STAGES 57-58: Bangor Erris to Achill Sound:

                        Stage 57

        Co. Mayo: Bangor Erris to Ballycroy

            Saturday 28 August 2021

                45.8km or 28.5miles

'’Feel the peace of heaven falling, as the stars shine through the valley. Whilst I sit and dream alone, a thousand miles from Ballycroy’’  Paul Gregan

We are based in Bangor Erris for the weekend after driving down from Bangor, Co. Down. That Bangor-to-Bangor connection has helped me get a short interview with Tommy Marren on the local radio station in Mayo (MidWest Radio). As radio stations go this is one of the best and has a great mixture of news, local interest and lovely music. We always tune in as soon as we cross the Mayo border.

Bangor Erris

The original name for the townland was Doire Choineadaigh (The Wood of the Kennedys). However Major Bingham (from Binghamstown on the Mullet peninsula) established a proper town here and called it Bangor Erris. In 1752 Dr. Pococke visited Bangor Erris on his famous ‘tour of Ireland’ and also, like me, stuck rigidly to the coast. He visited the west of Ireland ‘’when Belmullet was two day’s journey west of Westport’’. Two days; that’s not bad going at all considering how long it’s taken me to cover this area.

Bangor, Co. Mayo

Bangor Erris is on the river Owenmore and is the first bridge over the river from the coast. Trying to keep strictly to the coast or in this case, running along the east bank of the river, would have been difficult today. Therefore, I decided to run on the main A59 road heading south towards Ballycroy. However, I did feel guilty about missing out on an area called Aughness North on the southern shore of the river. So on the Friday night I convinced Maureen to drive me to Srahnamanragh Bridge (about 8 miles south of Bangor). From the Srahnamanragh bridge I ran north for about 4km and Maureen and Brian met me in the car at the top of the road. This meant I didn't need to do this extra 8km (4km x 2) in the morning.

Aughness North - sunset on Friday night - over Owenmore River

It was still an early start on the Saturday. Evelyn our lovely hostess at Hillcrest B&B kindly got up and made me tea and toast. Once again, Maureen and Brian opted for the cooked breakfast at 9.00am and arranged to meet me later in Ballycroy.

Dawn was breaking but the fog was still lingering as I hit the A59 road. However, as the morning went on, it cleared completely and it turned out to be a beautiful day. After about 12km at Srahnanmanragh, I take a right turn just before the bridge and cover an area called Carrigeenmore (direct translation ‘big seaweed’ which isn’t very encouraging). I knew I could circle around this peninsula even if I had to rough through some boggy fields after passing Kola Beanz Equestrian shop. 

Trail near Srahnamanragh Bridge

After circling the wee peninsula, I arrived back at Srahnamanragh Bridge again feeling very thirsty. Lucky for me (in a moment of wisdom) I had planted a bottle of water at the bridge the night before.

After quenching my thirst, I continued on the main A59 for only a few hundred metres and took a right turn signposted Creggane and Doona.

View from Fahy area across to Slievemore in Achill

I got my bearings slightly wrong along here. I thought I was heading north towards Trawboy but I was heading west towards an area called Fahy. I met a young lady here called Dymphna who noticed my confusion and gave me good directions. 

With Dymphna and Slievemore behind

 Doona (or Fahy) castle

This castle has great historical significance as one of the most important ships of the Spanish Armada came to ground here in September 1588. The boat was called the 'Santa Maria Rata Encoronada' and had 419 men on board including a large number of noblemen from famous Spanish families. The captain and crew spent a week here at Doona Castle and then set fire to the ship, destroying any evidence that they had been in the area, fearing they would be captured. Earlier in that same century the famous Queen Granuaile had seized the castle from the McMahon’s in revenge for the killing of her lover, Hugh de Lacy.

Doona or Fahy Castle

Doona Cemetery

I wasn’t impressed with this historical site. Yes it was in ruins but there was a relatively new house just beside the castle. Also, there were a lot of ‘private property’ signs around and absolutely no access to the famous castle. Maureen, Brian and I even returned later and we could only get access to the nearby cemetery and see the remains of the ancient church. How disappointing this must be for visitors. A big sign on the main A59 road gives directions to the castle but as you get closer there’s no other indication as to how you can reach the castle.

