Stage 28: Bunbeg to Dungloe (via Kincaslough & Cruit Island): Sat 30 March 2019 (58k or 36miles)

Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and once a month since Feb 2017.

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but just to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move. Robert Louis Stevenson (see blog later re RLS)

Dawn is already breaking as I leave Bangor at 6.00am. A couple of hours later I drive through Letterkenny and enter rural Donegal. It’s a dull morning but so uplifting to see those beautiful hills again. I cross over the mountain road - these hills/mountains are called the Seven Sisters and are dominated, of course, by big sister Errigal.

When I finally arrive in Gweedore I leave my car at the big Healthwise Chemist in Bunbeg and take to the road once again.

I run along the quiet country road in the direction of Dungloe (or ‘An Clochan Liath’ in Irish) and then take a right turn towards Annagry and Donegal Airport. I pass through the busy village of Annagry and smile to myself when I saw the Irish version Anagaire (‘gaire’ is Irish for laughing – ironically, the complete opposite to angry!)

I continue running north up the peninsula following the airport symbol. Amazing to see an airport in this picturesque location. There’s a small Gaelic pitch just outside the terminal building and there’s a Saturday morning under 10 training session going on!

Donegal Airport: No surprise that the airport has just been voted the world's most scenic airport for the second year running in a survey by PrivateFly. I should mention too that Donegal was voted the coolest place in the world to visit in 2017 by National Geographic Traveller. Also, the weather is slowly improving so I think I’m in a good place this morning!

I pass the airport and run to the top of the Carrickfin peninsula and I clearly see the islands of Inishinny (island of the fox) and Gola (pronounced Gowla- read about it below). PS: As regards Inishinny, about a year after this I tried to reach that island at low tide but there was a strong channel of water in the way which didn't look passable at all. 

Inishinny Island and Gola behind.

Gabhla/Gola Island, Spanish Armada and Robert Louise Stevenson:

I think most people who learned Irish would be very familiar with the song

‘Baidin Fheidhimi (d’imigh go Gabhla). It’s about a fatal drowning of a man called Felim and the song was written by Felim’s brother. I also read that the famous writer Robert Louise Stevenson stayed in Bunbeg, was captivated by Gola, the tales of the Spanish Armada and the wreck, La Juliana, which crashed on the island of Gola. Apparently RLS was so inspired by these stories that he wrote Treasure Island. His book could have been called Gold Island or Gola Island!

I cross over to the north-west side of the Carrickfin peninsula, making sure to keep the sea on my right! However, there’s no road or even track on this side. Eventually I come over a headland to see a beautiful long beach ahead – its Carrickfin strand. 

Really glad to see Carrickfin beach!

Carrickfin beach - you could land a plane here too!

Amazing to have such a lovely (blue flag) beach just beside the airport!

 I can clearly see Inisfree Island Lower across the sea.

Inisfree Island Lower

Later in the day I’ll pass Inisfree Upper, near Burtonport. (I should point out that neither of these islands is the Inishfree immortalised by WB Yeats or by John Ford! Yeat’s ‘Lake Island of Inishfree’ is in Sligo and the Quiet Man’s Inishfree is supposed to represent the island of Ireland.)    

After leaving Carrickfin beach I continue along rough grassy headlands. It’s sometimes muddy now and I struggle as I climb over a few barbed wire fences. After a while I come to a monument near Ballymanus to commemorate 19 young men who lost their lives when a sea mine exploded in 1943. Also at nearby Mullaghderg beach down on the shore there's a plaque to commemorate four young female students who were drown in 1972.

Ballymanus monument with Errigal behind

These 4 young girls were drown here at Mullaghderg beach

 I slowly make my way up a sandy path which leads me eventually to the village of Kincaslough.

At Kincaslough

I’m so glad to have a break (and a drink) here at the Post Office/Shop. Kincaslough, of course, is well known because it’s the home of the country singer, Daniel O’Donnell. Back in the 1980s my wife, Maureen was in college in Galway with the famous singer. Maureen said that Daniel told her fellow students that he was dropping out of college because he wanted ‘to make it big in country music’. And in fairness to him, he did!

Kincaslough PO

Cruit Island: About a mile after Kincaslough, I take a right turn that brings me onto Cruit Island. 

Bridge to Cruit Island

This time I decide to stick to the country road and I follow the windy, hilly road all the way to the Golf Course at the top of the island. I pause briefly at the most northerly spot, looking across at Owey Island. (Owey means ‘caves’ and apparently there are underground caves and taverns on that island). 

