STAGES 66-67: Co. Mayo: Westport to Louisburgh: 

 

Reflecting in the sun along White Strand/Sand Hills Beach, Co. Mayo 

                        Stage 66

Co. Mayo: Westport to Louisburg (via Croagh Patrick)

                         Thursday 17 March 2022 

                            38.4km or 23.8miles

 

The detour (south) in the middle is a wee climb of Croagh Patrick

‘’Walk with me westward along St. Patricks Trail. Along the pathway of the pagan, the passage of the pilgrim’’ John Corless

I’m delighted to have a few other runners join me over these two days. Donald Smith has travelled down with me all the way from Bangor. Also, Helen Byers and Neill Weir are going to meet us for the Croagh Patrick climb. Helen is of course one of the original coastal runners and has brought along her two children, Holly and James (who have inherited their mother’s determination). Finally, I got a lovely surprise on St. Patrick’s morning when another runner turned up at the hotel. More about him later!  

It’s not a bad St. Patrick’s Day and the forecast is promising for today’s run and our climb up Croagh Patrick. Donald and I stayed at the Westport Woods Hotel last night and this is where we begin today’s adventure. I needed to pop out to my car in the morning and I spotted someone outside that looked like Sean Nickell (original coastal runner). ‘‘Morning Gerry’’, he says. He sounded like Sean Nickell too! I’m dumbfounded and wondering if I’m still asleep and dreaming. Yes, it’s definitely Sean and late last night he made the five-hour journey to get here. He slept overnight in his van (nick-named Bob after he converted it to a camper-van) and now he’s ready to join Donald and me. So, I’ve got the perfect team this morning and I’m looking forward to climbing Croagh Patrick and getting a bird’s eye view of the drumlins of Clew Bay.

Our starting point at Westport Woods Hotel

From the hotel, Donald, Sean and I follow the coast road all along Westport Quay and after about 4k we join the main road, R335. Surprisingly, there’s a strong gale against us until we cross the bridge at Murrisk. At least there’s no rain but I don’t like the look of the sky! 

From Murrisk - on our way to Croagh Patrick with grey sky above

We run down to the pier, do a loop and when we come back to the main road we are almost at the foot of Croagh Patrick, which was originally called Cruchain Aighle (conical mountain). Yes, its unique shape makes the peak stand out for miles around. It is believed that in Year 441 St. Patrick fasted here on the mountain for 40 days.

Helen, Neill, Holly and James are there to meet us at ‘base camp’ and now we have a magnificent team of seven to begin our mountain of adventure.

The Magnificent Seven begin their climb of Croagh Patrick

Traditionally not many people climb the mountain in March. The historical annals for the year 1113 recounts a St Patrick Day Pilgrimage where lightning struck and ‘a ball of fire’ killed 30 people who were fasting on the peak. Instead the last Sunday in July has become ‘Reek Sunday’ when thousands come here, usually in better weather. Yes, maybe it's not such a good idea to take on this task today as we later found out!

With Holly & James under St. Patrick's statue

 Even before we started our climb we could see a lot of cloud at the top. It was quite windy too and just as we began our ascent, the rain came down. I have to admit that I didn’t have the appropriate clothing for this climb; a fact that was pointed out to me later by a bearded member of our own team. We struggled upwards through the rain, wind and then foggy mist at the top. Donald tells us that the temperature drops by one degree for every 150 metre climb so for 764 metres that’s a five degree drop. All in all, it combined for a miserable situation when we reached the chapel at the top. My three layers were soaked through. Sean told me later that I was in the first stage of hyperthermia and I ‘turned a funny colour’. Sean literally peeled my wet clothes off my body as my hands were too cold to even attempt it myself. Meanwhile Neill and Helen somehow had warmer clothes available and Sean dressed me again!

Sean Nickell undressing me at the top of Croagh Patrick

The church at the top was built by local men in 1905 using stone and cement brought up the mountain by donkeys. It would have been nice if the chapel was open today with central heated radiators and a big Aga cooker inside. Instead, we all huddled outside and used the wall of the church as protection from the elements.

At the peak of Croagh Patrick

There are no complaints at all from Helen’s children, Holly (13) and James (11) who must be feeling the cold too. Despite the miserable weather they are both bouncing along and taking it all in their stride. I was delighted for their sake that the weather did pick up later as I knew they were going to tackle Mayo’s beautiful greenway.  

Holly & James enjoying Mayo's greenway later

James and Holly on their bikes!

Back on Croagh Patrick, we didn’t delay at the peak and quickly made our way down. It is tricky on the descent and can be quite dangerous. Once we got down lower I was able to run a little and I did warm up as we got closer to sea-level. Lucky for us, at the foot of the mountain, we found a pub, ‘Campbells at the Reek’, with a roaring fire inside. 