I carry on running along the country roads and reach a kind of dead end at Fahy or Corrignacloghmore. I then rough it through a farm and along the coast. I connect to the country road again heading towards Ballycroy. A car stops in front of me and a man called Frankie Cormack jumps out ‘Are you the Bangor-to-Bangor man’, he says. He had heard me on MidWest Radio and kindly gives a donation to Clifton School. 

Frank Cormack and family

He also informs me that I have only one kilometre to go to my finish point at Ballycroy Visitor Centre which is great to hear. At the centre I enjoy a lovely lunch (delicious quiche salad) with Maureen and Brian.

 

Inisbiggle Island     

Map of Inis Bigil - island that's shaped like a horse

I had passed a sign earlier for Inis Bigil, just before Ballycroy and after lunch I suggested to Maureen that we drive down to the pier. At the harbour we noticed people heading over to the island in a small boat. We mentioned to someone at the pier that we were curious about getting across to Inis Bigil and the next thing he shouted to the boat men ''these people want to go too''. The boat turned around and we squeezed in. The two boatmen, Michael and Timmy Leneghan kindly took us on a magical trip over to the island.

The Leneghan brothers

Brian on boat to Inis Bigil

The brothers are among eighteen people who still live on Inis Bigil. The island itself is tucked into a secluded bay, with Achill on the west side and Annagh Island on the east side. It’s surrounded by hills, valleys and mountains. I was wearing a Clifton shirt (I usually bring three pairs with me!) and the two Leneghan brothers had heard me on MidWest Redio and refused to take any money for the trip. They also gave a donation to Clifton School, as did a man called David who we met at the pier. He was the man who shouted at the boat to return. Maureen, Brian and I spent a delightful 90 minutes exploring the beautiful island. 

Maureen at (closed) Primary School on Inis Bigil

Interdenominational Church on Inis Bigil

It is possible to drive (or run) across to the island but only when there are Spring Tides (extreme low tides). This crossing can be made from the south east side of the island and by driving through (or around) Annagh Island on the east side. It can only be done a few times of the year and should only be attempted with a local guide. Maybe some day I’ll come back and run across at low tide.

Stage 57: Revisited: Inis Bigil and Annagh Island: Friday 1 September 2023

‘’The legacy of ‘An Tailliur Gorm’ will live on but who will be left to share Inis Bigil’s poetry and stories to our future generation’’ (from video ‘A dying Culture’)

Crossing Annagh Island to reach Inis Bigil where I got the boat to Doran's Point

I did go back! I convinced Maureen and Brian to join me on a return trip to Co. Mayo. The plan was to visit two tidal islands, Inis Bigil and Bartragh. This weekend there is a super blue moon, which will not be seen again for another 14 years, and we haven’t had one since 2009. Super moons occur when the moon passes its perigee, or the point that takes it closest to the earth. This makes it look 14% bigger compared to its furthest point away. We also know that the moon affects the tides, and a full moon means a very high tide and more importantly for me, an extremely low tide. Therefore, this weekend was the perfect opportunity to reach these islands.

Brian at Ballycroy Visitor Centre

However, the day didn’t start well. We were staying in Ballina and woke up to a very foggy morning. That wasn’t good news as I knew I would be covering rough terrain and running along open sands with no markers. I had to be able to see exactly where I was going. Still, I knew low tide wasn’t until 1.30pm so there was time for the fog to clear. About 10.00am the sun was trying to make an appearance and for the next hour or two there was a Fog v Sun battle. Thankfully the sun eventually came out on top. We left Ballina and drove south towards Ballycroy. About a mile south of the village we took a right turn at a small crossroads. This was the road that I covered on my original coastal run. We came to a small crossroads with a sign pointing straight ahead for Bellacragher Boat Club. In my original Stage 57, I ran down to the sailing club but this time we took a right turn and headed west to the shore and to an area called Claggan, Ballycroy. 

Running down to Claggan 

It has turned out to be a beautiful sunny day. It’s still only 12.15pm so we’re a good hour before low tide. The plan is for me to try to walk across the narrow channel to Annagh Island, run for about a mile across that island, along a trail if I can find it. Then cross over the open sand (another mile) to reach Inis Bigil Island. Easier, said than done and a warning - please be very careful, if you’re attempting this! The problem was getting across the channel to Annagh Island. Even at 1.00pm it still looked too risky. I was able to walk along a sand bank that took me closer to the island but then the water was getting deeper and there was also a strong current. Maureen, Brian and I waited and waited  - and eventually saw the tide slowly recede. 

