Searrach’ (the leap of the foals). 

Roisin & Donald make their way down the lower cliffs

I get chatting to Hannah from Finland

We stop at O’Brien’s Tower Observation Tower and its here we lose half of our group. No, they didn’t fall over the cliffs! We had planned that Alison, Steve, Holly and James would not run all the way to Spanish Point and this was a good stop off point for them. From here they got the bus back to Doolin. Meanwhile Helen, Roisin, Donald, and I continue on the path towards Hags Head, where the cliffs form an unusual rock formation resembling an old woman looking out to sea.

Roisin meets her cousin, busking at Cliffs Of Moher

 For a short while along here, we recruit another runner called Dylan. He is from NW America and despite running in his blue jeans he can stay with us for a couple of miles.     

Dylan joins us for a while

We leave the cliffs (and Dylan) and have a pleasant run downhill where we join some country roads, trying to stay as close to the coast as possible. We arrive in the village of Liscannor. The most famous person to have lived here is John Philip Holland. The Doolin musician, Micho Russell explains in song why this man was so celebrated.

Come all you young Irishmen who walk upon the land,

There are feats indeed, and fairy creeds, that you might understand:

There is one of them that comes to mind, the likes were never seen,

He was John Philip Holland who invented the submarine.

 On the road from Liscannor to Lahinch, Roisin keeps us safe and makes sure we’re not tempted to go down on the shore and cross the marshy Inagh River. Instead, we cross at O’Brien’s Bridge and as we get to the other side of the river, we have a pleasant surprise. Roisin’s sister Grainne has come to join us on Lahinch beach where we have the perfect low tide to run on the sand. 

At Clahane, west of Liscannor

 

Roisin touching the horseshoes (for good luck) on O'Brien's Bridge

In Percy French’s song about the West Clare Railway, he writes ‘At Lahinch, the sea shines like a jewel’ and with today’s beautiful weather the sea does shine. In July 1976 I worked for a fruit company, aptly called ‘West Coast’. They purchased fruit from Dolans in Galway where my father was manager and delivered it to various shops along the west coast of Clare. During that lovely summer I discovered the Burren and Co. Clare in all its beauty. We used to stop off at various delivery points along the coast and we always reached Lahinch in the afternoon. During that summer Co. Clare looked glorious and this adventure has reminded me of its charm.  

Great that Grainne (Roisin's sister) joins us

Back in 2024, Grainne who’s recovering from an injury, runs with us and helps us reach the town. It’s been a long morning over rough terrain and has taken us over four hours to get here – and we still have 17km to go. Roisin takes us into the Leisure Centre in Lahinch where everyone seems to know her. We get some drinks and snacks here – refuelling for the runners.

Roisin struggles to reach the ledge!

After we leave Lahinch, we must stick to the main road which is quite tricky with some sharp bends. Then we have quite a climb up to Dromin Hill which has an historical significance as it was here that a famous ambush was planned in September 1920. The attack was by the ‘Irish Volunteers of the Mid Clare Brigade’ in revenge for one of their men, Michael Devitt, been executed by the British forces. We pass the Ambush Memorial on our left and 200 metres further we take a right down to the shore, signposted Freagh Graveyard (L6268). On the shore we pass ‘Suaimhneas Saunas’ (Serenity Saunas). Helen is hinting that we should stop our run here, but we convince her to continue with us for the last few kilometres. To keep us all going Donald continues to hand out some more wine gums.

We’re close to Milltown Malbay and Roisin tells us about the Willie Clancy traditional festival where all musicians from all over the world come to this area. Willie played the melodious uilleann pipes and the annual event has been running since his death in 1973.

We take a right turn and join a quieter road, the R482. I think we all struggled over the last few miles and we’re so relieved to finally arrive at Spanish Point. We dip our tired feet in the water and relax in the sunshine. Later back in Doolin we reunite the team in O’Connor’s Pub and enjoy fish & chips, and some Guinness. Stage 92 completed.