In the pub: What a lovely surprise that Sean came to Mayo 

Helen deserved that pint after climbing Croagh Patrick - zero alcohol of course!

Sean, Donald and I had coffees before we continued our run while Helen and gang enjoyed bowls of soup and were able to delay in the bar for longer. So the three elders leave the pub and run along the R335 and then take a right to Bertra Strand. We run all the way to the end of the long peninsula to Bertra 'island' itself. The island of Inishdaugh is close to us, across a narrow channel and on our right hand side we can see Inisheeny Island.

Running on Bertra strand

No clouds on Croagh Patrick now

Dornish (John Lennon’s Island)  

Further north to our left we can see a long island, Dornish (this island can be easily seen from Croagh Patrick too). Dornish was once two islands, Dornish More and Dornish Beg. Both islands are now joined together by an isthmus or tombolo which is really a long sandbar. (I remember back on Stage 55 I had to run across a sandy tombolo/isthmus to reach Claggan Island).  In 1967, John Lennon saw a newspaper advert ‘island for sale’ and bought Dornish from Westport Harbour Board for £1,550. As his career progressed, Lennon postponed his moving to the small island and lend it to Sid Rawle, known as ‘King of the Hippies’. In 1980 after John’s death, Yoko sold the island for £30,000 and donated proceeds to an Irish Orphanage.

After coming back to Bertra beach, the three of us decide to stay on the shore along Thornhill Strand. Even though the tide is half way out, there is not much of a beach along here and it gets quite rocky at a cliff face just before we reach Lecanvey Pier.

With Donald at Lecanvey Pier

At Lecanvey, we run up the harbour road and join the main R335 again for about 4km and then take a lane (L18282) onto Fallduff Strand which brings us to Old Head Pier. In 2001 I enjoyed a week’s family holiday here with Maureen and our boys. I remember the weather wasn’t great but I climbed Croagh Patrick with my son, Conor (then only eight years old) on 12^th July. The only people we met on the mountain that day were three guys from Belfast. We joked about how it was the perfect place to be walking on the twelfth.

Are you sure this is the right way Sean?

Today the weather is brightening up nicely and Donald, Sean and I are drying out. We run up to the very top of Old Head itself but eventually the rough path gets narrower and precarious as we run along a steep cliff. We decide to come inland and clamber over a few fences and eventually find a country road that takes us all the way into Louisburgh.

Climbing over another fence near Old Head

Louisburgh

The First Marquess of Sligo named the town Louisburgh in memory of his uncle, Captain Henry Browne, who fought on the British side against the French in the battle of Louisburg, Nova Scotia in 1758. Usually, it’s the other way around where American cities are called after Irish or British places. Louisburgh, Co. Mayo was originally called Kilgeever. I think I prefer this name which is now a townland outside Louisburgh. There used to be a pilgrimage ‘station’ at Kilgeever as it was on the route from Croagh Patrick to Caher Island, which makes sense. (See tomorrow’s stage where I write more about Caher Island and its connection to St. Patrick)

 At Louisburgh/Kilgeever, we’re so glad that Neill is there to meet us. He drives us back to Westport. Later, all seven of us arrange to meet in the Towers Restaurant at the Harbour in Westport. I know I’m so privileged to have such great company and we discuss our various exploits of the day and plans for tomorrow. A delicious meal followed by Irish coffees finish off the night perfectly. Sadly, Sean has to leave us. He has a long drive ahead. It was so good of him to join us for today’s run. To see him suddenly appear this morning, was the perfect surprise for me.      

 

            Stage 67

Co. Mayo: Louisburgh to Louisburgh (out by coast and back by country road) 

                    Friday 18 March 2022

                     43km or 26.7miles

 ‘’Will you meet me on Clare Island, Summer stars are in the sky.  Get the ferry out from Roonah and wave all our cares goodbye’’ The Saw Doctors

 

Strictly by the coast on outward journey - return to Louisburgh by country road

Donald and I had the good fortune of meeting some lovely people on today’s journey. It started in Louisburgh when we met Austin O’Malley who was getting ready for his own run. Austin also happened to be a friend of Peter Walsh, the fisherman who we met hours later on White Strand beach.

Later we met Austin's friend, Peter the fisherman, on White Strand Beach. 

Blue sky in Louisburgh as we begin today's run - thanks Austin for taking this.