Pointing out Croghaun Hill to Brian

Wondering if I'll ever get across to Annagh Island

At 1.30 it looked like the tide was still going out. At 2.00pm, we figured it was at its lowest and I could wade across to Annagh Island with the water just above my knees. The problem would be getting back again if I ran all the way to Inis Bigil, which was two miles away. As I didn’t want to risk crossing this narrow channel again, I made the decision that I would run all the way through Annagh Island to Inis Bigil and hopefully get a boat back from the north side of the island to the mainland at Doran’s Point. So, I said goodbye to Maureen and Brian and arranged to meet them later.

 

Arriving on Annagh Island and I've found the trail

Having finally arrived onto Annagh Island I felt a sense of excitement to be on this strange isle that hardly gets a mention anywhere. I had read about cars sometimes crossing over from here and I knew from the OS map that there was a trail through the island. I found the trail quickly enough and started running. After a while I was amazed to pass a modern house with a jeep outside. There didn’t seem to be anybody there – just a few sheep who scattered at my arrival. I learned later that the house was owned by a German. He’s the only person living on the island. He was probably out fishing, making the most of a beautiful day like today. 

House on Annagh Island

Still following the trail heading northwest

I continued on the trail, passing a forest on my left and later meeting some more sheep who stared at me in amazement. I eventually arrived on the west shore of the island. It was another good mile across a wet and sandy beach before I finally arrived onto the SE corner of Inis Bigil.

Reaching the west side of Annagh Island

View of Slievemore, Achill from Annagh Island

Ruins of house on Annagh Island

It was rough going as I ploughed through a few fields on Inis Bigil. I finally reached a path that brought me to the Church. As I had been here in July 2021, it was familiar to me. I knew I wasn’t too far from the northern pier where I hoped I could get a boat across to the mainland. 

I recognised the church on Inis Bigil as I'd been here in 2021

However, there was nobody at all about at Inis Bigil pier, just two empty boats. I wondered if I had any navigational skills at all, I would have borrowed one of the boats and made it across to the mainland. Meanwhile Maureen had reached the pier on the mainland. She rang me to say that it was deserted there too at that harbour. I waited on my side but still nobody turned up. 

Two empty boats at Inis Bigil Pier

View of Annagh Island from Inis Bigil

Luckily for me I had remembered the Lenaghan brothers bringing us across to Inis Bigil in July 2021. I was able to google on my phone and get their mobile number. Michael answered the phone immediately, and I told him my story. As he was already on the island, he promised he would be with me in twenty minutes. He was true to his word. Fifteen minutes later the two Lenaghan brothers came to the rescue and took me in their boat back to the mainland. It is such an amazing journey crossing from Inis Bigil, especially on a beautiful day like today. 

Michael Lenaghan and his brother to the rescue

Arriving back on mainland to meet Maureen & Brian

The sea was calm, and in this secluded bay, we were surrounded on all sides by the Mayo hills and mountains. The Lenaghan brothers treated me like the most important person in the world. As I sat in their boat, I felt like a king. I marvelled at the beauty around me. It reminded me of the song about ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’ who escaped to Skye after the defeat of the Jacobite Rising in 1745.

 ‘’Carry the lad that’s born to be King. Over the sea to Skye’’.

 

Stage 58

Co. Mayo: Ballycroy to Achill Sound

Sunday 29 August 2021

  37km or 23miles

It was back to Ballycroy National Park again to start todays run. I left Maureen and Brian and followed the road towards Inisbiggle Pier but took a left turn this time sticking to the quiet country coastal road. 

At Ballycroy National Park

I followed the signs south through this (Drumgollagh) area towards Bellacragher Boat Club and what a magical place I found. There was absolutely nobody here at this secluded oasis on a lovely Sunday morning. Then I saw a sign for a ‘Solar walk’ which guided me over a wee bridge and onto an island (it doesn’t seem to have a name so I’m calling it Bellacragher Island). 

Trail running through 'Bellacragher' Island

I followed a beautiful trail through the island with Achill Sound facing me across the narrow bay. On my solar walk, I passed signs for Venus and Pluto and I felt like I could have been anywhere in the universe. 

Still no matter how remote you think you might be in Mayo, you'll always spot the odd green and red Mayo flag. Excitement is already building up for the All-Ireland Final in two weeks!

