Stage 91: Co. Clare: Ballyvaughan to Doolin: Sunday 17 March: St. Patrick’s Day: 35.19km or 21.86miles

‘Hope is my compass and success is a reward for courage’ (from a Russian song quoted by Alexei Navalny who died suspiciously on 16th February in a Russian prison)

Up until three days before this run, I thought I’d be doing this stage on my own. Then Donald Smith messaged me on the Thursday to say he would join me. Donald has run with me on a few occasions and last May he ran the Burren Marathon, so he is familiar with this area. On Friday morning I got a WhatsApp from Roisin Howley, a young girl from Kilfenora who had seen my post on Munster Trail Runners. We were so delighted to have Roisin run with us and her local knowledge was indispensable today.

Today's Coastal Team

Donald and I stayed in Oranmore, leaving at 7.15am and drove to our finish point of Doolin where we had arranged to meet Roisin at 8.30. We left one car there and drove back to Ballyvaughan to begin Stage 91. We started today’s run at the harbour in Ballyvaughan opposite Monks Hotel and then headed west. After about 3km we come to the ‘Pinnacle Well’. It looks like a little church, but it’s actually a holy well. We all had a sip of the fresh water inside.

At the Pinnacle Well 

Quick drink at the Pinnacle Well

We then backtracked about a hundred metres, crossed over a stile, towards the coast and followed a long narrow stretch of land heading east. It’s called Illaungraffanavrankagh on the OS map but known locally as ‘the Rinn’. We run to the very tip of the peninsula, almost feeling we’re back in Ballyvaughan again. 

At the tip of the Rinn

Once we turn around, we face into a strong west wind and the rain soon follows. We stay by the shore and shortly we arrive at Gleninagh Castle or Ghleann Eidhneach, which means valley of ivy. The tower was built in the 1600’s by the O’Loughlins and there’s a small well nearby with lots of holy statues. No shortage of wells or water in this area.

Roisin thinking about climbing up Gleninagh Castle

And another well (beside the castle)

We followed a rough trail inland and arrive back on the main road, but only for a few hundred metres. On rare occasions I allow myself to come inland if there is a quieter road or trail close to the coast. This was one of these instances. I knew there was a trail that ran parallel to the R477 that would be traffic free and could take us almost all the way to Fanore. It’s one of several ‘green roads’ that cross the Burren. Luckily for Donald and me we had Roisin with us today who knew every inch of this landscape. Without her guidance we might not have found the entrance to the ‘Green Road’, as there was no indication or signage telling us where it was. It was a narrow and steep climb to reach it but well worth the effort when we got to the top. 

It's a dead heat to reach the Green Road

Up here on the narrow path (or Green Road) we have magnificent views over Galway Bay. Even better, it’s now brightening up and we’re benefitting fully from the spring sunshine. We see no rain for the rest of the day. 

Cows enjoying sunshine before they go back down to lowlands again

Burren Winterage

On the Burren farmers will shortly be herding their cattle down from the hills. This is to enable all the wildflowers to bloom on the rocky slopes. The Burren is filled with a wide variety of orchids, spring gentians and alpine avens. These plants and flowers are so rare and unique to this part of Co. Clare. Moving the cattle down from the uplands will help. The cows will stay on the lower land until November and then they move to the rocky and sunnier hills over the winter. The Irish winter is quite mild and the cattle avail of the sunshine (even vitamin D) that they would not get below. Although this is the reverse of what happens in other countries it makes a lot of sense here.

Looking back towards Ballyvaughan

Up high on the Green road as we loop around Black Head

The trail gets wider as it loops around Blackhead, heading south and we’re able to get some speed up, while still admiring the views.   

In Annie Enright’s ‘The Green Road’, the narrator describes it perfectly ‘if you crossed the long meadow, you came to a boreen which brought you up and over a small rise to a view of the Aran Islands. This road turned into the green road that went across the Burren, high above the beach at Fanore, and this was the most beautiful road in the world, bar none, her granny said.’

I agree with her granny, but unfortunately we must descend from the beautiful Green Road. Shortly we arrive on Fanore Beach which looks glorious in today’s sunshine.

At Fanore Beach

Fanore Beach

We run along the shore and then come inland just before Donoghue’s Pub. As we get closer to the pub, we notice a lot of commotion. It’s the preparation for Fanore’s St Patricks Day Parade. I had got a mention in the Clare Champion about my run and one of the organisers of the Fanore Parade, Anne Pilkington asked me to give a short talk about my adventure. They then recognised Roisin and insisted she come up on the stage to play the fiddle. Roisin impresses all of Fanore with a melody of tunes.