Owey Island in the distance

I retrace my steps and run back down Cruit Island. I pass a memorials dedicated to Darren Mills and I heard that there is a 5k Memorial Run/Walk on the island every year, which is a nice way to remember him.

In memory of Darren Mills

The view from Memorial - Errigal.

I’m definitely tiring now and I’m beginning to wonder if I was too ambitious trying to reach Dungloe (An Clochan Liath) today. Just before I get to Keadue Strand I see a sign saying only 7k to Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain) and I’m very tempted to continue on the main road.

 However, I had to remind myself that this is a Coastal Run and so after I pass Keadue and the Soccer pitch (Packy Bonner’s old club!) and after the main road winds around to the left, I decide to take the second right down towards the sea. I knew there was a nice beach in this direction and after roughing it along the coast for a while; I eventually came to a coastal path. 

Somewhere in Cruit Island

I like when the farmers make it easier to climb over

Cloch Ghlas - with Errigal again!

Soon I arrive at another one of Donegal’s hidden gems - another goldenl beach, called Cloch Ghlas. There’s even a blue sky now and Errigal is still clearly visible – the ‘wee’ peak has been my constant companion today!  

Signs to Dungloe (An Clochan Liath) and Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain)

I run along the beach to the end and follow a sandy path that eventually leads to a trail and then a narrow road. Yes, I’m glad I took the coastal route to Burtonport – even though I’m struggling now to keep my body moving!

I decide to have a break in Burtonport. I’ve already completed 32 miles today and I’m getting hungry and thirsty (I’ve finished my yorkie bar back on Cruit Island and I haven’t had a drink since Kincaslough)  

At Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain) the ferry from Aranmore is just arriving. I can even see the cottages on Rutland Island across the bay. In fact this area played a very significant part in the 1798 Revolution. Back then Rutland Island with its thriving herring industry was the main commercial centre of the whole North West.

Ferry from Aranmore with Rutland Island in the background

Rutland Island and Napper Tandy : In 1798 Napper Tandy took possession of the Post Office in Rutland island, hoisted an Irish Flag and issued a proclamation (maybe the 1916 leaders were following in his footsteps taking over the GPO!) Tandy was later tried for treason and sentenced to death but unlike Wolf Tone his life was spared. Napper Tandy was inspired by the French Revolution in 1789 and even had a connection and friendship with Napoleon. Apparently, Napoleon intervened on his behalf and is even said to have made Tandy's release a condition of signing the Treaty of Amiens, an agreement signed by Britain, France, Spain and the Netherlands.

I call into the only pub in Burtonport and have a nice glass of Cidona (cider without the alcohol!) before continuing. It’s tough-going over the last few miles but I’m quietly satisfied to eventually arrive in An Clochan Liath/Dungloe (capital of The Rosses).

At last - the end of Stage 28!

It’s been a tough one today and I’m hungry. I call into the first restaurant I see (Doherty’s) and order a Sheppard’s Pie and catch a taxi back to Bunbeg (capital of Gweedore). It seems a long long time since I was there this morning!

 Stages 28 A bit I missed - OILEAN NA MARBH (the island of the dead), Carrickfin Peninsula

Saturday 5 December 2020

I returned to Carrickfin and I went back with Maureen and Brian on a cold and showery December afternoon. 

Maureen and Brian on Tra a Bhaid, Carrickfin Peninsula

Although I had passed very close to this island back in March 2019 (when I did my original run) I didn’t realise the significance of this place and in any case you needed a low tide to access this small island. The name of the island in itself indicates a sad tale and after I read about the history behind the name of the island, the story became even more heart breaking. This wee island was used as a type of graveyard for still born babies or those babies that died before they could be baptised. It is estimated that about 500 babies were buried here on the island even up to the beginning of the 20^th century. It was then a cruel society, led by the strict rules of the Catholic Church, maintaining that the unbaptised could not be buried in consecrated grounds.

View of Oilean na Marbh from Tra a Bhaid Pier

With Maureen and Brian on this winter’s day, we drove passed Donegal airport and took a left turn signposted to Tra a Bhaid (the Boat Strand). We parked on the cliff just before the pier and across the water we could already see the Cross on the island. At low tide it was easy enough to walk across the strand but then there were some wet rocks to get through to reach the island. It was a steep and slippy climb up onto the island itself and I couldn’t help thinking that this was not a nice journey for any parent to have to take.