Start of Solar Walk at Venus

End of Solar Walk at Pluto

It’s almost a shame to leave this lonely but lovely spot. Reluctantly I return to the crossroads at the top of the hill, take a right and then join up with the main N59 road. The sign said 9km to Mallaranny (Mulranny). I have an opportunity to leave the main road after about 3km and join the ‘Claggan Mountain Coastal Trail’. I was tempted to follow this boardwalk even though I knew I would have to rough it at the end (through the bog) to get back onto the main road. (Maureen, Brian and I did return here later and walked along the boardwalk. In hindsight I think I could have managed to rough it as the weather has been quite dry over the last week or so).

At Claggan Mountain Coastal boardwalk

As I got closer to Mulranny, the road got steeper as it wound its way around Claggan Mountain. The front cover of my book says ‘a running and sometimes walking adventure’ and this was definitely the ‘sometimes walking’ part. Still, I had the perfect downhill run at the end to Mulranny Park Hotel to meet Maureen and Brian. We sat for a while outside the hotel and then the three of us walked for a while along the Greenway towards Achill. The Great Western Greenway follows the old railway line from Westport to Achill and this section from Mulranny to Achill is the most picturesque.

On Greenway just outside Mulranny

On Greenway with Bellacragher Bay behind

 

This was probably my fourth time on this part of the Greenway and I would highly recommend it. Such a beautiful route whether your cycling, running or walking along this 13k trail. It’s very flat, away from any roads and so quiet and peaceful with beautiful views across Bellacragher Bay. This stretch of the Greenway covers the north coast of the Currane Peninsula and finishes just before the bridge on Achill Island. (it's recently been extended further into Achill). After a mile or two, Maureen and Brian turned back but I continued running towards Achill. The last time I cycled along here it became very windy as I got close to Achill. I know this area is called Tonragee, which translates as 'backside to the wind'. Thankfully there's not even a breeze today and it's not long before I arrive in Achill with Stage 58 completed.     

 Leaving Erris

The following morning we checked out of the B&B. We stayed three nights with Evelyn but when she heard about the Clifton Coastal Run she only charged us for two nights. Therefore, we donated the price of one night’s accommodation to Clifton School. Thank you Evelyn and thank you to her friend, Ciaran Moran who also donated.

With Evelyn outside B&B in Bangor Erris

 We’re sad to be leaving this beautiful Erris area where we’ve been, on and off, since June. Just outside Bangor, we stop at a monument called The Crying Stone. This commemorates families that would have parted at this particular spot. Families would bid farewell to children emigrating or perhaps a wife would be seeing off her husband going over to Scotland, potato picking. 

 

At the Crying Stone in Bangor Erris

Laherdaun (Leath Ardan - meaning half the hill)

And we’re still reluctant to leave this beautiful area! Driving back to Ballina we take a right turn at Crossmolina and after about 9km we arrive in Laherdaun. There’s so much history and interest in this one small village. As you drive towards Laherdaun the first thing you’ll notice is towering Nephin which is the highest stand-alone mountain in Ireland. It’s over 800 metres high. We didn’t really intend to go all the way to the top, but as it was such a dry day we kept climbing. Brian had so much energy and had no issues in going all the way to the summit. We met a young couple Natasha and Peter and enjoyed their company over the final stages to the top.

Brian with Natasha & Peter on top of Nephin

Brian with his well-deserved certificate for climbing Nephin 

Brian was first to the top and we enjoyed the perfect views looking down on Lough Conn and the lovely valleys and hills below. Looking west and north we can even see across to the Atlantic coastline. We’re really in the middle (and on top) of Co. Mayo. However, coming down the mountain was not so easy. Trying to slowly manoeuvre through big rocks made it quite tricky and dangerous in parts. Brian was both cautious and nervous, but we took our time. I was so proud of him and he deserved his officially signed certificate that he received from Barretts shop in the village.

Laherdaun has a sad history as fourteen young emigrants from the parish boarded the famous Titantic at Cobh in Co. Cork. Only three survived the ill-fated journey. In the local church, every year on April 15 at 2.20am, eleven sombre tones ring out for those who died and three thundering strikes for the three women who survived. There is a beautiful memorial garden in the village with details about all these young people who boarded the Titanic.

