STAGES 74-75: Ballyconneely to Glynsk

At Roundstone (Nimmo's) Pier

                      Stage 74

Co. Galway: Ballyconneely to Roundstone                                            Thursday 29 September 2022

              22.73km or 14.12miles

 "Sometimes the most scenic roads in life are the detours you didn’t mean to take." (Sign outside Coffee Cottage in Roundstone)

With Covid not so prevalent now, and people travelling more, it is getting difficult to find a place to stay. Luckily for me I have that Galway connection and I can use the city location as a base for these Connemara runs. We did find a lovely B&B (Island View) in Roundstone on the Thursday night with the perfect host in Maurice. Also, two weeks ago, I ‘pre-visited’ this area and completed Inis Nee Island and Rosroe Peninsula (in perfect weather) which made it easier for me over these days. 

It’s a beautiful afternoon in Connemara. We drove out from Galway City this morning, Maureen, and Brian dropping me off in Ballyconneely. 

For the first few miles I ran along the main R341, taking a right at Murvey. I probably could have taken an earlier turn at Callow that would have brought me down to the shore, but I wasn’t sure of the terrane there. In any case on the Murvey road I was able to run on a lovely boreen that followed the coast for a while. 

At the end of the boreen at Murvey, near Roundstone

Croaghnakeela or Deer Island

Just as the wee road came to an end I met a father and son who were building a wall, making the most of the fine weather. The man pointed out for me the island of Croaghnakeela although he called it Deer Island as it was once stocked with deer. I left the working men, and I was able to rough it for about half a mile over a rocky hill before reaching another trail. As I climbed over a small summit I could see this beautiful beach in front of me. It was Dogs Bay beach (Tra Chuan na Mhada) in all its glory. As I was already close to the coast I contemplated staying by the shore and trampling across a few fields to get to the strand. However, I thought it wiser to follow the proper trail back up to the main road. It was a good decision because when I reached the main road I had the perfect downhill run and my fastest kilometre (4.51) of the two days.

Dogs Bay or Tra Mhantan

In Irish, Dogs Bay is called Tra Mhantan, and I think Mantan was an apostle of Saint Patrick. When I reached the beautiful beach I kept running, even meeting along the way a French ultra-runner, Michel Le Merle and his wife Janet. I continue around the whole peninsula as far as Gorteen Point and join Gorteen Beach on the other side. These two beaches form, what’s called a tombola, which juts out into the Atlantic.

With Michel Le Merle (Ultra Runner)

Inishlacken Island: Out in the bay I can see Inishlacken. I’m not the first person from the north east of the country to visit this area. In 1951, Belfast artist James MacIntyre spent a summer on the island of Inishlacken, with fellow Belfast artists Gerard Dillon and George Campbell. Years later, he wrote about their exploits in his book Three Men on an Island.

Gorteen Bay

Gorteen Bay: Maureen & Brian are dots in the distance

This looped run was tougher than I expected with lots of boulders on the southern part of the peninsula to manoeuvre around. However, the rewards at the other end when I eventually reached Gorteen Bay (Port na Feadoige) were more than worth it. Such a spectacular crescent shaped beach with the perfect white sand and clear blue water. To cap it all, Maureen and Brian were there to meet me. We walk together for a while along the beach and even when they leave me I try to say as close to the coast as possible. 

Brian & Maureen on Gorteen Beach with Inishlacken Island behind

 

I thought I could make it along the shore all the way to Roundstone, but the surface got much too difficult. I think if I had persevered a little more past Ervallagh I could have made it the whole way and joined up with a coastal trail. Instead, I ran up the boreen to the main road that took me to my destination for today

Roundstone with Twelve Pins behind

Cloch Na Ron, Bruce Ismay and Alexander Nimmo

The name Roundstone is a bad English translation and I much prefer the prettier sounding Irish name, “Cloch Na Ron” (Rock of the Seals). It’s said that Bruce Ismay, chairman of the White Star Line (owners of Titanic) came here in 1912 for some peace. I figure he wasn’t very popular after surviving the voyage by getting onto one of the lifeboats. Another famous character, Alexander Nimmo had no formal education in engineering but designed so many piers and harbours around the country. In Galway City there is even a pier in the Claddagh called ‘Nimmo’s Pier’. He was Scottish and only came to Ireland when he was in his twenties. He had a special devotion to Roundstone and not only, constructed an impressive new harbour but also went on to develop most of the village itself. It is believed that Alexander Nimmo is buried in the village but it’s not clear where exactly his grave is.

  

        Stage 75           

        Co. Galway: Roundstone to Glynsk

                 Friday 30 September 2022

                 28.12km or 17.47miles

  "I can only think in the dark and in Connemara I have found the last pool of darkness in Europe." (From Tim Robinson’s book, The Last Pool of Darkness)

Inspiration sign in Roundstone

I almost cancelled todays run! Hurricane Ian in Florida has destroyed a lot of property in the US and according to the RTE Weather Forecast the storm is coming to the west of Ireland, with torrential rain and strong winds. And yes it did rain a lot during the night and it was quite blustery in the morning. Maurice at Island View B&B told me to be especially careful on the narrow road out of Roundstone. I thought it was wise to wear my green, slightly waterproof jacket. It did keep me warm and dry but I was conscious that I might not be seen clearly by oncoming traffic.