I know we're definitely in West Clare now and it reminds me of Ralph McTell's song, 'From Clare to Here'  

I sometimes hear a fiddle play or maybe it's a notion
I dream I see white horses dance upon that other ocean

Roisin performing at St Patricks Day Parade in Fanore

Afterwards we visited the shop for refreshments, the shopkeeper refusing to take our money. We continued our run on the coastal R477 with a few hills to climb along the way. After a while the road veers inland at Ailladie. We decide, using Roisin’s local knowledge again, to stay by the coast. The landscape along here has some grassy trails but it’s mostly a rocky surface with all sorts of caves, stones, fossils, and a variety of flowers. Already wild orchids and dandelions are making an appearance today. Roisin reminds us of what Cromwell’s officer Ludlow said about the Burren back in the 1600’s

‘There isn’t a tree to hang a man, water to drown a man nor soil to bury a man’.

Rough waters near Ailladie

Roisin admiring the wild Atlantic

This area is famous for rock climbing, and we spot a few hikers along here. I admit to once having a brief interest in this hobby. I was here back in the 1980’s and it was also my first (and last) time climbing up and abseiling down a cliff. This wasn’t for me, but I have such great admiration for these brave souls who are fearless in these situations. As was the case in Fairhead, Co. Antrim these virtual climbs have their own unique names and various degrees of difficulties. By all accounts the ‘Mirror Wall’ seems to be the toughest of them all. It’s a 30 metre (100 feet) drop and especially dangerous with strong Atlantic winds bashing the coast.

The rocky ledges and cliffs of west Clare

Roisin & Donald - way out west

Sea spray on west Clare cliffs

Sticking rigidly to the coast, we clamber along the spectacular cliffs and absorb the afternoon sunshine. We stop for a short break of snacks and biscuits to give us some sustenance over the last few miles. Up on the hill we spot a March Hare, probably heading to his own tea party. The Aran Islands become clearer now and we see a ferry heading over in that direction. Finally, we arrive at Doolin Pier. It’s already 3.30 but it was a most enjoyable day with beautiful weather and perfect company. It renewed my love for west Clare.

 Revisiting tidal islands in Connacht: 9-11 March 2024

Finis Island, South Connemara

Before tackling the province of Munster, I had to go back and finish some of the coast of Connacht that I missed the first time. There were three islands in Co. Galway that can only be reached at low tide. This was the perfect weekend for it with, lower spring tides and believe it or not, no rain at all.

Stage 76 Revisited: Saturday 9 March 2024 Finis (or Feenish) Island, Connamara, Co. Galway: 12.89 km or 8.01miles.

Finis Island: I was able to walk over through the sand from the east side. 

On my way out to Finis Island I decided to stop off at Oughterard and do the parkrun. Maybe this wasn’t such a good idea, as I’ll explain later, even if I did get the North Down AC tourism award. After the parkrun I continued driving into Connemara, taking a left turn at Maam Cross. After passing Cill Chiarain I parked my car at a small crossroads at Tigh Leavy’s Pub and headed towards the shore. I briefly ran down to Ardmore Quay but then backtracked a little, following the Tra sign and circled around the peninsula. Out in the sea I spotted two islands, Bior Mor and Bior Beag. Hard to believe seventeen people once lived there, according to the 1901 census. Eventually in the distance I spot it, Finis Island, in all its glory. It’s low tide now and there’s a huge stretch of open sand in front of me. I arrive on the island on the sandy east side.

So many lovely beaches on Finis Island

It’s turning out to be a sunny day and all along this side of the island there are beautiful white beaches, one after the other. I continue south, circling the island but don’t meet anyone at all during the morning. However, there is evidence of settlement on Finis Island over 4,000 years ago, long before Saint MacDara came to this area in the sixth century. In the 1901 Census there were 23 houses listed and all were occupied. As I run along the west side, I spot a few of these deserted houses. They might be old but still look quite sturdy and well built. I see only one modern house which is probably used as a holiday home. 

Deserted houses: Nobody lives on Finis Island anymore

When I eventually come back to the north of the island, I was surprised that the tide had come in so quickly. I can’t see any obvious causeway and start to worry. There’s an expanse of water between me and the mainland. Earlier I had checked online with two different websites, but it turns out that their tide indications were ninety minutes different to the actual tide times. Lucky for me the water is still shallow enough for me to make my way across. By the time I reached the other side my legs and feet are freezing. However, I was so relieved to be back on the mainland and the best way to stay warm was to keep running. I soon found a country lane and felt like an escaped prisoner as I sprinted all the way back to the crossroads where I’d parked my car. I learned an important lesson today to always check with local knowledge as regards tide times.

  

Stage 89: Revisited: Sunday 10 March 2024 Island Eddy, Co. Galway: 8.73km or 5.42miles. 