You might wonder why today’s run is a Louisburgh loop and why I haven’t got any further along the coast. Let me explain. My original plan today was to try to get as far as Leenane, Co. Galway or at least to reach Aasleigh Falls which is on the Mayo-Galway border. As always, I studied the route in detail beforehand. This time I worried about the last part of this section along the north shore of Killary Harbour as you pass Connacht’s highest mountain, Mweelrea (the bald king). There is absolutely no road or trail along this section of the coastline, south of Uggool. I struggled to find much detail about this area but I knew one man who had walked here last year so I spoke to him. His name is Kieran O’Hora and last summer, in memory of his son, he walked the whole coastline of Mayo. I asked Kieran about this section and he said ‘’of the entire walk, this was the most daunting’’. He made a scary comment too about Killary Harbour ''the water is as deep as the mountain is high''

This is Kieran O'Hora tackling the 'daunting' north shore of Killary Harbour

Also, if Donald and I did attempt to cross this section, we would be approaching it in the afternoon after having already completed a long part of the coast. I decided then, that we would not follow the coastal route around Mweelrea but instead, head back along the country road and ‘go around’ the mountain on the east side. Looking at the map I then realised that we would need to run back as far as Killadoon and Killeen to achieve this. As these villages are only four miles south of Louisburgh it made sense to run the whole way back to Louisburgh. Furthermore, it means that on my next stage, I’ll now be able to follow the exact route from Louisburgh to Delphi that some malnourished families took during the Famine in 1849. This is also known as the Doolough tragedy and I’ll detail it in my next stage.   

The signs are telling us that we're getting close to America

 We leave Louisburgh taking a right turn after we cross the Bunowen River. We follow this country road through Ashkillaun. Just before we get to Roonah Pier we get talking to a young lady, Kara Connolly, who's mother comes from Bangor, Co. Down.

Thumbs up from Kara with Croagh Patrick behind

We run down to the pier itself and there is boat just heading out to Clare Island. We’re tempted to jump on it! Clare Island is by far the biggest island in Clew Bay and acts like a protector or guard of the bay by where it’s situated. It’s probably why the famous Pirate Queen, Grainne O’Malley (or Grainneuaile) made it her home. Literally, nothing coming into Mayo could get past her! 

Ferry heading out from Roonah to Clare Island

Donald and I decide to try to stay on the coast at Roonah. We knew from the map that it was going to be rough going until we reached Carrowniskey Strand (translated strangely as 'quarter of the water'). The beach is called Sruhir on the OS map. It was quite achievable to run along here, especially as it is low tide at 12.00 noon. There was a beautiful full moon last night which caused a very strong low tide which meant we had lots of sand to run on today.

On Carrowniskey Beach we can clearly see the island of Caher and behind it is Mayo's Inishturk. There are three Inishturk islands! Off the coast of Connemara is the Galway Inishturk and if you remember I referred to Inishturk Beg (the posh island!) in Clew Bay back in February.

Donald pointing out 'Caher na Naomh' Island

Caher Island

Caher is correctly called ‘Cathair na Naomh’ (City of the Saints) and the island supported a small community of monks back in the seventh and eighth centuries. Even today there is a pilgrimage on the Feast of the Assumption (15 August). A Christian route was discovered by archaeologists recently which dates back over a 1,000 years. The island is uninhabited since 1838 and one of the few islands abandoned even before the famine. St. Patrick is said to have visited the island after he had been to nearby Croagh Patrick and it is alleged that the famous saint is buried here on Caher Island. (The people at Downpatrick Cathedral might argue about that one!)  For years, passing sailors were said to dip their sails on passing the island. They had great respect for Patrick and referred to him as “Phadraig miorbhuilteach” St Patrick the wonder-worker.  

Near Burlough Strand

Donald says we look like a Boy-Band in this picture

Donald and I feel we're in the coastal wilderness on such a beautiful day so it’s strange, but nice, when we meet a young couple, Aoife and Andrew. 

With Aoife and Andrew

We stop to chat with them and then continue on to the next beautiful beach, Burlough Strand. We run along a short coastal road at Devlin and shortly see a ‘Private Property’ sign. We decide to quickly pop over a fence and get around the farm. We know it’s the lambing season so we try not disturb the sheep too much.

Finally, we arrive on a long beach called White Strand (or on the OS map, Sand Hills). We have a well-deserved break here sitting on a big rock on the beach and eating some chocolate. We meet another couple here out walking. They are the Fitzgeralds from Athenry in Co. Galway. We tell them our story and they kindly give a very generous donation towards Clifton School. Thank you Angela & John. 

With Angela & John on White Strand Beach

We carry on running along the long strand with a strong south wind in our faces. Soon we spot a man fishing on the beach and we can see that there’s something at the end of his line. 

