Stage 90: Co. Clare: New Quay to Ballyvaughan: Thurs 2 November 2023: 23.03km or 14.31miles    

And some time make the time to drive out west into County Clare, along the Flaggy Shore, in September or October, when the wind and the light are working off each other’’, From 'Postscript' by Seamus Heaney

At New Quay outside Linnane's Pub

I I deliberately made sure to cover this area in Autumn just to check out what Seamus Heaney was talking about. (didn't quite make October). The great Irish poet died just ten years ago, and ‘Postscript’ is one of his famous poems. Compared to some of the spectacular scenery I’ve seen, there’s nothing special about the flaggy shore but in fairness to Heaney he’s talking more about the wind, the light, and the contrasts. Today I felt the wild Atlantic wind in all its glory but at least it was dry for most of the morning.

The Flaggy Shore, Co. Clare

I parked my car at New Quay outside Linnane’s Bar looking across towards Aughinish Island. The weather reports highlighted Storm Ciaran and gave a yellow warning for six counties, but it looked like north Clare was escaping the worst. Still, a strong westerly wind was blowing in my face as I ran along the flaggy shore.

‘’the ocean on one side is wild with foam and glitter, and inland among stones
the surface of a slate-grey lake is lit by the earthed lightning of a flock of swans,

Mount Vernon House

Along the flaggy shore, I pass Mount Vernon. This house was built originally by Colonel William Persie to celebrate his friendship with George Washington. The original Mount Vernon in Virginia, USA was the estate of Washington and it is where the first American president is buried. The Irish Mount Vernon was eventually left to Persie's descendant, Lady Gregory. She entertained all the great writers here including Yeats, Russell, O'Casey, Synge and George Bernard Shaw. 

Towards the end of the coastal road, I spotted the ‘slate-grey lake’. I knew exactly what Heaney was saying and perfectly understood the contrast he was writing about. I even spotted in the distance ‘the earthed lighting of a flock of swans’.

Looking across to cliffs on Aughinish Island

Probably too early and cold for ice cream!

At Café Linnalla, the wee ice cream shop, I was able to take a short cut through their grounds. I continued west along a country road towards Finavarra and followed it to the end as far as the Martello Tower. This is the third tower I’ve passed in Galway Bay. These Martello Towers were built to defend strategic points and usually built in pairs (or triplicate in this case) so that the invading fleet would come under crossfire from different locations. 

Martello Tower at Finavarra

Martello Towers get their name from a tower on Corsica called Torra di Mortella. The tower in Corsica withstood severe bombardment from the British Navy. The British were so impressed that they copied the design and built similar structures in the UK and Ireland. Napoleon was born in Corsica and spent his early years there. Ironically the Martello towers in UK and Ireland were built as a defence against Napoleon’s army, which never arrived.

Following the coast road around

On the tower itself, I could see the remains of a rope which is used for getting into the upper door. Again, as with the other Martello Towers, I resisted the temptation to climb up.

On the way back, I passed Scanlans Island. Unfortunately, it was high tide, and I could see that the small island was not accessible from the west side. Also, with so much rain over the last few weeks it would not have been a good idea to try to cross the causeway. I hope to come back and circle the island again. I followed the road around and shortly came to the O’Dalaigh monument on a small hill by the shore. 

O'Dalaigh Monument

 Co. Clare and the O’Dalaigh bards

The O’Dalaighs (or Dalys) were ancient bards and part of the Bardic Schools for poets which gave the equivalent of a university education right up to the 17th century. In social rank, poets were placed below kings but above all others. Maybe it was no coincidence that Seamus Heaney was inspired to write his ‘Flaggy Shore’ poem just around the corner from the O’Dalaigh monument.

Co. Clare always had its own culture probably because of its unique geographical location. The River Shannon and the Atlantic Ocean cut off the county from most of its neighbours. It’s the only Munster County west of the Shannon and I always believed Clare would be more at home in the province of Connacht. I’m sure Oliver Cromwell also meant to include Clare in his ‘to hell or to Connacht’ comment when he banished old Irish lords and landowners to the west.

 I follow the road south and loop around the bay at Bell Harbour (Beal an Chloga). I think the name Bell or Chloga relates to a man of that name who drowned in the harbour. 

Shanmuckinish Castle

Close up shows castle in ruins

I’m running along the main road now (N67), but traffic is quite light. Soon I see a castle in the distance. It’s situated on a small peninsula that’s jutting out into Pouldoody Bay. It’s called Shanmuckinish Castle which even gets a mention in the ‘The Annals of the Four Masters’ in 1584. Back then Turlough, son of McLoughlin O’Loughlin, owner of the castle, was taken prisoner and later put to death. When I reach the castle I notice that it is fenced off and that the rear of the fortress is in ruins. Leaving the castle, I could have followed a coastal trail, but I could see on my OS map that the path didn’t go very far. Also, with all the rain we’ve had I didn’t fancy roughing it along the shore, so I kept to the main road.

View from Castle

I continued along the N67 and at Bishopsquarter I run down to the coast. There was a trail through a grassy area which I was able to run along, make a loop and come back along the coast. I enjoyed this interlude as I had been running on roads all day. There is nothing like the surface of a grassy trail or a sandy beach. 

Bishopsquarter 

Back on the main road the rain started to come down, so I didn’t stop at the Bishopsquarter graveyard. I carried on to Ballyvaughan, took a right turn and ran as far as my finish point at the Old Pier. (There used to be a regular connection from here to the Aran Island). 

Finally at Ballyvaughan Pier

Quotation on Ballyvaughan Pier

Meeting up at Ballyvaughan Pier

It was still only 11.00am when I reach the harbour and the rain has stopped. Even though it was a shorter run today that west wind made it hard work. Shortly my chauffeurs (Aideen, Maureen, and Brian) arrive and we all adjourn to Monks pub. Stage 90 Complete