Stage 12 (the bits I missed): Fair Head, Co. Antrim: Murlough Bay to Ballycastle: Sat. 13 June 2020

Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and ONCE a month since Feb 2017.

 ‘’Take my body back with you and let it lie in the old churchyard in Murlough Bay’’ (Roger Casements last wish before he was executed)

 Yes another bit I missed when I did Stage 12 back in January 2018.

All to ourselves - enjoying the 'Dark Hedges'

It turned out to be another beautiful day! We left Bangor, Co. Down at about 10.30am and drove to north Antrim. Maureen, our sons (Matthew and Brian) and I decided to stop off in Armoy (about 10k south of Ballycastle) at the ‘Dark Hedges’ made famous by the drama ‘Game of Thrones’. It was our first time here and we were privileged to be the only visitors today at the hanging trees.

Leaving the 'Dark Hedges'

Afterwards we drove on to nearby Ballycastle and then to that exact spot on the road from Tor Head where its signposted to Murlough Bay. Remember back in Jan 2018, we (Helen, Sean, Helena & me) made the decision not to risk this route because of the ice and snow! So, Maureen and the boys let me off at that junction to continue Stage 12 on my own again. 

Back at starting point

And this was at the same spot in January 2018

From there I ran all the way down the steep, narrow winding road to Murlough Bay, passing a big Cross as the lovely blue Sea of Moyle opened up in front of me. The Cross and nearby plaque was dedicated to Roger Casement.

Caseman's Cross overlooking Sea Of Moyle

Sir Roger Casement

There is a lot of discussion now about pulling down statues of slave traders’, but Casement actually fought against human rights abuses in the Congo and Peru and campaigned for the anti-slavery society. He was knighted in 1911 for his work against these atrocities. Later he became an anti-imperialist and joined the Irish Rebels. During the 1916 rebellion he tried to import arms from Germany and was dropped off in a U boat (U19) in Co. Kerry where he was captured and then hanged for high treason. Diaries indicating his homosexually were also used against him in his trial.

These words were next to the big cross.

Roger was born in Dublin but lived for quite a few years in Co. Antrim. After his hanging in 1916, he was buried in Pentonville Prison in London. His remains were eventually released by the British Government in 1965, only on condition that they could not be brought into Northern Ireland. He had a State funeral in Dublin and was buried in Glasnevin Cemetery. He never really got his dying wish ‘‘take my body back and let it lie in the old churchyard in Murlough Bay’’.

At the bottom of the hill at Murlough Bay I ran as far as the coastal path would take me (keeping the sea on my left for a change) and then turned around to face the steep climb back up again.

I'm glad I had this banana - there was tough work ahead!

Murlough Bay, Co. Antrim

Murlough Bay -as far as you can go!

 I passed the Casement Cross again and then took the first right along a track. After passing through an open gate, I took an immediate right which brought me up onto a grassy cliff-top trail called ‘Grey Man’s Path’ (well named for the man climbing it today!)

Grey Man's Path

The weather is perfect now, no sign of any rain or wind with the sun shining through. Shortly I come to the very top of Fair Head (or Benmore). I’m also only about 20km from the Scottish mainland (Mull of Kintyre) which I can easily see now to the east. 

Mull of Kintyre - only 20k away!

These steep cliffs are now very popular with rock climbers. I see two small rucksacks with a rope tied around a big boulder and the rope dropping down the vertical cliff. I’m too scared to go too close to check if I can see the climbers! 

See rope tied to boulders with rucksacks

 These ‘climbing cliffs’ have been given their own names by the rock climbers. From east to west there's the ‘small crag’, ‘main crag’, ‘farangandoo’ and ‘marconi’s cove’ which was only discovered in 1988. I dont think I've ever seen cliffs with such a vertical drop!

Probably the most vertical cliffs in Ireland!

As I circle around Fair Head, I meet a family from Lithuania out for a walk in the warm sunshine. 

Lithuania family with Rathlin only 4k behind.

It’s only about 4km across to Rathlin Island now and it was on the Island that Robert the Bruce was inspired by a struggling spider to have the ‘’tenacity to keep trying till it succeeds’’ (I’ll heed this advice later!). Further north of Rathlin, I can even see the Scottish islands of Islay and Jura. 

It’s no surprise either that Game of Thrones was filmed here and in fact in Season 7, this was the spot (here in Fair Head) where Jon Snow finally gets to meet Daenerys Targaryen (probably the two most famous characters in GOT). 

Natural bridge!

I can see Lough Crannagh, in the distance to my left, with its ‘crannog’ in the middle.

Lough Crannagh with 'cranog' in the middle

I remember from school that a ‘crannog’ is usually an artificial island built in the middle of a lake for refuge and protection from enemies. As I continue around Fair Head, I see another smaller lake to the left of me called Lough Doo (or Dhu), the black lough.

So up to now everything is going well on this beautiful day! However, it looks like ‘grey man’s path’ has come to end and so I run further inland hoping to pick up the trail again. I come to a country road and to the entrance to a farm but there’s a ‘Private Property’ notice here.

I climb over a style on the other side of the road and try to follow a path, but it doesn’t seem to lead to anywhere! I decide to backtrack to the coast again, climbing over a fence and eventually making it down to the shore. I think I see Marconi’s Cottage in the distance. I figure I will have a nice run along the coast and soon I’ll be in Ballycastle…but it’s never that easy! The lower coastal path abruptly comes to an end and so I have no alternative but to leave the coast, climb up a huge hill to try to find another trail.

Looking back at Fair Head

Maybe I came too far inland as I end up having to run through a few fields and eventually (that word ‘eventually’ that never really explains how much I suffered!) I get back onto a narrow coastal cliff-path. Now I can see Marconi’s cottage very clearly down on the shore.

 Marconi’s Cottage

This is where Marconi’s employees made the first ever wireless telegraph transmission in the world. It was between here and Rue Point on Rathlin (just about 5k away). Marconi himself, the famous Italian inventor, only spent 4 days in this area, conveniently enough for him, to coincide with the annual Lammas Fair in Ballycastle!

Marconi's Cottage at last!

I thought I could stay on this cliff path all the way to Ballycastle but that also came to an abrupt end so I struggle down the hill through high grass and tree ferns to finally get to Marconi’s Cottage. I think if I was doing this run again it might be easier starting in Ballycastle at Marconi’s Cottage (there seems to be a path from the house) and doing this stretch to Fair Head with the sea on my left.

Ferry heading out to Rathlin Island

Anyway, I’m glad to be down on the shore again and now I have a nice straight run in along the coast road. I soon get down onto the beach at Ballycastle, run along the strand and Maureen and the boys are there to meet me at the point where the Glenshesk river flows into the sea……..the adventure continues!

Me arriving on Ballycastle Beach - picture taken by my son Matthew

 Total distance today was 17.3km, but I adjusted it down to 10.3km as I had already covered 7k of this stage back in January 2018.      

Total distance to date: 1,804 km (1,121 miles)

   Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308