Remembering Laherdaun eleven lost on Titanic

In 1798 General Humbert’s forces passed through Laherdaun on their way to Castlebar. (I referred to Humbert in more detail in Stage 47). The small band of French forces deceived the British by taking this back road from Ballina through Laherdaun to Castlebar. On leaving Ballina, Humbert and his men made lots of commotion and noise as they pretended to take the main road to Ballina, but then they doubled back in silence and took the quieter road west of Lough Conn. Humbert's small army of men arrived in Laherdaun at midnight and were lucky to have the help of a local priest, Father Andrew Conroy. Fr. Conroy had spent time at a seminary in Nantes and so had a good knowledge of French and was able to provide them with food and give important directions to Castlebar. Humbert and his men, although outnumbered by three to one, won a famous battle in Castlebar. However, later Father Conroy was arrested, tried and executed by the British.

 So we leave Laherdaun and the majestic Nephin Mountain. I remember years ago seeing a play called 'The Country Boy’ set in this area. It’s the only play written by the late John Murphy and he is buried on the slopes of Nephin. The play itself is about emigration and how people cope with living away from home. In the play one of the characters isn’t handling his new situation in New York very well and describes his feelings as he pines for Co. Mayo. "Country boys are looking for something that's no longer there. When you're down on your luck and not a dime in your pocket, you can get a great view of the sun shining on the face of Nephin from Times Square." 

Stages 55-56: Belmullet to Bangor Erris

                Stage 55

            Co. Mayo: Belmullet to Gaoth Saile

                    Saturday 14 Aug. 2021

                    41km or 25.5miles

‘’Isn't there the light of seven heavens in your heart alone, the way you'll be an angel's lamp to me from this out, and I abroad in the darkness, spearing salmons in the Owen, or the Carrowmore” John Millington Synge from ‘Playboy of the Western World’

It’s so nice to return to this part of Mayo. I think Maureen, Brian and I fell in love with the Mullet Peninsula in July. This time we are staying at Kemar House, just west of Belmullet town. Our host, another Maureen, is looking after us and leaves out some weetabix, milk and fruit for my early start. As I step outside the door at 6.20am I’m just in time to witness the most a beautiful sunrise which gives me a spring in my step as I run towards Belmullet. The town is very quiet at this time of the morning but during the day it can be a busy place. It is without doubt the capital of Erris.

Sunrise over Erris as I start my run

Belmullet Town (Beal an Mhuirthead)

In 1822 William Henry Carter inherited many acres of land in north west Mayo and built this new town on the edge of the Mullet peninsula. The new town impressed, Alexander Nimmo, a famous engineer who built harbours and piers all over Ireland and he wrote as follows:

 "At Belmullet, the advance is quite surprising; the place only commenced four years ago; it now consists of about seventy respectable houses’’ 

In the 1830s, another visitor described Belmullet as "the youngest town in Ireland and like all young things it is comparatively fresh and fair’’.

However, seventy years later Belmullet seemed to have let itself go. The famous written, John Millington Synge, visited Belmullet in 1904, and reported: 

‘’Belmullet in the evening is noisy and squalid, lonely and crowded at the same time and without appeal to the imagination’’

Of course, in those seventy years Ireland suffered its biggest natural disaster with the famine in the 1840’s. At one stage at the height of the Famine, 3,000 people were recorded as being in the local workhouse.

After leaving Belmullet I stick to the Shore Road and run pass the outdoor Tidal Pool. We’ve noticed on previous visits how popular this unique swimming area is with all the young people. Just after the tidal pool I take a left turn onto Cois Fhairraige which brings me up onto Church Road and I leave the Mullet peninsula by this quieter coastal road. I’m heading for Claggan Island across the bay and maybe there is an option for taking a short cut along the sand. However low tide was already at 4.30am so I stick by the country road. In any case it is well signposted to Claggan Island (Oilean Chloigeann). Even at high tide it would be still possible to cross over to the island as there is a tombola (a long bar of sand) from the mainland. 

Sign pointing down to Claggan Island and Srah Beach

View of Claggan Island

 Claggan Island

Claggan was only declared an island in 1991. In January of that year there was a ‘wind-storm’ from the North Atlantic that cut off the island from the mainland for days. More recently the old Coastguard Station has been renovated by the Howard family. They converted it into self-catering accommodation and glamping pods. I was delighted to meet father and son, both called Laurence Howard, who had a very warm welcome for me. Their family have farmed on the island for four generations. An even younger generation is coming along to keep the tradition going!