Even the sea looks rough today

It’s 8.03am, dark and wet as I start today’s run. After about 3km I passed the bridge to the island of Inishnee. In hindsight it was such a good decision to complete this island two weeks ago when the weather was much better (see later). Despite the miserable rain today I was also lucky to have a strong west wind behind me. 

Another one of those signs in Roundstone - I needed that inspiration today.

I followed the main road and after another 2km I took a right turn and another right, heading south towards the old village of Aillenacally. The village contains fourteen houses now deserted and in disrepair. Nobody has lived here since the 1950’s. An Irish American has bought some land here and maintains that Aillenacally is the ‘oldest village in Ireland’. Years ago, schoolchildren used to walk from the village in a north direction through the bog to the school at Toombeola. I had read that there were steppingstones to guide you across the path. It was called ‘The Scholars Road’. According to local writer Michael Halliday, the walk or trail starts about 400 metres up from the shore but it's still difficult to find. Luckily for me, I met a local farmer at the exact spot where the steppingstones began. He didn’t seem to know it was called ‘The Scholars Road’ but he knew about the stones and literally pointed me in the right direction. At this stage it was pouring rain, but I was able to make my way across the bog, trying to find the odd stone to step on. Sometimes it was so boggy and wet that I had to leave the 'path' for a dryer section. I worried that I might lose the path as it wasn't that obvious to see. All the time I was thinking of those poor children on cold and wet mornings taking this same journey. It stopped me feeling sorry for myself. 

About two thirds of the way across I did lose the trail. The stones seemed to disappear, so I had to plod along through the fields. Eventually I could see houses nearby and I was able to climb over a farmgate to reach the main road at Toombeola. The literal translation is 'Tomb of Beola'  and Beola was an ancient chief in Connemara).

This is along Lehenagh peninsula

Shortly I cross over a bridge and then take a right turn signposted to Cashel. This section of the road is quite narrow and winds its way around the shore. I’m reminded of how Tim Robinson described it ‘the road has to swerve and twist like a cyclist chased by a snappy sheepdog’. Robinson was an English writer who sadly died recently in 2020 due to the coronavirus. He was a Yorkshire writer who like the Normans ‘became more Irish than the Irish themselves’. He had lived here since 1972 and became a well-known historian in Connemara. I think I would have got on well with him. He began to explore and record his surroundings closely, walking on foot and even, designing his own maps. I wish Tim Robinson was around to guide me along this part of the shore. I love the way he describes his own coastal adventure

 ‘’While walking the land, I am the pen on the paper; while drawing this map, my pen is myself walking the land’’

I passed by the entrance to Rosroe Peninsula and again count myself lucky that I’ve already completed that section of the coast (see later) in much better weather.

Cashel House Hotel

I decided to have a break here at the hotel and hopefully get some water to drink. All that rain and I'm still thirsty! The sign outside the hotel said ‘Residents Only’ but I ventured inside where I noticed breakfast was being served. A young lady gave me a big jug of water and I sat in the lobby knocking back a few glasses. 

Back in 1969 Charles de Gaulle, just a month after his resignation as president of France, came to Ireland, and spent two weeks here at the hotel. Cashel House only received a week’s notice that the big man was coming. There was great panic as management worried they did not have a bed big enough for the 6 foot 5 inches (1.96 metres) Frenchman. I like the comment in the Irish Times at the time that has a connection to my adopted town in Northern Ireland. ‘The presence of General de Gaulle here is almost as bizarre, in its first impact, as would be the announcement that Chairman Mao had arrived in Bangor, Co Down, to enjoy the amenities of Pickie Pool.'

At the time De Gaulle tried to explain why he came here. 'It was a sort of instinct that led me towards Ireland, perhaps because of the Irish blood that courses in my veins.'  There was some truth in De Gaulle’s comment about his Irish blood. His grandmother was descended from the McCartans of Co Down and she even wrote a book about Daniel O’Connell.  

The rain was still coming down as I left the hotel. My waterproof jacket didn’t completely keep out the rain and I could feel the cold even as I started running again. Shortly I took a right turn at Cashel Education Centre. I followed this road on the peninsula to Lehenagh down to the sea. Not many creatures around today, although at one stage I did see a hare as big as a dog, scampering across the road. When I reached the coast I doubled back to the main road and then followed the R340 that eventually led me all the way to my finish line in Glynsk. 

I'm glad to have completed today's adventure as I have been feeling more tired recently. I think the two marathons I did in the springtime took a lot out of me. Recently I got my bloods checked and I was diagnosed as being anaemic with low iron levels. A second blood test proved more positive, but I am realising I’ve got to eat more iron-based foods. That can be hard sometimes as I do not eat any red meat. Maybe two days of running caught up with me. The good news though was that Maureen and Brian were there to meet me and we enjoyed delicious tea and scones at Glynsk House, watching the sun making its first appearance of the day and brightening up those dark hills of Connemara. 