Dipping our feet in water at our finish line in Spanish Point

 

Back in O'Connor's Pub in Doolin with rest of team

Stage 93: Co. Clare: Spanish Point to Kilkee: Easter Saturday 30 March 2024: 43.25km or 26.87miles

"Whatever adventure you have, believe in yourself and be willing to take some risks. I had to come back three times – I believed that it was possible." (Jasmin Paris, the first woman to complete the Barkley Marathons)

Spanish Point to Kilkee

I have a new team with me today. My sons, Conor and Matthew join me, and Donald is back for more west Clare running. Meanwhile Steve, Alison, Helen, Holly and James catch the ferry over to Inis Meain to do the parkrun. Inis Meain is the middle one of the three Aran Islands, and the parkrun doesn’t start until 11.00am to give people time to get the ferry across. (I think it is the only parkrun in Ireland or UK that doesn’t start at 9.00 or 9.30).

North Down AC runners visit the Aran Islands

Back on the mainland, Donald, Conor, Matthew, and I drive from Oranmore to Spanish Point to begin today’s run. On my coastal journey around Ireland, I have referred so many times to the Spanish Armada. The year was 1588 and after losing the battle of Gravelines in the English Channel the Spanish Navy were chased up the east side of the English coast. They decided that the safest way to return to Spain was to take the long route around Scotland and Ireland. When the Armada reached Co. Donegal, their main difficulties began. In Kinnagoe Bay in Inishowen and near Gowla Island in west Donegal two of their boats sank. At Streedagh Strand in Sligo three ships crashed. In Mayo and Galway more boats were lost and in Co. Clare there were further disasters. It was the 16th century; navigation aids were not great, and the Spanish ships were met with unusually strong Atlantic winds. Only 66 ships of 130 arrived safely back to Spain.

Starting run in Spanish Point with Conor & Daniel

Back in the 21st century we run on the beach for a short while but then must hop onto the coastal road for about 2km and then take a right turn towards the coast. We can see on the OS map that the boreen connects to a trail along the shore but when we reach the trail it’s covered in big rocks. We clambered over so many boulders and rocks today and this was probably the main reason why today’s stage took so long. We stay by the shore, roughing it along grassy terrain to Emlagh Point until we come to Quilty. There is a coastal road that we stay on until we spot Seafield Pier. We run to the pier, and we are now at the closest point to Mutton Island.

At Seafield Pier, near where San Marcos sunk

It was at this exact point on 20^th September 1588 that the Spanish Ship the ‘San Marcos’ sunk. On the same day the ‘San Estban’ ran aground further south, off White Strand near Doonbeg. In total 630 drown from both Armada Ships and only 74 men survived. By orders of Sir William Fitzwilliam, who was Lord Deputy of Ireland, the young sailors were taken to what is now, Spanish Point and executed there. Interestingly Fitzwilliam was also Governor of Fotheringhay Castle in Northampton, and he supervised the execution of Mary, Queen of Scots who spent her last days there and was beheaded in the castle’s great hall. At Spanish Point, it is understood that there is a mass grave (big enough for all 700 bodies) located on the northern shore of Bealaclugga Bay on the geographical headland of Spanish Point.

John, Paul, George & Ringo

Donald has magic touch with horses

At Seafield Pier we stay by the shore and attempt to run on a rough beach. It’s called Tromoro Castle Bay Beach on google maps. There are more boulders on the shore, but we continue trying to find the sandy parts. It’s around here that we suffer the only rain shower of the whole weekend. As it happens, we’re running through an open field with absolutely no protection when the rain comes. It lasts about ten minutes but later as we run along against the southerly wind, we begin to dry out. We pass Lough Donnell on our left side and the water is gushing down from the lake creating various streams and rivers that we struggle to cross over. 

Running on Doughmore Beach

We come back on a country road again for a short while that brings us down to the shore and to the long Doughmore Beach. This is much better and although we’re running into a strong southerly wind, we have no obstacles on this strand. There are signs here saying ‘dangerous for bathing’ because of strong rip currents. However, it’s perfect ‘sand for the runner’ in the low tide. Inland from the beach is the famous Doonbeg Golf Course now owned by Donald Trump. The joining fee for the Golf Club would set you back €20,000 while annual fees are €3,675. 