Two Scotsmen on White Strand

We stop to see what he’s caught (just a wee flat turbot which he throws back into the sea). This is Peter the fisherman and Donald is pleased to meet a fellow Scotsman. Peter tells us about about a nearby townland called Doirín na nAlbanach, ‘the little thicket of the Scotsmen’ . Peter explains how Scottish shepherds were brought over in the 1860's by a lady called Matilda Houston. Mrs Houston describes life in west Mayo in her book ''Twenty years in the Wild West''. 

My reflection on White Strand 

 

Donald took some very clever pictures today

Donald drying his feet after crossing another stream

Leaving White Strand

As part of our own 'wild west' run, Donald and I have one more beach ahead of us. However, we have to cross a few miles of fields before we reach it. 

Heading towards Silver Strand

We can see the beautiful Silver Strand in the distance. (It’s called Trawleckachoolia and Carrickwee on the OS map). This secluded beach lived up to its name and was well worth the trek. The writer, Thackeray was equally impressed when he wrote to his mother after visiting this area.

''the most beautiful thing I have seen anywhere in Europe''

Donald and I sit and enjoy the moment. After a while we investigate if we can go further south along the coast towards the 'Lost valley of Uggool' but there’s a sign here that says, ‘Preserved Area – No entry’. I’m not too disappointed as I’m hoping to come back with Maureen and Brian to do the official tour of the lost valley. Donald and I are reluctant to leave this beautiful beach on such a lovely day but at least we know we’ll have the wind behind us on the way back. 

The end of the coast - no access to the Lost Valley of Uggool 

So we take to the country road and head north back towards Louisburgh. Not much to report on our return inland journey but we are feeling the effect of two days marathon running. When we get to Killadoon we decide to walk a little. A car stops and the friendly driver offers us a lift. Of course we refuse. I should emphasise to the CAC (Coastal Audit Committee) that at no stage on this epic run have I ever accepted a lift from any individual in any type of moving apparatus! We start running again. Luckily for me, my ankle sprain I referred to in February, has cleared up but I now feel a slight neck and shoulder pain. I always say that runners are always only one step away from an injury! We are so glad to arrive at Louisburgh. Later in the evening Donald and I enjoy another delicious meal, followed by a brief visit to Matt Molloy’s pub in Westport and a night-cap in the hotel bar. 

There’s a final reunion on the following morning (Saturday) with Helen and gang at Achill’s parkrun. Holly and James are still full of energy as they sprint along the greenway. Such a lovely few days on the Mayo coast with the perfect company. The adventure continues.     

Stage 67: Revisited: Friday 3 June 2022: Uggool, The Lost Valley

I had originally planned to run along the southern shore of Killary Harbour and if you remember I mentioned in my opening paragraph of Stage 67 how I spoke to Kieran O’ Hora who did walk along this section. Kieran explained how difficult and dangerous it was. I did discover though that in 1971, seventy-four people walked along here (from Thallabawn to Bundorragha), At the time there was talk of building a road along here and there were even plans drawn up in 1968 by Mayo Co. Council. Their 1971 walk was like a campaign to promote the new road. However, they also encountered difficulties around the cliffs. 

Gerard Bourke giving his talk on Uggool Beach 

However, today I was able to revisit this area with Maureen and Brian with an added bonus of getting a local guide to talk about the history of the area. Tours are given by Gerard Bourke, son of the late Michael who was on the 1971 walk and we were privileged to walk on a ‘green road’ that brought us all the way from their house at Silver Strand through their farm at Uggool, now known as The Lost Valley. The tour brought us as far as Killary Harbour, back down to Uggool beach and ends in the cottage from which Gerard’s great-great-great grandfather, Pat Burke, was evicted in 1851. 

Following the 'green road' in Uggool

What an interesting and educational experience it was. I have heard a lot and read a lot about the Irish Famine, but nothing has ever brought me so close to the ‘Great Hunger’ and how people suffered during those terrible years. Gerard’s knowledge and humour impressed and charmed everyone on the tour. Gerard’s wife is also called Maureen and she supplied tea and biscuits afterwards in what was the old family home, overlooking the magnificent Uggool beach. 

Brian at Killary Harbour

I have to admit though I was disappointed originally, not to be allowed run along this beach back in March. The Bourkes have a strictly private property policy on their land. It’s a pity that there isn’t public access as I can’t imagine too many people would ramble along in this area. In any case I think I would have been foolish to try to run (or even walk) along the southern shore of Killary harbour. At least today I was able to get a big closer to Inishbarna Island which I had glimpsed from the other side at Rosroe Harbour.

Killary Harbour with Inishbarna Island behind