Stage 75- PRE-visit: Saturday 17 September 2022 Rosroe Peninsula, Cashel. 16.01 km or 9.95 miles

Yes this was a pre-visit rather than a revisit and I completed it two weeks before the main stage in much better weather. It was a tough section, and I knew it was going to be difficult. As I drove out from Galway City I watched the early morning fog clear to reveal the peaks and valleys of the twelve pins (na Beanna Beola). 

Rosroe Peninsula with na Beanna Beola behind

The early sunshine over the mountains lit up the whole of Connemara. I parked my car in a lay-by just opposite, what was once, Willie Bolgers Pub and headed back along the road. As usual I was running anti-clockwise, with the sea on my right. Rosroe probably translates as the ‘the red peninsula’ called after the boggy terrain. I couldn’t find anything on-line at all about this area so maybe I am one of the few people to circumnavigate the Rosroe peninsula! Although I know for a fact that the famous local historian, Tim Robinson did walk every section of this coastline. It was the perfect morning for a run along, what started as a country lane, even if the trail became rougher and rockier. The trail eventually disappeared after only about 2k. I had to slow down as I trampled through the bog and the long grass. I thought it was best to get closer to the coast and it did seem a bit easier even if there was no proper beach to run along. 

Looking across Cloonile Bay to Inis Nee Island

No sign of anyone along here. It's so quiet and peaceful with perfect calm water as I run along the southern shore of Cloonisle Bay (or Blackhaven Bay). In the distance I spot a lone fishing boat across the sea heading towards the pier at Inis Nee Island. 

SW corner looking toward Oghly Island

I fine a trail again!

Climbing over a few barbed-wire fences, I eventually reached the SW corner of the peninsula. I must have scared the local wildlife as a seagull or tern came screeching along the shore and was still quite vocal as it flew away. Across the bay I could see Oghly Island. (Oilean an Chlai). Later when I was running around Inis Nee, I spotted the island from another angle. It looks quite pretty, has a nice beach and apparently a tidal swimming pool. Definitely not an ugly island! 

Canower Harbour

Stand off with cow near Canower Pier

Meanwhile here, on the south side of Rosroe peninsula I eventually found a rough and rocky trail that joined up with the country road near Rosroe Lodge. On the way back I took a slight detour down to Canower Pier and ran to the end of the lane. A cow blocked my way here, standing in the middle of the lane and making me run on the grass to get around.  It seems that cows have become my number one enemy on this grand adventure of mine. Finally, I reached my car on the main road where I had a banana and a good drink of water before driving towards Roundstone to tackle Inis Nee Island.   

Stage 75- PRE-visit: 11.38am on Saturday 17 September 2022 Inis Nee Island 12.03km or 7.48miles

Yes another pre-visit two weeks before doing the main section of Stage 75. After completing Rosroe Peninsula (see above) I got into my car and headed west, taking a left turn, signposted Inis Ni, just before Roundstone. I drove across the bridge and parked my car on the grass verge. Even before the bridge was built, islanders could make their way across the rocks, to reach the mainland. That was probably the case in 1901 when the island population was 323 – it went down to 24 in 2002 and now thankfully it’s increasing again and now there are 43 inhabitants on the island.

Looking across to Roundstone Village

Roundstone itself is notoriously busy over the summer but, even on a beautiful Saturday like today, it’s very quiet here in Inis Nee on the other side of village. The island of Inis Ni is said to be shaped like the figure eight but to me it really looks like there are three sections or three round-shaped islands. Near where I park, a map highlights a ‘the loop walk’. Looking at that map and my own OS map, I start my run and take an immediate left, passing a few houses. When this road comes to an end, there is no sign of a trail, that was marked on the maps. I rough it through fields expecting to find some path but can’t see any.  A few days after I did this section I read an article 'Walking in Roundstone' by Michael Halliday saying 'Do not attempt to walk on some maps by taking the first left after the bridge - it becomes too difficult and unpleasant'. Pity I didn't read that first! 

Eventually I do join up with a lane that brings me down to a pier and I'm able to cross over to the middle section of the island. I talk a left turn which leads me onto the most beautiful grassy coastal path. This trail is perfect for running on and to cap it all, there are magnificent views of the twelve pins (na Beanna Beola). These mountains are spectacular today and watching over me wherever I am. 

The Twelve Pins (Beanna Beola) 

The perfect coastal path!

Maladdin & Gerry with Twelve Pins behind

I stop to chat to a few people who are walking this route. I’m now at the closest point to Oghly Island sitting peacefully in Bertraghboy Bay. I keep running and join the bottom (most southerly) section of Inis Nee island. I follow the road to the very end and do my own loop through the bog. I then double back the whole way and follow the straight road north all the way back to the bridge. Bye bye, Inis Nee.