Crossing river at Doughmore

On the west side of Doughmore strand we must decide whether we cross a shallow but wide river or alternatively run 1km inland and rejoin the N67. Even though it’s low tide we still know we will get our feet wet. We discuss the situation. It’s too cold to take off our shoes and socks off so we just run across the fifty-metre-wide stream to the other side. We follow the shore all the way to McGrath’s Point and loop our way back towards the village of Doonbeg (small fort) 

At the small fort at Doonbeg (which means small fort)

Donald & Roisin at Doonbeg

It’s been a tough run so far and we need a break as we’ve covered 20k already over some rough ground - and we’re only about halfway to Kilkee! We meet a couple Nora and Andrew who give us a donation for Rosedale school. We also get a nice surprise on the main street in Doonbeg when we see Roisin who’s been trying to follow us on her bike. We all call into Morrissey’s Pub, which is partly owned by the rugby player, Conor Murray. I know we still have a long way to go so we order some light lunches. Roisin and Donald have the Seafood Chowder and Conor and I have Crab Tostadas. They are delicious. It’s the perfect light lunch and we drink plenty of water too.

At Doonmore Castle

Checking the map 

We continue from Doonbeg, Roisin joining us on her bike as far as the castle and pier at Doonmore (big fort). We run along the shore and meet her again at White Strand beach. We say goodbye to Roisin again as we take a very rough coastal route – more walking than running – and eventually reach the most spectacular Baltard Cliffs at Captains Hill.

Crossing the narrow wooden bridge

Conor makes it look easy

I’m so proud of my two sons, Conor and Matthew. Yes, they are a lot younger than me but neither have ever run this distance before or roughed it like we’re doing today. We climb higher and higher, with amazing views over cliffs and headlands. It feels every bit as impressive as the Cliffs of Moher, and we have it all to ourselves. Not another soul around! But hold on, we spot a lone runner in the distance. As we get closer, we recognise who it is. It’s Roisin again. She’s left her bike on some country lane and has run up to the cliffs to join us. Finally, we do say goodbye to her for the last time today. 

Conor at Baltard Cliffs

Coasting it in west Clare

We follow a boreen heading towards Donegal Point but soon come to a farmgate which is clearly marked ‘Private Property – No Entry’ and ‘Beware of the Bull’. We respect the owner’s wishes and head back down again. Conor spots a boreen with telegraph poles that seem to lead down to the shore. It’s a good decision to follow this lane and we arrive at the coast, just south of Donegal Point. I’m not sure why its called Donegal Point – definitely couldn’t ever see Donegal from here!   

We stay by the shore and clamber over a few more rocks and boulders. Eventually we come to a country road. Coincidentally it’s called the L2024 so a good year to be here. It’s a long steep climb up here and none of us are even going to even attempt to run. We’re actually passing through ‘An Cuaisin’ or Coosheen which was once an Irish speaking village. A hundred years ago there were 22 homes with over 200 people living here, all depending on the sea to make a livelihood and all speaking Irish.

Donald trying to climb under electric wire

Before we reach the N67 we follow a trail towards the coast, avoiding the main road. There are a few more electric fences to climb over and under. We pass a small farm and a few cows spot us and start to head our way. We make a wide berth around them and shortly we arrive in Kilkee golf course. No sign of any golfers and we struggle a bit to exit the course and climb over a gate. Finally, we can see the beautiful Kilkee in front of us.

In 2002 Maureen and our three boys spent a lovely week in Kilkee. This was before Brian was born and we were blessed with gorgeous weather. There was enough in the small seaside town to keep us entertained and a beautiful, sheltered beach that we visited every day. Kilkee was also the last stop on the old West Railway. In 1896 the musician Percy French wrote jokingly about the delays as he was late for a recital in the town. His song ‘Are ye right there Michael’ became popular all over Ireland with its opening lines.

‘You make talk of Columbus’s sailing across the Atlantical sea, but he never tried to go railing from Ennis as far as Kilkee’.

However, the West Clare Railway company were offended by its sentiment and decided to take him to court. When Percy French arrived for the libel hearing, the judge criticised him for his lateness. ‘Your honour, I travelled by the West Clare Railway’. The case was thrown out!

Back in 2002 we were able to go on a short steam engine trip on a restored West Clare Railway carriage. I remember the train driver referring to Percy French and how the case was dismissed. ‘He got us twice’, he said.