Cross and Plaque on Oilean na Marbh

These separate burial grounds were common all over Ireland, usually in allocated spaces just outside graveyards or churches and became known as cillineachs. I remember once hearing about my own father’s siblings. He was born in 1921, the youngest of fourteen children but five of his older brothers died either stillborn or just as babies. I have a vague recollection that they were buried in a separate area and perhaps also denied a proper burial. I’m old enough too to remember learning about the unbaptised and that horrible place called Limbo where ‘those souls who, though not condemned to punishment, are deprived of the joy of heaven’’. This was really the Catholic teaching that encouraged this kind of warped morality. 

Maureen and Brian leaving the island

However I’m now glad to report that now, in the modern era, the dead on Oilean na Marbh will never be forgotten. A local man, Seamus Boyle started a campaign this century and now there is a plaque and a memorial cross to honour (and always remember) those special souls. 

If you’d like to Donate to Clifton Special School, please see below.

https://mydonate.bt.com/events/cliftoncoastalrun/381290

Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308

Stage 27: Falcarragh to Bunbeg (via bloody foreland) : Sat 9 March 2019 (40.7k or 25.4miles)
Running around Ireland - strictly by the coast - and once a month since Feb 2017.

 

''I mind the waiting valleys that light up the dawn of day and I mind the dawn light creeping on the rugged crests of grey'' (The Hills of Donegal)







It’s a wet (and cold) morning as I leave Bangor at 6.10am. I’m on my own today but I was confident it was going to be a straightforward run with a nice coastal path for most of the way. Driving through Belfast there’s already light snow coming down which continues all the way across the border. 

Buying my new Clifton Hokas at Pure Running

When I get onto the hills of Donegal, the mountain road across by Errigal is just about driveable, but it does mean I arrive later in Bunbeg than planned. 

Errigal: Donegal's highest peak.

I get a taxi from Bunbeg to Falcarragh and arrive at the GAA Club just as the Falcarragh parkrun is finishing. I had not planned to do the parkrun in any case, but get chatting to a man called Eddie McFadden and I avail of a nice mug of tea (well a large paper cup of tea!) and some banana bread before I start today’s adventure from Falcarragh.

With Eddie McFadden at Falcarragh parkrun

The name Falcarragh (literally ‘the Wall Stone’) has been used since 1850, as it was believed that the 'Na Crois Bhealaí', the Cross Roads, was already too common in Ireland. Having said that, the crossroads in Falcarragh is still the most obvious landmark in the town and so when I left the GAA club/parkrun, I run to the Crossroads and head west in the direction of Gortahork. 

After a few miles I arrived at the small village of Gortahork (or Gort an Choirce) where Johnny and I had stayed when we did Stage 26 back on 17 January. Since I was here last, there was a terrible fatal tragedy where four young men lost their lives in a car accident.

On and on for another few miles along the country road and I reach the Tory Island/Inishbofin Pier. Luckily for me I don’t have to run around the Dooey/Magheroarty peninsula as Johnny and I already completed that section over the very soft sand back in January.

View of Magheroarty peninsula

Muckish Mountain

It seems to be a beautiful day now and I’m beginning to feel overdressed in my hat, gloves and leggings. (later I’m really glad I wrapped up so much!) I stop here to take a picture of the beach at Magheroarty (plane of the spring tide) and I can clearly see snow-capped Muckish Mountain behind me in the distance.

I’m also now in training for my first marathon (the Connamarathon) on 14 April so I don’t mind getting the mileage up today. I’m still heading west and I pass Teach Coll (Colls Bar) where Johnny and I enjoyed a pint last time! 

Suddenly the weather has changed and the rain is coming down (this seemed to be the trend for the day, sunshine and showers!) Shortly I come to another ‘Crois Bhealai’ (crossroads) and I take a right (north) towards the sea, signposted as ‘Sli an Earagail’ and I follow this beautiful quiet coastal route all the way around the bloody foreland.

The Wild Atlantic!

The Bloody Foreland: (Cnoc Fola): I presumed this coastal section was called bloody foreland after some gruesome (and bloody!) battle or I thought, perhaps it might be something to do with The Spanish Armada, with boats crashing against the Atlantic cliffs but Bloody Foreland actually got its name from the evening (westerly) sun illuminating the rocks on the coast. I’m completely on my own along this quiet country road, the sun has come out again and I’ve  only the odd lonely cry of the curlew to keep me company. However, the further west I go the stronger the wild Atlantic wind becomes!

At that bloody foreland!