With Laurence Junior and Senior on Claggan Island

With Laurence Senior

I had heard about a sculpture on the island that commemorated the unbaptised who were buried on the island. Both men took me to see it. These burial sites are called cillíns and in a field on Claggan Island there is a mound of earth where those that were ‘declared unworthy’ were buried. A sculpture by the artist, Marian O'Donnell's consists of two curved stone walls facing each other but separated from each other by a narrow passageway. 

Cillin Sculpture showing passage between two curved walls

I was privileged to be able to walk between the two stone walls which symbolises that you are embracing, protecting, and acknowledging those buried in the cillín. I came across a similar island in Donegal, called Oilean na Marbh (Island of dead) where hundreds of babies were buried. (See stage 28 in the Ulster Coastal Run book). Here in Claggan Island there is a poignant inscription by the poet Derek Mahon

‘’They are begging us to see in their wordless way, to do something, to speak on their behalf. Or at least not to close the door again’’

I could have chatted to the two Laurence’s all day. They were so modest but so proud to show me around. I appreciated a good pint of water too, to quench my thirst, as I knew I still had a long way to go today. Yes Claggan Island is a beautiful place and it was such a lovely encounter with these two gentlemen.

Claggan Islanders, Jack, Jill and Riley

Keeping the sea on my right, as always, I left the island and ran along the strand on the other side (Srah beach) of the tombola. Taking young Laurence’s advice, I left the beach after about 2km and run through the sand dunes until I spotted a soccer pitch. I was then able to get back on the country road again.

I stayed on this road towards Gaoth Saile for another couple of miles and then took a right turn, clearly signposted Dumha Locha. I followed this road almost (but not quite) to the end and finally taking a left turn which brought me back down to Doolough (Dumha Locha) strand. This beach is famous for the annual horse racing (and greyhound racing) which takes places every year on the beach. In fact, this is the weekend that the event should have been taking place. Unfortunately, due to Covid, it is cancelled again. When I arrived on the beach it was getting close to high tide but there was still enough sand for me to run on. I was struggling at this stage and slightly envious of the horses and greyhounds with four (rather than two) long legs to gallop on the strand. 

With Mervyn at Doolough strand

On the beach I met a man called Mervyn who had just been in for swim. He advised me, not to run too far along the beach, but to follow a track inland that would lead to a road. To my detriment I ignored his good advice and ran too far along the beach. I realised my mistake when I left the beach and started running through a maze of sand dunes. My Strava record of today’s run literally shows me running around in circles in those dunes!

Eventually (that one word ‘eventually’ that covers a lot of time and frustration!) I was able to spot in the distance one or two houses. I crossed a fence, ran along a farmer’s track and make my way up to a country road. I was now only about 4k from Gaoth Saile. 

Arriving just before the rain at Gaoth Saile

On a positive note, it was such a lovely dry morning and perfect for running. I was lucky that I only felt the first few rain drops as I arrived in the village of Gaoth Saile. Maureen and Brian met me there and I enjoyed a nice vegetarian breakfast in the community centre. We sat drinking our coffee and watched the rain fall outside. It didn’t stop for the rest of the day.               

 

                Stage 56

            Co. Mayo: Gaoth Saile to Bangor Erris

                Sunday 15 August 2021

                     34km or 21miles

 

Today was my earliest start to any of my coastal runs. I’m out of bed at 5.00am, sneaking out of the room and trying not to wake Maureen and Brian. I had a quick breakfast (weetabix and fruit again) at the B&B, drove the 18km to Gaoth Saile and started my run just as dawn was breaking at 5.54am. Yes this was a mad idea that I had thought about a few days ago. I had realised that the first 20km of my run today would take me on a complete loop around the Doohoma peninsula. So I figured I could get up early, drive to Gaoth Saile and park my car there, run around the peninsula, come back to my car, and then drive back to the B&B in Belmullet. My plan worked out so well that I was in plenty of in time for my cooked breakfast (scrambled egg) at 9.00am. Evelyn at the B&B confirmed that I was the only person ever have two breakfasts in Kemar Guesthouse!

Everyone is smiling this morning and talking about Mayo’s great win in the All-Ireland semi-final last night which ended Dublin’s seven-in-a-row attempt to keep the Sam Maguire cup. The Saw Doctors ‘Green and Red of Mayo’ has been playing on Mid-West Radio and there’s a lovely atmosphere all over Erris.