At the Finish line in Kilkee

We are so relieved to arrive in Kilkee. It’s been a long day. Donald spots the mural of Che Guevarra on the wall at the end of the beach. Yes, a strange face to see after a long run in the wilderness. Jim Fitzpatrick, the Irish artist painted the picture of the rebel on the sea wall in 2012. Fitzpatrick maintains his painting was a celebration of Latin American culture and part of the Kilkee ‘Che do Bheata’ festival. I had read that the local council removed it but it’s still clearly visibly today. The Argentinian born Che Guevara had been in Kilkee in 1961 after a stopover in Shannon.

Che Guevarra picture on Kilkee Strand

While waiting for our taxi, we order some chips before it arrives to take us back to Spanish Point. Those salt and vinegar flavoured chips were so delicious and tasty after our exertions today. Stage 93 completed.

 

Stage 94: Co. Clare: Kilkee to Cross: Easter Monday 1 April 2024: 21.82km or 13.56miles

Kilkee to Cross

Wherever I went in life, whatever I was doing in some tropical location or ritzy hotel I would think of the beach or the promenade in Kilkee and yearn. Every man has a spiritual home; that is mine.” (the actor and sportsman, Richard Harris)

I’m finishing off this Easter weekend with a shorter run. I’ve picked the wee village of Cross as a finish line as it will be convenient for my next run (on Saturday 4 May) where I hope to do a loop run to aptly named Loop Head.

Meeting Helen and Roisin in Kilkee

I had arranged to meet Helen on Kilkee beach at 9.30am but I got a lovely surprise when Roisin, our West Clare runner, also joined us. We decided to do today’s run clockwise (sea on our left). This was to get the rough section near Cross over at the beginning and to have the long Kilkee strand as our finish line. We drove both vehicles to Cross and left Helen’s campervan, Winnie in Cross.

Leaving Cross and heading to the coast

Donald says this picture reminds him of Father Ted getting ready to kick Bishop Brennan up the arse

It turned out to be a beautiful morning in SW Clare. We headed west from Cross and then took a trail north. We roughed it then for a couple of kilometres through bushes and under (and over) a few electric fences. It was worth it to see these more spectacular cliffs that few have seen in hundreds of years. We then rejoined a coastal boreen and that made it easier from then on. Shortly, we pass a massive sea stack sitting out in the blue ocean. It’s called Illaunonearaun or Healy’s Island.

Helen & Roisin looking across to llaunonearaun (Healy’s Island).

I really appreciate Helen and Roisin’s company today and their encouragement. My body is feeling the affects of a weekend of a running, and I’ve just passed the 100km mark over the three days. We leave the road for a short detour at Moveen towards a grassy ledge, spotting a few young fishermen. It’s a beautiful April day and 14 degrees but probably not warm enough for mackerel yet but maybe it is for pollack and coalfish.

At Moveen we ask a fisherman to take our picture while I borrow his fishing rod

Some of the best-known writers, like Charlotte Bronte and Alfred Tennyson have holidayed here and marvelled at the beauty, as we do, on this platform on the west of Europe. Bronte on her honeymoon here in 1854 said ‘such battling of waves with rocks I had never imagined’.  

Checking the map again

On we go. We pass ‘Saint Kee’s Well’ that Kilkee is called after. We spot another Sea Stack that we noticed on Saturday from Kilkee golf course. This one is called Bishops Island. When Ordnance Survey maps were first created, the island was referred to as ‘still occasionally frequented for the cure of diseases of the eye’. How you could possibly get onto the sea stack is another story. There are remains there of a sixth century monastic settlement founded by Saint Senan and that’s probably where the name, Bishop’s Island probably came from.

Shortly we come to the Kilkee Cliff Path and the three of us are able to follow this loop all the way to the Kilkee. Down on the shore Helen stops at the statue of the actor, Richard Harris. Harris was a great sportsman in his youth and shares something with Roisin. He was a strong swimmer and swam in the annual 2.5km across the bay competition. Roisin tells us about the Kilkee Bay Swim, and I can only imagine how difficult that must be with the wind and waves pushing you all over the place. 

Richard Harris points to Helen

As the three of us arrive on the strand in midafternoon, its low tide, the sun is shining, and we have the perfect run to our finish line along Kilkee beach.     

At the finish line on Kilkee Beach. Weekend of running complete!