I follow the country road until I come to a sign to the right pointing towards ‘Bloody Foreland Viewing Point’. So I run down here about half a mile and then take a left turn to get closer to the coast. There’s a rough path here which disappears after a while and then I find myself running on a rough grassy headland. I soon join up with the trail/path again and for the next few miles I stick rigidly to the coast, passing two or three nice beaches that are hardly marked on the map

Inishsirrer & Inishmeane: Just across the sea I can see two islands, about a mile off the coast. There are also a couple of islands off the west coast of Galway called Inisheer and Inishmean, but unlike the Galway islands these Donegal islands are uninhabited. Innishsirrer was once a thriving fishing community but all that remains now is a "Ghost Town" with abandoned cottages and shops with apparently even furniture left behind after the last residents left. 

View of Inishsirrer island

As I’m standing on the windy beach admiring the two islands, I see a lady in the distance running on the strand followed by six or seven terriers. As I restart my run, the group of dogs come rushing towards me, nipping and barking. Meanwhile the lady keeps running alone in the distance, ignoring her wayward dogs and oblivious to my shouts for them to get away!

Eventually I get moving again and I keep running on the (now heavy and soft) sandy shore until I come to a narrow river/stream (Owencronahulia river) which is a bit too wide (and deep) to cross.

Owencronahulia river - too wide to cross

Definitely not 'Sand for the Feet of the Runner'

I hug the river as it winds inland and eventually I see a narrow spot and decide to take a running jump and cross the river. I’m soon up on the R257 again, just before the village of Derrybeg.       

Gweedore/Gaoth Dobhair: I’m now in the area called Gaoth Dobhair which stretches some 26 km north to south and around 14 km east to west and is one of Europe's most densely populated rural areas. It is the largest Irish-speaking parish in Ireland with a population of over 4,000. After the Plantation of Ulster Irish-speaking families were driven from their fertile lands in the Lagan Valley and made their way to the poor boglands of west Donegal. Some of them made it as far as Gweedore and could go no further west.

Bad Eddie(Eddie's boat) on Bunbeg Beach

I run on towards Derrybeg, climbing the hill at the top of the village and then taking a right down towards the Golf course. It’s a long run down to the shore but eventually I arrive at a nice secluded beach. I follow the coast on another grassy headland all the way to Maherclogher beach (Bunbeg) which opens out in front of me. 

Errigal peeping over horizon at Bunbeg

Finally, as I reach my destination at the end of the strand, I come across a wreck of a boat (baid Eddie, it’s called). Behind it I can see Mount Errigal, Donegal’s highest peak, peeping over the horizon. It’s the perfect picture to end today’s adventure.  

      Total distance to date: 1,169 (730.5miles)  

Next Stage: Bunbeg to Kincasslagh (or maybe Dungloe): Sat 30 March 2019

 

If you’d like to Donate to Clifton Special School, please see below.

https://mydonate.bt.com/events/cliftoncoastalrun/381290

Contact Gerry on gerryoboyle@outlook.com or 00 44 (0) 7725613308

Coasting around Ireland.

It seems like there are quite a few people running (or walking) around Ireland. Of course Bangor’s own Terry Eakin aka Herbie Herb started it all in 2013. Although I remember Terry telling me about a man who ran/walked around Ireland years ago and when he died, his ashes were spread on the north Antrim coast. In early 2018 Mary Hickey did her ‘Lap the Map’ of Ireland in aid of the RNLI. I ran with Mary from Donaghadee to Belfast in January and met her again in February when she had already reached Galway. Another lady, Karen Penny (‘The Penny Rolls On’) who has recently started her walk (around Ireland and Britain!) from Wexford and is in west Kerry as I write. I hope to bump into her along the coast sometime later this year.

With fellow coastal runners, Rachel and Simon.

Back in August (2018) Rachel Winter and Simon Clark starting their own adventure in Dublin and like Karen Penny, they bucked the trend by running clockwise. This pair (‘Two Hearts Four Feet’) have now covered most of Ireland, are raising funds for Ecologia Youth Trust and have at present completed over 2,000 miles. Simon and Rachel arrived in Bangor the day after my coastal run (10 March) and stayed with me for one night before heading south towards Dublin again. Simon and Rachel say they also met Marty Holland (Coast For Cancer) near Limerick who walked the coast (3500km-4000km) in 2016/2017 and also young Alex Ellis-Roswell who walked Britain and Ireland for the RNLI in 2014-17. Everyone of these coastal runners (or walkers) has their own unique story to tell.