Island Eddy: Just about able to get across at low tide

"A dear little island stands on Galway Bay.

Not far from the pier which is called the Aran Quay.

One look at its beauty, one row around its shore

Would make you regret living inland ‘ere more’’.

(poem found in pocket of John Conlon, a native of Island Eddy, when he died in Boston in the 1900s)

Even those living in Galway know little about Island Eddy or where exactly it is. It is easiest approached by taking the quiet L8563 from Kilcolgan. It was a long and winding road from the village and after about 5km I took a right turn (not signposted) down to Kileenaran Pier (or Aran Quay as its locally called). There are only a few windows of opportunities to reach Island Eddie on foot. This weekend was one of only two occasions this year when it was possible to get across. I wasn’t taking any chances with the tide and so I contacted Brian Martyn who has a house on the island. As a word of warning, I noticed that the tide times on some websites were not correct. It’s always so important to check with local knowledge before taking any risk as regards tide times. Brian met me at the pier and introduced me to his wife Helen who kindly volunteered to be my guide for the morning.

With Helen, John and Rena waiting for the tide to go out

At the harbour I met a lovely couple Rena and John Deely and together with Helen our escort we walked along the shore for about one kilometre until we came to the point to cross over to the island. We waited there at this spot for about ten minutes, watching as a causeway slowly appeared until it was finally safe to walk across. This long sandy path that leads to the island is known as ‘the cush’. Helen explained that there used to be seven families on Eddy, but the last people left as recently in the 1980’s. However, during Covid, Helen and Brian Martyn moved to the island and now live alternatively between here and the mainland. The Martyns are also reviving an old traditional on the island. They grow vegetables and the only fertiliser they use is natural seaweed. Traditionally the produce from the island was always well respected and usually got the best prices at markets. When I met Brian on the pier, he handed me some of his Queen new potatoes and I confirm they are quite tasty.

And still waiting for the lowest tide

Once crossing ‘the cush’ and arriving on the island, I set off running. In any case it was getting quite cold, so it was the perfect way to warm up. I did a short loop of the island and as I trampled through some lush and fertile looking grass, I can understand why there is such a good tradition of vegetable growing. After my run I arrived back at the centre of the island and there met a group of local runners, led by Noel Gorman, who had taken advantage of today’s extra low tide. Helen and Brian’s house is also here, and Helen invited Rena, John, and I into her lovely home. I was so impressed that she made coffee for us which was most welcome on a chilly day like today. I’m so grateful to Helen and Martin for giving me the opportunity to visit their ‘dear little island’.

Drinking coffee with Helen in her island home

With Rena, Helen & John

An interesting fact about Island Eddy is that the body of man, Lindon Bates was washed up on the island on 30 July 1915 and found by John Conlon. Bates was a passenger on the Lusitania, which was torpedoed by a German U-boat three months previously. The Lusitania sank a few hundred miles away off the coast of Co. Cork. Its sinking turned public opinion against Germany and probably lead to America entering WW1. Lindon Bates was on deck when the ship was hit and spent time helping Amy and Warren Pearl searching for their three missing children. All five of the Pearl family survived the disaster. The ship sunk in eighteen minutes. I’m not sure if the John Condon mentioned in the poem above, is the same man who found the body of Lindon Bates on Island Eddy.

 

Stage 86 Revisited: Hare Island: Monday 11 March 2024 Hare Island, Renmore, Galway City: 4.71km or 2.93miles.

Hare Island is so small - but its a good kilometre from the shore.

Although there is a causeway to this island it is only passable at a very low tide. In fact, today was the lowest tide of 2024 so I knew it was very safe to cross. It’s exactly one kilometre along the causeway to reach the island but only about 700 metres to circle it completely. 

Looking back to Renmore from Hare Island

There is a large lake or lagoon in the middle which probably accounts for half of the area of the whole island. From the top of a grassy hill, I had the perfect view of Galway Bay and I felt quite close to Mutton Island and Salthill. It’s a beautiful spring morning, no wind or rain and almost feeling warm even though I’m standing in the middle of Galway Bay. If you are on Ballyloughane Beach at high tide, it’s hard to imagine that you could ever walk to this island. 

Hare Island's outdoor swimming pool!

Circling Hare Island

I first heard about Hare Island after reading Walter Macken’s ‘Rain on the Wind’ in which the main teenage characters do get stuck on the island overnight and must wait for the low tide in the morning. It’s the quintessential Galway novel and one of my favourite books. Finally, I’m delighted to say that this island is the final piece of the Connacht coast that I’ve completed. Remember I started running around the western province over four years ago and now I’m finished this part of the adventure. It’s strange that this island, which is the last piece of the Connacht coastal jigsaw, is just down the road from where my wife, Maureen grew up in Renmore.