Brian at Mayo car just before great win over Dublin

 Gaoth Saile (Geesale)

It’s very quiet here at 5.50am as I get out of my car in Gaoth Saile. I think that even at 5.50 in the afternoon things would not be much difference in this remote village. The writer John Millington Synge has connections to this area. ‘The Playboy of the Western World’ was inspired by a "shebeen" in Gaoth Saile, which Synge described as "very rough and untidy". To further emphasise the wild-west image in the village there’s a pub here called ‘The High Chaparral’ (after 1960’s TV series) which caught me by surprise. Nobody under sixty could possibly remember this show!

I’m tackling this Doohoma peninsula today which has a similar shape to the Iberian Peninsula. I knew low tide was at 5.42am so I headed down to the nearby shore and plan to run along the sand. This is not such a good plan as the sand near Gaoth Saile is very marshy and impossible to run (or walk) on. However, I have the alternative of a quiet country road heading west. After about 5k I come to a small crossroads and take a left signposted Radharc na Mara. About halfway down the peninsula I’m able to take a right turn that brings me down to Doohoma (Dumha Thuama) beach. Over 5,000 years ago this whole area was covered by a great forest of oak, yew and pine and there is still evidence on the shore of tree trucks and stumps.

View of Slievemore, Achill from Doohoma Beach

It’s just 7.00am now as I reach this secluded beach. I’m probably lucky that it is low tide as I run along the sand. There’s something special about this area and now I’ve so close to Achill Island. Towering Slievemore is facing me across the bay, almost winking at me and saying ‘see you next month’. Yes its going to tough running around the hills and cliffs in Achill. I’m not sure if I’m looking forward to it.

Translated it says ''He who travels has stories to tell''

I pass a small monument dedicated to Seamus Mag Uidhir (Jim Paddy) who was from Doohoma and travelled all over Mayo on his bicycle in the1930s. I like the inscription on the stone that overlooks the beach. Yes the more you travel the more stories you'll here.

Doohoma Cemetery

Like most of Connacht, this area suffered so much because of the Famine. For years there was no proper cemetery here, so burials took place on the sand dunes. Calls for a proper graveyard were rejected by civil authorities so in 1926 a cemetery was built by voluntary work. Three hundred local men built a sod-wall around the two-acre site. Eventually Mayo Co. Council erected a stone wall around the cemetery and then in 1967 over 100 volunteers built a road from Doohoma village to the graveyard. I'd have to say though, that it is a little disappointing, that there is nothing (that I could see) at the cemetery, explaining this sad but inspiring history.    

At Doohoma Head, SW corner of Doohoma Peninsula

I carry on running south to the very bottom corner of the peninsula and pause again at Doohoma Head (An Ceann Ramhar). There were so many potato pickers from this area who went to Scotland each summer that ships picked them up here at Doohoma Head. As I run along the south-eastern tip of the peninsula I can see across to Ballycroy. At one time a ferry went from Tallaghan Bawn here across the bay. 

There’s a warm breeze following me all day as I loop around the peninsula, and I can’t help thinking of the direct translation of Gaoth Saile which is ‘salty wind’. It’s still only 8.10am when I arrive back in Gaoth Saile after my 22km circle of the peninsula. I still have plenty of time to get back to Belmullet for my second breakfast.

Looking back towards Gaoth Saile and Achill

Back in Belmullet, we take our time. We check out of the B&B and Maureen drives me back to Gaoth Saile to complete today's run. Now it should be a simple 12km run along the west bank of the Owenmore River or the big river (An Abhainn Mor) to Bangor Erris. You could argue that Bangor Erris isn’t really by the coast and perhaps I could have crossed the river earlier. However, I don't think there was any other option. 

Celebrating Mayo's win and my arrival in Bangor Erris

My legs are tired now as I tackle this winding road. What’s keeping me going is knowing that I’m soon to reach another milestone on this adventure. So, at 12.20pm I finally reach Bangor Erris. 

Arrived in Bangor, Co. Mayo.

Now I can say that I’ve run all the way from Bangor, Co. Down to Bangor, Co. Mayo. My journey has been along  the beautiful scenic route and that’s why it’s taken me four years to get here! I calculate that when I left Bangor in Co. Down back in September 2017, I had already run 330k of the coastal run. Therefore, I make the Bangor-to-Bangor coastal section 1,848km.